Mack

I suddenly want a P65 intake manifold. looks like you can unbolt the curved runners to get to the rest of it and HOG IT OUT??? run a bit larger of a TB combo and BAM! performance AND mpg!!!!

if you are taking off a bit off the top of the piston, wont that make the compression ratio even worse? or are you going to run a longer rod? I thing that would be ideal, a longer rod with a flatter piston. If you are worried about compression ratio, unshroud the valves out to the 89MM firing ring. that will open up a CC or two......

this kit of coilovers for the S13 is why I want S13 suspension on my S130. cheap, 32 levels of dampening, and QUALITY. look at what you get for only $850, brand spanking new.

you might want to search fopr R33 front suspension stuff. the R33 and S14 have a lot in common, crossmember wise, and the R33 uyses a wishbone type set-up similar to the 300ZX Z32s. BleachZee>>>>> I talked to a guy at length that was into triling arm swapping. he had a 510 with a pretty built VG30ET. from what I remember, he had 300ZX, M30 and 280ZX trailing arms laying about. said they would all bolt into a 510. so, i would assume they are all semi-interchangeable. 5 lug would be nice. If I could use Z31 rear arms and get 240SX fronts, I think Id be in business. buuuuuuut..... I just picked up some MSW black mesh wheels last year, and they are 4 lug and OOOOOOooohhhh so sweet. cant give them up just yet.

actually, the P90 and P79 have the same size combustion chamber. the only difference is the P90 has square exhaust ports and the P79 has round, linered exhaust ports. If I were you, I would find some more suitable pistons for this project. or find some 135MM rods, I think they came in some sort of L series engine in aus and japland. that -2mm deck height is going to KILL you when it comes to quench. that negates ANY qunch you will have from a P90 or P79 head.

Im pretty sure the S14 is not a double wishbone suspension, at least not up front. only in the rear. It will allow a ton of brake options tho.

yeah, thats $1300 for acoilover set-up. about what Teins top of the line goes for. I realize it would be bolt on and all, but then you'd still be lacking the big brakes. plus, you can get decent S13 set-ups (coilovers) for like, $800 new on Ebay. I still think Im going to go ahead with this hybridization of suspension parts. should be a fun project if nothing else!

I dunno, it was a scale that was certified at a scrap metal yard. it weighed to the nearest 20lbs. 280ZX's weigh about the same and sometimes less than their 280Z counterparts. I wonder how much I could get mine down to by removing the air con, heavy bumpers and maybe a fibre glass hood. Mine is also a slick top, no T's here. that probably makes a bit of a difference. the only 240SX's Ive seen in the 2500lbs range were strippers with power nothing, and most were coupes. the hatches tend to weigh a bit more, like I think 70lbs. EDIT: just searched zhome.com for 280ZX specs. LISTED curb weight of 2825 on most models. they ran a turbo car thru the 1/4, and if you input a weight of 2825 and their results (15.3 and 89mph) into a 1/4 mile HP calculator, it spits out about 155hp. if you put in 3000lbs for weight (car + driver) it spits out 166hp. we know stock turbo cars lay down about 150 or there abouts HP. also, they had a 79 280ZX with a listed curb weight of 2970lbs, and they got 17.0 and 82mph, plug all that in and it spits out 119HP (time) and 125hp (speed), that falls RIGHT in line with most stock L28E dynos. put in 3140 (car + driver again) and it spits out 126 (time) and 140 (speed). aint no way an L28E stock is making 140 to the ground. save for Tony D's. thats another story.

sorry, NZeder, the M30 is an infiniti stateside. I think you kiwis would know it better as a nissan Leopard. cant remember the chassis code, but I think its F31. for the price of the rears, i can get a whole set of used tein S13 coilovers.

a 280ZX doesnt weigh that much more than a 240SX. its a common myth. My 280ZX 2 + 2 with power steering, windows, tools, spare tire, spare head (junkyard trip) and me in it (180LBS) wieghed in at 2960. take me out of it, take the head out of it (50lbs) and the tools (30lbs) and the wieght of the car is about 2700lbs. then start taking the spare tire, jack, power steering pump, add a header instead of the cast exhaust manifold and a few other things, and it doesnt weigh that much at all. and this is the 4 seater i have!!! I kow of ONE guy that got his 240SX down to like, 2450, with out him in it. If you had a 280ZX 2 seater and stripped EVERYTHING like he did, you could probably do it too. 280ZX's done make good drift cars because the rear suspension isnt set up for that kind of abuse. how many BMW drift cars do you see? not that many, same rear suspension design. rear trailing arm. EDIT: why is this in the 4 cylinder forum?

go to teh brakes/tires/suspension forum, we are actually having a discussion about coilovers and 280ZX's right now. as far as the carbon fibre hoods, I dont think anyone makes them. maybe fibre glass, but I have never seen one of those either. the S130 doesnt have NEARLY the aftermarket following as the S30 does. sorry, man!

so, the M30 is closer to the 300ZX than it is to the 280ZX? I have seen M30 and S130 in the yard, side by side with the rear tires off and the cars on rims, and they looked like a carbon copy. maybe its because the 300ZX has the seperate coil/shock and the 280ZX/M30 has teh strut in the back that makes it look soooo similar? Ive heard rumors that 300ZX and 280ZX rear control arms are interchangeable, is that true?

I had a 240Z that was poorly tuned with a set of 40MM running an N42/N47 set-up. no cam that I could tell... anyway, the car was fast and had plenty of snort. It would get up and haul *** with the best of them. It could cook tires in a few gears. It did have a fiar bit more HP than a stock N42/N47 would. Ive had a few of those as well. I know the 240Z body is lighter than the 280Z body, but Ive driven other swapped L28 cars and i can tell you 40MM's made a difference. these were DCOE18's sitting on a cannon straight loing runner manifold.

Ive got a 1980 280ZX and I am looking into doing some suspension swapping on it, just thought Id get a general concensus on the whole thing before I jump head long into this.... Ive been doing some research on various coilover set-ups for 280ZX's (which there are NONE) and I was led to the Infinti M30. it has an almost exact copy of the rear suspension on the 280ZX. the major differences being the CV axel flange on the hubs and the wheel offset. anyway, the M30 has an almost carbon copy front suspension from the Z31 300ZX. the Z31 shares a LOT in common with the 280ZX, front suspension wise (or at least it LOOKS a helluva lot like it) and i know he Z31 is almost the exact same as the S12 (1984 to 1988 200SX), and people have put the SE V6 SX front struts on 280ZX's to get the big brakes. anyway, Im thinking M30 rear control arms with a J30 VLSD stuffed into the M30 long nose 4 pinion R200 (another thread) along with M30/j30 hybrid CV axles and then snagging the entire front suspension (lower control arms, TC rods, hubs, struts) from an S13. then Id have a +25MM offset all the way around (allowing my MSW 15x7 +15 meshies NOT to rub) with the option of using S13 coilovers in the near future because M30 guys run this all teh time, only takes VERY minor modification to run S13 coilovers front and back. ....... BTW, a used set of Teins for S13s with 16 way adjustables can be had for anywhere from $600 to $900, with EVERYTHING. ALSO, a popular brake upgrade in the S13 crowd is J30 calipers (4 pot) with altima discs (11", vented) so, Id be able to BOLT that on as well.

5foot2>>>>> I will know in about 3 weeks. I would assume that it will work. the only problem is that you will need the VLSD specific input shafts (diff half of the CV) I am thinking that with the long nose and short nose being the same ratio, and being close in the year made and all. they should have the same number of bolts on the carrier/ring gear, and they should be the same size. IIRC, nissan changed the bolt sizes in what, 1987? The only other concern is will the diff side CV cups be compatible with the rest of the CV axel from the M30? I would think so. that being said, I will be using a lot of M30 suspension parts. mainly the rear control arms/hubs/brakes, CV axels and differential housing. the reason being the brakes are better on the M30 rear (I have a 1980 280ZX with the crap calipers)

although I feel bad because the set-up I have in mind is not nearly as involved. basically, i was thinking of attaching (weld?) some heat sink fins (a lot) to the bottom of the diff and build an airscoop about an inch off the bootom of the diff, but make it wider. maybe put a door on it so I can shut it on long road trips, kind of like the series 1 doors on the aircleaners. it would operate kind of like a diffuser, where it would grab air off the bottom of the car and maybe I could work out a way to spit it out somewhere useful. although, the 280ZX does nothave NEAR the aerodynamic problems as the 1st gens. This will not be a road race car, just the occasional jaunt around the autocross track, maybe se some extended amounts of race time at MSA! I dont need to keep it super cool, just something to help dissapate some of the heat that builds up. maybe put a small fan under there for inbetween runs.

that Im still going to go with this plan. this will not be an everyday track car, just the occasional autocross and spirited bit of driving. may make a rudimentary diff cooler while Im at it tho..... heat is what kills (and makes them work!) viscous LSD's.

The M30 diff is a long nose R200 with an ABS sensor in the snout. It has a 47/12 gear set and 4 pinion gears. pretty beefy. the J30 is a short nose R200 (also 47/12) with a viscous coupling LSD unit. it comes in 5 bolt and 6 bolt (3 groups of 2) flavors. some have the ABS sensor in the snout, some have them on the halfshafts. these are usually good canidates if you are looking for an R200 viscous, because they havent all been beat to ****. no one drifts a 4 door luxo liner, lol!

waitaminute... so turbo manifolds DO actually have larger runners? I thougth tis was a nasty myth circulation around the internet for quite some years now. Man, I wish you people would make up your minds! I've got a few turbo intakes laying around, is it a year casting difference? Im very curious.....

o.k. so I was fiddling around in my head with a long list of parts and what will swap and what wont and I came up with this.... taking a J30 VLSD, gutting the carrier out of it, and putting it in an M30 long nose housing. then, using the J30 input shafts and making a hybridized CV shaft utilizing the M30 shafts and putting the M30 rear control arms on my 280ZX (exact same design, just better brakes and the ability to run positive offset rims) now I kn ow a VLSD is not nearly as good as a clutch type or a torsen, but this could be done with very readily available U-Pull-It parts, probably all for under $100, at least at the places where I buy parts. I know some of the guys, and they usually cut me deals, and Im sick of trying to track down the 300ZXT CLSD for the past few years, only to find ones in the $500 price range. when, for only a few more hundred dollars, I could just get a new one. comments? ideas?

yup. the longer you stay on this website, the more prone to bad suggestive thinking you become ("while Im in there......") see: 1.5KA24DE head idea and almost finished product. How much money does yur boss have into his SBC with the procharger on it? you think thats not complicated? just get a set of forgies for the L, ported head, lonewolf manifold, HKS headgasket, an HX35 turbo, some 510cc injectors and a megasquirt. done. after that, GOING in a straight line will be the hard bit.

If you have your heat sheilding in place, I would say it really doesnt make a craps worth of difference. the cooling fan that you speak of is actually for the injectors.

I think you will be happy with the DET, from what I have read, those things are tanks (in a good way) ball bearing turbo on some models, long block is capable of supporting 500RWHP. Plus, I saw a side by side pic comparing the DET heads to the DETT heads and the DET intake ports DWARFED the DETT ports.

as they say. pretty shiney things!!! it obviously is a show car, otherwise he would have a different intake! now onto the threadjacking.... I used a set of those rotary plugs for a while. the ones without any ground electrodes. felt a lil snappier at low RPM's, and at times, it seemed like I would pick up 1 or 2 MPG (I deliver pizza, so Im ALWAYS keeping track of my MPG's) this is so redneck of me, but I jacked them out of junkyard RX7's. then i thought well, Ill see how they are branad new, and I found out they cost like, $8 a plug. maybe when I get some more cash influx. and access to a dyno. plus, they threaded a lil further down into the combustion chamber, protruding a bit further out. dont know if it was good or bad..... I hve pics laying around somewhere.... talk about a cheap way to up your compression!!!! the last thing I needed on my MN47/flattop set up.

98 eqyuates to about 93 stateside and there is at least one person on this board running megasquirt on hot NA engines with compression ratio stretching into the high 11's (maybe low 12's, cant recall) and it runs fine. Ive driven it. this being said, you do have to know how to trune yoru car, or take it to a reputable dyno -tune shop and have them work it out. If all the MOT will be looking for is the addition of a turbo kit, then I would suggest at least buying a better aftermarket intake manifold. the ones on our cars are pretty restrictive, especially when you start chasing upwards of about 175rwhp. I would suggest an aftermarket intake (lonewolfperformance.com), megasquirt, turbo injectors, some more compression than you have now, and a camshaft. nothing too wild or crazy, just somthing a step or 2 from what you have now. maybe a 270*/.460lift. oh, and of course a header witha 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust. Maybe have your head proted. depending on how much you have to spend. on the octane... well, Im not going to whore this guys thread out anymore, but i will say that sulphur produces more pollution, and more byproducts of combustion. as well as more ash (read:more deposits) a cleaner running engine will be more resistant to detonation. less carbon build up, less chance of detonation. less crap to get in the way of the burn process, is always better for the engine AND performance.