X64v

Cygnus - Not saying you shouldn't try to get the car sealed up, but as an aside: Why don't you set up your overrun settings in Megasquirt to cut all fuel during decel/engine braking? It saves fuel during engine braking, makes the effect stronger, and would completely eliminate all fumes on decel. You'd still want to seal up the car for all the other fumes, but at least it wouldn't bother you so much in the meantime. I've got mine set up and it's wonderful. Or does MS-II not have that capability?

I don't know about saving stuff from easytherm as I've never used it, but it will save all your warm up tables and coolant-temp-related settings, if that's what you mean. Every menu in megatune it will save.

Yes. In MegaTune, go to File>Save as, and save it as a new .msq file.

Oops, I didn't notice you were running EDIS. Like you said, it's multimeter time. You only have two choices anyways

I just tapped off Coil +. Relays draw such a tiny amount of current it's not going to hurt anything, and this has power only in On/Start.

Cool, I'll dig up my fuel and spark maps from when my set up was closest to yours.

Yes, as long as it only blows out the side of the block (compression leak only, no oil or coolant passages hit), you're good to keep on driving. I blew a head gasket in Phoenix, then drove it back to Tucson (~100mi), then to school for a week while I waited on the gaskets. No big deal, the psh psh psh gets a little annoying though. OEM head gaskets (from MSA or the original Nissan supplier, not Felpro or the like) are cut in a specific way to blow out the side of the block without distorting coolant/oil passages.

If it's not 110 degrees out, I like to wear a set of U.S. Navy coveralls my cousin gave to me. They look almost exactly like this. I keep them rolled up in one of the car's tool boxes in case I have to work on the car on the road, I can always throw them over my clothes wherever I am. You could find a pair at just about any military surplus store. In the winter, I have a green pair that are super warm, but they were handed down to me, I have no clue where to get them.

XXR 513 wheels, 15"x8", 4.5" backspace, 16lbs/wheel, seen here wrapped in Yokohama AVS ES100 rubber, 225/50R15. They're all over eBay for basically nothing. Here, wrapped in Kumho Victoracers, 225/50/ZR15

Actually, that's backwards. Retarded timing is safer, advancing it too far will cause detonation. Our set-ups are fairly similar, go check the map sharing sticky at the top of the megasquirt forum, I've posted my timing maps there.

I just removed/reseated my processor a few times in a row. It greatly reduced my false AE triggers. They're not 100% completely gone, but perhaps 95% or so. The car was almost undriveable when it was cold, because the false triggers would cause the engine to miss constantly. Now, I only get one or two on a five-minute drive.

As a side note, the 1gDSM BOV is set up like this from the factory: partially open at idle, a nice ppsssshhhhh on gear shifts, and the same nice steady release on part throttle lifts. If I'm cruising on the freeway at 85, give it just a tiny bit of gas and come back to cruise, the bov lets out a small sigh even though I was no where close to boost.

I had these on my wall for a while: My current end table: They're used-up Victoracers. I've been looking for a glass top to put on it, but I may leave it like this.

U of A pays me 5k a year to audit 10 classes for them. However, to even audit the classes, I'm forced to pay 5k a year to enroll, which seems like kind of a gyp to me. Then, to make sure I'm auditing the classes, they make me actually do what the professor says and keep what a student would call a '3.0'. So in the end they pay me with 34 of these 'credits' each year, which are good for nothing except 128 of them gets me a fancy piece of paper after 4 years. Apparently the paper is like a coupon that I give to my employer in exchange for more salary. I guess on the bright side, I get to chase girls around all day at work, and don't even have to show up on the days I don't feel like it. Aren't we all...

Heh, thanks guys. Yeah, I did alright. I went from a first run of 56.9 down to a 51.2 in 6 runs. The fast guys were running 45.x-47.x though so I still have some work to do. I'm about on pace with the rest of the novice group I guess.

They performed very well at the Auto-X today. I had a bit more sidewall flex than with my Victoracers (obviously), but wasn't noticeable in anything but the tightest 180 degree U-turns. Straight line grip is tremendous for a street tire, and they were very controllable and forgiving in the corners, still providing more cornering force than the warn-down Victoracers. I stand by my A+ for these tires.

I've had a lot of problems with my turbo set up in the past. Blown ringlands at the track, mystery high rpm misses, constant pinging, countless blown head gaskets, gremlins in the ECU wiring, the list goes on for hours. I'm sure lots of turbo guys on here go through the same things, and at times it makes you want to give up and drop the coin to go LSx or something. But, once everything is sorted out, it's so worth it. When you mercilessly pound on your daily driver for eight consecutive runs (5 minute intervals) on a fast, open Auto-X course, and the car doesn't miss a beat, not a single ping or missed spark, putting out tire-melting torque at 165 degree water temps, with less money in the engine than some people spend on tires, it puts a smile on your face like almost nothing else. I can't wait to see what it will do on a real race track.

My new one:

The Z got some new shoes today, since I'd already corded my used Victoracers (two of which are now the base to an end table in my living room). I chose the Yokohama AVS ES100, 225/50/R15 (V-rated). A few quick pictures, along with better pictures of my wheels. These things grip. Hard. I had been losing traction when boost hit in 1st gear with the old Victoracers (~12,000 miles, 0 tread depth), even with a passenger in the car and a full tank of gas. These don't lose traction, they hook. I'm sure brand-new Victoracers would beat these, but that shows how close these are in performance, even at 2/3 the price and a much higher treadwear rating. So far they're very quiet, don't tram-rail (the Victoracers tram-railed horribly), and give a much nicer ride. Not that these things are important to me, but if I can get the same performance with these tires on the track with a nicer ride off the track, that's fine with me, I'm no masochist. We'll see how these tires do at the Auto-X tomorrow, but so far, they get an A+.

My l28et also likes to idle at 12.5:1. Any higher than 13:1 and it misses and won't pass smog. I run 18 degrees of idle advance. Cygnus, I'm having the exact same problem as you are, AE coming on big time when it shouldn't be. However, I'm running 100% TPSdot on MS-I. This problem just came on, no changes in wiring or tuning. I can drive along with a steady foot and watch my accel LED blink randomly, and half the time it causes the engine to miss. I'm going to try Zmanco's suggestion of re-seating the processor.

Awesome picture. What do you do in relation to those, Rick? For anyone who wants a good read on what it was like to be on a space shuttle crew back in the 80s, I'd highly recommend Riding Rockets by Mike Mullane. I really enjoyed reading it.

That part doesn't need a translation.

MechE Sophomore at the University of Arizona, classes started 25 Aug. I've got Physics 241 (Electricity and Magnetism), Calc 223 (Vector calc), CE 210 (Hand Drafting + AutoCAD), CE 214 (Statics), and an intro to Psych class. Statics and Vector Calc are beautiful classes (though my specific ones are far too easy). A surprisingly useful class is Diff. Eq's (took it last semester, a bit out of order). It's conceptually heavy, but lots of fun, and really simplifies a lot of stuff (Newton's law of heating/cooling, for example). I'm going through hell in my E and M class. Not that the concepts are hard, but the Prof. is. Rumor has it he got suspended three years ago because he failed an entire class... And next semester I get to pick my minor back up with German 300. I can't wait.

Tank x is identical to the original tank in my 240, production date 5/73. I'm using the far side vent (1/2", right?) as my fuel return fitting.