superduner

Someone get me that damn LOGO file . I'll do a damn run for us hoodies, shirts, you name it ! lol

Oh man that sucks... Well i don't mind getting my stuff done myself. If only i had that logo File that'd be it. Looks pretty bad ass.

located in SAN DIEGO, CA in search of recommendations of a body shop/Fab shop that can build me a cage as well as take a look at the car's front end ( as i suspect previous slight front end damage) might need to be straightened out and I'd like stronger new under body frame rails. ( previous owner jacked up the car from the frame and got it all bent up ) Jsut want to make sure the car is straight and squared prior to cage/ body work. Thanks in advance for your help! looking to get this bad girl out on the road soon.

Looking to get a new batch of goodies if you're still in the market? My old shirt and hoodie from 2017 is now Faded AF and time to retire 😢 Looking for goodies in Large

Far stretch given how old this is lol not sure whether or. Not you still have it but if you do I'm interested

Having thee worst of luck sourcing performance tires for my equip 01's! Found some 15x9-28 and 15x10-28 but seems like toyo doesn't make any R888R for my wheel specs :'( Need recommendations, links. Looking for 235 or 245\45 fronts and 255 or 265/45 rears.

Yeah man, mind bogged the heck out of me the first time I heard that. I pulled the rail with the Injectors when I was testing to see if the Injectors were spraying and or leaking but when that noise comes on after cranking I noticed the Injectors were all on and spraying at the same time. Never seen anything like that before. I Followed the same swap guide i did beforeon my last project so I definitely got blind sided on this one. Checked out the Efi harness wiring and made sure that the wires that needed to come on in the ON position did and the wires that needed all time power did and everything checked out ok. Didn't really clean connections and plugs so that's next. The dropping resistor that plugs in the harness I haven't even looked at I left it connected the whole time. How would I go about testing to see if it's good? On a side note. I'm running an 81ecu off an automatic now swapped BW t5. Can I plug in a manual 82 zxt ecu to test? I know the 82+ cas is in the distributor so not quite sure if I would need to change anything to run a 82/83 ecu

Hey guys. So Ive previously done a L28et swap previously back in the day and car ran fine. Just did another 81 L28et swap into my series one 240z and got it all bolted up and cranking. Now, on the donor car the car started up and ran up and down the block before I took it apart( 2 years ago) so things seemed all functional at least back in the day. Issue I'm running into is the car won't come on. And when it does start briefly, it dies within 3 seconds. I Bought a new fpr and verified that there is fuel and pressure (36psi) while car is off and in the ON position. There is verified spark in all 6 sparkplug wires. I've got two separate grounds on the engine so engine and car is well grounded. I also took the fuel rail off and verified that while cranking the Injectors are indeed spraying and there isn't infection leaks. Below is a YouTube video link I uploaded for your viewing pleasure haha. The ECU light seems to come on then shut off after cranking and sometimes intermittently the Injectors will stay on buzzing even if I stopped cranking. Anyway, any idea what's going on? https://youtu.be/p-DhNG0mq7E Your help is Much appreciated!

Cool this will be my plan b if I can't figure out the stock wiring. I'm actually following the original 81 harness swap build thread posted on here. But dude doesn't mention where the wire for the actual fuel pump gets spliced into the harness

Looking for where my power + green wire from the fuel pump connects to

Old post I know I've read through the whole thing and for the likes of me can't find on the 81 harness install what wire GOES TO THE FUEL PUMP + itself. Help!

I thought so too man, apparently either they were custom or something but they're out there. And if they are... I want um! Lol

Hey everyone. In the market for a set of 4 Longchamps for my Z. 15" is cool, 16" would be even better hit me up if you have or know of someone/ someplace Lookin for 9 front 10 rear and a nice mean negative offset on them. Located in San Diego

I'll look into that miles thanks

Seems like the 280zx brake line system is definitely a beast on its own when it comes to adding an adjustable prop valve. The proportion valve for the rear is located in the passenger side fender. Problem lies that that same part feeds the passenger side wheel? So weird.... I'm pretty sure the wheel isn't getting mixed in with the fluid going to the rear. But that's definitely an inconvenience gonna have to figure something out

I want a an adjustable proportion valve for the rear for exactly that reason, so I can OPEN the flow more than is offered by the restrictive factory one and allowing me to max out the rear force and not have as bad a brake bias (even if it's still not that good maxed out). At least it would be an improvement from running oem prop valve but Yeah man I switched over everything from the 81 zx donor and noticed the routing and distribution is different on the set up. I'll definitely check out the fsm. As I have to find out if the rear block in the jack is a distribution block and not a prop valve and can just leave it as is. In comparison to the 240z one.

Hey yall,i Looked all over for the answer to my question but no luck sourcing out directions. I recently swapped the ENTIRE 1981 280zxT brake line system along with the 280zx 15/16 MC on to my 70z. Everything is stock from the donor car. I recently swapped on the S12W 4 piston calipers and 300zx vented rotors as well, regardless of many saying its not technically an "upgrade" I've ran into other good reviews about the set up so I'm giving it a go. I'm in the midst of swapping the rear 280zx calipers and disk conversion to the 70z and read up on the recommendation for the adjustable proportional valve. Ive seen the info for swapping the adjustable prop valve for the 240z brake system. But I noticed the components and distribution is set up differently for the 280zx. Where's the stock proportion valve I need to remove/swap for the wildwood/aftermarket adjustable one? And is the block that goes on the rear passenger side block just a distribution block or does that need to be removed as well?

Bump. Still no luck sourcing set

Yeah man those are definitely steep on price. If weather is nice I'm planning on hitting the local junkyard and see if I get lucky. Not trying to cough up 200 AND have to source out different calipers and rotors on top of that. Missing link for me right now is the bracket.

Good looking out brother. I was peeping those out and I shot them an email regarding what material they were made out of and what was the deal with the 4 different caliper mounting bolts. Figure aluminum might be too weak for the job the bracket does no?

Got some 280zx calipers and rotors and would like to swap them on my 240z. Hopefully someone out there can hook me up with the maxima caliper brackets. Would like to put the 300zx rotors on it but if you only have the one that clears stock 280zx rotors. Thatl do.

Thanks for the heads up brother. Looked up 260z hubs and found they looks like 240z but with 280z dimensions. Would you happen to know if the wheel bearings are interchangeable? If not I might have to rip those apart and make sure I'm not putting 240z parts into 260/80 parts. Haha

Yup those are my kind of hubs alright.... Standing by for the new spacers to arrive. I'll slap those on and update results. God I hope I was sent the right rotors for the 84 300zx zx

News update. T3 re emailed me rectifying their information about the spacers. The smaller ring is for the 260/280z and the wider one for the 240z which makes sense. So that would mean somewhere along the lifeline of my car, that previous owner subbed in 260z hubs/strut assembly maybe? ... Hmm interesting. Either way T3 is swapping them out free of charge and I'll update results. Looking forward to finishing the front already so I can piece my rear end together

Took some pictures as requested to show where the rubbing occurs. It's inside the caliper on the valley where the rotor is supposed to be centered and spins . if I begin to tighten the caliper bolts the sidewall presses the rotor. And As you can see these is a huge gap between the spindle and the caliper when I center the caliper in the rotor accordingly.