JoeinCA

Hmmm.. That seems like more work and more expense than fabricating your own fuel cell. Plus, if you are going to go through that much trouble, why use the stock lines? On a side note, if you have the same setup as i do, (originally an EFI setup) with the supply line and the return line as you mentioned, I have a pretty bulletproof dual regulated setup i use for my v8z. Granted this may not be applicable if you are running EFI, but it works great for my purposes. Basically I use a 15 psi GM TBI fuel pump in the stock location, and then run a regulator on the supply side. The fuel then exits the regulator via one port, and the rest of the fuel is routed into a second regulator, and back to the tank via the return line. I ran this setup for 4 years, and the car was my daily driver for half of that. It was a method born out of my cheap laziness originally, but i never had a single iota of a pressure drop at the carb... ever. Hope this helps. Joe

Yeah... I'm resurrecting my own dead thread..WHOOHOOO Seriously though, question still stands... 5 years later. Joe

Here's what seems to be a captain obvious sort of statement. I personally have not heard, or had any Z with a quiet fuel pump. Heck even the stock 280z fuel pump is ridiculously loud. I too would love to be able to replace the TBI fuel pump I use to feed my carbed V8. It sounds like someone has an old electric drill pressed up against my ear drum, spinning it at 10k rpm. So yeah, does anyone have any quiet, medium to high gph, 7-15 psi electric fuel pumps? Joe.

Hey guys, I'm looking to get some calipers for my new brake setup. I'm looking for toyota 4 runner front calipers, the non vented disk version. I'm also looking for the 240sx rear calipers. I'm on a bit of a budget, but I am willing to pay fair prices for the parts. Thanks guys. Joe

Thanks guys, I think i will be getting the majority of my brake stuff from Silverminemotors, I'll let you guys know how it goes for me. Joe

Well. I just ordered the tokico setup from Shox.com, ended up being $634 with tax shipped. Thanks 4x4runner, not a bad price. I was planning on buying the toyota calipers and the 79 280zx master cylinder from silvermine. Anyone have any other good sources for these, or the 240sx rear calipers?? Thanks for any help, i'm trying to keep within my budget here... which probably isnt going to happen. Joe.

Hey guys, I just picked up another Z after a 5 year hybrid Z hiatus. I have been looking for all of the parts to properly update and upgrade the suspension and brakes. Anyhow I stumbled across http://www.silverminemotors.com , and found some very interesting items like this spring/strut combo setup from Tokico: http://www.silverminemotors.com/product.sc?categoryId=6&productId=35 here's the pic: http://www.silverminemotors.com/images/12076335512432043414221.jpeg I was wondering if anyone has used this setup, and/or can vouch for Silverminemotors. Oh, another quick question, Does anyone know of a good source for the 94 240sx rear calipers? Thanks guys, Joe

I love my honda cbr 954 .. But it is alot of bike. A... i dunno 94-96 600 katana is cheap and semi disposable, easy to handle and enough power in the top end to give you an excessive thrill. All i have to say is respect the machine.. Think of it like... Bull riding inside a HUGE blender. Joe

sorry nizmo.. But that cant be reccomended, the oil used with r-12 is definetly not compatible with r134. Joe

Guy is right.. A flashing check engine light means that you are having a catalyst damaging misfire. and you should fix it asap. however, when you have a misfire that bad, you will definetly notice a loss of power, because it usually(75% of the time) requires a misfire on more than one cylinder to occur to actually dump enough raw fuel into the exaust to light the cat up... read the codes, you will be able to diagnose the problem fairly easily, if you have the correct test procedures to follow, try not to just throw parts at it. Joe

I am not saying that replacing everying like that is a bad way to go. I am just saying that i dont believe that it is actually 100% neccessary, mainly due to the fact that i know of quite a few A/C systems out there that have not had anything replaced, and had the refrigerant changed and they work just fine. I'm not saying that you are wrong. The safest thing to do is to replace everything, especially on an old system that no longer works due to a leak. And i concede to the fact that you probably have more experience with this than I do. I was simply sharing what i have seen done, and what i have seen to work out well for many others. Joe

Thanks for correcting me on that brandon. Though i dont think that it is the compressor seals that leak (since most compressors leak a little anyways). But with a BMW, i personally believe that there would not be a problem. Technically the problem that the EPA thought they would have when they made the retrofits required practice back in the day, was that R134 has a "smaller" molecular structure than r-12, and they feared that the old flexible AC lines would allow seepage, which is why the new lines are an improved design and have a "plastic" liner inside of them. But i have seen numerous freon changes with no problems of leakage or any abnormal function, with a simple 2 hour deep vaccuum pulled on the system. If your system can hold a deep vacuum for 2 hours. I can almost guarantee that yu will have NO leakage when switching to r134a. But, its all hearsay and the final word comes from the people that actually do the work on it... which they will say that magic word: Retrofit.. and you will shell out hundreds of dollars that may or may not be neccessary. That said, none of you heard this from me, I like having my universal EPA refrigeration certs. Joe

Phantom.. Check those codes.. It sounds to me like it is an o2 sensor problem, though usually gas mileage gets worse with o2 problems, but if your mileage has improved greatly, i would worry that i was running too lean. I reccomend getting an alldata account from alldata.com for the vehicle in which the engine came out of. or any vehicle with the same engine. You will then have all the information you need to diagnose the obd2 codes that pop, and if memory serves me correctly, you dont need a code reader for obdII, you can check via flash codes by running a jumper from you diagnostic lead port to ground, but check the book first. You may simply have a loose wire to one of your o2 sensors or another emission control sensor. But in my experience, most sensor problems will cause very noticeable driveability issues, aside from evaporative emission control devices and o2 ( though 02 can definetly cause driveability problems). I have spent more time troubleshooting obd 1 problems than obd2, mainly because with obd2, the code that comes up directs you to the problem. If you dont have the diagnostic manual though, and you pop multiple codes, you may chase your tail for a while. Many time you will throw multiple codes for a single problem, because one sensor can affect the operation of many others. Because they all check themselves by monitoring other sensors reactions to certain emission control actuations. Hope i helped a bit. even though i pretty much just told you to check the code Joe

mike... first i went to wyoming.. then i went back to northern california for a couple of months.. and then I was invited to the mercedes-benz elite program in Rancho Cucamonga. So, suffice it to say i have been very busy lately. Feels like i have lived a lifetime since i was a regular here.. You were going to UTI.. right? out in Texas? I have a friend that is going to the BMW step program out there right now... anyhow.. time for me to get some sleep. Joe

thats my bike hope this works out.... Joe

Randy: I am going to be living back in the east bay for a while, Antioch to be more precise. Thanks for the congrats v8dats. I am very happy to be done. Joe

RPMS: The whole retrofit thing is not neccessary. The retrofit procudure for many manfacturers is simply having conversion fittings, pulling a vaccuum on the system for an extended period of time, pulling all the oil out of the system and recharging using 134-A and the correct oil. It really shouldnt be very expensive at all. just my .02 Joe

Thanks, I will try to get a picture of it up asap.. unfortunately i lost my digital camera cable during my move to so-cal... Its good to see that hybridz contunues to be a great place. Joe

Hey everyone, I think that a few of you guys may remember me, i have taken quite the hiatus from the Z world for the past... 2 years or so because i have been in school. But i am now done with my automotive training (until my dealership sends me for more.) But thats not really the point of this post.. I have become addicted to a new form of raw power, mainly due to the law that stopped the 30 year rolling smog exemption which makes my Z un resgisterable in california... Yesterday i went and bought a 2002 Honda CBR 954 RR... and OH MY GOD... this thing scares the crap out of me. I love it. Came with a full aftermarket exaust system and some other nice little add-ons, it SCREAMS. I feel like I died and went to super speed heaven... I'm going be moving back up to northern california next month and if there are any other hybridz guys that ride, we should get together and take a nice leisurely ride some weekend.. oh yeah, and if anyone needs any advice concerning mercedes... feel free to give me a holler, i will have access to any information you could want. Take care. Joe.

Get an english wheel... And build it perfect yourself... It will only add about a month to the build... I love the look of a flared Z. And that is the direction of my next build. Maybe i should put a mercedes v8 in my next Z.... Joe.

Zero, I love the project, had one that is very similar rudely interrupted by more school and work. But as far as what 80lti is saying. I have to agree. and you really dont just grind it down and fix it... With the massive amount of weld you have there, you are going to have a brittle, crack susceptible area. I would recommend continuing with the build until the chassis will support itself, and then removing the section of tubing in that area, at least 3 inches away on either side, cut out at a 45 degree angle. Then get a smaller peice of tubing that fits rather snugly, and use it as a backing for the butt weld, also drill some holes and weld through to the tubing. they should be reasonable sized hole fill welds. Actually, i doubt that you could do that whole deal without having the frame in two pieces. but, if you do it this way it will be much stronger, and with proper metal finishing you can make it look very good. Have fun and be safe.. this coming from a guy with a broken ankle.. still riding the motocycle every day. Joe

Whoa... So, GT4 is actually... finally... for real... truthfully.... and no funny stuff.... totally... on the shelves? holy crap! I've been hearing release dates for this thing for the past 2 years! I finally just gave up on ever seeing GT4 hit the shelves. Now i must decide if i should actually go buy it... i still need to finish san andreas.... hmmm.. Joe

If you remember the overhaulin show that was at Wyotech, The Speed Air... I was lucky enough to.... uh... bring out a flaw in the design of the trunk latch. because of me they had to install an autoloc trunk opener kit. Better than the choke cable... I had a couple of teachers that were on the build team for that show. They said that she did nothing. A ditz with tits. pretty much. But, I wasnt there, so i dont know. that's my 1/4 cent. Joe

I would really have to reccomend going to Wyotech. in Laramie Wyoming. I spent 15 months there, I took 6 months of auto, 6 months of custom fabrication, and 3 months of diesel. I spent about $32,000 But if you want to learn custom fabrication, Wyotech is the way to go in my opinion.. Thier street rod shop has more tools than 99% of the Big name customizers. Plus, wyotech is a 5 day a week, 8 hour a day deal. And now that i am out, i'm worrying about WHERE i want to work, rather than IF i will get work. Joe

Alright, I want some more exaust clearance, and i wanted to give myself a good reason to redo my shoddy work on my fuel system. So i decided to build an aluminum fuel tank out of .090" aluminum. I could use a little advice about what sending units work with the datsun guage. The tank is going to be about 10" tall, but i dont know how tall the stock 280Z tank is. I think that i have the rest of it figured out. But the sending unit is a neccessity. I plan on driving this thing home from Wyoming. I would really appreciate any insight any of you may have. thanks, Joe