piston

i got about 2 inches from rim to strut. got plenty of clearnces. i pretty much just fliped the mesh the other way around. im not sure how safe its going to be but the previouse owner flipped them at one point also.

i run use to run sacramento raceway all the time and run fomoso a week later since i use to live in between the 2. fomoso has either a dirty air quality or something because i run in the high 12.9s constantly @117mph, 3 different visits. it runs 12.2s at sac raceway all day, this is 2 different visits. this is all mix in between. yes, i use to race that hardcore back then. its not he car, its the track. sacramento also has been known to have a better prepped race tack compare to fomoso. them domestic guys do a crappy prep job for the imports at fomoso. its almost like a hating game..once in a while i go out there with buddies of mine to fomoso for test and tune and they still pull about .6-7 seconds slower then sac.

whats up guys...i finally got some pics on flipping the rims for negative offsets. i posted a while back but had no pictures and now have pics just thought i might show you guys what i was talking about. i seen a couple guys doing the same thing here but cant find there pics anymore to show you all what we were doing. pictures speaks better than words. so here it is. flipped inside lip to outside and small outside lip to inside.. heres a picture of the rims on the car. the ones in the fronts are before i fliped them and the ones in the back are after flipping them. i know it looks kinda funny because the cars not drop yet and tires is inflated. it now sticks out perfect about 2 inches. perfect for zg flares like i had planned. plenty of shock/backspace clearance. i know it will be eating up the bearings but im sure it wont eat it up that bad. the rims are jdm 3 piece dynalite...super ultra rare for some reason. never seen another set ever. but then again, it just looks like another ssr reverse mesh. i also now have a deep 4 1/2inch lip. im loving it!!!!

im sure on this, this guys never touched the thing. rich kid, bought a brand new one from the dealer. wish i could of had the one on the crate. if it wasnt right from the factory, this thing would of never been in the car and never would of functioned to make it through the years. bearings on the t56 dont just go out of place and misalign, unless its been opened or messed with because the tranny case hold everything so tight in place. t56 are build tough and rare to break from my learning/searching experience. i think bad things might of happened when i opened it! this guys just happens to have a 95 transam lt1 t56 from his mom. when i first picked it up, this thing has no signs of loosen bolts and lock tight still on the 2 allen screws, im sure its never been rebuild or opened before from my point of view. well, if its been opened or messed with, i got jack. plus i only got it for 200 bucks on a hustle. worth a learning rebuild experience! to find out i didnt do a good enough job i guess.

i should be in the 10s soon as soon as i get my car running and tuned. im sure with 150 shot i should be in the 10s with some m/t slicks or some drag radials. but, probably going to stick to high mid/high 11s w/out nitrous. never ran nitrous in my life, but a hella lot of boost on old projects! ill see what the lt1 does all motor first! sac raceway is known for offering good timeslips! .6 to .8 faster difference then fomoso raceway in bakersfield.

i know about the bearing clearance. the manuals say its not neccesary to clearcance the bearings as long as they are not removed. im not sure if its true or not but what their trying to say kinda makes sense since its in its original pressed dept, its not neccesary to clearance it since it was never removed or moved out of the original spec. does that make sense??? hard to explain.

well, when you think of it, if either way you have to smog it, i say go for a later model s30 chasis and covert the bumpers. you will find a cleaner and non rusted one for a better price and stiffer chasis and more room to work with when it comes to tranny tunnel clearances. the weight is a a little heaver, but to me, its the bumpers since they weigh like 50lbs each. like datsun lover mentioned, it has a better rear diff and more than likely to find one with less rust. remember, needs to smog anyways, so i say go for the later model s30..

wow, thats just totally sucks if the cutoff is 67. that means you must state ref, have all smog parts and cats and everything else. yeah, i do find zs here everywhere. as for the looks, yes, the 240z looks better because of the small bumbers and more of a original first gen look. the 280z has a stiffer chasis and easier for swap from what ive seen. stock compare to v8. i would say the v8 is going to make you not want to go back to stock motor. torque and sound and power and everything is all there uner the hood with the v8..

man, thats some nasty pics, but unfortantly, i think the tranny is up for grabs! it has alot of new parts in it. im not sure how it can happen but i filled it up with fluid tonight and tested it again. i dont even have to use the clutch and it goes into 1 through 6 and reverse. the 5-6th still makes the grinding noise but stop shortly after it is in gear. this is wierd. im not sure whats going on anymore. i mean, i can just shift and it will go in gear without even stepping on the clutch. what the heck is going on here. im using a tilton 7/8 master cylinder and a f1 stage1 clutch with new throwout bearing and everything. this is crazy. i dont get it. i better see metals all over when i pull it appart cause then if i see nothing, this tranny is curst. i even test shifted it with the case off before putting it all back together and the syncros seems to slide from 1st to second perfect and the 3rd to 4th perfect and even 5th to 6th...the syncros locks it all in when i tested it but whats up with not stepping on the clutch? i know i got a bigger problem but not sure how this can be. i spent 3 months building this tranny making sure everything was in place and even tested it like 100 times before putting on the tranny case. i guess building tranny isnt my thing....damn it....this sucks..knowing i have all the new parts in it and not work. what can cause it to go into gear without even stepping on the clutch?

you guys were in sacramento and didnt call me! shame on you! congrats on the run. damn, wish i could of been there, i live like 10 mins away from sacramento raceway.

your picture for sure is definantly not what i saw when i pulled the trans! wow, thats real grinder there... believe it or not, my 5-6th gear cluster does sit pretty loose. i thought the same thing when i installed it, theres not enough room to press it in, not enough teeth like i said on the main shaft to get a good press in lock. the rings actually did go on so i left it the way it was thinking thers only one way to install this! my magnets did not look nothing like the pic. it has little and very minimal deposits on it only. you can say, metal dust!

hahaha,,no...everytime i log in, and when it redirects me, it seems like a fresh page with no member name in the member name area on top right corner. it takes me like 10 times just to make a post and when i type a whole page to find out i cant post because its already been logged off, and also cant copy and paste, man, this thing piss me off. thats why it takes me 2-3 hours just to make a post or reply. after 5 times of trying to logg in even though it says thanks for loggin in, it still dosnt work.

when i bought the tranny and took off the rear cover, there was no signs of damage anywhere but some worn blocker rings and that was it. the magnets had very little deposits which looks normal compare top other t56 magnets ive seen in forums. i dont think the counter shaft is toated since it wasperfect when in pulled it in the first place, when i installed it, i pour fluid onto the gears itself but that doesnt mean anything, and i also lubed everything including the gear teeths with moly lube. i remember clearly when in installed the 5-6 gear cluster, it had a little play in it and seems like it wasnt pressed in deep engough. would that cause this problem. jbc3, i know what you mean by the spline openning where the 1-4 locks into the 5-6 shaft. when it happened from the previouse owner, its the same thing happening as what i discribed, i expected the same thing but when i took it appart, the lock teeth on the end shafts looks normal. no chip or anything. well, the engine is in and eveything is all wired up nice and neat, let me get this thing on the road and drive on the 1-4 for the moment just to make me happy! i hate pulling the trans while the enigne is still in, since its all in nice and neat already, ill just use it for the measurments for the driveshaft and tranny mount and get this thing on the road and see what happens.

unfortanantly, i tested it bone dry(no more then 30 seconds). im sure its not going to work since the grind sounds like the 5-6th gear drive is just spinning around the main shaft. i pulled the 5-6th gear drive with the gear puller when i took it off and when i went back to install it, i think i didnt press it down enough to get a good solid grip around the teeth on the main shaft to lock it in tight. it might of slipped out but who knows. the t56 is a pretty hard trans to understand and when you open it up and take everything out, it looks like hell. i might just use the 1-4 gears and avoid the 5-6th gears. i dont even know if reverse works. the previouse owner says all the gears worked except 5-6th. they share the same gear cluster. as of right now, the 5-6th goes into gears but makes that grinder noise like a blender blending some ice or something. ill just let it be for now and see what happens when i drop it off the jacks and put in the driveshaft. i tested it dry with no drive shaft and on jack stands for a quick test. 1-4 has hardly no machanical sound to it but the others annoys me just hearing it disapoints me. the money and time alone, spent on rebuilding this tranny, i could of bought a decent used one already but i thought i might of wanted a tougher trans and so i bought the rebuild kit with all new syncros and rings and also got a 3-4 steel shift fork and 1-2 and 3-4 new gears and new syncronizers. must of been over 500-600 just in parts alone. feels like a waist of parts, labor, time and money. love-my-v8-280z.--..are you saying you had the trans for 4 years and never used 5-6th gears? im using the car for city use, you guys think i can get away with no 5-6th for now? whats the top speed for 4th anyways? 70mph? agolphart--you ask.. I'll assume that you bought a small parts package and changed out any needle bearings involved. Since the trans uses tapered roller bearings, is there a procedure for centering/ setting end play? according to the manual, its not neccesary to set the endplay if you dont replace the bearings. i didnt replace the bearings on this one since it still looks good. i wouldnt want to mess with the bearing in the first place because setting end play and removing and installing the bearings is a PITA. Could it be that what you are feeling is normal? for sure the feeling is not normal. 1-4 didnt make any noise, it wouldnt make any since for 5-6th to make that noise. i could be wrong and i wish it is normal. thanks for all the replies and wish me luck.

im not sure why it keeps doing this, but when i go to post, even logged in with member name, after hours of typing something or trying to help out other members or ask questions, it says i dont have permission to post and my member name disapears and says i need to logg in! sometimes, i have to log in 5 to 6 times just to be logged in. even with name and password, it says thanks for logging in, then when it automaticly goes to the next page, member name dispears and shows user name again, meaning i cant post and would have to log in again. whats up with this? is it my computer or is it the site?

man...after so many hours and work put into this piece of $hit tranny, i cant believe the 5th and 6th grinds before it goes into gear. i can hear the teeths touch and i dont even know if its going to engage or not. the previouse owner of the t56 told me it would go into gear (5th-6th) but wont go catch. it just whistles..damn...i bought new gears, steel shift fork, new blocker rings and syncros for this thing and spent 100s of hours of work and labor into rebuilding this thing and now it looks like its not going to work. after rebuilding the trans, it seems like its no different from when i recieved it from the previo0use owner. the car is still on jackstands and i tested the gears real quick with the tranny dry. 1-4th works perfect real smooth. 5th-6th and reverse has the grind. i rebuild it myself and when i opened it, the 5-6th gear looks perfect, thers no sign of grinding or anything, test shifted with the end case open and the fork shifted the gears into place but dont know whats up. this thing is getting me frustrated, i feel like im about to give up on the z. i might just blow the crap out of the trans and buy a new one or put it up for sale for anyone who might be interested and fixing this little problem. i know its something little but i give up on this tranny rebuild...it has so many brand new goodies inside of it too. anyone have any inputs on this??? i might just drive this on 1-4 daily...its sad...

i had the same issue with my headers also, but im using cheap headers but still, it doesnt clear. my pcm was programed to run only one knock sensor so i went ahead an deleted the one interfearing with the header flange which is the passenger side since it only needed one. i couldnt even take it out cause it would just spin around without the sensor reversing out so i sawzaw the thing and grinded it. heres a pic of the passenger clearance befor the saw action.. and heres the driver side...barely made it... pcm america did my programing and he said i can go ahead and run only one sensor since the computer is for a camaro and it only uses one sensor itself and should have no problem. well, i hope this is true. i havent yet drove the car yet so ill wait and see whats up.

its a caprice wiring harness so the pcm is in the front and the rest goes into the firewall into the fuse block under the passenger side dash. ill post up some more pics when i get home..

well, i found out my problem. i dont know how it could of happen but the rest of the injectors that wasnt working had no ignition hot running to them. i did the wiring myself and hooked them all up into one and ran it to a 7.5amp fuse to the fuse block. it all should of work, but when i hooked up ignition hot (seprate wires) to the the positive injector pink wire on each of the injectors that didnt work, the engine fired right up. awsome sound! i guess thats something simple and ill be redoing the wiring again. heres a quick pic...