DCZ

Those SUs need a fuel pressure of 3 to 4 psi max. I'm not sure of the plumbing details but I think you run the return from the high pressure side of the regulator back to the tank - someone correct me if I'm wrong Clean up the carbs, set your floats at 9/16 inch from the float bowl cover, get some SM needles from ZTherapy, adjust your airflow/mixture and you should be set. I would not pay big $$ to Rebello to modify your carbs until you are sure they are a limiting factor, and on a stock engine they are unlikely to be the limiting factor. Also - do you have a cutoff switch for the electric fuel pump? Get either a pressure activated or inertia switch to cut the pump off in the event of a crash. Don't want to get crispy!!

71 240z, lime/yellow. See you there!

Yes, that is the plan. By next weekend you mean the 19th-20th, right? I would hate to show up on the wrong day This will be my second track day, I'm pretty psyched. All I plan to do is replace my brake fluid and tweak the carbs. No time to do anything else. I have already rigged up some brake ducts. Last time I warped my rotors. Will you be there? I would love to see a V8Z run.

What would you guys recommend for a street driven 240z with the occasional track day? 5.1 has wet/dry bp of 356/522 degF and 600 is 420/593 so obviously 600 is a bit higher but the Motul website talks about 5.1 being very stable for long lasting usage. As far as I can tell, both are compatible with DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid. Both are a synthetic but not silicone based. Any real world experience? Stock calipers, KVR carbon/metallic pads, BTW.

The info I have is 10AM - 4PM this sat 28th at 194 W. Forlines Rd in Winterville NC. The guy in charge is at this email dragon@greenvillenc.com Don't know if I'll be able to make it but if I do maybe we'll meet.

Hi Soul, Sorry to hear about the ditch - a COP'S no less! I looked at that car before you bought it and unless you worked on the suspension, I would doubt that the engine placement had anything to do with losing control. As I recall, it had no upgrades done to it at all. Ditto the brakes. Now is a good time to finish the conversion properly. Stiffer springs. Good strut cartridges. Poly bushings all around. Bigger front sway bar, maybe add a rear. Check the condition of the frame rails (rust!). Lots of options on brakes but definitely MUST do something to make them better. Search the archives on this site if you haven't already, there is a LOT of good info. Fix your suspension right and you won't believe you ever drove that car with the current setup! That is a sweet engine but it won't help you if the car won't go where you point it! BTW, there is a Z swap meet in Greenville this weekend - you might be able to score some parts there. I think there are details on www.trianglezclub.com in the events section. Good Luck!

My 71 is painted the stock Datsun 112 yellow and gets lots of looks/compliments. Very easy to pick out in a crowd. It is a lot more yellow than green, and a lot more green than yellow. Kind of a cross between these two guys: I don't know how to post a pic so I will email you one.

Foosball - I like! You could drill out the ZX knob as well, but I think the foosball is more in line with the Hybrid theme. If it is soft enough you won't even have to tap the hole - just screw it on a few turns at a time, then back off, then on, etc. It will cut its own threads. I did that with a duck head bottle opener I have. It worked and was good for a few laughs but was not really a comfortable shift handle so I replaced it with a small leather covered one.

Can you use a stock Z/ZX shifter knob? I have one you can have for the price of a beer - I'll even deliver!

I don't like that routing. Seems that the hose could chafe against the sway bar end link. You don't want the hose to be able to contact anything no matter how it might whip around. I haven't done this swap so I don't have a specific suggestion on what to do. I guess I would look into routing the hard line such that the hose would be aligned better. Good Luck!

After you smoke em off the line and they finally catch up at the next light, switch over to: Britney Spears - "Oops, I did it again" Sorry, j/k, her music makes me wanna Red Hot Chili Peps - Around the World Stevie Ray Vaughn - Little Wing (sorry, his version is better than Hendrix's) Stone Temple Pilots - Vaseline Wheezer - Hash Pipe The Pretenders - Bad Boys Get Spanked George Thorogood - Hot Rod Lincoln

I think your best option is to get a set of SUs and put them on. I had a holley 4bbl many years ago and knew nothing about carbs so I traded a guy some parts and he put SUs on mine. Much better and once I got the ZTherapy video I was able to tune/rebuild them myself. Keep an eye out on the buy/sell forum here, at zcar.com and 240z.org, etc, even eBay and you should be able to get a setup for $100 to $250. As long as the throttle shafts aren't worn out (vacuum leaks) they can be rebuilt for cheap. Good Luck!

The way you describe the problem does sound like a hydraulic problem with the right side. The only thing I can add is to check your left side t/c rod bushing and torque. Any play there will cause diving while braking.

Veeery EEEEnteresting on the rack bushings! I recently replaced the rubber ones on my 71 240 with some urethane I had in my parts bin and they were too narrow! The rack could shift left and right! I thought WTF and ordered new ones and they were better but still just a bit narrow! Maybe I have a 280 rack. Is there any other way to tell for sure?

Yes, that is the one SoulFly. I have no doubt that car hauls ass! Do yourself a favor and get some upgraded brakes and take care of the crinkled frame rails and rusty underbody so that you can continue to spank Mustangs for a long time! I passed on that car because I didn't want to get into the frame rail/rust repair thing. WAY TO GO!

I have the stock rotors and calipers on my 71 240z with the KVR carbon fiber pads that Ross C sells (Thanks Ross!). Stock drums/shoes on the rear. Stainless brake hoses. I am very happy with this setup for the street. I can modulate the brakes right at the point of lockup and the car stops RIGHT NOW, I can lift my ass off the seat no problem. I haven't been on the track yet with this setup (warped my last set of rotors at the track using cheep-o pads) but I plan on adding brake ducting for the track. My advice - unless you are going for a lot of track use, keep the stock stuff, make sure it is in good condition, and get some KVR pads.

Hey guys, lighten up. When you put Type R and Kanji stickers on a Grand Am, that makes it a HYBRID Grand Am!

I bought a set from Ross C. for my 71 240z with stock brakes. I haven't been on the track yet but they have been great so far for spirited street use. No squeal, no fade, consistent predictable stopping power.

Took a look at the car with the 283 yesterday, unfortunately it doesn't look so good. Rusty, bent frame rails, rust around all windows and rear hatch, Whole lotta bondo, hacked electrics, no brake/suspension/bracing work done, hanging exhaust, etc. The engine looked pretty good but the car was so bad I didn't investigate the seller's claims. Scarab kit installation w/ auto trans. He said it's a 283 with a Corvette cam, 10.5:1 compression, Mallory dual point distributor, Edelbrock alum intake and a holley carb (not sure which one). He fired it up and it sounded pretty good but I didn't drive it. Asking $2300. If anyone is interested I can email the phone #. Car is east of Raleigh NC. The search continues . . .

If you use a ZX fuel pump you will need an adjustable pressure regulator to get your fuel pressure down to ~4psi for carbs. Also, I think you will need a 240 or 260 intake, not a 280. I would suggest SU carbs - easy to setup and they work great as long as the throttle shafts are not worn. Another thing I suggest is some sort of fuel pump cutoff in the event of a crash. I have my fuel pump relay switched by an oil pressure switch. Write back if you need more details. btw I have a L28 with SUs in a 71 240 and I love it.

Hi Purds - What have you done to the 71 240 to outrun a 350 in a 280? Must be sweeeet!

John, Motorsport Auto and Nismoparts list "European" springs for the stock struts on a 240Z that supposedly are a bit stiffer and retain stock height. They have Stage I (101/112 lb/in F/R) and Stage II (122/140 lb/in) http://nismoparts.safeshopper.com/index.htm?482 I have read on other lists that these may be NLA - good luck and let us know if you find some and how you like them.

Wow, thanks all, that's good info. I know just enough about L6 engines to make a mess should I ever tear into one. I'm slowly dipping my toes into the V8 ocean. Hopefully, I can take a look at it this weekend and let y'all know what I find.

Going to look at a 240 with a 283 in it. My question - why would anyone put a 283 in a z when you can just as easily put in a 327, 350, 383 etc? The owner *claims* 355HP, which even I in my ignorance do not believe. Is this a poor choice of engine, or is it possible to get 300+ HP? What heads/cam/intake would it take to do this? Is the 283 substantially lighter than any other sbc? Should I run away and not look back? Lotsa questions, I know, but all answers/comments/opinions welcome.

Thanks Grumpyvette, Can't wait to see the look on the seller's face when I pull out the MM oil!