Ducer

YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEp. Want to buy an S30 Cowl hood or a 280z hood with das vents. LMKKKKKKKKKKKK Los Angeles, CA area, or at least SOCAL, pick up............................................Thanks

Hey yall, Looking for a good and clean working 79-81 280zx distributor complete with cap/rotor/ ignitor control (on side) Looking for plug and play. Ebay, autozone has these remans for $100-130, so used. Looking to spend $40-75 shipped, as pick a part in CA is about $30-50. Please let me know. Thanks! Paypal ready!

Hey yall, Looking for Zcar(S30) to 240sx Rear disc Conversion brackets. Modern Motorsport or whatever brand. Looking for Eibach Lowering springs for Zcar(S30) Or any lowering springs: 1.75 or 2" drop preferred. Please let me know if you have these items used, preferred. Unless you have NEW for the price of used, haha. Thanks!

Figured it out, it was the high beam switch on the turn signal stick. It was bad, so the ground was not going to the high or low beam at the switch. Now it's just an issue of finding one at the junk yard, or paying over $50 for one on ebay. I'll put a toggle switch for now i guess. Thanks yall.

Timing is off more likely. You should do the timing from the oil pump to the dizzy again, and set TDC and the rotor at #1. That was my issue, my dizzy rotor was off by 1. Back fired like crazy from residual fuel. So timing timing timing. Sometimes 12V is too much and your spark will "Jump" you will have to use the ballast resistor so that it's like 9V. Correct me if I am wrong, when starting, the car uses all 12v, and in operation it uses 9v or so. I had spark jump from coil wire to chassis, and no spark was distributed to the spark plugs. So those two things, Timing set right, and use the ballast resistor if you're running stock Dizzy .

Thanks, I will do what you said. There isn't much wires to deal with these Z's so it shouldn't be that bad. I do have the wiring diagram on the computer, The fuses all look good, but looks good could be bad. I will order new fuses just the the sake of knowing. I'll surely check all the grounds. thanks.

Hey guys, my 260z has no lights 1. Good combination switch 2. Good battery My Headlights, Markers, or tail lights do not work. But brake lights work. I tried to trace from the combination switch to the fuse box and no luck. I tried to "ground" many black wires as I can find, no luck. I tried to check continuity at the combo switch and headlight (white/red and Red) is good. At running light (Green/White and Green/Blue) is good. Anyhoo, when I got the car, I noticed that nothing worked, except for the driver headlight did turn on but super weak. Is there a Fuse or relay or some sort of unit that is blown or should be replaced? I have checked the "L and R" headlight fuses, and even put a solid link as a screwdriver in fuse area, with no luck. Any ideas? Oh when I unplugged the combo switch and the turn switch, I step on the brakes and Right turn --> goes on. Are these 260z 240z lights configured in a series like those "old school" xmas lights that if one bulb dies, they all die???

Your plugs look good to me. I am sure your water pump is gone. On old cars, the water pumps blades get rusted away. Though it may not show any signs, inside, the blades on the water pump is gone, so it is spinning but no blades so no water is moving around. I've encountered this a few times before, WATER= rust, and it rusts away the impellers of the water pump, so no water is circulating. That is the other suspect, I suggest checking the water pump's impellers. Here's a link: LOOK AT THE PICTURE OF THE WATER PUMP IN THE MIDDLE OF THE PAGE: WOWZERS, I'VE SEEN A FEW IN MY LIFE. http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2010/12/car-heater-blows-cold-auto-service-tips-part-2/

Is your car running? or lights working? Why don't you have someone step on the brakes, BOoya, that's the brake light. Put in reverse, Booya, that's reverse. Turn on the blinkers, booya. Process of elimination. Reverse should go in the slot that has a clear lense, and most likely is a clear bulb. so you got 1 of three. That's only 2 left. 50/50 you get it right or wrong from here. Here is everything you need. If you can't find it here, come back and I can help you. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm

You should sell the 98 Ford. I mean, your ford is worth less than your 75 Z. 1975Z in California is Smog Exempt, so you never have to worry about emissions +1 1998 Ford = OBD2 = Ford = double Negative. Z= Old school sports car that only a few hardcore enthusiast own and 99% males = Manly Mustang= Plentiful, no handling, fast, loud. 75 Z's are about $1000 for a decent shell here in CA. So Ebay and Craigslist and make your money, part out what can be parted out, then sell the car whole.

I believe timing is off and or ignition spark is jumping and sparking at the wrong time. I am having the same issue with back fire on my car. It started a few times, idles great. I turn it off adjusted a few things and Pooof, air puff out and back fire. Very strange. My timing is on, probably carb needs tune. Or spark is firing when intake valves still open. So I say check your timing and if the valves and any vacuum issues. I have a friend that will help me this weekend, when I find out what is wrong, i'll let you know. I've been messing with it for a few days now, but I am an EFI guy more than a carb guy.

Center cap is fitment/ manufacturing issue I assume. Use a dremel and sandpaper fix. I hope you're not tyring to fit the Z center caps on the XXR wheels!!? I don't think XXR 513 came with 8.5" wide. XXR only makes 16x7 and 16x8. You want to put 16x8.5 in the front? You run 225/35 or 225/45 not 245/45. Spacer = only for clearance of caliper or clearance of the wheel not touching the shocks/springs. depending on the wheel and how it sits, if may ore may not clear your caliper, you use a spacer. How thick? depends on how much the wheel face needs to be away from the caliper. Wheel/tire rubbing against shock/springs, you use spacer to move out. How thick? Depends on offset of wheels, how much you need to go out so it does not hit shock/springs? There is not answer to your question, it all depends on your wheels, the style, the offset. Spacers come in slip on 3mm, 5mmm, 7mm, 8mm, 10mm 15, 20, 25mm, anything after this is "spacer/adapteres" that is bolt on roughly. XXR does not make 8.5" 513's as far as I know. BE MORE SPECIFIC IN YOUR QUESTIONS, and your information may be Wrong.

Well, my 1974 260z started and ran a few times since I got it It ran this week actually. I recently pulled the engine out and painted it, and did a some what restoration on the engine bay. So recently: 1. New NGK plugs 2. New Duralast Wires 3. Coil is Old looking and it has signs of being 5-10 years old. (Have a newer coil will change soon) 4. Cap and Rotor seems okay, but probably old (Will change soon) Issue: 1. Didn't want to start. It tries and I can hear it fire on a cylinder or two 2. I had spark jumping through the wire and randomness. (I believe it was running 12v through the coil thus the Jumps) 3. NOW I have the wiring set as pictured below, and the "extra Black/White wire is not in use) Some sparks at the spark plugs seem "Stronger" some are Faint and weak. Orange / Weak spark Overall. Some stronger, some very weak. Please see the picture below and let me know "WHERE Does the extra "BLACK/ WIRE GO TO?" (i assume to the Positive of the coil? AND if my wiring looks correct. The previous owner did a lot of "mikey mouse" wiring, and I've had to clean it up as much as I can, and FSM and Haynes etc, don't seem to have "condenser" and other things. Correct? Wrong? Please Let me know. THANKS!

I actually sold them already earlier today. Got some good gas money for them, so I am happy. I would never go back to Hitachis or the dual SU's. The Holley set up is much more superior and easier to play with and looks cleaner without all that balance tube and smog stuff. Finding parts is much easier and WTF, Hitachi? They make electronics and home appliances, Holley makes Carbs. More power and reliability with my Holley carb. Love it.

Yay, that's freaking awesome. I got my 74 260z a few weeks ago. I recommend: POR 15 Rust treatment. I ordered a quart of it already. Hear good things about it. It's expensive but it works I hear. $40 a quart. and like $125 a gallon. I also recommend getting a good carburetor set up. The stock "Flat Top" hitachi carbs on the 260z's are garbage. I didn't want to believe it, and so I rebuilt them and they failed. I desperately wanted to salvaged them, but I am so happy with my Holly carburetor set up. 1 Large carburetor easy tune, easy start up. GOOD LUCK!

Yeah, rust is horrible. I kinda of regret buying the car with all the rust in it. Though it may not be as much as your car, I have been chipping, scrapping and grinding like a MOFO. I will take this experience and buy another Z in the future with minimal or no rust. I've stripped the whole car because of rust, which is a good thing I believe. If a car didn't have rust, I would not have the chance to see each inch of the car. This is my first Z and unfortunately it's a rusty 260z. I didn't know about Flat tops, and how wack the 260z was. After I bought it, I read Wikipedia. I did underestimate the Rust issue. I think the $700 was a major part of why I bought it. When I first towed it home, I was saying to myself "WTF did I get myself into." When I paid $350 for the carb set up, I said "WTF did I get myself into." When I installed the carb and I got it running and the engine roared, I said "WTF, this is awesome, I can't wait to drive this down the road and not worry about Smog and cruise the beach and be bad ass." So ever since the engine fired up, Rust, holes, 1/2" quarter panel bondo, didn't really faze me much, I knew then the Z was alive and there wasn't any going back. When I went to the Datsun Swap meet last weekend, and saw a few like 5 Z's and about 100 510's I knew then how rare Z's are. I think that S30 Z's are the Japanese Muscle cars, and they have a GT supercar feel and design that no other Japanese car has. S30 Z's are probably among the only real Japanese sports cars back in the day. If you have a Z, I say you're lucky and a few years from now, you'll see them on Barret Jackson if no so already.

Hey Buddy, I hear ya man. Getting limited now a days. Here is my Z. For the last few days, I removed sound deadening in the cabin. Just a scraper and a hammer and I chiseled it off little by little. With newer cars like my 240sx I had to use "dry ice" but these older Z's sound deadening material are hard and brittle. After that, I used a scraper with a razor blades and scrape the finer materials off. Then used "Goo Gone" with a drill and metal bristle to scrub. Rinse off with a towel. Today I pulled the engine and trans out. Purple powered degreased the engine bay and interior. Removed the fenders and everything. Most likely cleaning it more and pressure washing it tomorrow. I ordered a quart ($43) bucks of POR 15 on ebay, so i'll treat the rust. Rust isn't hard to deal with, I have lots of time, I have a welder and lots of cutting tools so money is the only issue, not labor. After rust treatment, I will use Rubberized undercoating, bed liner spray and Herculiner. Used herculiner before and it's amazing, even with the rusted floor pans, that Herculiner is tough even if the pan rusted away. Earlier this week: Most of the deadening material off, just residue left: Today: Cleaned but rusty: Deleted all the A/C and heater crap. Im in california so those things are useless in my opinion. It's not a daily so no need for all that ancient paper weight. Today: Naked engine bay and fender less. If you can find a Z for under $1000 that runs or has good parts, i think it's worth it. There will be pros and cons, and money is always a factor. I like to spend the lowest price for a car, and then see if there is a good and cheap way to fix it. You can buy a finished car for $5000-$15,000 but then there isn't any fun in buying one that is done. These cars a projects and it is all about the satisfaction of building them to your liking, wasting lots of money and time into them and feeling really good when you get it where you want it and people appreciate it. There isn't much appreciation when someone asks you about the engine, paint, and interior and what you did and you replied "Oh, I bought it like that." I love it when people ask or say, how did you do that, or what is that? and I replied "Oh, I made that." If you buy a Z, this means you're at a point in your life where you have a good daily driver and want something cool as a project. Get one for under $2500 that needs TLC. I paid $700 for a rusted Z, If there was one for $1400 and as I know now, I would definitely buy it, but the thing is, a non rusted Z doesn't go for $1,400 now a days maybe a bare shell, but not one with with I have. Again, I have a Lincoln Mig welder I bought for $600 buck, years ago, so $700+$600 is still better than a non rusted Z because now I have a tool that will fix many rusts and create many items. So Invest in Tools than parts.

I paid $700 for my 74 260z and it came with: 1. Clean Title 2. Rusted floor and a few rusts on the Quarter panel 3. JDM/Euro amber tail lights 4. New Kyosan fuel pump 5. L26 that is original and ran. Im removing the sound deadening now, and dealing with the rust, but that's easy. Get the car for cheap. $2500 is a lot being that $500-800 Z with a little money and work can make it the way you want. However, if you don't have much time, then you should buy a running car for $2500-3500. In california where I am, it's hard to find any of these Z's for under $2000. Even people want $1000 for the shell. I was lucky to get my car which the frame is quite straight and came with goodies well worth it. People want a lot for Pre 1975 Z's because we have emiisions (smog testing) so cars after 1975 must do bi-annual smog tests, thus pre 1975 is valuable.

I would like a few bucks for it to compensate for the expensive carb set up I just bought. Let me know who much you want to pay and you can pick it up. Thanks.

Hey guys! Thanks for the help and I went to the Datsun Swap Meet here in Eagle Rock today and bought me a Clifford manifold and a holly carb set up. I installed the holly set up and BAM, it's perfect. Runs great and no issues. Oh, I had the timing sequence off so that was an issue. I think I had it 153642 or in some weird order. now it's back to 15 36 24. But even with the right order, the Flat Tops failed even with rebuilding them and all, so my friend pushed me to buy the new carb set up and Im so thank full. Feels so good getting out of the a deep hole. So it turned out: 1. It was not the ignition switch 2. It was not the safety seat belt system 3. It was not the vacuum. 4. IT was the Flat Tops. So, I didn't want to believe and tried to salvaged these Flat tops, but once you go with a single 4 barrel holly, you'll never go back. SHE's ALIVE! Thank you so much guys. I appreciate it. The Datsun Community is very cool. I've always been a Nissan enthusiast but getting older now and it's time to go back in time a bit. NOW on with the resto. My custom coat hanger linkage works great! Now that it starts and runs, Im pulling the motor and trans and pressure washing it and painting the bay, Deleting the A/C and Heater cores, and anything I don't really want, new dash is much more. Woot.

I suspect that the Switch was bad as well. It may not spring back to the ON and that's why. I don't even touch the gas pedal when using the key to rev the engine. I did remove the seat belt unit while cleaning rust and the seat belts are not connected. Hmm, I didn't know that Seat belts had to do anything with starting the car, but if it is a safety feature, Please let me know what to do. I assume 260z's will have what 240z's have and much more, so please show me how to do that bypass on the 240z and I'll make sense of it with my 260z. There is new Dampening oil in the carbs. Filled 2/3 in the cylinder, so that's okay. With regards air pump was taken off as well as A/C. EGR is blocked off, The hose on the left of the "fuel to rear carb" is Water/cooling line, I suspect. Compression is 150psi through 180psi on all cylinders. 1. RICH 2. CARB is definitely off 3. It will start up with starting fluid, but seems to only stay on or continue with the starting helping it. Bad. I should just get 1 holly carb and call it a day. God I need money.

Hey guys so I bought this 1974 260z and thought that I could deal with carburetors and all that good stuff, but I am stumped. Having owned many 240sx S chassis, and grasping the full understanding of those cars, I'd figure that Z's be a lot more fun and easier somewhat. What I have: 1. 1974 260Z 2. Flat top carbs which I should have researched before buying GOOD: 1. Compression #'s 150 to 180 psi range on all 6 cylinders (CHECK) 2. Fuel goes to bowls, CHECK 3. Sparks (Check) BAD: 1. Will start but wont stay on, and I have to keep the starter going to aid the engine to keep running. So Reving the engine means I turn the KEY harder. Really weird!! Let go of the key to spring to "ON" the car will die. But turn it harder to crank it, the car REVS up. Freaking odd. SO basically the Accelerator is the Ignition switch. 2. Plugs look fouled. Black dry, as fuel is RICH SO THE HAINES, AND ONLINE DOES NOT HAVE VACUUM DETAILS, SO PLEASE LET ME KNOW IN MY PICTURE WTF IS WRONG AND WHAT i NEED TO DO. I LABLED AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE. PLUSE USE THE LABLES ON THE PICTURE AND GIVE ME SOME POINTERS. I DELETED THE EGR STUFF AND ALL THE NON USE STUFF. NOW, BEFORE i THROW THESE FLAT TOPS OFF A BRIDGE AND GET A HOLLY OR SU CARBS, HELP ME AND LETS SEE IF WE CAN MAKE IT WORK. THANK YOU!