X64v

Ha, that was really cool. I should do something like that for my fuel cell or something else major. Ditto. I spent a minute going back and trying to freeze the video on the frame till I could read it.

+1 on what clifton said. Run an open loop idle (no O2 sensor input) and see what that does.

That's definitely far too hot, if you have a 180* thermostat. With a 3-row copper radiator, I'd run about 170* with a 160* thermostat. With my aluminum radiator, I run at 163-165* with a 160* thermostat and about 175* with a 180* thermostat (yes, it would fully shut at cruise). Edit: Just re-read your last post. Ditch that stamped water pump and get a real one with a cast impeller.

Hey, the Zuma has a static comp ratio of 7.0:1 *chants* Turbo! Turbo! Turbo!

Ha! Beat you by one minute. I was gonna send you a PM pointing you to this thread.

Looks like it was modified in the same way as the N42 Veritech-Z has was modified. His: By the way, there's no way these came from the factory like this. The only time the L series exhaust ports were round were for the liners, and neither of these have liners. It just looks like someone welded them up and cut them circularly.

Use the LC-1 setting, it still displays A/F.

Good to hear it seems to be working. My head still needs to be dropped by the machine shop, so it'll still be a while before I get it on the car. How about ping? Any change in tolerance?

My LC-1 reads dead on in Megasquirt. Make sure they're grounded to the same point and have the correct settings in the Megatune configurator and you shouldn't have a problem.

Wow, any more room between those tires and fenders and you could cross a river! Just teasing. Drop springs would do wonders for you, though. Exactly why I have no qualms about running Victoracers on the street (which I'll be doing soon here). Speedgato has well over 10,000 miles on his (street, autocross, and track use), and they still have just a little tiny bit of tread showing, which means they still have a fair bit of life in them as slicks.

8:1 cr with over 30psi of boost, on a turbo bigger than most of us run on our L28's. Wow.

Wow, aux. Wow.

Parking lots, red lights, gas stations, you name it, people are always complimenting me about my z and talking to me about it. Whenever a friend is riding with me they're always amazed about how many people stop to admire my car or talk to me about it. It's one of the coolest things about this car; they're not gawking at it because it's expensive or flashy, they're gawking at it because it's just plain cool.

Wow, I'm not going to read through that huge thread, but that overview was awesome. I can't believe how much info they got on this guy.

Because they're longer than the L28 rods, giving a better rod/stroke ratio, yet have the same bolt size, yielding the same strength. They want the 9mm instead of the 8mm so they don't give up any strength by switching rods.

uhhhhh.....NO. The L26 and L28 both had 9mm bolts.

I felt like doing more work on the head, so I unshrouded all the valves. There really was tons of material to be taken out of the cambers that was totally blocking flow. For this (and the step-radiusing above) I used a sanding drum on a Dremel, 1/4" for the exhaust ports, 1/2" for the valve unshrouding. Stock exhaust shrouding (all valves at about .490" lift). The smallest clearance between the head and the valve is about .060" Unshrouded exhaust. The smallest clearence is now about .110", almost double from stock. It really is a huge difference. Stock intake Unshrouded intake I owe thanks to BRAAP for his informative posts about removing the step in the exhaust ports and unshrouding the valves. If it wasn't for those posts, I probably wouldn't have done the carving I did.

Head is completely disassembled, and I got the exhaust ports smoothed out. Porting in my bedroom The cast-in step where the aluminum behind the valve seat dumps into the steel liner Removed. It's now a nice gradual radius all the way through to the steel liner, which should flow nicely. The liner is also radiused nicely; I can see how these flow just as well as the square ports, even though they're smaller.

I bought a cheap turboxs one a few months back and it didn't work at all. Low boost setting was 9psi, and if I gave it a quick jab at the gas it'd spike to 12. Later I built the one in the link (same as the super-cheap one on the ebay page) and it worked just fine, no problems at all. Use the home-built one.

Sounds like you burned a valve, or the valve is so far out of adjustment it never seats (or both).

Looks like I'll be the guinea pig on this one. I figure if the cooler does pop, I'll just change my coolant and plug the fittings on the cooler so nothing leaks out. For the record, the JTR automatic transmission cooler fittings are 1/2"-20 threads, which corresponds to a 5/16" inverted flare fitting.

Just built eight years ago? Eight years ago, I was eleven years old, in the fifth grade. Sorry, didn't mean to make you feel old or anything.

30-40kpa at idle is a pretty normal number with a stock cam. With a bigger cam you may see 50-60kpa (based off numbers I've heard quoted in in. hg.). Depending on your altitude, 90kpa will be at ambient pressure or just a little lower. Definitely not a good idle vacuum reading.

I've got my cooling re-routing ports drilled. The theory behind them can be found in this thread. See my posts in the aforementioned thread about drilling them, positioning, etc. Hopefully this weekend I'll get all the valves out of this head and start removing the step in the exhaust runners.

I came across this problem on my engine, an F54 bottom end with an E88 head. Turns out, the P-79 and P-90 heads use different holes for getting water to the head than the earlier heads, so the gasket blocks off some. Go look at post #121 in the thread 'Head cooling on cylinder #5' in this sub-forum, it explains the changes well.