Ben's Z

Can I use valve springs off of a 280z head on a 280zx lash adjustment head conversion?

Thank you. I wasn't sure if the valve springs were different for the hydraulic head versus the non...

Doesn't answer anything I asked really.

My P90A cam is pitted and cannot be used during me rebuild. Users have chimed in on here offering used cams for sale. Do I need their lash pads or can I use mine if they are good? If I switch to a non hydraulic set up using the Time Sert method do I need different lash pads, springs rocker arms, etc., etc. because all the parts are different from a hydraulic set up? Blast me with all the info you can.

Bump

My P90A cam is pitted and I need a new one for my rebuild. At this point I would rather do the time sert conversion and switch to lash adjustment. I just need a stock P90 turbo cam and I think I need all related valve train. If I have to use my hydraulic set up I will do so. Please email me with what you might have baprickett@gmail.com

Ok found out my hydraulic P90A cam is shot. Should I go to a used or new cam, or should I just switch to adjustable lifters or stock with the hydraulic set up??? I think the consensus for my power goal of 250-270 at the wheels deems the stock profile proficient. Chime in.

What about if I later upgrade to the 300zx ecu? What about it working with the stock T3?

With a stock ecu?

Ok, so if this cam is shot because the lobes are too corroded, should I still switch to a solid lifter cam of stock specs. Like one off of a standard solid cam P90 head?

I am taking my hydraulic motor to a friend for rebuild. My hydraulic cam has some lobe pitting. If that came is shot, I think I will convert to a solid lifter set up, using the Time Sert deal. However seeing as I only want 250-270 horse at the wheels for now (and thus going to use the factory T3 turbo), would buying a performance N/A cam be a waste? I plan on using all mechanical methods for my horsepower goals, no ECU change. Using the factory T3 and hydraulic cam if it turns out to be ok will probably be fine I am guessing. Putting on a cam good for 6500-7000 would be pointless with the T3 turbo correct? If I do need a new cam, would would you recommend? A performance hydraulic cam or a solid cam for potential future power increases? How about the cam specs or a part number for either?

How much are t3/t4 hybrids? I have heard about guys peddling crap on ebay. Mounting a hybrid to the stock exhaust manifold is pretty easy correct?

Not an expert on Turbos by any means. I have what I believe is a stock T3 from a 83 280zx for my S30 swap. I wanted to have my turbo housing ceramic coated. While I was disassembling the bolted on parts to my 83 engine I thought I would try to separate the turbo from the intake and exhaust sides. I snapped the head off the bolt. What should I do now? Toss it? Take it somewhere? There was no end play on the shaft. 160k on the car. Only want 250 to 270 rwhp when done. Was told that Turbo would suffice. Thoughts? Leave it busted? Ceramic coating a waste of money?

Really... I can't be the only sorry ******* who has ran in to this problem. Every single person who has done this swap must have gone through this.

No, I used 280zx calipers. Using those calipers and the stock L Bracket mounting point for the rubber hose and steel line cause the parking brake cable bracket to chafe the rubber hose causing it to burst. I need to know which model years or generation 240sx ss brake lines that will allow me to trim back the factory steel line to the bracket entering the apex of the wheel well and then hook up that trimmed hardline to the 280zx caliper itself.

I mentioned in a previous thread I am rupturing brakes hoses on the parking brake caliper bracket from suspension travel because of my 280zx rear disc swap. I was told to cut the line back to the bracket entering the wheel well and install 240sx stainless steel brake hoses. Which generation or model year 240sx lines do I need?

I have read a few posts about using the non turbo 225mm clutch in turbo apps. My goal for HP when done is 250-270rwhp, using my stock 77 5 speed. FMIC, Manual Boost Controller, Rising Rate FPR, Walbro will be the mods. I am in the aftermarket parts business, so I try to use my customers for buying my parts. I was looking at an Exedy Organic Stage 1 or Stage 2 Clutch with an aluminum flywheel, however I am limited in being able to get those through my distributors. 225mm clutch kits are much more widely available. Will one of these work and will they last with my power mods? What is this I see about using only 6 bolt holes because 9 will not line up?

I parted out and sent my 83 280zxt to scrap metal, but before I sell parts on here or ebay I want to make sure I have something that works. Is there any way for me to hook up 12 volts to my digital cluster to make sure everything is ok? Anyone have a diagram or advice?

Which year 240SX lines did you purchase?

Do you use an oil cooler for these swaps? Mandated? Strongly advised? Eh? Should you use the donor car cooler? I cut one of the lines in half during the engine removal.

Found out tonight I have a hydraulic cam. Any disadvantage to this? I know on American V8's typically you get valve float at higher revs versus a solid cam. Same is true here? Just leave it?

Can the machine shop do this? Also how do I know if my head is hydraulic or not... Flame away!

I started the process of taking the 280zxt donor motor from the car yesterday. I popped off the valve cover and 9 of the 12 cam lobes were rusty. Inspection sticker on windshield is from 2003. The front 3 cam lobes appeared to be fine. Should I count on buying a new cam during the rebuild? If so, is there any camshaft I should just upgrade to? I had previous posted that I was looking for 250-270rwhp and that this goal was obtainable with the stock cam. However if I am going to have to replace it, I might as well upgrade if can for minimal expense. Any reason why the front 3 would be fine and the rear 9 would be corroded?

Since lowering my car with Eibachs and doing the 280zx rear disc conversion I have chaffed and busted 3 rubber hoses on the rear end of my car. It is clear that using the factory hard line mounting point on my 77 is allowing the rear suspension to come up far enough that it is allowing the ebrake cable bracket on the 280zx calipers to make contact with the rubber hose and after short while rupturing the hose. I have tried bending/routing the rubber hose different ways to no avail. What are others doing address this concern? Should I go back to factory springs? Would this help?

Anyone find an answer? Does using the adjuster under the driveshaft work?