superduner

It's been verified. I got an email from t3 letting me know their 280z spacers should be . 35" thick while their 240z counterpart is .78"... I too was informed they are stamped the. 240z.toyhr and the. 280z.toyhr so I go outside and measure and behold! Problem found. Irrelevant of what's stamped these bad boys are .78"! I recommend going forward all those of you who get your set to verify the width of the spacer

Alright so after measuring the spacer with the digital caliper the spacer is 20.22mm(aprox) measured it while installed but there's no way it's close to the 17mm range. And the difference looks about right to what I need to be centered. Rats! Now I gotta contact techno toy and see if they'll exchange the for the right one. Fml

Doing thst first thing tomorrow miles. I'll post up new pictures and measurements.

Yeah bro i looked up images of the two ad I can't find measurements of the differences between the two but the fitment is definitely off. I ordered the 240z ones and they came in and look really thick. I contacted techno toy for information in differences in hopes of an exchange. Definitely no filing would fix this I'd need like 2 or 3 spacers between the caliper and spindle for it to be centered (ballpark)

I'm putting together my S12W front calipers set up together and noticed the inside of the caliper presses against the rotor side wall not allowing the rotor to spin freely and sitting in the middle as it should. I purchased the techno toy hub spacers for the S12W Toyota caliper conversion so I'm sure it should be aligned correctly. I disassembled the hub and spacer and bearings and redid the reassembly to make sure nothing was off and the problem still persisted. It's as if I need to add spacers between the caliper and where it bolts up to the spindle. To get it centered. But I'm sure I shouldn't be doing this as that's the point of the hub spacer!... Anyone run into this problem during their set up assembly?

Yeah brother I figured the rear 3 hole alignment might be an issue but don't mind drilling into the tunnel to secure it. I'd definitely be using the ashtray as the guide. Mind seeing how that would fit by doing so even if the holes don't line up for the rear? Much appreciated brother

I don't have a choke cable or defrost system on my set up. It's more aesthetic than anything. But will the 72+ ashtray one console fit on my 70? It looks like it has a sump for the ashtray in the Trans tunnel

In the market for a nice center console 71-73 model preferably. Shoot me some pics and prices. Located in San Diego 91911. P.s would these consoles fit my series 1 z?

As far as the proportioning valve goes. I'm looking into the adjustable one for rear; however, I swapped over ALL brake lines from the donor 81zxt on to my 70z and with that came the stock proportion valve on the rear. Would this help out my set up in any way of would I still need to source an adjustable one? Just curiosity to whether or not there's an actual difference between the early z PV and the 280zx

I second that! I got the 280z booster on my 70 240z and the 280z barely fits! I have the 280zxt booster from the donor car laying inside the trailer now because I was unable to fit it in there. From what I noticed. If I wanted to fit the 280zx boost in there we would have to relocate the clutch master cylinder about an inch more towards the driver side fender. Making a new hole in the firewall for the clutch Mc and I'm guessing we'd have to swap out the 240z pedal assemble for a 280z pedal assembly perhaps so the clutch pedal aligns with the relocated clutch MC accordingly. In addition,I'm sure we would have to adjust the boosters shaft length as to make it functional with the MC and not have the brakes lock up, or not engage if too loose. Just a theory I haven't tried but it seems it could work. That big ol booster would definitely be a huge upgrade on pedal feel If we could pull this off.

I Think you're on to Something. I looked up the zx booster upgrade pics on Google and from what it "seems" they look like 260/80z engine bays. Granted they come. With the bigger boosters already I wouldn't be surprised if they also space out the master cyl and throttle linkage system on the firewall some more in comparison to the 240z. If that's the case then us early Z owners got the shorter end of the stick on the design for booster upgrade Hahaha

Haha it's all gravy Chris. Great new thread BTW.

Haha dude that was hilarious. Well played sir autocorrect definitely wins

Bro I tried that like crazy and I'll share thst k order to get the zx booster in there BOTH the throttle linkage part Woodhaven to be moved and the clutch MC would also have to be moved about an inch to the right to make room. Still lots the zx booster laying in the garage from the z zxt donor car incase I ever pull the trigger... Although highly unlikely. Unless the 280z booster/15/16 Mc set up feels too much of a pain to stop

I got them from thmotorsports.com but I think the links "thecheckone" shared were 20 cheaper a Piece. But I got deer shipping Idk if rock auto came out to be the same after shipping or if theirs is free also.

Right!? At this point I'm beginning to think this 4 piston upgrade is going to end up being more of a downgrade of the car isn't stopping better than if I had the stock 240z set up. Granted the huge caliper and rotors look stand point is cool and all I'm at the point in life where functionality and reliability outweigh looks and bragging rights. Might have to start to looking into actually bigger rear brakes to even things out maybe? Any "real" personal experience recommendations for the rears with the toyo front set up?

Hey thanks for sharing the feedback man. Under what conditions are the fronts locking up though. Under track hard braking,emergency hard breaking or just lighly pressing on the brakes. It'll be an "aggressive" street driver for me but turned off about the thought of the car locking up on me on smooth breaking to be honest

Yezir already got the r200 mustache Bar hanging the diff already. The alignment of the front end of the diff that sits on the crossmember is what I feel "looks" like it's sitting to car back. As if I had to 180 the mustache Bar and rebolt it as to move the diff an inch or so more Forward. But I don't have a diff mount bolted up so I could be wrong and that's how it's supposed to be

Yeah man the 260z 280z crossmember are bigger and thicker and allow for a bigger exhaust pipe. Which I'll need for the 3" turbo piping. Part #25 I'll have to cut off and relocate a little higher to clear the r200 87 Finned CLSD cover. The issue I'm having is alignment of the front diff runner mount to the crossmember. The r200 is sitting too far back I'm not sure if the mustache r200 Bar I have needa to be rotated so the diff sits more to the front. Seems like that's what I'm going to have to do. And if so, the cv's might not be running perpendicular to the hubs... Looked for pictures as to how the r200 mustache Bar gets bolted on and everywhere I see the bars face toward the back so I think I got that right. So I'm trying to figure out how the diff is going to be billed on the front

Need parts 20,21,26

Rotors Sourced. Mods please delete!

Hey guys. I swapped in all the brake lines and components from my donor 82 zxt over to my 70z. And wondering if swapping over the, zxt brake system will help with the loss of brake power in the rear that comes from adding the Toyota S12W vented 4 piston front calipers? Current set up is as follows. 280z booster, 15/16 MC, 280zx fuel lines and proportioning valve, S12W front calipers, 82 zxt rear disk conversion. You guys think I'll still have weak breaking in the rear? Would like a more even break feel. Read that 4 piston fronts cause front wheels locking up on hard breaking. Just looking for people's opinions in my set up.

Bro... You da real MVP! Haha Yeah I know there were the R and L dirrerent codes. But the turbo had different number altogether. Now I know the turbo is 5 lug not 4 so that narrowed it down.

Hey guys threw in the clsd r200 differential on my 70 240z and seems ill be needing this 280z crossmember that curves and sits further back allowing the diff mount to sit flush accordingly. Also if you have a spare differential mount in gold shape to par with let me know! Thanks

Hit up AKIRA. Maybe he has a set left