X64v

My refresh button finger can run a 4 minute mile... Edit: Either that or they're calling me the water/towel boy.

Just doing my best to avoid doing the Material Sciences lab report that's due in an hour...

Just caught 'em both. 9 members, 7 names.

Ahahahaha! Now that one I'm saving with another screen shot.

It's already started.

141mph. 240z, L24et, 10psi, 8.9:1 CR, pig rich and 22* spark timing. 215-60-14's, ZX 5 speed, 3.364:1 R180, 6600rpm in 4th gear. Still pulling slightly, but ran out of straight. Maybe would have hit 145 tops. No aero mods whatsoever, car felt fine to me, no vibrations, not an uncomfortable amount of lift or anything.

The Dunder Mifflin logo was for me. I love The Office, so I threw it in there. And fine, happy with your shirt now? ha.

Yes, the eye hook near the center is precisely what I'm talking about. You had it right, it's a tow hook. One pops out the square or circle, and the tow hook goes in there. Out of sight until one needs it.

That didn't do quite as much front end facial damage as I thought it would. I've been on dark forest roads in the z wondering how unpleasant it would be to take out a deer's legs and have it land in my lap via the windshield... Actually, that is a magic tow hook. Ever wonder what that little square or circle on the bumper of a BMW or Porsche was?

It's a labeling issue. The N33 and P50 listed on the site are labeled E88 on the head itself.

heh, I didn't know what to call it. And getting it at 45 degrees is going to be a little bit of a challenge. Because of the way my dump pipe is made, it has to go in the first bend as drawn.

What does everyone think of this set up? Valve cover open but filtered, the rest set up per the diagram below. I was thinking this would give good vacuum off boost through the manifold (when exhaust flow is low) and then once on boost, the upper PCV valve would shut, and the lower one would open, creating a better vacuum with the high volume of exhaust flow. Or should I ditch the manifold PCV valve and just run the exhaust evacuation?

A small update. The engine, totally stripped and disconnected, ready to be removed. ...And engine out! I'm still waiting on rod bolts to finish the motor, and plus I've been too busy with school to make any significant progress on assembly anyway. I should have everything ready to go in by next weekend though.

I've had great luck at the Pick-N-Pull in Tempe. Prices are good and there's usually 2-4 S30's and perhaps 3-5 S130's.

Norma M20 (BMW powered) Hillclimb...

Ugh, you don't have to tell me twice, I hate winter! As of tonight, the path in my front yard is covered in snow! I'm going to have to shovel all that stuff out tomorrow. And it's going to be down to 75°F, so cold I'll have to wear jeans!

No, that is the 'thermotime switch' that has something to do with the water heating of the '73 flattop carbs (not sure exactly what, I never ran the flattops). Since you have the round tops, you don't need it. The sensor that runs your gauge is a 1-wire in the front part of the lower thermostat housing (it's faintly visible in the picture you posted, with the yellow wire attached to it).

I will confirm that that is indeed the stock return on the '73s.

Alright, the turbo swap. I did this in June of '07. It was fairly straightforward, just collected the parts (turbo, manifold, oil pump, oil lines, etc.), pulled the oil pan and welded a bung in for the oil return, and bolted everything on. I did this mostly on summer nights way into the morning, so I have no pictures of this, but I do have pics of the engine in various states of assembly with the turbo. First mock up. Note the total spaghetti dinner of wiring on the fender. Just after the first test drive. J-Pipe is in the way, but all that wiring got cleaned up. Also note that the nice shiny painted manifold in the first picture isn't so shiny here. That "1200°" ceramic paint they sell at the parts store does not cut it on a turbo motor. I've daily driven it in more or less that condition since June. I've done a bunch of smaller stuff like a cold air intake, 'dump pipe' exhaust (detailed here), better coil, JTR aluminum radiator (awesome product btw), etc. Another random engine shot that doesn't really fit anywhere, just taken while doing some work one day (btw the push on blue "super stock" line kicks the hell out of braided AN line in my opinion; much easier to use, super flexible, and very inexpensive). I went to a track day in New Mexico in January (detailed here), and while it was a great time, I did end up beating my ringlands to hell. That's where I am today, hitching rides with my roommate to school every day, and rebuilding an F54 block in my bedroom. As long as my parts arrive in time, it should be in the car next weekend. The head gasket told the tale of the death of my engine. Cylinder 5 Cylinder 1 (2, 3, and 6 look the same as well) The F54 block (out of my mother's old wrecked 280zx) freshly on the stand, ready to be worked over. Parts removal Stripped, honed, cleaned, and painted. It's sitting like that at the moment, waiting for rings and rod bolts to come. I've got all the new gaskets, new timing set, new rod bearings, etc. already, and I'll be using the new water pump and turbo oil pump off the old engine. For a cylinder head, I'll actually be re-using my E88. Before you dismiss this as stupid, hear me out. It's the '73 model E88, which means it's got the large 48.7cc chambers. On an L28 with dished turbo pistons and a standard fiber head gasket, that puts me at 7.9:1 SCR, which will be just fine for making more power off boost for daily driving, as well as being low enough to handle the boost. The valves are 2mm smaller each than a P90, but I figure turning the boost up a pound or two would take care of that no problem. It's already been rebuilt and in great shape, so my cost on that is $0. That's it for tonight, we're up to date. I'll post more pics of the engine and swap as it gets assembled and installed.

Here's some detonation evidence that we don't see as often. We've all seen pictures of head gasket elongation on dished piston/p90 head engines, but here's bad detonation on a flattop/open chamber head. L24 and late E88 head (8.4:1 SCR). Note the odd and usually uneven distortion. Cylinder 1 Cylinder 2 Cylinder 5 Cylinder 6 The chamber shape. My point is that the distortion is happening in a very different way from the heads with quench pads.

So I've been meaning to do this for a while, but haven't ever really found the time to sit down and do it all at once, so I guess I'll do it in parts until I catch up to where I am today. My 240 actually started with my father, who bought the car from its original owner right about 1980. He daily drove it and auto-x'd frequently up through 1988. He kept it fairly stock, but did the usual upgrades like wider wheels/tires, bigger sway bars, stiffer drop springs (2" drop back then), urethane bushings all around, etc. (all from Motorsport Auto back when it was first starting up; we lived just around the corner). In the 2nd week of 1989, the engine developed a nasty rattle (turned out to be a broken cam spray bar), and the car was temporarily retired. Well, I was born the next week, one thing led to another, and the car never got fixed. Fast forward 15 years, I was 15, and in love with the car (even though I'd never heard it run or ridden in it or anything), so I decided to get it running again. This is as far back as I can find pictures. I did eventually get it running in late spring '05, just a few months after I turned 16. My father decided that since I'd put so much work into it, and since it wouldn't be on the road without me, he gave it to me, and it's been my daily driver ever since. More or less what it looked like in daily driver status: I had gotten it running with a pair of '72 SUs. Otherwise the engine was bonestock. So I drove it around like that for a few months, and then in late December '05/early January '06 I decided to try my hand at painting. Prepped for paint: My makeshift spray booth (two pop up shade frames and a bunch of plastic from our new mattresses) Primered Painted. I had the spray pattern and settings wrong, so it came out a bit thick and rough, but overall it was better than before. (Just water spots on the hood) I drove it in that condition for another 11 months with nothing more than mild modifications (5 speed, cd player and speakers, etc.). That summer I got the turbo bug, and, thinking ahead, purchased and built a V3.0 Megasquirt I system. Some 338cc injectors, an n42 intake, etc. and I was on my way. Since I still had an E88 head, I had to drill the mounting holes for the FI intake, and notch the ports for the fuel injectors (it's not that big of a deal, I was able to do it without removing the head from the engine no problem). That's all for tonight, I'll detail the turbo swap in the next update.

Wow, I did not know that. Very good tidbit of info there for sure.

If your pin height can go down to 26mm, then you're golden. Dunno if you know about this or not, but this is the perfect tool: http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ A 28.35mm pin height would put you at 0 deck. Though obviously those numbers should be checked in the real world, as they're real close but not right on.