~KnuckleDuster~
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Posts posted by ~KnuckleDuster~
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Straight from Japan, Nismo solid shifter. Had positive reviews and non of the downsides of a short shifter.
Features:
By hardening the inner rubber of a standard shift lever, the amount of deflection is decreased. At the same time, the lever length was reduced by about 7.5mm, providing a stroke 10% shorter. This changes the rather soft touch of a standard car to a much more precise, fast feeling. At the same time, while the goal is to change to a quicker shift, an overly short shift stroke will result in poor, heavy shifting. Unlike a quick shift, the lever ratio has not been changed, so the transmission synchro is not effected and a moderately faster degree of shifting is possible. Installation is easy because the solid shift has the same basic dimensions as a standard shift.
Update: Looks like I ordered the wrong part due to a poor description. I ordered the one for DET/DETT. I have the proper one ordered now.
I originally ordered 32839-RN595 and I needed 32839-RN40
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Install was a breeze thanks to this thread. I ended up using the stock sliders and seating position feels pretty close to what the stockers were at.
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Decided to get a proper seat. I like the oem look but I was sliding all over the place in the corners which doesn't exactly inspire confidence. I went with the Sparco R100 from the ease of install and oem like appearance. I used modified stock seat sliders and re drilled mounting points. The seating position is pretty much where the stock seats were, I was hoping to sit a little lower but this works just fine and I'm 6' 3". Ditched the 43 year old sun faded seat belt for a matching 3 point harness bolted to the stock locations.
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I can't find it sorry..must have thrown it out
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I'm pretty sure that's it. I'll dig it out tomorrow..hopefully I still have it.
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I have a 2 row from an L28 but both the belt grooves are the same size. $35 shipped
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Looking clean! Cant wait to see some video once she comes to life again.
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This website may be of help. I ordered my clsd r200 from them and was very pleased with the quality and shipping / packaging.
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Nice work, RB's just look so natural in an s30. Do you plan on doing anything with the rear diff?
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Can anyone tell me a part number for water pump/alt belt on a street version damper? Stock looks like a 39", the race version looks to run a 33" belt so I'm pretty sure I need a 31" belt but if anyone has a part number off hand it would save me some time. Thanks
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Edit: 2/29/2016
Did some routine maintenance today. To get some of the fluids that were left over in the engine out. I changed the oil after the first few drives and it came out creamy brown. It was sitting for who knows how long so this was my second oil change within a hundred miles or so and it looks a lot better this time around. Coolant was looking a little brown as well so I flushed that out as well and put in some fresh coolant in.
There's a couple different OEM oil filters you can get for the RB series.. 15208-53J0A is what you will find when you look up what filter to use. 15208-55Y0A is what I prefer to run since the filter is twice the size.
I also replaced the fuel filter to a 16400-N7605-JP which is for the 300zx, 280zx ect.
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ATI Damper is here. I wanted to replace the stock pulley mostly for the weight reduction benefits but the oem damper is also a part that can wear over time and if it fails can destroy your whole motor if out of balance. I've invested time and money into naturally aspirated sr20's in the past and reducing any rotational mass from the crank will result in better throttle response and a sense of a lighter car. In a turbo application you probably won't "feel" much of a difference with mods such as this but when n/a the change is quite noticeable. The ati damper is small in diameter so I'll need to run a small belt, and should be 5 to 8 lbs. lighter. I will weigh both and find out exactly.
You can contact ATI directly and they can make you a damper with only one accessory belt for even more weight loss but it will cost you more money for them to custom build one. I opted for the off the shelf model with 2 row pulley even though I'll just be using one belt. Model 918598.
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Finding any n/a rb motor for sale in general seems like a hard task lately.
Matt, what made you decide to go away from the turbo L series? Are you still keeping that motor around?
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This engine is about to go into my 240z after I return from Christmas Vacation.
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So I've come to the conclusion the 3.9 ratio R200 isn't doing the job. The gears are still quite tall. In my previous Z I had a 4.11 r180 which suited the RB trans very nicely. Well I came across a differential that will be a little more wild that that.. a 4.375 R200 w/ LSD. Wasn't cheap but it should make a big difference.
The diff comes from an HR31 which was the first skyline to be equipped with the RB motor (rb20). The n/a RB25 trannys are the same as rb20's so it should be a perfect match without having to worry about too high of RPMs on the highway. The added benefit of the CLSD will make powering out of corners a night and day difference as well.
Looks like the outer seals are new and original paint on the housing shows very little wear.
Come to find out an R34 with RB25DE motor has a 4.364 rear end, so with this new diff I'll be getting it back to normal. Here's some info I found online:
Final drive options ; /top speed / ft-lbs at wheel in 4th
3.357 ---------------- 385km-------68.5
3.538 ---------------- 365km-------72
3.692 ---------------- 350km-------75
3.917 ---------------- 330km-------80
4.083 ---------------- 317km-------83.35
4.111 ---------------- 314km-------83.91
4.364 ---------------- 296km-------89
4.375 ---------------- 295km-------89.3
4.636 ---------------- 279km-------94.6
4.900 ---------------- 264km-------100 -
I was admiring your glovebox gauge holder. Do you remember where you got it?
Thanks
It's just a generic 2 pod holder. Found on ebay for around $10.
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I have a damaged P90 head as well. Shipping might not be as bad since I'm in cali..
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Coming out for the winter
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Well here's the result from raising my rear end up. I think it's just a little to high at the moment and needs to be dropped down a pinch but it's getting there. I also have 280z rear strut mount insulators now which raised the rear up but the lack of negative camber is bothering me. I'm not sure if the taller insulators are a result of my camber change or not. I got a set of MSA control arm camber adjustment bushings and went to get an alignment with intentions of getting a degree or so of negative camber but they said they couldn't do it. I'm thinking they didn't know what they were doing so maybe Ill have to try a professional shop for a proper alignment. What do you guys think?
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I got back to working on my glove box gauges. I ditched the boost gauge for a dedicated vac gauge. Don't have any use for the switch panel right now...looks kinda cool though.
Wired everything in and works really well for me. Easily visible from the driver seat and totally hidden when I want it to be. AFR's seem to be good ..13.1 at WOT.
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Why the change in direction? Just bored?
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I think he means one with no damaged fins. Dislexica.
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I've been spending my time sorting out all the vacuum issues I came across recently. My friend who dropped the motor in asked me if I wanted him to clean up all the unnecessary vac lines that were no longer needed and I said sure. Well he went a little to far and removed and blocked off some very important things. First there's a variable air intake control solenoid valve which is in place to open the butterfly valve in the intake manifold @ around 4700 rpm which aids in increasing low end torque. This valve was removed and the butterfly valve had direct vacuum which had it stuck open. Once I got the solenoid back in place the low end felt much better.
Next the car seemed to be running rich and the idle would dive and make the car shutter a bit when coming to a stop and pressing the clutch in. Came to find the idle air control valve's vacuum source was blocked off. He most likely did this because the iacv requires it's air source from the air intake and I didn't have a vac port on it. I ordered a self sealing vac nipple to fit right into a silicone coupler. Had to order it from the UK..I didn't come across any US company's that made these unless I didn't look hard enough. Got the vac lines all attached and no more idle dip. Here's a pic of the vac port installed
So now the car is running pretty danm smooth. The 3" exhaust with just a resonator was a bit too loud so I swapped the resonator out for a Jones Turbine muffler. Much deeper now and got rid of some of the excessive noise.
Near future items will most likely be a 4 piston front brake kit..I've been putting off the brakes for too long now..and I want an ATI harmonic dampener. I can get the race model with none of the accessory belts needed. Should give me some increased response.
On a side note I finally got around to buying a ground control adjustment wrench and I've raised my rear end up an inch or so. No more rubbing now and wheel gap is on point.
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Nice! Thanks for doing all the leg work. I really like that white Datsun pickup with the skyline front.
240Z complete manifold and carbs
in Parts Wanted
Posted · Edited by ~KnuckleDuster~
I paid $300 for a complete working set of round top carbs a few months ago.