Ben's Z

Sent you a PM

Do you plan on answering my private message? I need one of these ASAP.

Update: Still will not disengage. I got another clutch from my supplier and did the 92mm bench test. I put the pressure plate from the new kit on my bench. I put the collar and bearing together and put it on the clutch fingers. It was 92mm exactly WITH THE NA 77 280Z COLLAR, NOT THE TURBO COLLAR I HAVE IN THERE AND WAS TOLD TO USE. I took my trans back out and installed the 77 collar because it gave me the 92mm. I put it all back together and it still will not disengage. I have no slack at the slave cylinder and I re-bled my master and slave, and got a strong stream out of the bleeder. I AM ONLY GETTING 3/8" OF ROD TRAVEL AT THE SLAVE CYLINDER. WHAT IS NORMAL?

My old MC worked fine before the motor swap and my new MC has the same length rod as the old one. The later S30's do not have a return spring on the SC. My old collar was too long.

My new SC rod has no adjustment at the rod. I have a Daikin or Exedy Stage 1 clutch with all 240mm turbo parts. I may try my old homemade rod that I bought the car with tomorrow and see if a little preload on the fork is enough for disengagement.

Hey *EDIT*, Thought you had me blocked. Anyhow, I called the radiator shop and they said they would have coated the tank internally. I flushed it out with purple power and let it dry. (Their advice) I put in all new rubber EFI line and blew compressed air with paint thinner through the feed line from the engine bay to the rear of the car. I installed a Wix clear inline fuel filter between the tank and pump and a new filter in the engine bay. Interestingly my pump was much quieter however my fuel pressure remained unchanged with all this work. I believe the pump might be a little weak. It took about 10 times of cycling the ignition to get enough fuel to fire the engine. Even the clear inline filter was barely filling after a fuel ignition cycles. I may order a Walbro 255 which is necessary for my power goals anyhow and a new OE FPR. Still showing 21psi at idle with 30 psi with the vacuum line removed.

I don't think this will be my issue. I originally tried reusing my 280z collar and it was taller, I couldn't get the slave cylinder back on the bell housing without putting a prybar on the clutch fork to make enough room for the slave cylinder rod, thus I bought the shorter collar. Right now I have the perfect amount of wiggle on the slave cylinder rod at rest. Any tighter and the fork would start to be engaged.

Tank was pretty yucky inside. Oddly enough the tank must have been repaired or boiled out before because it had a metal tag on top of the tank of a radiator repair shop here in Houston. I am going to call them tomorrow to see if they can tell me what they did and when.

I am going to pull the sending unit tonight to get a peak inside the tank. I suspect it could be crusty in there. I am also going to clean the pump strainer and blow air through the lines to see if this ups the fuel pressure.

No Stock 77 5 speed. "Turbo" fork (told not much difference othan ga. thickness) and turbo throwout collar.

I finally got my AEM UEGO hooked up yesterday and my AFR's were initially a little erratic. As the car runs for a few seconds the wide band shows AFR's between about 14.5-16, and sometimes it completely stops reading momentarily (goes way lean) and then goes back to that same readings. I just put my fuel pressure gauge on and it was reading 21 psi with the vacuum hose attached and 30 psi with it off. Obviously this is symptomatic of a bad FPR. However could a vacuum leak cause this low of pressure? I thought I saw somewhere that a NA FPR was the same as a Turbo, however the FPR off my 77 set up has two feed lines and the Turbo one on the car now has 1 feed, 1 return and 1 vacuum.

Dom, about 3/4" I'd say. I just got out of the car. It will go into gear with the wheels off the ground, however when I press in the clutch the wheels keep moving. Grinds when I try reverse. This is a brand new exedy stage 1 clutch, new pilot bushing, new master and slave, new collar and throw out bearing and new clutch fork with clevis on mc rod adjusted all the way out.

Given the fact this not a live rear axle, how could the body bind anything related to transmission? And if I did what would be the cure.

It did work after the new pilot bushing was installed.

I have been all over on this problem. 1977 280Z 5 Speed L28ET swap is done. Originally I tried to install this trans with the 77 throwout bearing collar, the slave cylinder would not bolt back up to the bell housing, and i was told to get a turbo throwout bearing collar. I installed that and the clutch would still not disengage. I bought a new MC and SC, installed and bled. Got strong stream of fluid out at SC bleeder. Ended up removing the trans again and found that the pilot bushing had chipped . I removed the old bushing and installed a new one. Clutch pilot tool slid nicely into pilot bushing. Reinstalled transmissions today with fellow Z enthusiast. Clutch disengaged with car on jack stands and went through gears, tires spun in the air. I let the car down at the rear, front tires on ramps and now clutch will not disengage again! Clutch clevis is almost adjusted all the way out and bump stop is not even touching the pedal. I have between 1/2"-3/4" of travel on the rod at the slave cylinder. Trans was fine before swap. Even with this travel this MC is still softer than the old MC. I am at a total loss for words on this. Why in the hell would the car go in and out of gear running in the air but not while on the ground?

I installed a new mc and sc, travel is the same, about 3/4" in the sc rod. I had a friend look at his z and the travel was the same on his working car. I put in a turbo throw out collar bearing. I guess I need to drop the trans and see what is going on.

No elongation of the clutch pedal hole. Nothing changed during the swap on the hydraulics side. Never removed the master or slave cylinder from their hoses. I'd like to know what the range of length is on a slave cylinder rod? I don't understand why the slave cylinder rod is so tight yet there isn't enough length with the clutch pedal in for the fork to compress the pressure plate. And I have the master cylinder clevis at the end of the rod.

I had some clutch issues before... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111283-clutch-fork-wont-move/?hl=collar&do=findComment&comment=1041276 After getting the correct 240mm/2+2/Turbo throw out bearing collar I cannot get the clutch to engage. I have my L28ET up and running, but can't drive it. Exedy Stage 1 Clutch 240mm Turbo collar Factory 77 5 speed. I have the adjustment clevis damn near backed all the way off the clutch master cylinder rod for the pedal to maximize stroke. Someone before me had made some homemade slave cylinder rod going to the clutch fork at some point. In my prior clutch problems I had cut this down in attempt to fix it. I now made new rod out of some Grade 8 bolt that is about the same length as the rod that worked fine in my car before the engine swap. With my father in law we both pushed in the clutch and watched the slave cylinder and it just doesn't seem to push the fork far enough to get the pressure plate to engage. I know I read before there should be a little slop in the rod when the clutch is disengaged, we don't even have this. The fork is very slightly under pressure even without the clutch engaged. The only way I can think to fix this is to make an even longer slave cylinder rod and forcibly have the fork under pressure at all time. That or go back to my longer N/A collar to give the slave cylinder a longer "throw". Any help would be great.

After throwing in the towel on my well documented cluster f*ck of a L28ET swap, I took my car to Awesome Z in Houston. With a little wiring they were able to get my car running. They supplied me with a Fuel Pump Control Modulator and said my ECCS was bad. I physically went to the shop and started my car on what Doug the owne called a "barely ok ECCS". The car need constant thottle to stay running, but nontheless ran. All I asked them to do was get the wiring correct and made sure the car started. They also had to replace the coil and ignitor. They also had their not so good ECU just laying on the floor when I started it, I thought the ECCS needed to be grounded. I had the car towed back to my house where I was under the impression that a good ECCS and taking care of some vacuum leaks would resolve my issues. I bought an ECCS off of a member who insisted the unit is good. I went to plug in my ECCS yesterday re attached my negative battery cable and got nothing. The fuel pump will not prime and the car won't even crank. Here is what I have tried so far. Cleaned negative battery cable where it is grounded to starter/block mounting hole. Removed ignition switch from tumbler and turned over with flathead screw driver. I popped off my fusible link covers and checked them, I am not sure what the hell could have happened in a course of 10 days sitting in my climate controlled garage, but I digress. The box closest to the front of the car had one link that was pretty corroded and was difficult to remove from the male spades. Are these links nothing more than wires with female spades? Should I even be concerned with this since nothing changed from the car starting at the shop? Is there anything out there in the aftermarket to resolve these 4 decade old troublesome links? Also the door buzzer intermittently works and then stops. The voltage gauge is at 12 volts, if I turn on the head light it kills the gauge. The needle will intermittently jiggle some too with the key out of the ignition. I have 12 volts at the battery and I also tested and got 12 volts at the starter. I am baffled how all these electrical issues could have developed from nothing more than a roll off wrecker ride back to my house and the car sitting in my garage for 10 days.

My 83 swap ecu shit the bed. I think a 1982 ECU will work, can anyone else clarify that? Prefer someone in Texas or close to save a little on shipping, but if you have one and the price is right that doesn't matter.

I didn't know 280zx's were carb'd nor that Nissan quality was so poor on carb'd vehicles that duplicating near oe quality would result in poor reliability.

Recently a 260z 2+2 was for sale it got me thinking about buying a Z for more daily use. Currently I use my 2001 Tacoma for my job which is in sales and I travel to San Antonio and Austin and other Texas locations with regularity. Its only getting about 16 mpg on the highway so I can justify buying a "classic" car as long as it is reliable and gets me better gas mileage. I feel a S30 or S130 fits the bill nicely. I feel our weather is decent enough to do this and if I use a 2+2 or S130 it might be less frowned upon for using one of these regularly as the seem to be less "valuble". I have been told that S130's are probably considerably more safe than S30's. I am not sure how much a S30 2+2 changes this if at all. So I would like any insight from anyone who has perhaps even been in a collision in one or the other, or both. Because this 260 2+2 was in my mind, my thoughts on that would have been a S130 drivetrain 3.90, 5 speed, P54 with N42 head and something along the lines of Z Therapy carbs, a little more cam than stock What kind of MPG could be expected with this? Would keeping a 3.54 help the MPG's on the highway considerably? What does a stock 81-83 S130 N/A get on the highway? I have seen reports of about 25mpg. Highway speeds are a little higher in Texas, I usally drive about 80-85 mph. If it were an S130 I would probably go N/A for simplicity and cost. Regardless of either car I'd probably want to be all in on the car at no more than $7K. $5500 would be even be better. I am not a large person and my 77 280z fits me fine, however I have never ridden in a S130, are they better "highway" cars for comfort? Being married with little ones I think the Mrs. would like at a S130 and think "safer" than any S30. Not to mention I myself want to be around to see my girls grow up. Thanks for any feedback.

You might be a redneck...

I don't have a fuel pump control module. Do I use the plug underneath the dash where it should plug in to wire another fuel pump relay? What purpose would the existing fuel pump relay serve at that point?

Need a fuel pump control module. Of course no one in any thread said grab it before you scrap the parts car so I don't have it and no one ever brought it up in the countless threads about wiring this piece of shit.