Mack

yes, they are 87mm kind of ironic seeing as how the VG30 is a 83 stroke x 87 bore. funny, aint it? I think your compression would suck tho. I dont know what you could do to remedy that. perhaps shave the head? McAdam

If its an 87mm bore there are other options. VG30E turbo pistons, if you wanna stick with an 87mm bore. but then the pistons would be -1.5mm in the hole. or, hog it out ot 89 and use KA24 pistons. people can get about 350rwhp on the 4 cyl KA's before they pop. so, you should be able to pull about 500rwhp. but, that is a big overbore. its up to you man, just trying to help!

meh, I decided to pass on the deal. the car had 230,000 on it, was a five speed and the super was coated with oil all over the inside. that and they wanted like $175. for something that may or may not need to be rebuilt, I'm gonna have to say pass. But I did snag the intercooler out of the car (also full of oil, lol) and an Audi 5000 external wastegate. Now, at the OTHER U pull It around here, a 280ZX turbo just turned up. Also have a T bird super coupe. MMmmmm 60-1 turbo. Quick question, how will a turbo like a 256 degree cam? I see that when turbos go for big HP they usually like to go bigger cams. I picked up a stock "C" 260Z cam for peanuts........ McAdam

meh, I decided to pass on the deal. the car had 230,000 on it, was a five speed and the super was coated with oil all over the inside. that and they wanted like $175. for something that may or may not need to be rebuilt, I'm gonna have to say pass. But I did snag the intercooler out of the car (also full of oil, lol) and an Audi 5000 external wastegate. Now, at the OTHER U pull It around here, a 280ZX turbo just turned up. Also have a T bird super coupe. MMmmmm 60-1 turbo. Quick question, how will a turbo like a 256 degree cam? I see that when turbos go for big HP they usually like to go bigger cams. I picked up a stock "C" 260Z cam for peanuts........ McAdam

o.k., so I am at my local Ecology auto parts yard yesterday getting some essentials, like free 440cc injectors (pocket size) and I see a ford TB supercoupe. its pretty complete, I dont have much time, so I get the intercooler, which they had no idea what it was so, they charged me the 12.95 for a heater core, SCORE! now, I may be going back for the supercharger. especially if I can get it for cheap! "uhm, yeah, its an air pump..." or sprinkle some coolant in and out of the holes "uhm, yeah, is a water pump.....;" yeah, its dishonest and what not, but, hey, they get the cars virtually for free and charge you for evcerything .... anyway back to the point.... I;ve got an F54/P79 with little over 100K on it. its in my 1980 280zx. has anyone done this?? My PS doesnt work anyway, and I live in AZ, so I'd much rather have AC than PS. I can make a custom bracket, and I already have an IC! I also have an infiniti M30 injection set up, and possible some 370cc injectors on the way. I read that in some previous posts that the M90 will put out 14psi spinning at 7000rpm when the car is turning 5000rpm. sounds about right! i also found a site that said the parasiticc HP loss to turn it at 7,000rpm would be a lil under 20hp. thats not bad, especially considering the throttle response. thought, comments, questions> McAdam

well, i went to the J/Y today and thought I'd measure the jag I 6. I cant remember who was contemplating the swap or who wanted the infor, but... Its about 25 in oil pan to top of motor, 20inches from intake to exhasut wide.... I didnt count the AFM, which is mounted on the side of the motor for some odd reason.... and its 30inches long, roughly..... I hope this helps someone out there, lol! McAdam

DAMN! You put a VG30ET into a 4X4 pickup? soudns like fun! for wiring in a beast like that, perhaps try http://www.Z31.com ? Its a 1st gen 300zx specialty site. I would imagine if anyone knows anything about that wiring harness/motor, they would be there. I don't know about Z31 turbo motors, but I know on a lot of early 90's nissan motors most of the relays were built into the harness, so all you had to do to do a swap car to car, like say an RB20DET into a 240sx, was hook up 8 wires and you were golden. If the relays weren't in the harness, but in the car itself, it would probably be more of a pain in the ass. I hope you get that running, as that would be an awesome beast. a friend of mine wants a 300zxtt in his pathfinder, at least this is a ray of hope for him, lol! McAdam

yes, i would tend to agree with norm on this one. If he is indeed pushing 240hp out of an L24, I would think that would be about the limit for a SOHC, non crossflow 2.4L motor. unless your BRE/Pete Brock and your insane and have a way bigger budget than brains, then I guess 268hp is the limit on an L24. thats what it says in the little book that came with my model, lol! it lists 11.5:1 compression, 8200rpm redline and a bore of 3.660 in. I gues thats a .040" overbore. still a hell of a lot of HP. and tripple 44pph solex/mikuni carbs. I guess if you added 30 more cubic inches, who knows that the limit is if you had their head porting knowledge and expertise, not to mention budget. On a side note, Will i be the first to use the maxima N47 in a build up? I haven't seen anyone else on here with one.......... McAdam

yeah, norms car has got to be right around 230 to 240rwhp. Go here . granted, this guys L20B only put down 94.4 hp, but if you scroll down, it has the dyno peak readings of a few other cars. a few L28's. 2 of them were in the 160 to 170 rwhp range, and they didnt really have anything special done to them. For factory ratings, datsun did something weird. In all th ZX's, they rated them at the back of the transmission with all accessories running. so, to get WHP, you have to figrue in for the diff. which on the P79 cars, figures right around 125 stock hp at the wheels. these cars are choked exhaust wise and intake. if you did away with the stock systems, and put in a nice cam, with very mild porting and some compression to wake it up, I think you could swing 200rwhp on a decent budget. I guess I'll let you guys know as soon as I get enough cash for my cam! lol i have a maxima N47 head going on a flat top block with mild porting and a planned 256 degree, .491" lift cam. with my port matched, cleaned up P82 intake (no egr) and a nice exhaust system (2.5" mandrel) I think I can pull some decent times. we shall see. perhaps a 60mm TB and my infiniti M30 conversion will help too.... McAdam

hey, TBS >>> I am really not trying to steal your thunder, I am just trying to help answer questions with solutions I came up with when I was looking at doing this with the SOHC KA heads. Plus, if other people know whats up, we can have a nice little brainstorming session going on here and help get some more ideas out on the table. Perhaps a solution for releiving the stress in the heads would be to have the finished assembly cryogenically treated? It helps a lot with pistons. When they cryo pistons, it helps them retain thier "round-ness" a lot more when things start to heat up. less distortion. anyway, this is coming along nicely! McAdam

he is using cyls 2&3 and 1&2 and 3&4 kind of like nissan did with the block, going from 4 cyl to 6 cyl. cut one head in half, then take the middle cylinders out of another head and weld the halfs on tho the ends of the middle chunk. As far as stress and welding 2 heads together, there really isnt any. Once you bolt the head to the engine, wheres the stress? Only real stress is up (cyl explosions) and down (head bolts) there is no stress trying to tear the heads apart (side to side). Unless you count heat of the expading heads, but the head bolts will keep everything in check as they do for other heads. welding it is merely a way of sealing the colant and oil passages. As far as accuracy.... If you build a jig, you can do it.. Another thought for accuracy was to bolt a camshaft across the weld lines of the 2 halves (or thirds in this case) when you are welding the bottom and sides. Then, when you are done, a simple, minor align bore and a custom CNC cam blank. The KA intake manifold has LONG runners and is built for a long stroke, torquey motor. I wonder how it would behave on a short stroke high RPM motor? It is feasible to make a 6cyl KA intake using the same method as building the head. I think a custom intake built for some side draft mikunis to start out with for simplicities sake would be the best route. the cost issue is cheap for him because he is in a school where he has access to all of these things and tools for free. but, on another note, KA heads can be had VERY cheap. Hell, whole motors go for $150, with motor, trransmission and wiring and ECU.. they are swap leftovers when everyone wants an SR. also, KA's came in EVERYTHING! Altimas, 240sx's frontiers.... lots of stuff. Heads in junkyards at U pull It yards gor for about $30. once he gets the procedure down, as long as you can find a shop with a full CNC setup and a well skilled heli arc aluminum wleder, the cost really would probably be cheaper than having an "Ultimate P90" built from say, sunbelt or rebello. seriously, how much are people on this board spending for a head that flows 250cfm? McAdam

Manifolds will all be one off, custom peices. but, a header doesnt cost taht much to make, neither does a weld el turbo manifold! the combustion chambers on a KA head are 47cc's, i think. or somewhere close anyway. which is actually good for both N/A and turbo. The difference will be in flat top pistsons or dished. I've been behind the 2 heads into one thing from the beginning, its really cost effective if you think about it. Plus, its all stock nissan stuff as far as valves, lifters, springs, retainers crap like that. just no big bucks for the machine work and welding plus I was looking at the SOHC to keep things simple, but the DOHC will actually work far better. McAdam

I'll drop a little bit of a hint here....... think KA. Think KA24DE. McAdam

naw, they never made an L6 Z series motor. on the RB thing, i would actaully WANT the VVT. It could be fun! I can get my hands on a complete RB25 block, head and manifolds for $550. I just dont have any money right now. i guess the head bolts line up between the RB and L motors, and the bore spacing is dead on. only problem I can see is oil/coolant passages and cam drive. the oil and coolant passages could be solved by running externall plumbiong for all that crap, with -an lines. The cam drive would be another expense all together. You'd have to ahve custom chain sprockets for the cams made up, along with a custom length timing chain, or you'd have to convert the L motor to a belt drive. either way, your looking at big bucks. a damn shame really. bolting this thing on to an L28, youd notice a considerable puwer bump right away, because of 18 more cubes. then, if you had the 3.0, you'd have 30 more cubes (over an RB25, still 24 more cubes over an RB26) plus, our L cylinder walls are thicker even at extreme overbore levels than a STOCK VG30DETT (and I am assuming RB26 as well.) just a few thoughts to consider McAdam

just out of curiosity TBS, what prevents this from working other than the belt drive vs chain drive? coolant passages? oil passages? there is a guy here in AZ that has some RB parts he is letting go cheap, just wondering if it may or may not be worth my time..... McAdam

damn! that is a very nice manifold! i wish I had the money to buy that sucker! It looks reasonably well made. i would assume that it outflows the stock peice by quite a bit! I wonder if it would interfere with the LHD cars' steering rack and such? McAdam

well, it all depends on how much you know about L series motors. the L series 6 cylinder motors are basically L 4 cylinders that have been cut in half and had 2 more cylinders added to the middle. This is quite evident when you look at the intake manifolds on an L28 vs an L20b. when L20B people want injection manifolds, they take an L28 manifold, cut out the middle 2 cylinders and the re-weld the halves togethor. and it pretty much bolts on. The L series 4 and 6 cylinder engines share very similar coolant and oil flow paths. hell, an L20B head gasket will pretty much match up hole for hole to an L28 gasket. I've had the 2 side by side. other than the fact its 2 cylinders short, its spot on. so, now that we know this, whats to stop someone from taking a KA24DE head (or 2 I guess) cutting it in half, then sticking 2 more middle cylinders inbetween the half and re-welding the whole thing back togethor? other than some very excellent heliarc skills being needed, some machining work on the heads and custom camshafts, nothing really.. I bet you could do this and come in for under 1/4 the price of the O.S. Giken head and everything on the head would be stock nissan, except for the valve covers, camshafts and manifolds. McAdam

cheap option? how bout a Maxima N47? on an L26, it would give you somewhere in the 10:1 range for compression (me thinks) and they are EVERYWHERE in the junkyards. they flow decent and have a great chamber design. check this out here is a pic of a Maxima N47 (on the left) and a 280ZX N47 (on the right) side by side. notice the VAST difference in combustion chamber shape? just food for thought McAdam

does anyone have any plans or links to any sites where I could FIND plans to build one? I would really like to port my N47 the right way, and the only way to do that is to have a flowbench! thanks in advance McAdam

hey, could you post some pics as to how close these things are to lining up? I would be very interested to see if it is feasible. do the bolt holes line up? are the mercedes heads chain or belt driven? i know the RB series of heads have all the head bolt holes in the same positions and some of the coolant/oil passages line up. but they are belt driven, so that would be a PITA to figure out. thanks in advance!! McAdam

it would be using a stock crankshaft because the Z22S pistons have a 35.5mm pin height, so 133mm + 35.5 + 39.5 = 208! .5mm + deck clearance. the pistons have a slight 9cc dish. so they would be decent for turbo apps. They came in the Z22S. and early Z22E's. The Z22S was the carb version that went into trucks before EFI. this is a great site for all things L and Z related!! McAdam

nothing like fishing chunks of skirt from your oil pan! 'cept maybe pulling chunks of bearing out of your transmission. or chunks of rod from your oil pan, lol! As far as the dish pistons, flatlander racing or RPMrons, i think they stock quite a bit of datsun stuff. may as well overbore this time around. If you cant find stock stuff, get Z22 pistons, 87mm stock, and use L24 con rods. it all works out the same, youd just get a wee better rod/stroke ratio, and you could go 88mm. McAdam

well, my local ecology pick n pull had a half price sale today and they also had an M30. So, i went there and pulled EVERYTING to make the swap work! I got the wiring harness, brian box, all the sensors (MAF, dist, coil, water temp, everything) connected to the harness, and the injectors. all for $80. Anyone know where I could get pinouts and wiring diagrams for an M30? it is fully sequential. i opened up the ECU and it had 6 little injector drivers, how cute! only probelm is it had a very minor injector fire, some of the wires are crispy and a little melty. I grabbed a few plugs from a maxima to wire into the harness at the bad points. I also grabbed maxima injectors, because the max had the recall done and the injector numbers were the same between the max and infiniti. the max had flow thru injectors like the M30. but the max was definately a batch fire system, and the M30 definately sequential. This should make for an interesting project. I plan on adding a high comp. head, cam and a header at some point. any suggestions or comments? McAdam

well, i was at a local pick n pull the other day, thought I'd snag some pics. i just pulled the rear cover off, I did not actually take the damn thing apart. whole unit thats what it looks like when you pull a rear cover off of one of these puppies. that doesn't look lkike a normal R200, does it? inner innards if you look down the hole, between the spider gears, you see "something" between the axels. I am not sure what it is, too small to be a clutch pack or VLSD, any ideas? Mack. if anyone is interested, Ecology Auto Parts is having a half off sale on saturday. A bunch of locations are having the sale, but the one I am going to is in Phoenix.

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/472513/3 this is an electrAmotive, not electrOmotive (tecII and tecIII guys) I called them and they told me I was on my own because when they sold them back in the day, they had a modified front cover and crank trigger. not the distributor pick up I have. the ones marked M+ and M- appear to go to the pick on the distributor and I know the points C+ and C- go to the mallory coil, and IGN should go to a wire hooked to the ignition switch so its not on all the time. but, what does the one marked PTS go to? as you can see, I have a later style distributor without points. also, on the front there is a red two pronged plug marked RPM, does that go to a limiter? there is also a single plug on the front marked TACH, which wire would go there? this is going into a 1980 280zx sorry for all the questions, I obviously bought this used and did not get an instruction manual with it, lol! thanks in advance guys! McAdam