Mack

more fuel pressure is a bandaid fix. the real cure is bigger injectors, but then your low RPM performance suffers because of crappy spray patterns and what not. a lot of stock EFI systems have sequential injection at anything under 3000RPMS, or around town cruising, and once they hit 3000rpms they switch over to batch, because sequential has no real effect (or a VERY VERY minor one) on ultimate HP, which usually takes place high in the RPM band. where sequential has a real effect is on low RPM mileage, emissions and torque.

Yes, megasquirt is MAP sensor based, meaning it doesnt need an AFM nor a MAF. If the guy at the MOT wouldnt notice the difference, just scrap the AFM all together. although, I thought you were concerned about making it look stock. You could also put a cold air intake on it and just have a tube going from your TB to a K&N filter located in front of the radiator. I think that would be best, as it would make it stock appearing. oh and yeah, about the whole european octane, I thought they also had much cleaner (more refined) gasoline than ours. which I would think would make it more detonation resistant. its the reason they can run Direct Injection in thier cars, correct? not as much sulfur content?

Ive been looking into megasquirt for a while now as well. I think I will finally take teh plunge and buy a V3 board at the end of the month. The stock ECU sucks big time. ditch it. the actual ECU bit is very limited and will go on a linear fuel/rpm curve after 3500RPM under WOT. IF you want to keep it stock LOOKING, here is what you should do.... have the intake extrude honed and have your head ported. get a set of turbo injectors and a megasquirt. the turbo injectors should be enough fuel for ANY street driven L series NA motor. then, if you wanted to keep it stock LOOKIING, get a turbo AFM and remove all the guts, the flap all of it. maybe a bmw AFM would be bigger and still look stock? but yes, a cam a 60MM TB and all that good stuff and you should be well on your way. oh yeah, maybe look into a Maxima N47 head. I dont know what they were called in Europe, but over here we have a RWD sedan powered by the L24E engine. the head had 39cc chambers and makes for about 11.5:1 compression on a flat top ZX block. From what I hear about fuel in europe and high octane content, that compression number shouldnt be a problem. anyway....... as far as electronics go, you cant really go wrong with megasquirt. then you can sell your RRFPR to someone else and recoup some of the initial investment!

actually, its more like 3/4" higher deck height. I *think* the LD28 has a deck height of 227.5mm, where as our L28's have a 207.9 deck height. The LD28 has teh EXACT same deck height as an L20B 4 cylinder. 3/4" might make adifference, but I doubt it.

I figured there was some sort of heavy *** modification involved, or maybe a 2MM overbore and some of our "special rods or something, with an offset grind, HA ha! How much did it run you to get it sleeved? I've always been curious about this. I've got a shortblock LD28 sitting around as well as an L20B front cover. just itching to be used.

waitaminute.... are you implying that you are using the LD28 BLOCK as well as the crank? just VERY curious,. as someone on this board swears they arent god for much more than a 2mm obvverbore..... NIce vid at any rate! should be a real screamer!

I have nothing further to add, other than "yeah, stick a magnet on it" I guess it all depends on the alloy though, doesnt it? although, from what I recall, usually ther isnt enough ferrous metals in commercially available Ti alloys to make it magnetic. then agian, depending on the SS alloy, THAT could also be non-magnetic. meh, is the head on a block? or is it just a head? if its just a head, pulling a valve is reaally not that had, but you knew that. p.s. movie quote for movie quote... I quite often find myself asking "Where DOES he get those wonderful TOYS?"

Ill have to go dig around in NICOclub.com, a few there were telling me about it... OH! wait!!!!!!! there is a guy named mattback that was telling me about it. he was putting VG30ET's in 240SX's and he was researching the VG30DET as an alternative. Ill dig through my emails and see if he gave me any more information other than "certain cedric blocks" lol also, wasnt there an 84 300zx in the 8's running a VG30ET? I seem to recall he was in peurto rico or something..... and it was red. could have even been 7's, not sure. strong motor for sure.

yeah, it was a 48 state only car. calif got all the pollution junk very early on. interestingly enough, I have one for sale. in great shape. bare bones intake. I also have a 60MM 240SX TB. PM me with an offer, and I know what they go for so please, dont low ball me. Im reasonable, but Im not crazy or stupid.

I heard a nasty rumor that some cedric motors (VG30DET's) had extra thick cylinder wall castings and could be bored to VG33 sizes. I wonder if theres any validity to this? I knwo it doesnt answer your question, but it is food for thought.

well, Ill answer for him, since Ive ridden in it and even driven it! it runs on pump gas. no additives, no BS. I think he has his total advance set to 34*, which is just about right for a fast-burn, high quench head. which, is what you would get when you shave a P90 down QUITE a bit, lol!~

I was reading most of this. not all of it admittedly, but most of it! anyway...... on most of the friction in an L series being in the upper end of the motor. I would imagine that is true. I read somewhere, on the internet no less, that the L series valvetrain saps as much as 150hp at 9000rpm;s. I myself find taht nuber to be a little on the absurd side of things, but oh well. all the roler rocker arms are doing is allowing the engine to run more effeciently, turning less of its pwoer into waste heat and friction. BRAAP>> on your assertion that turning an L series by hand that most of the force required to do it is the result of the action of opening the valves, it is makes sense at first, but you also have to think of the fact that at that low of RPM's, turning it by hand, for every valve being opened, there is a valve closing, thus exerting the stored energy in the valve spring back onto the closing ramp of the camshaft, negating the opening valve. get what I mean? kind of, Im not sure I get what I mean, HA ha! All I know is that Ive been hit a few times when Ive left a wrench on a cam bolt and it suddenly "sprang" back at me!! It would be interesting to see how much power a roller type arm would produce on an Lseries head. whoever wins this auction should keep us informed!

what I do is this.... I start by removing the exhaust downpipe thingy from teh manifold (3 bolts). should be easy because most yards cut the cat out. then I use a hacksaw and cut the wiring harness (how many have you guys EVER pulled?) cut the coolant lines, vaccuum lines, fuel lines, anything that is attached to the engine and is rubber. then I take off the powerstering pump, which is easy once you get the tension off the belt, or just cut the belt. then I take teh valve cover off, loosen the cam bolt, remove sprocket, let chain drop. start loosening head bolts. remove all those. then you can flip the head/manifolds up a little and get the PCV valve hose, then remove head+manifolds as an assembly, get it out on the ground and set it on its side with the manifolds sticking up. then its easy to get at all the manifold bolts and heat sheilds. all you need is an extension, a 12mm and a 14mm, and a Ujoint type wobble. oh yeah, it helps to be strong, lol!

I have a ZX N47 from 1980 that had the cylinder head temp sensor in the same spot as the P series heads. there is no definitive way to tell if it is a Maxima N47 other than if the block says L24E, chances are it would NOT be a regular Z/ZX N47. they have bigger intake valves and will not fit on an L24e;s bore without eyebrowing they cylinders. and thats an aweful lot of trouble to go through to have a crappy L24E. the fuel pump cut out thing is a good way to tell, and its not like its exactly hard to pull a valve cover on these motors, lol! hell, Ive got a system down to where I can pull a head, strip all teh intake and exhaust stuff off of it and be ready to roll out of the U pull It yard in about 45 minutes. Ive done it a few times.... On teh detonation note..... I think a megasquirt and a spork manifold would take care of it. The stock FI intake really does suck .......... as well as the stock computer.

yeah, i thought the Q45 used the same auto as the 300ZXTT. HERE is the site I was talking about. I guess he only had a 100 shot of nitrous. and his best time is 12.6. still pretty good for a fully loaded Q45. looks like when this transmission is properly upgraded/rebuilt it can take some punishment. In Sporks case, I would contact Level 10.

On the weight thing..... I would estimate the Z32 to be right in the 125lbs neighborhood. It weighs more than my GF! lol! I can toss around a Z or ZX 5speed pretty easy, but the Z32 (92 NA) was a wee bit harder to lug around the garage and in and out of my trunk. on the auto note.... what about a Q45 transmission? cant remember where, but I ran across a website for a guy running a hot build with something ungodly like a 250 shot of Nitrous in his q45, he DID have the transmission upgraded by level 10, I beleive. He was running low low low 12's in that pig of a car (4000lbs I would imagine), full interior and everything. or the maxima 4 speed auto rebuilt using Starion internals? From what I have read, they are the same transmission, its just that the starion trans was built using much stronger parts.

I think its because at first glance, it looks like the guy is pushing it from behind!!!! makes the engine look sooooo big!! HA ha! that WOULD be an awesome swap, but I bet you would spend about 2 or 3x as much for the engine as you would on FAB work or even the rest of the entire swap!!

go to http://www.311s.org, click on forums and there should be a tech section where they cover L series 4 cylinder swaps. I am assuming 4 cylinder because you said L20, but I guess you could have an L20A? ANYWAY, the L4 is prettymuch a bolt in from what I gather. Also, a KA24(D)E is pretty straightforward. it also covers SR20DE(T)'s and I think there is a section on CA18DET's as well. I think a turbo V6 would be fun! I wonder how hard it would be to get a VG30DE in there??

If you are looking to maximize your detonation resistance and keep a decent compression ratio, a piston dish that mirriors your combustion chamber is ideal. that being said.. If you are looking for a low to mid 8 compression ratio motor utilizing stock parts, just get a set of flat top pistons and un-shroud the valves on your head out to the fire ring on the head gasket. That should bring your compression ratio a bit lower, but not much than a factory flat top P79/P90 head combo, which is about 8.8:1 this will also improve off boost response. It will also be fairly detonation resistant because you are utilizing the high quech combustion chamber design by using the flat tops, as opposed to the dished ones. Im sure this will open up a whole new can of worms.... So, you are using an L24 crank?!? well then, that opens up a whole new realm of possibilities! LD28 rods and you could use some VG30E pistons, they had a 31.75mm compression height. which would be about perfect for an L24crank/LD28 rod combo. Granted you would have to bore out to 87m, and take about .7mm off the tops of the pistons, but I dont think thats TOO much work..... aside from getting the rods bushed or pistons bored out to make the piston pins work....

eh, that how to hotrod and race book has been proven to give inaccurate information on more than one account. We'll just wait for 1 fast Z to chime in, he has sonic tested both blocks and went with an N42 for his 3.1L build. must be a reason. On the rod/stroke ratio..... TBS>>> you would probably have a good motor is you went with a 1.75 rod/stroke ratio. You would have to get either FJ20ET rods or some LD28 rods, both bein 140mm. the LD28's would be your best bet for availability, but both sets would requitre custom pistons. This is porbably a moot point, because if you are building a bottom end for a turbo motor, the first thing you are going to do is toss the stock cast pistons. yes tehy did figure it out, and you figured it out in your post. What it needed to make power was a 4 valve pent roof head. these old side flow heads can make gobs of power, if you know what you are doing, but its not going to be close to an RB26DETT, or even the almighty RB30DET. Electramotive was getting 600HP in race trim (road race, not drag race) but I think they changed their engine configuration, as it was almost a stock L28, but not quite. I think they went with a better rod/stroke ratio or maybe a shorter stroke/bigger bore.

As I understand it the "webs" were cast in to get better coolant circulation around the cylinders, thus cutting down "hot spots", at least thats MY understanding of it all. If you pop a freeze plug out of an F54, chances are you will see straight through to the other side. The N42 block is the one that has solid metal inbetween the cylinders, making it the stronger of the 2 for over boring and what not. Ive been there when 1 fast Z demonstrated this interesting factoid. He had an N42 and an F54 side by side. when you popped freeze plugs out of both sides, and shined a flashlight through, you could see light out the other side of the F54, but not the N42.

then comes the problem of how far out you can bore an LD28 block..... has anyone measured the cyl wall thickness?? If one could for sure get +3mm out of it (87.5mm bore) you could build one hell of a 3.0L motor. I would like to do this, and this is the sole reason I got a complete LD28 shortblock, instead of just ripping out the crankshaft in the U pull it yard. damn it all to hell!! Jason510's web page with all the L/Z motor specs is NLA. I had a really good recipe cooked from all the specs on there, but now its all gone! oh well Yes, you probably coyuld build an awesome torque monster using a long rod and an LD28 block, but not many people have access to that particular block. FOr the average person, they would be better off spending the cash on head work or a custom intake manifold. it woudl be fun tho.

I was talking to Tony D a while back and he said he knew of someone building an L28 using an L20B rod... might have been him, not sure.. now THATS a tight ring pack! yeah, 1 fast Z and I weighed the LD28 against an L28 rod on his shadow-gram (?) machine, suppoes to be extremely accurate. Funny thing was, we got a 100g difference, then we looked at the LD28 rod and realized we forgot to take out the rod bearing! JeffP's mentioning of short rods being better for HIgh RPM was also the first I had heard of it. some food for thought tho...... A stock CA18DET has an 83.6mm stroke with a 133mm rod.. Sound familiar? stroker? ANYWAY, the CA18DET's are THE go to motor for high RPM's. you can tach a stock out to 8500 to 9000rpm every day. of course, they have an excellent DOHC head as well. point being, rod/stroke ratio isnt as important as head flow. perhaps one would spend money more wisely on head work than custom rods/pistons?

funny you should mention that, Jmortensen! I did weigh an LD28 rod a while back, and I dont recall the exact numbers, but it only wieghed 80 grams more than a stock L28 rod! I was very surprised, to say the least.... I thought for sure those deisel rods would weigh a ton more... I know 80 grams is a fair chunk, but no where near where I though it would be. You could make up the difference with a set of pistons, as 1 fast Z has shown.

yes, for our old crappy heads, you want a long rod. when smokey ynick and the gang were building long rod motors, they had to do this to "work the head" as they put it. I wouldn't get too hung up on a particular ratio tho. An L24 has an r/s ratio of about 1.8 stock. I would say get some custom trick pistons and use LD28 rods with an L28 crank. almost perfect 1.75. on the other side of the coin, a short rod will also work the head at lower RPM. very tricky subject. Now the question becomes, how big to go on your bore? If you shot for 90mm (cyl walls getting thin for a megaHP turbo) you;d have an almost exact copy of an FJ20. 80mm(L28= 79mm) stroke with a 90MM bore and 140MM rods. we know the FJ20 made good power and was durable. then again, it did have head you could put drain stoppers into the intakes on... I am contemplating this for a high HP na build and already found some stock pistons from another make that has is almost perfect in regards to pin height and pin diameter, as well as bore!