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HybridZ

ThreeMoneyJ

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Everything posted by ThreeMoneyJ

  1. I have a P82 intake manifold that is non EGR. It is webbed and not shaved. I bought it off another member here a while back and never used it. One recently sold for $60 on this forum, so I would like $60.
  2. Where are you located? I have one in The San Francisco area
  3. I would like to see a CF windshield wiper cowl that isn't louvered. (the panel between the windshield and hood that the wipers come out of) It doesn't have too many contours so it may be easy to produce. Also, the front with the turn signals filled in for the 75-78 cars
  4. Their website looks like they do good work. Can those who have gone here post their results when done. If it's as good as they advertise I'll definetly send some business their way.
  5. This seems to be turning into a "why a Z car is worth it and my experience with them" thread I'll second the feeling that everyone seems to have about the car being a people magnet. It's seems every time I mention my car to a stranger (getting parts, insurance renewal, tow company etc ) they always get excited and have some story involving a Z in their younger days. The car seems to bring a smile to everyones face no matter where it goes ( and to be truthful it's not in that great of shape!)
  6. If you were planning on spending $2k to switch to carbs...... You could buy something really nice like the extrudabody individual throttle body set up It has the neat multiple carb look if that's what you want.... On their website it's $650 for a twin ITB set up or $1900 for the 6 ITB set up. Of course you would need a few more things to make it all work, but I'm just living vicariously through your $2000
  7. The loom doesn't need to be cut. You can feed it through the firewall from the engine side, but you will need to do it part by part so it fits as opposed to trying to shove the whole thing through at once.
  8. It's good that you have realistic goals for what you want out of your car. Street oriented performance is an obtainable goal. IMO that means reliability, which is what I would aim for. Do you have a price range and budget in mind? If you don't yet, then set a budget and try to stick to it =) I would do modifications that you can build upon. An example of this would be some sort of engine control (EMS). This would allow you to get the most out of any future mods. With that being said, an intake and exhaust are also good mods to build on, and will probably give you more gratification (you can hear and see them!) The stock EFI system is hampered and cluttered by a restrictive air box, AFM, and small throttle body. IMO one of the best ways to clean/clear up that problem is with......... you guessed it, aftermarket EMS!
  9. I had the same problem. It looked like the previous owner had used a bottle jack on the floor of the car in an attempt to lift the car. I used a piece of 2x4 board against the floor, then hit the wood with a really big hammer until the dent was smoothed out.
  10. I don't have that option. I tried the steps you suggested, and I have Change Email, Change Password, Manage Notes, and Manage Attachments. I do not have the option to change display name. I did find a link in my settings that shows "Display Name History", but I was unable to find where to change my display name.
  11. I want to change my username, is there any way to do this? Thanks.
  12. I'm in CA too. As far as smog is concerned, 1975 and earlier are exempt. My 280z has been pretty reliable, and was fairly cheap. I drive 1 hr each way to the drag strip every week, then race all day and drive home. So far no major issues. Keep your eyes open for a 1975 280z IMO
  13. We should make a new thread "What I would like to buy if I didn't have to pay taxes". I have to pay, but if not..... -aeromotive stealth fuel cell -stand alone ECU -pull the l28 and drop in the vq35
  14. That is not a fuel filter. It is a fuel damper. It's there to prevent pressure surges. With a good adjustable fuel pressure regulator and pump you wont need it. One of the lines from the gas tank to the pump is your fuel feed line. One of the lines from the engine to the gas tank is your fuel return line. The other two should be vent/vapor lines which go to your liquid/vapor seperator near your gas filler neck.
  15. What are the odds of being able to get a roof smoothed? I picked up a Z for a great price, but the problem is the PO had it sitting in their garage and used the Z to stack things on So the roof is pretty wavy, and I'd like to get it fixed. Is it worth my time to try to find a paintless dent repair shop?
  16. Back to your fuel system.... I'm not sure of the similarities between the vq30 and vq35, but if you check the Jim Wolf Tech pages they show how to mod the vq35 fuel rail to support ~600hp(with bigger injectors of course). Also, the stock system is returnless(dead head). The pressure used on the vq35 is similar to the pressure used on the 99-04 corvette. 50 something psi, I don't have the #s in front of me. Look into using the corvette fuel filter/pressure regulator. It will save you time, money, and a headache. Check the v8 forum for more details on the vette fpr/filter.
  17. Title says it all. Basically I have a cut up S30 front clip that I want to use to build engine mounts. I'm missing a front crossmember and steering components to get the real fit done. Thanks John
  18. Hot Rod magazine did an article a while ago called project f-bomb camero. They powdercoated the whole car in a semi-gloss black. Then they sprayed paint over the powdercoat. The idea was the powdercoat would make a great coating under the car, inside the car, and in the engine bay. They claimed it made a great base to paint off.. "The light blasting also leaves an ideal finish for the next step, which is a little unorthodox: The bare shell is thoroughly cleaned and then powdercoated. The entire body, fenders, doors, decklid, inner fenderwells, trunk lid, and hood all get a uniform coat of black powdercoating. Carpenter says, "I don't know why people would be scared of it. If it's done right, the powdercoating adheres to the metal probably better than etching primer, and it's a great base to start block-sanding. The sanded coating lets body filler feather in very well." Also, the process seals any loose blasting media that may be caught in the tightest crevices of the car so that it cannot fall out and get in wet primer or paint later. It's possible to powdercoat a paintable primer, but we used a semigloss black that's a great finish for the underside of the car and for the engine-compartment area if you're building a street or race car rather than a show car. Those areas are easily touched up with satin black paint. It's also neat that the coating gets absolutely everywhere-under the dash, under the package tray, and in every corner of the trunk-and into places where it might otherwise be difficult to add a rust-preventive coating, especially if the car has been dipped rather than blasted. The drawbacks are expense (about $1,800 for our car, including blasting) and the fact that the baking process can be hot enough to make factory lead filler drip a bit, though there was no issue with that on our Camaro. Also, we really should have done the coating after all the fabrication work so the welders did not have to grind off the nasty stuff before welding and so the 'cage would have also been coated rather than painted." http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/fbomb/hrdp_0704_1973_chevrolet_camaro_paint_body/body_powdercoating.html
  19. As far as ITB's go, Extrudabody has a nice set up shown on their page. If I ever get around to doing some work on my swap it's the set up I would like to run.
  20. Rebello is right down the road in Antioch, you could just swing by!
  21. Add me to the 280z strap list please What measurements do you need? I need to drop my tank soon so I can try to get them.
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