piston

maybe my tach is off??? and the pcm for sure needs to be retuned. when i shift at 6500k, it hits pretty hard in all the gears like its suppose to, or maybe it can hit even harder? the tach is an autometer 5inch tach suposedly made for 4-6-8 cyl vehicles. it idles at 1500k but the motor sound like its at 7-800rpm. you can hear its not too high but then again, its my first v8 so im not too sure either. my tires are 225-55-16 rears and 205-55-16 fronts. the rpm on this thing just jumps so fast that it looks like im not getting all the hp out of the gears. im running a t56 from a 95 lt1 camaro. the rear end is off of a 82zx with 3.90 gears. im not sure its the diff because it wasnt so high with the stock datsun 5spd. believe it or not, in 5th on the highway, it sounds like its high in 5th, just the sound, its almost believable the rpm is correct. but i have no carpet so the sound is extremely loud, its just bare floorboards and that also interfears. to think of it, it almost sounds like ill be done with the 1/4 mile in the end of 5th gear. sounds like the cars going to fall appart @ 90mph and its also a negative feeling and ill put it into neutral for my own safety. ill be checking into the tach and looking into purchasing tuner cat...thanks for all response...

im just curiouse what gear do you t56 guys finish the 1/4 with...my 1st gear climbs and spins tires without even reving...the rpm clibs way too fast. im cruising on the highway in 6th at 3800-4000k rpm at 75-80mph. i think thats a little high isnt it? if i leave it in 5th, its at 5000-5500k at 70-75mph... the car for some reason idles at 1500k. hasnt been tuned yet though but i was just curiouse cause it doesnt feel too fast to me. i have the lt4 cam with 1.6rr. and lt4 springs. im going to say it redlines at 6400k. my r200 is a 3.90...what do you guys think?

on the camaro, the temp is on the driver side and the caprices had them on the passenger side...

i think i would be happy with those numbers already myself...thats a pretty high 350 lt1 hp...i seen 383s with the same amount of hp...nice numbers bart...i think with any higher than that, youll be doing cicles at the autocross...

either way, i would assume if air is running through the radiator core at highway speeds, it should cool it better compare to off the highway...

the last thing i can think of why my car is running crappy was because my rockers were too tight and my valve were not closed all the way...

mines on there but not hooked up...never went into reverse. can probably take it off and good to go...

i hope the passenger side is suppose to be hotter or richer then, because my exhaust manifold ir more gold and hotter on the passenger side compare to driver. i always thought my pcm or injectors were off..

are you sure the o2 sensors from left to right would make a difference? they are the same sensors left and right! exhaust gas comes through same on both sides, i would assume it wouldnt make any different...or is one side of the exhaust gas is acutally richer than the other? because then, how would the pcm tell the difference between left and right? just a thought!

i did mines using jtr measurements...

im wondering if ther is no timming marks, then how in the heck does an average person check the timming on the lt1? i could of swore in my haynes manual, it shows a timming gun checking the timming on the enine but i need to double check that one. that sucks and that also explains my off timming lt1 running like crap. wheelman, on mine, i think i did what you where refering to speeder anout using the opti. turn the cam and have the pin direct then turn the pin on the opti to match the tdc mark on the opti but i think on non vented ones like the long block i just got from a 94, it doesnt have the marks on the opti.

the engine looks to me like it doesnt have any timming marks except for the edge of the harmonic balancer, thers little cuts on the edge im assuming its the timming marks. i havent done the timming on mine yet myself but about the damper, if your talking about the harmonic hub, its pressed on or more like forced on by using the bolt to work it back onto the crank. on mine, i had to make sure the cam was in tdc and need the dist. to be removed in order to see the tdc mark on the cam. pin pointing right at 180*. beside that, im not sure on the timming also. ill be second on the question..

i got the same ebay cheapies...i got them in chrome and got paid later in gold...they work alright for the bucks...something thatll keep me on the go for the moment...

holy crap..thats alot of good sh*t in the rear end. wish i got the bucks and time to do the same but engine just keeps comming back out for the third time...and hopefully final...good luck on the ls. nice job and looking good...

i talked to the guy and he said he had it custom installed and im assuming it has tube chasis rear because he also has a 12 pointer that hell throw in for an adition 300.00. im sure its going to be highly recomended...the car havent yet seen the road with the rear set up...so that is another neg for me. his buddy has the same set up in his z..rear put in by the same fabricator and has no issue. i still think its sick ass from the rear view on the streets...ill be ready to down shift if i see him comming up..

i know this might be the wrong forum but i had to show. anyways, i was scrolling through craigslist and came across this and hoping someone here pics it up and do something with it. the guy selling this has never been on this website but had the inteligents to build this car, he has never even heard of jtr or scarab set up, i ask myself where in the heck did he get all his information? i was going to buy it but the body might be a little too rusty compare to my 280z. the rear end is where all the work kicks into play, i wish i can change it over but dont have the funds and welding time...2g is a steal..located in marysville ca..pretty cool guy... http://sacramento.craigslist.org/car/348696372.html

nice work...love the fuel cell, love the original jtr radiator with bracket...how long have you been working on the car???

i would think it wouldnt make any difference in the oil pan....

its not the mm brackets im concern about, im concern about the factory maxima brackets not fitting. on the sticky on top of the forum, it shows that with the maxima brackets, you would have to modify the bracket ears and bore out the center hole to 82mm to fit. i know about the third whole being cut off already to save time on not removing the stubs. i just want to make sure this will fit because when i took it all appart just for measurements, it really looks like i would need to bore out the center whole to make it work. heres a thread about modding the brackets...im i missing something or are other other factory brackets that'll work??? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102340&highlight=rear+brakes

yeah, i had the serp belt on and ran it in the garage for a good minute. as soon as i took it out of the garage, i heard wierd idle problems, then i shut it off and the harmonic w/ hub just fell off and tore up the belt. the harmonic and hub was sitting on the street...im sure it wasnt enough to dmaged anything.. i never wanted to weld on the hub also, but i had just actually replaced the chain, and all the seals on the front cover. i had to take out the crank anyways for for a new one so i figure ill just weld on the hub for last option to see if itll work for the moment and be able to drive this thing, cranks comming out anyways right! so i welded it on. i figured if i had to take it out anyways, lwhy not try welding it and run it like that for a while. i was so close to tunning it with tunercat and got all excited too, then it leaked, had to replace seals, then crank bolt broke...now it just sits until i move out to a bigger house sometime this week before i get started again. im always updated, but i didnt even get the chance to tune the original motor to run right, so the next build would be a little longer progress... i put in over 8 hours of drilling and used over 20 high speed steel drill bits, after thinking, what a waist of time and drill bits.

wheelman, i did the same thing, but unfortunantly, the friggen easy out wasnt so easy to get out when it broke into the bolt itself. that thing would not drill at all. i was so pissed off, the easy broke and that was pretty much it. i welded a harden steel onto the end of the bolt and heated it and tried to turn it out, the bolt just broke little by little. i then bored the harmonic hub and slide if onto the crank itself and mig that thing on, and it looked pretty promissing since i have to take the thing out anyways, i decited to weld it onto the crank itself. i started the motor and it ran like normal, then, as soon as radiator and collant was pored in and drive out of the garage, it broke and fell off on the driveway, the weld peeled of from the crank along with little pieces off the crank. i just pushed it back into the garage and call it a day, or month you can say. i have nop choice but to replace the crank, so 383 comes to mind, i know i dont need all that hp for the car, but a lt1 383 just sounds so sick ya....

mine shakes and stops frequently. im not sure whats wrong with it, it vibrates at acceleration but stops at crusing. then sometimes it just doesnt vibrate at all. all three of whats listed is probablymy problems. im not sure why it does it at low speeds sometimes and stops. i have old stub axles and joints. not too confident on driveshaft. and for sure old bushings with unbalanced wheels.

those are my dream wheels. they are ccw's. pretty expensive but worth the money if your a wheel guy...

im just going to put the stroker in it and try find me a set of aluminums with the lt4 kit. same lt4 cam...i might boost the thing, so the lt4 is enough for now and not too much over lap for boost.

nice pic deja...reminds me of my engine...anyways, i have my egrs blocked off with some 3/8 plates. took off the smog pump+brackets. and also that evap solenoid thing on the intake manifold. im sure it has to gain a little since alot of the stuff isnt being used meaning more power to the motor. i have everyting capped off on the manifold and runing it as plain as possible. but unfortanantly, my computers not tuned, my crank bolt broke into the crank, and no harmonic balancer so engine sits at the moment...new crank and internals going in. and this time, a 3.75 crank is probably going in with 5.7 h beam rods and hyper pistons going in with ported aluminum heads. not going to be running for a while but oh well, at least i got the chance to drive it!!!