Mack

Ill have to delve into this more on the MSEFI site. although, their search engine sucks. wont let you narrow it down to a particular forum. I was reading on the EDIS set-up and it seems as though it converts teh wave pattern of the VR into a square patter much like that of an optical pick-up. I wonder if there is a way to bypass the wave pattern part and feed the square directly in. Im just looking to skirt the whole issue of machining my crank dampner for a 36-1 wheel.

hrmm, lemme explain it a little better... I have the optical distributor off of an 83 280ZXT and I was talking about covering all of the slits not necessary on the 360 tooth side of the "chopper wheel" . If you crack open a 280ZXT dist. you will find that there are actuallly 2 optical pickups, one with 6 slits and one with 360 slits. When wiring up MS&S_E as per Mobys instructions, you only use the wheel with 6 slits. thats why there is one un-used wire coming out of the dizzy. I was thinking of using paint to fill in 288 of the 360 slits to simulate a 36-1 wheel running at half engine speed. It wouldnt be using a hall effect sensor, but the wheel in the optical dist.. would now simulate teh output of a 36-1.

would it be possible for me to make a 36-1 wheel out of the 360 slit chopper wheel in my distributor? or, I guess it would have to be a 72 - 2 wheel, right? what Im thinking is using paint or something to fill in all the holes I dont need on the 360 tooth wheel... is this feasible or am I just crazy?

lol, yeah. but, i had all the parts available to me on various heads laying around the garage. it is quite a bump from the stock L24E cam, which was 240 on both sides. remember Im running an MN47 head. I am looking for a regrind right now. probably something on the order of 270/270 and about .470 lift. gotta keep the efi happy. no alpha N for me.

I am running v3 with the q2 code and running ignition through a E1280, using a 280ZXT distributor. wired it like the wiring diagram on the DIY site. I've probably put close to 3K on it and it performs flawlessly. I got 25mpg pulling a trailer at about 75 to 80mph on a 1800 mile cross country trip. I think my ignition module took a dump tho. wont rev over 4K. did the same thing with a completely stock 1980 EFI set up and the ignition module crapped out, limiting revs to 4k. I already burned out my VB921 running too much duty cycle, so I think Im just going to go with the HEI module option. anyone ever figure out what dwell/duty cycle settings I should have been using with the VB921 directly controlling 1 coil with the 83 CAS dizzy??

its easy. I put one in my MN47 head. it is marginal, but depnding on whose specs you go by or which year of which motor, your stock cam could have as little as 240 degrees, while a 260Z cam has 256 degrees. so, it could be quite a bump from a "stock" cam. all you have to do is swap towers and use the tap method. pretty easy. been running in my car for probably 25K with no problems.

just found out some info.... For the E12-80, duty cycle has to be set for 75%, or it will not work. I tried it on "minimum for HEI" and it sputtered from 2000 to 3000rpm. then, I set it on 50% and it ran o.k., but felt like it lacked power and had a LOT of advance at idle. I put a timing light on it and it had 30 degrees at idle and timing would retard to 10 degrees at full advance!!!! so, I set it to 75% and now, I have my 10 degrees at idle and a full 35 degrees where its supposed to be. I've probably put about 100 miles on it at 75% and no signs of burning out. Its operating just as it should. now, even for NA guys, fuel and spark should be no problem.

do you have teh code set to staged injection? Did you build the unit yoruself? could be a problem on the board with one of the injector drivers.

fixed duty and a 75% duty cycle. thats probably what did it, eh? what should I be running for the nissan E12-80? this is still a learning experience for me, not TOO costly yet, lol

well, I found out what was causing my problems. The VB921 must have gone south at some point and then finally crapped out last night and wouldnt even fire the coil. In a fit of rage and desparation, I combed through all the install stuff regarding the GM HEI 4 pin installation. I had a few stock nissan E12-80's laying around and I thought Id give it a whirl. Basically, I kept the stock plug and wiring on top, then I connected pin30 (FIDLE) to where the red wire goes off of the VR under the cap and I connected a wire to ground where the green wire coming off the VR goes under the cap. I have it mounted on the intake manifold for now, because I am running a turbo dist. But, I drove it about 15 miles so far and no hiccups. runs smooth as silk. just an FYI. this should allow people with stock set-ups completely stock FI set-ups to gain ignition control without ANY problems. as long as they have an E12-80. and oh yeah, the tach still works.

I've done what you are talking about. It sucks. dont do it. oh, and btw, Im pretty sure that trucks didnt get the KA24DE until 98 and later. 1992 hardbody pickup engine replacement with S13 KA24E. You'd think its the same motor right? wrong. hrmm, had to make 2 inch spacer for oil pan to clear girdle (truck engine doesnt have girdle), re-drill 2 engine bolts because engine is 3/4" shorter, lots and lots of other ****. PLUS! I did it without pulling the T-case or transmission. never again. I would go into detail, but it would turn into one of those 40 line posts and no one would know what Im talking about in the end anyway.

alright, I had a slight rich hiccup that would cause my car to stumble while running, idling, accelerating, whatever. it would just stumble. but it would run, idle and accelerate. that was with 029k. I "upgraded" to 029q2, since that was considered to be the most stable code now. Well, it went from bad to way worse. Now my car wont idle once its done with the ASE. The closer it gets to the end of the ASE cycle, the RPM's start to fluctuate, then as it progresses, the engine starts to surge wildly, then it finally quits. According to the narrow band, when it starts to pull this crap, its running extremely lean. Now, I have adjusted the idle bins in increasing amounts to double what they were set at before and it has NO affect on this behavior. I can hold the engine RPM;s at 1,800+ and its fine. It seems as long as its past the first 2.5 rpm (starts at 500, then 100, then 1600) idle bins its alright. but if it drops, it really starts to suck. any help here guys? If I cant get this figured out, Im gonna go to 024s9 code, as 1 fast Z has been running that for quite a while without any hiccups. If anyone has any ideas, lemme know. I can Email you my .msq and a datalog.

Just run a hose loop from the PS out to the PS in and keep a little fluid in it for lubrication purposes. Although, when I put a KA24DE in an 89 coupe and didnt have the PS lines, I just drained the pump and left the hoses disconnected. I put probably close to 5000 miles on that and the pump never locked up or made ANY funny noises.

someone tell JeffP!

yes yes. megasquirt is the way to go! I just got mine running and its pretty cool. few bugts to be worked out, and tuning should be fun, but its driveable now. I think there are a few guys on MSEFI.com running megasquirt on their SR20DETs. I know over on nicoclub.com there is a complete write up to put one on a CA18DET. the SR's and CA's are close, as far as sensors and triggers and what not, right?

checked it. turned out to be a bad ground. DOH! cleaned it with a wire brush and got a reading. thanks!

well, that didnt last long. I have 5V getting to the TPS, and the signal line is clear from the DB37 to the TPS pigtail. every time I go to calibrate the TPS, I get a 254 ADC, whether its open, closed or somewhere inbetween. I know the TPS is good and the wiring is good. I can put a potentiometer on the DB37 on pins 22 and 26 and watch the resistance change as I push the gas pedal. Hell, I can even do it while Im trying to calibrate it. so, I know its getting power, the TPS is good and I even went as far as to pull the MS out and put it back on the stim to make sure nothing fried. operates just fine on the stim. TPS signal calibrates as it should. anyone got any ideas???

280ZXT wiring I have it wired up just like it is shown on this page. except when I started it initially, I had the positive side of the coil going right to the positive side of the battery. its just temporary to make sure it works tho. THe positive side of the coil is getting wired to the fuel pump relay. EDIT: to be a little more clear..... the wiring problem I had at first was on the harness side, not the distributor side. ALso, this is a question for anyone else out there who can answer.... Im using a Z31 chopper wheel, you know, the one with one window bigger than the rest... will this affect anything? It felt a little lumpy, but I think I may have fouled out a plug trying to start it when I had no power going to the CAS and the injector light was stuck on. smelled a bit like gas......

hey all..... I just got my MS&S_E up and running on my 1980 280ZX. I have a 260Z camshaft (256* as opposed to 248 or even 240 for some ZX's), 60mm TB, 2.5" exhaust, mildly ported maxima N47 head giving me about 11.4:1 compression. (soon to be running a fully ported MN47 and 40MM ITB set-up). I installed a 280ZXT distributor on my car to run the Spark portion. excellent write ups by Moby and Lost Soul on the DIY auto tune site. Im using the VB921 to control the coil directly from my V3.0 board, which I built myself. I modified a 1982 280ZX harness to work with all the stock relays and fusible links and all of the stock plugs. Im using the AFM wires for the ignition control, since I dont need that anymore! LOL!!!! that took a LOT of time with a crappy wiring diagram and a multimeter. I am using Gavins map (L28E STOCK) as of right now, except I modified it to fit the 12x12 tables. Im using the spark map that came loaded in MS&S_E for right now, just to get it running. Max advance is set to 34*. It was enough to fire it up and keep it running with light feathering on the gas. My IAT and O2 sensors seem dead. should the O2 be working right from the get go, or does it have to warm up first? IAT is probably just dead dead. I had a slight problem at first. crank and no fire and the injector light was staying on. rechecked the wiring to the CAS dist and found that I wired a light green wire with a white stripe where a light green wire with a light yalloy stripe should have gone. basically, there was no power going to the CAS. rewired that and fired RIGHT up! now begins the tuning..... oh joy!!!

THANKS! I am using a spare N/A wiring harness and I am going MS&S_E on my NA car. Im using the AFM wires for the dist and ignition wires, since I wont need them anymore, lol! It just clipped the plug off of the ECU end and soldered the appropiate wires to the appropiate places on the DB37 connector. also, the stock wiring powers all the injectors on a seperate hot wire coming from the FI relay and the stock ECU just grounds them, so I kept the injector power seperate from the ECU power. shouldnt be a problem, eh?

yeah, been busy with other things. 1 fast Z has been busy with his head proting business. and its hard to get timne to work on it since I moved back to minenapolis. It will get finished, one way or another. Im not going to let this one go.

so, Im looking at the wiring diagrams and how to wire it to my V3.0 board and I noticed that my wire colors dont match those on either of the diagrams (lost souls on the DIY site or Mobys excellent sticky) I have white, green, red, and black wires. if i hold the dist in my hand, with the rotor pointing away from me and the plug facing up, the green wire is above the white wire on the left and the red wire is above the black on the right. can anyone help thanks in advance!!

makes sense. what RPM do you start boosting at? I didnt really notice the 15:1 at the beginning of the HP curve. kinda hard to read sideways, lol! yeah, richening that up would probably help. A lot of dyno charts I see have the A/F somehwere in the high 10's low 11's, that is just overkill, imho.

I would say those are pretty damn good! stock is what, 150rwhp @ 6psi? so, you gained about 110rwhp by jumping 5psi! with all the other supporting mods, of course..... and I like your A/F curves! most people go super rich, but you kept it right in the 12's for most of the powerband! didnt get pig rich until the end. great numbers! excellent set-up!

you know, for as heavy as the LD28 rods look, they only weigh about 80 grams (each) more than L28 rods. not THAT bad. that was done on a shadow scale thingamabob. supposed to be very accurate. at first we thought it was 100 grams! but then realised that the bearings were still in the LD rods and not the L28 rods, lol! You could make up that difference by lightening up the pistons. Ask 1 fast Z how much lighter you can make pistons. I think he took out almost 2 pounds from a total of 6 pistons. and that was going from standard flat tops to an 89mm bore as well. oh yeah, one more thing..... the LD28 rods have a 25mm pin. so, yeah, you'll have to figure something out there...... Id suggest going through KB silvolites web catalogue and search by diameter and look at the pin sizes, you never know there might be something out there for a stock motor that may fit your application.....