Danno74Z

Thank you for all the nice compliments! JustAFantaZ No the stock gauge will not work with the sender I'm using. I have and will use Autometer 5417 (to match my other gauges) 240Ohms Empty, 33Ohms Full. I suspect you can get a sender that is close to what is needed for the stock gauge and use the proper resistor as others have done. rags The top of the tank is 5" above the existing floor but more importantly below the filler. Before I welded up the neck, I took whole setup to a gas station to see how far down the pump feed would go and I am above the top of the tank. I will get a full load of gas but after the tank becomes 3/4 full I suspect I will have to put the gas feed on the first click of the handle because of surge. I can live with that The new tank capacity is 19 gallons I tried to figure the 300ZX ohm range and I got some VERY strange readings so no I don't know. I will try again for you. That is exactly what I'm trying to do - Center Exhaust. Over the next few weeks I will mock up an exhaust system to see if there is enough room back there to mimic the corvette system. I made this to start that process. The dimensions are exactly the same as the real muffler but cost me $7 in parts and some time. I have two built and will use 2" PVC pipe (which is close to 2.5" exhaust) to route the center exhaust. I'm nowhere near putting a rear exhaust system in but I'm very curious now that the real tank is in place to mock up the exhaust. I won't cut the rear valance just yet! I know the 280Z's have a raised floor in the hatch area but I have never seen one. My car is an early 260Z which does not have that raised panel. I can't help you there. This is a fake mufffler

I know you are looking at alternative fuel tanks. Below is a link to my tank. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/105275-fuel-tank-conversion-ls1/ Danno74Z

After looking and studying what other Members have done with the FI LS1 tank, I decided to go this route with my build. The one main objective was to hide the tank from view from the rear of the car. I can’t stand seeing a gas tank hanging down below the valance. To me it looks like a Jeep – but that is just me. The other objective was to open up some options for the muffler/s. I plan to run dual exhausts and I need some room for that. With this setup I can definitely run mufflers on either side of car or put one muffler under the tank (with the proper shielding) or run and exhaust system used on a Corvette. But I’m getting ahead of myself with that system as that is really tight. I used a 1987 300ZX fuel tank. I purchased the tank from a wrecking yard and got the tank, straps and fuel filler neck and piping. I removed the existing 260 tank, filler neck and associated hoses. After studying all the possible locations and my goals I needed to raise the tank as far up as possible into the car. This might sound crazy to some but I went for it. I removed the existing spare wheel tub using a spot weld removal tool. Somebody may need a rust free tube and I just did not want to hack/cut it out – again that is me. I then went and cut a piece of 20 gauge sheet metal piece to fill the hole and welded it in. As everybody here has experienced the original Datsun sheet metal is very thin (probably why the cars are so light) and the under coating is a royal pain in the ass. I made the mistake on trying to weld on clean metal (topside) with undercoating still on the underside – CAN’T BE DONE. I blew right through the metal! It almost acted like I did not have shielding gas. To make a long story as short as possible I went to Harbor Freight and got one of those $19.95 multi-tools. I can’t take credit for this idea as I read about it online. This tool work great for bussing off the old hard and soft undercoating. It makes one hell of mess but not many alternatives. After removing as much of the undercoating with the machine I used some acetone with a rag to get the rest and was down to plain clean sheet metal on top and bottom to make nice clean welds. If I were to do this again, I would ditch the idea of filling in the hole left by the removal of the spare wheel well and just go with a clean piece of sheet metal from the left cross member to the right. That whole area back there (on the 260Z) is boxed in and would be much easier to deal with using clean and smooth new metal. The existing metal has many undulations stamped into it and it is difficult work with and is thin. After I installed the tank and raised it as far as I could inside the car I did some experiments to make sure I could still get a full load of gas inside the tank. Trying to remember my HS physics (2 years after we landed on the moon) and fluid levels I got a coffee can made a little fuel tank and used water not gasoline. The tank opening is in the middle of the tank not at the top like most tanks. But my little experiment worked and I’m satisfied that I will get a full load of gas in the tank when I it fill up. The tank is enclosed within a steel cage firewall for safety. The cage is removable from inside the car as a unit or if I need to access just the sender or pump I have access panels for that. The cage was a ton of work!! Not have sheet metal tools I fabricated the whole thing by hand. If I were to do this again I might get a quote from a fab shop that has benders and brakes and could whip up a cover. It would also be lighter. But I like doing this stuff and I really improved my welding skills The filler tube was a real challenge and I used a combination of 1-1/2†exhaust tubing and the 300ZX filler neck. I even used a little bit of the 260Z stuff. I have to modify the plastic panel just a little that covers the rear tail lights. No surprise there! Changing burned out bulbs will be more difficult but really how often does that need to be done? I will put all new bulbs in and be done. I also made the straps you see on top of the tank. Do I need them probably not but I’m a bit paranoid with gasoline and I don’t want that tank to move if I’m in an accident or God forbid a roll over. I can’t think of anything else and the pictures should fill in the blanks. If you have any questions fire (ask) away. Materials and parts used: Gas tanks support using 1â€x1†thick wall tubing Tank firewall cage material ½†x ½†steel tubing 1-1/2†aircraft exhaust tubing The tank is from a 1987 300ZX and has outside dimensions of 30†long, 21†width and 12†depth Autometer 5417 (to match other gauges) 240Ohms Empty, 33Ohms Full Sender is a Moeller Marine 35762-10†reed type that matches the Ohms of the 5417. This sender does not use a float arm (see pictures) Sheet of 20 gauge sheet metal

I like the tank setup - NICE I went a different route with my tank. I am almost completely done and will post pictures tomorrow in the correct forum. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/105275-fuel-tank-conversion-ls1/ Danno74Z

What are you using for a fuel tank? Just curious as I'm almost done with my setup and will post some pictures in a few days. Danno74z

Hey Guys (Cheesepocket, mpramsey) Thanks for the replies...Really appreciate it. Today, I spent the entire day working on the fuel system. A lot of dirt under there - WOW. Cut out the wheel well using a spot weld removal tool, cut and welded in a new floor and then trimmed up the area for the new tank. A lot of work! Cheesepocket - I like your idea with the filter and charcoal. I might have to try that. Danno74Z

Aero Z - Thanks for the information and links on the EVAP system. I have a little twist to the tank I'm using and I will post some pictures when I know what I'm trying to do will work. If I use the existing expansion tank like you suggest how do I get the fumes out of it? Currently, those fumes get sucked up to the charcoal canister and get burned - correct? Dan

Hello, Way back when I had the tuner remove all the emission controls such as the rear O2 sensors and the evap stuff so to use the computer to purge the charcoal canister is probably not going to happen and I really don’t want to add it back. I guess I’m at a loss right now on what to do. I need a vent of some sort not build a vacuum in the tank nor do I want to smell gas fumes inside the car. Probably add a roll over vent valve to the small vent on the tank but what about the vent where the fuel pump drops into the tank and the one in the filler neck. If others could help out on what they did I would appreciate it. Dan

Thanks...Dan

Jon, Was this your final measurements for the shafts? "We can use the level measurement because it is pretty close to the middle, and we get a length of 14 3/16" for the driver and 14 13/16" for the passenger side. This is roughly 1" shorter than stock on the pass side and 1 3/16" shorter on the driver's side." Also how many splines are on the shaft? Thanks, Danno74Z

Hello, Working on my Z car conversion again and I have a couple of question on the EVAP system and the LS1. I'm in the process of installing a fuel tank and the tank has itself has a small vent by the sending unit and another larger one by the OUT and IN for the fuel pump. The original 74 OEM tank had hoses all over it like an octopus which all lead to the small expansion tank in the quarter panel. Also, the vent in the neck in the filler tube also has a hose going to the ET. It then appear (and correct me) that the vapors are drawn out of the ET to charcoal canister by vacuum via the intake manifold. Does this sound correct? What are you guys doing with the Datsun charcoal canister in the engine bay? Are you pulling a vacuum off the LS1 to get rid of the gas fumes and if you are does this effect the LS1 fuel mixture in any way? Thanks and all have a Merry Christmas Danno74Z

Two weeks ago you mentioned a modest price increase. Did you ever get that information? Thanks

Finally putting together my axle assembly! This should be practically bulletproof for my HP needs. Danno74Z FYI Stub Axles Made By: Chequered Flag Racing.net Joseph P. Siam 9833 Deering Ave unit I Chatsworth Ca 91311 818 350 6222

Thanks Danno74Z

I have to agree so I'm building my own too. Any chance you can take a quick measurement for a K-State Alumni Thanks. Your car is coming out really well! Danno74Z

Sunny Z, I looked at the picture that shows the holes to your floorboard. I "thought" that john's setup attaches to the side of the frame rails and depending on the year of the Z it uses different size brackets. I have the JTR setup and it looks exactly what you got there were it drills holes in the floor. I'm going a different route with the JTR setup and modifying that transmission crossmember. A quick question. Can you measure the amount of room there is between the harmonic damper and the radiator? THANKS>>> Danno74Z

Hello, The bolts you received with 10.9 markings (metric) are equivalent to a grade 8 SAE bolt. There are some minor differences but I would would not worry about them. I am not a mechanical engineer but I would say you have the correct bolts already. There will be a little play but you need to put a measuring caliper on your bolt openings and the bolts. 35mm long bolts should be adequate. Below are a couple of links for you. There is not much room up there when trying to tighten the driveshaft to the pinion flange and I believe JTR recommends a socket head bolt but don't quote me on that. I received my pinion flange from JTR and not the Johns Conversions so there might be a difference. http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Materials-and-Grades/Bolt-Grade-Chart.aspx http://www.boltdepot.com/product.aspx?cc=20&cs=77&cm=22&cd=1328 Danno74Z A bolt with partial threads vs a threaded bolt should not matter but again I'm not a mechanical engineer. A grade 10.9/8.0 bolt should spec. with or without threads at the grade specified. If I had a choice I would use a standard bolt with partial threads use red loctite or locking nuts with split washers. I went to the garage and I measured the pinion flange bolt hole diameter and it's 8.07mm or .317inches. If your dead set on using SAE a 5/16(.3125)bolt should also work but based on my calculations a 8mm bolt would have less clearance (tighter fit) then the 5/16 bolt. I have to say an 8mm bolt is kind of wimpy for attaching the driveshaft and I also thought about enlarging the holes to 10mm. 10mm is about .394 or about 20thou over 3/8" way better in my opinion. I'm sure others will voice their opinions.

Alainburon, You mentioned- "As soon as I get my hands on a long nose R200 with 3.36 gears". Well you will be hard pressed to find one as the 79 280ZX with the 4spd, MT was the only year that the 3.364 gears came in. You might have better luck chasing down a R200 with the 3.545 gears as more Z's came with them. Danno74z

Thanks Gothalosism. Today, I took the Camaro drive shaft into work and had one of the machinist cut off the rear yoke and to my surprise the wall thickness of the tube is .070. Standard wall thickness fo a drive shaft tube is .065 or .083. I had two other people measure it and they got the same results. The ID of the tube is 2.360 and the closest weld on end yoke is a Spicer 2-28-367 with a diameter of 2.344. That means the tube is .016 larger in diameter then the yoke or .008 on a side. I went ahead and bought the Spicer yoke to see if there would be too much slop between the two parts. The yoke cost $20 so no big deal. Danno74Z

Thanks Deja for the information that is exactly what I wanted to hear. I thought I might have some issues with the damper on the slip yoke but it sounds like it is OK to use.

Hello, I would like to know what diameter(and wall thickness) drive-shafts people are using on their conversions. I have an OEM Camaro shaft from the mid 90's that fits the T56 transmission but naturally it is way to long (no puns please). Anyway, the shaft diameter is 2.5" and is in great shape, it even has the damper on the transmission end. I figure why spend 300-400 dollars when I can take this one and shorten it and weld on a new rear yoke to fit the 1310 u-joint flange. The weld on yoke is about $25 and to get it balanced locally is $50. Below is a link to the procedure - looks easy! He even reused the yoke but I figure why go through the hassle of cutting it off and reusing when a new one is so inexpensive and I don't have to use a conversion u-joint. Is 2.5" diameter OK to use in the Z? Thanks http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/transmission-articles/493751-how-shorten-your-driveshaft.html

Hi 80LT1 Your build is going great and keep up the good work. We talked years ago but I sure you don't remember. Anyway I also moved from the LT1 to the LS1 for many of the same reasons you did and I will end it there. My LS1 is still on the test stand I built last year but working on it. Next week my hardened stub axles are due to arrive so I'm working on the rear of the car. I could not get them from MM so I went to another vendor in CA. You need to change your member title from 80LT1 to 80LS1

Trevor is correct NEAPCO 2-2-899-1 is flange to use on the Z and is the one JTR sells. The 1 after 899 is the key to getting the correct flange to match the 1310 u-joint and the other dimensions. Sorry. MSRP: $77.24 Price: $32.44JTR sells the flange for $65 You Save: $44.80 (58 %) Item Number: N2-2-899-1 Manufacturer: NEAPCO Manufacturer Part No: N2-2-899-1 1310 Series, Use Kit No. 1-0153, A-3.469, B-1.063 * D - Swing Diameter: 3.600 * E - Bolt Circle: 2.750 * F - Hole/Thread Size: .323 * No. Bolt Holes: 4 * G - Pilot Diameter: M-2.250 * Joint Angle: 15 Degree * H - Flange Face to Centerpiece: 1.625 http://store.gregoryssupply.com/series1000standardcompanionflange-bore1125-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-2-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-2-1-1-1-1-1-1-80.aspx