DCZ

The other advantage of using relays is that the switch on the steering column sees much lower current so you get better reliability there. That said, I have yet to do this mod on either of my Zs

I went there in 1986 and from what I have read the country seems to have gone downhill a lot (sorry) since then. There is a popular trek that leaves from Pokhara and follows the Khali Gantaki (sp?) gorge up to Muktinath and back. Lots of very scenic villages and interesting terrain changes from ~3k to 15k in elevation. Beautiful people. If you are there around Halloween there are some cool harvest festivals going on. I got drunk off my a$$ with some locals on some peach brandy in a town called Marpha. I think that may have also been where I contracted giardia If you go to the Everest region, try to fly into a place called Lukla. Wild bumpy grass airstrip that is something like 60m higher at one end of the runway than the other. You land uphill and take off downhill. Once you get to the high mountain region, Everest is just "another mountain" because the scenery is breathtaking. We were close to Base Camp but didn't bother going there because we were told there is really nothing special to see there (except a lot of trash left by climbers) that you don't already experience. It was a great trip and one I will always remember. Oh yeah, if you see any large turd pyramids, it was my brother

OK Thanks guys. Think I'll stick with my stock manifold for now.

Pace Setter? Yuk! Everything I've read about those has been bad. That's why I'm trying to figure out what this one is. I found a pic that "sorta" looks like this one and is identified as a "Nismo" which I have read is a good quality header. I've also read (Motorsport) that you can't use the stock gasket with their "competition" header, so that's why I asked about the gasket. I usually destroy any gasket I try to remove

This looks like one of the headers that MSA sells but I can't get a positive ID from searching here. Anyone know which one it is? Is this a NISMO part? Anyone have experience with this part? Do you think I would get any performance gain on an otherwise stock F54/P79/SU motor? Can you use the stock Nissan gasket with this part? And the BIG question - What would YOU pay for this part?

Death of a Thousand Smells!

I don't have the answer for you but I can tell you this: Pumping the gas pedal does nothing other than opening and closing the throttle valve. There is no "choke" or fuel enrichment due to pumping the pedal. You need 3 things: air, fuel, spark. (OK, timing, but that is not really a "thing" Verify that you have all three. Your symptoms can be caused by a weak spark, too little fuel or too much fuel, or a really clogged air filter. Try pulling a spark plug when you are having trouble starting and see if it is coated with fuel. Connect the plug to the plug wire and rest it on your valve cover and see if you have a good spark while cranking. Also clean every single electrical connector under the hood. Corrosion / crud buildup can really cause havoc. Good Luck!

Which FMU do you have? Do you like it? I've been researching MS because it seems like you get SOOO much capability for little $. Plus I like to inhale solder fumes. 270rwhp and 300ft-lbs - mmmmmmmm I still get giddy when I "mash the gas" but I'm starting to get used to it so . . .

KTM, Yes, unhooked the vac line to the FPR. It's hard to see on the crappy scan but the red pull is the one when we unhooked the line. AFR ~13 but then dropping like you mentioned. I have no idea why the AFR would drop under boost and I can only take the dyno shop's word that the AFR is measured correctly. Quote: Here is a good link that describes a similar setup as yours and similar results: Ha ha, you would link to one of bastaads posts - he has to have the longest posts here and the subject always meanders all over the place! Good info though.

Cygnus, I'll check on that. I'm sure I didn't take anything out but you never know if it was in there to begin with. After the dyno runs (why do I always think of these things AFTER!) I thought about pulling the air filter to rule out an air restriction, given the rich fuel mixtures. Mario, plug gap was set at whatever the FSM says, I think maybe 0.044 inch? Easy enough to check and maybe try a little less gap - do you have a recommendation? I'm thinking this is probably electrical in nature, due to the way it "just dies" at 5k rpm. It has a light-throttle, off-idle miss that is annoying, but once you get on the throttle it pulls great with no hiccups until 5k rpm. I've read a lot in the archives about the "crappy ECCS" and my electrical connections, though clean, are not all new and perfect. MS is definitely in the future but I would love to get it running as well as I can right now.

Finally got on the dyno with my 73 240zt. Specs: 83 stock engine/drivetrain w/134k miles, BWT5, 7psi boost, stock ECCS, 2.5 dp/exhaust The Good: 181 RWHP, 212 TQ No fuel starvation - probably a bit rich in fact Nice flat wide torque curve The Bad: Engine falls on its face at 5K rpm. Dyno operator told me I "must have a rev limiter" but I assured him that is not the case. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor all are 6 months/5k miles old. I didn't think about unplugging/plugging the ECCS connectors until after the testing. All electrical connections are "clean" but many of the connectors are old so I can't discount some sort of connection problem. My batt. cable is grounded to the chassis like stock and I think the ignitor has a good ground. Fuel pressure was steady at just under 40psi at idle and rising with boost. In fact, the run with the higher hp was the one that we unhooked the FPR. Idle vacuum at 20 inHg. AFM passes ohm meter tests in FSM. Anyone got any suggestions as to the cause of the 5k blues? Here is a jpg of the dyno output

The oil pressure, water temperature and fuel level guages are basically ohm meters. Get a variable resistor (potentiometer) and connect that between ground and the sender input on the guage. Figure out which wires on the guage are +12V and Ground and hook them up. Resistor values of the various senders should be somewhere in the FSM so you should be able to tell how well the guages are calibrated. If you ground the sender input instead of using a resistor, most if not all of these guages should go full scale. *Disclaimer* I have not done this but that is how I would approach it.

The marks on the chain and the gears won't line up every revolution, so what you are seeing is normal.

quote: lets just say I want to build it 70s style hybrid, keeping it with technology that was used when the car was first shipped to us here in the US. Hi Chris, Not trying to put down your goals for your car, but as a fellow "minimal hybridizer" I urge you to DITCH THOSE POINTS! LOL! You can get them perfectly adjusted and they won't stay that way for long. I have a GM HEI in my '71 and would never go back.

I used a 75 fuel tank in my 73zt and ran a new 3/8 supply line and used the stock supply as the return. I get fuel starvation at or before the 1/4 tank level. I don't why I have this problem (holes in the pickup tube?), but I had the tank boiled and sealed at a local radiator shop before installation. I am probably going to upgrade my system to use a surge tank for added reliability and (hopefully) to use more of my tank capacity.

I agree with Vinh on this one. If the engine has good compression, good turbo and you can swap it without having to rebuild it then $500 would be a bargain. ESPECIALLY if it has the 5 speed (assuming you want the manual tranny). I got very lucky and bought my complete turbo parts car for $200. I used the engine, trans, rear end, cv shafts, ECCU, fuel pump, wheels, and a bunch of little pieces. I would have come out happy even if I had paid $1000 for it. I don't know the availability of these cars in your area but I think it would be foolish to wait a year or more to save $500. Once you get into the swap you will be happy to spend that $500 to make things easier and faster. I say go for it - you won't be sorry!

Hi Dr Hunt, Sorry I don't have any other info - that is just a local ad. Probably run in a Mustang, I would guess. Is 7.50 particularly fast for a 1/8 mile run? I know nothing about drag racing other than it looks like a lot of fun!

John I know this is the Chevy forum but look what is on our local craigslist: ford mustang dss racing motor for sale - $3000 this is a 306 motor with very little miles on it this is a proven motor on the street and the track.dss racing built the short block it is 9:5:1 compression with eldebrock aluminum heads,forged pistons,comp cam 565 lift,roller rockers,eldebrock intake eveything was bought new to build this motor,the best of everything has run 7.50 off motor in the eight mile very streetable and dependable,intake to oil pan, just add your carburator have a awsome motor cant build for this price 3,ooo obo can hear run still in car Have you driven a Ford lately? LOL!

I don't have an answer for you but my 83 L28et swap into my 73 240z does the same thing. My 240 engine always ran at over half way on the gauge (on the 'M'). After I did the swap, the needle was always on the 'T' or between 'T' and 'E'. I swapped sensors, same thing. I put in a brand new thermostat (180 or 185*, I forget) and the needle is just a bit higher. Stock 73 radiator, fan and clutch. I need to measure the actual temperature but my car never seems to get hot, even when I run it hard! Strange!?!