Ben's Z

I wrapped up my suspension restoration and lowered my car off the blocks and now there is way too much slack in the ebrake cable, it was fine with the car in the air. I crossed the cables as I had seen suggested, but still need to take up about 2-4" of slack for the e brake to work really well. I have seen other posts about using a 240sx brake cable but nothing about which model years I need use. Can you provide any other suggestions? Thanks.

Ok so Cardone has a part number with the bracket. I think I am going to order a 1983 right rear caliper with bracket, because for the swap the right rear 83 caliper goes on the left side of my 77. Is the mounting bracket going to work though? Essentially I need a left rear mounting bracket only.

I know they are for 280zx that is why I bought them. Any ideas why I would have the correct brakes on the passenger side but not the drivers side on my '83 parts car?

I have read countless threads about this swap... I bought 1983 A1 Cardone reman calipers left and right with Beck Arnley pads, caliper part #'s 19-566 & 19-567. I have a 1983 turbo parts car I was going to use the mounting brackets for. I took off both side and the drivers side had this huge steel bracket. The mounting bracket itself appears to be part of the rear hub assembly. The parts car on the right side has what appears to be the correct caliper bracket I need. I am using Z race products hub brackets. Here is the picture I took of the left Cardone caliper, the caliper I pulled off my parts car and that large steel bracket. What am I doing wrong, and what do I need to do to fix this.

I glass beaded the whole wheel, I had the roughness which was limited sanded and buffed out in under an hour. 320 grit wet, 400 grit wet, white wheel on the Makita buffer with brown rouge yellow wheel with green rouge, looks great.

I am in the midst of polishing the lip on the turbo wheels I acquired with my turbo parts car and I am trying to figure out what to do with the swastika center section. I am thinking about painting the whole swastika gunmetal and leaving the outer lip polished; or delicately painting the the grooves that were gold before I glass beaded the wheel on Friday, semi gloss black or gunmetal or something. Polishing the swastika center is a bit of a pain because of the small grooves that are machined in to the wheel face. Any pictures of restored or modified swastika wheels would be great.

So I should go with IC piping no bigger than 2.25"? This should allow me to run my stock mechanical fan? Any cooling issues using the stock S30/280Z radiator? This will be in southeast Texas with A/C. I may look at Evans NPG coolant.

Not to hijack this thread, but I didn't know for these swaps it required going to an electric fan. Is this is what you are all saying? I have a 83 parts car I am going to be taking the turbo engine out of here shortly, and want to have my ducks in a row before I get to changing out my N/A L28

Done, hope I didn't mess it up.

Here are pictures of all the wires. Tell me what needs to be cut. Sorry to be a ******, I just don't want to fubar this operation.

What year 240sx brake cable did you use?

Will do, FWIW the fuse cover was gone from the car.

I have a 77 280z, it should have a relay already right? So do I even need that green relay and the plug?

Yes I am talking about any and all wires that go behind that black panel into the car by the passenger kick panel.

Looking at that I must be over on the ignition side of things. I am dealing with items underneath the passenger dash where the rubber grommet passes through the firewall.

How many wires go to the plug for that green relay up under the passenger side of the dash? Some of the wires do go through the firewall, other go to the main harness and disappear. Here is a picture of the plug and the wires. This went to the green relay. I already snipped a larger wire that "Y'ed" off to somewhere else from another green wire.

No these are on the passenger side intermingled with the green relay for the EFI. Here is how I started. I unplugged the 3 plugs going into the ECU by the drivers kick panel. I then broke all the clips loose on the driver side wheel well and disconnected all the injectors and marked their corresponding locations. I unbolted 2 or 3 ground wires to the manifold, two round plugs going somewhere down towards the front of the engine and some other what I believe are cold start/emissions plugs. I then worked my way over underneath the hood latch on the fire wall to some relay or something over behind the front right strut tower. Those lead to the hole in the inner fender to the hole in the firewall, and that is where I am at. I also disconnected some wires off of the starter.

It is as though this part of the harness with what I believe has 3 wires in intertwined with the rest of the body harness. Basically I want to know if it is ok to start snipping other wires besides those to pull the wires through to the engine bay through the inner fender.

I am trying and have spent the last 2 hours of my life trying to get the green efi relay harness through this cluster f*ck of wiring on the passenger side of this 83 turbo... I cannot for the life me get this harness out through this mess of other wiring. I feel like taking my hedge clippers to the other wiring. I have pulled off the fender, I took out the blower motor housing, there are just so many wires. There are all of these other white thicker wires going through the hole in the fire wall. What do I need to do?

I got this information from a member here and over classiczcars.com Do you concur with this suggestions? The stock fuel system (other than the pump) can supply enough fuel for 270rwhp, (around 12-13 pounds of boost) However, to flow that much fuel in the stock system, you need to cheat and get the fuel pressure to rise as boost rises. The Begi regulator, and the Walbro fuel pump can do it reliably. The beauty of this setup is that is runs EXACTLY like a factory bone stock car, until you get above factory (7psi) of boost. The Begi regulator does nothing until you get into higher boost. I climbed my fuel pressure up to about 65psi of fuel when the boost hit around 12psi. I actually set it up with a bike pump. With the car at idle, the fuel pressure just sits at factory spec. I pumped air into the Begi (12psi) and observed the fuel pressure rise to 65psi. It's adjustable. You fine tune the fuel pressure rise with a screw and you adjust how fast the fuel pressure climbs with a bleeder screw on the unit. It's very mechanical, low tech, reliable, and runs like the factory car. The ECU upgrade is more elegant and has more tuning potential. But the Begi way with the stock ECU is set it-forget-it reliable. You will not be able to extract much more than 270rwhp with the stock ECCS though. That's about all the injectors can handle. Your torque will fall in the 300ft-lb range with that setup.

I bought a 83 ZXT for the engine for my 77. The car has no fuel tank, fuel pump or sending unit. Can I just rig up a universal fuel pump and pull fuel from my gas can mower to try to get it running? Have the main line and return line dump in to the gas can? I hate to buy parts when the car is going to scrap once I get the motor running.

Is it 85-88 Maxima Caliper brackets or 81-84 as the sticky from jmmortensen says?

Greetings, I believe this is my first post. I own a 77 280z and I am probably going to purchase an '83 280ZXT tomorrow for the motor. Presently the owner said he cannot get the engine to run, but it did turn over last time it ran. (6 years ago). My goal is to get the car running decent then pull the motor to put in my '77. I am going to pull my stock motor when the car goes to paint in January then place the Turbo engine in after paint. I think ultimately my goal is to have around 250RWHP from this engine. From browsing the net it seems the best way to achieve easy power, is to up the stock boost to around 10psi with a manual boost controller, 3"inch exhaust a T3/T4 hybrid turbo. I know with an IC higher boost levels can be achieved to around 12psi, but then the ECU and injectors start to become the limiting factors. I know about the brown top Ford Injectors and it seems like the z31 or s31, whatever it is ecu is a nice upgrade over the stock 280zxt ecu. Presently the parts cars has no starter, so I am crossing my fingers I can at least get it to turn over. Any other suggestions before I take on this task? Here is my car. BTW the parts car has Swastikas with what I am told is good tread, they will replace my awful hubcaps.