Challenger

Well I have good news and bad news... Bad news- It was still running crappy and I was sitting there idleing and I heard a little pop and there was a little smoke coming from the engine bay. Went in and looked at the PCV tube had come off of the connection, not a problem, put it back on. Then it still wouldnt start so I looked again and the egr cap had popped off. So heres the bad news. I had sandblasted my intake manifold before capping the egr and painting the manifold. I thought I had cleaned it out enough, even washed it out after capping the egr so none of the water was able to cleanthe egr rail. Anyways I found directly behind the egr opening a little bit of oily sand sticking to my firewall... Im pretty sure most of the sand would have gone OUT of the engine but Im pretty sure some would have had to go in. :( So intake manifold will be coming off, probably need to do another compression test to see if everything is still fine. Im kind of pissed I didnt see this coming. Hopefully its just a matter of taking it all apart and putting it back together clean. I really dont want to have to pull the head. So good news- Got myself a glasspack and installed it. Also I was able to find a 1g DSM Bov in town for $10. Ill be picking that up monday. Ill probably just ditch the turbo intake and the stock pop off valve and put on one of my n42 egr intakes that had the egr opening capped realllllly well. We all make mistakes, this is obviously my big one.

Or the fitment really sucks and you have to do body work on it and paint it. Ive heard CF is tough to drill, Im pretty sure it wouldnt come predrilled to mount.

Basically just need the coil, wiring, ignitor, etc. The whole shebang. Doing the conversion on my 81 turbo. Let me know a price and please post a picture. Thanks!

Hey guys, might be trying this again!! Ive got a little more experience under my belt, and I might be able to convince myself to use jb weld to seal it up. Ive also got an intake that doesnt have all the holes the turbo intake does... I also have a turbo car I can switch out intakes on within a couple hours to test it out. Ive got this to work with...

I have to agree also on the runner thickness. Might consider drilling a couple holes through the runners to see how thick it is. Seems like you could weld up the holes pretty easily if you find the thickness is fine. Also concerning flow on the tb, Im assuming that anything larger than the stock Tb will flow plenty of air through the manifold. Does that mean (if thats true) you should look for a tb that gives the best flow into the intake, rather than just something really big? Also when working on the angle of the Tb opening would using the blowing end of say a shop vac work on finding the best angle for proper air distribution to each runners? I just remember cleaning up a manifold with a shop vac and I thought Id see what happens if I stuck the nozzle over the TB opening. I really noticed 1 and 2 had very little flow.

I have a urethane one. By sagging do you mean while your driving around it being pushed down by the force of the air? If so no worries... just put in a few braces. Search "reinforcing the xenon airdam" I made a thread showing a simple brace you can make.

Yeah Ive done that a couple times. A set of new rod bearings, dsm BOV... I was excited since I sold them for like $30 each. Still idles bad even with new injector connectors/wiring. Im starting to think its more something with my electronics since its somewhat speratic. I might need to pull my injectors off soon and get them all checked flow wise. It might be a matter of a couple cylinders getting more fuel then the others thus making it idle rough?? All I know is I need to get it figured out before I modify anthing else...

Well, right now it idles pretty crappy. It doesnt seem to be able to stay at one rpm consistently, it will jump around at idle, die sometimes, etc. I dont want to contribute this to the emmisions/idle controls but the throttle response is a whole lot better. Before full throttle would actually kill the engine. Now the rpms shoot right up. Plans now are to fix the idling issue. Install a bov on the jpipe, maybe even make a new j pipe. If I can find one thats not too expensive, some kind of a/f ratio gauge to be able to tell whats going on in my engine and then get a muffler. My dad is having a fit and wont let me drive it as is. Its not really loud, but a imagine a muffler might be good...

Ahh, not to bad. Looks like you lucked out and still have the front section of the wheel well. For that Id just grab some sheetmetal and have at it. Might do two pieces depending on your skill level.

Any pictures of the rusted area? I only had to repair the rusted area behind the rear wheels. I guess it wasnt the whole rear quarter.

I had a 74 2+2 parts cars but I sold it because no one needed the body panels (it was rust free) I replaced my floor with a section cut from another car, rear quarters I made myself and the rocker panels were made from 3 coupe rockers. Talk to tabco. You may be able to use the coupe pieces but modification will be neccesary.

I havent really installed camber plates before but arent they supposed to be on top of the shock tower and actuall welded to the tower?...

Oh ok, now that I think about it that makes sense. As long as it works.. Well spoiler is gone now. I think it actually looks a little cleaner... also got the rest of the injector connectors wired up. Rearranged the wires a little bit to fit nicer. Looks alot better and hopefully the non corroded connections will help the engine. Found a valve cover gasket in my room so Im going out now to pull the cover, inspect things, clean things up and reinstall. Might even paint the cover since I have a little black high temp left.

Remember this forum isnt just here for people to say "Looks great, nice job." Its not just to make people feel good. Its about constructive criticism, complimenting, discussing what works and what doesnt etc. You have to learn to not get your feelings hurt if someone thinks your doing something thats a waste of time, not beneficial, etc. I think its a cool project and am anxious to see the finished project. Should be cool. Also how will you be blending in the original TB flange to your new tubing at the front?

Sure. Anything I can pull off to make a little cash.... Pm me what you feel is reasonable. Also, in the picture you can see that the boost sensor has the vacume/boost signall coming directly from the intake manifold. Is that ok? Im pretty sure it was hooked up to the vcm rather than strait to the intake. Will it get a proper signal? I dont want to build boost quite yet so I cant test it.. Another question. I connected the breather on the valave cover to the fitting in front of the TB. It basically does the same thing as before just it enters at a different spot. Think it will be ok?

Very nice. I wish they sold a front airdam similar to the one in your photoshop. Nice work.

Here she is. Pressurized the fuel system and it seemed that the loctite was coming out of the threads. We kept it pressurized for a few minutes and it all cleared up. Everything looks tight and sealed. Heres a picture of the egr blocked off, makes getting to the downpipe alot easier than before. That is good because it seems like something is burning in/on my downpipe and is making a little smoke... Im hoping its just some wd40 that I had put on the egr bung in an attempt to remove the fitting. I might have to take it off and clean it up/check the gasket. Heres a picture as it sits now. Anyways, I was able to get it fired up and running "reasonably" well. The car is MUCH louder being that it only has a downpipe and about 3-4 ft of exhaust tubing. It is still stumbling when I give it throttle, something it was doing before. Ill have to address that once I get some other things buttoned up. I really have no idea what it is... Also a member in town has an extra DSM bov Ill probably pick up. That way I can remove the large pop off valve on the intake. I was conveniently left over with one line coming from the afm to turbo boot and one fitting on the manifold. Perfect to provide a vacume signal for the BOV and a vent line to after the afm.