Canadianz
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Posts posted by Canadianz
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Looks great, see what happens, if it cracks modify it.
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Before you get too crazy tuning or sealing check for a couple things.
1. What is your A/F ratio ? If you don't have a wideband it would be good to get one especially if you are tuning.
2. Is your MAF working correctly ? This could cause a bad A/F Ratio
3. Without a Catalytic converter your car will smell much different.
4. Are you getting soot on or around your tailpipe ? If so this is an easy check for a super rich condition.
5. Finally check and recheck for vacuum leaks. this can cause issues as well.
6. Are you running an aftermarket FPR ? Is it hooked up right and at the right pressure ?
7. As long as the PVC system is not leaking I wouldn't worry. I have even run some open to atmosphere and the smell wasn't noticeable
Don't throw money at an ECU or tuning until you have determined the cause of your problem. Fix the Rich condition then go from there.
Then once you know the problem you can fix it and seal up your car.
Hope that helps
Chris
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If you like that, you'll also like this!
Buzz saw
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You can get the information at xenonz31.com
To answer your question though, Yes the sensor will wire right in. The digital dash just needs the signal wire from the sensor, and the sensor requires a 5V power source to work, and thats all.
Cheers,
Rob
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Having worked on a bunch of early 300zx's I would say though they are strong engines, the turbo models are annoying and time consuming to work on compared to a straight six. Also the headers and crossover pipe can crack and leak on the 300zx's and thats just a pain to change, same with injectors thanks to the intake manifold. Both are good cars though. I just get annoyed at how long simple tasks take on the 300zx's compared to a straight 6.
All I know is that you can pick up a vg30 or vg33 for a couple hundred bucks. The stock bottom end is good for 500 horses so slap on a big holset and some DSM injectors and go. Dollar for dollar you cant beat the VG, and I am tired of people saying that since something is dohc its better. There are plenty of sohc motors that make big power. Last time I checked simple = reliable.
Also its a Nissan, putting a toyo motor in it is like putting a 350 Chevy in a '35 Ford. Its done all the time, but its just wrong...
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If you have a mechanical fuel pump, its possible for the diaphragm to leak fuel into the block and still function.
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Not sure why its leaking, but DO NOT use form a gasket or RTV on it. Contact with fuel will swell it and turn it into jelly over time and is great at plugging fuel pumps, filters etc. Generally, causing no end of trouble for you.
I don't know of any RTVs that are compatible with fuel, but I would be wary.
Rob
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Good to hear Chris,
Im excited to see how the car goes this season, I know she was sure quick last year.
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Looks like good work!
Also, I think having a roof makes it look much much better too. lol
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If you have no spark whatsoever, check that you have the polarity right on your VR sensor. It will not work if it backwards and is pretty easy to check by flipping the wires.
Rob
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Did you check the snout of the crank when you put the N1 pump on? Often on RB's there is a very small contact area between the crank snout and the oil pump drive, which can round off and then.... your oil pump no longer spins. I think you would have noticed it though if it was badly worn.
Thats a known weakness with RB pumps, and there are collars that you can get to expand the contact area.
Hope that helps,
Rob
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I believe its an older schneider cam. Not quite 100% on that, as I was given it by a friend. Before this motor the car had a very much stock motor, n42 head, block, dished pistons etc. etc.
I would say the new motor feels like it has more potential, and it definitely could develop more power. The problem is it just pings very easily, so to have something thats driveable on a daily basis you will probably find you're going to pull a fair bit of timing. And in that state, its very driveable, but down on power and pretty much comparable to a stock motor in my opinion. As far as throttle response, I think you will find that is more dependent on your flywheel choice and tuning of the carbs or ecu. I am running a stock lightened flywheel (around 13lbs) and triple 45mm webers, and I'm quite happy with how the car runs, drives and responds to throttle input. I do feel however it could be much better if timing could be advanced.
If I were you, I would keep your p79 on the motor, and then if you really want a hotter combo get the n42 worked on and then put it in your car. After all, its the ideal head to modify, and you'll probably be happier with the results.
Hope that answers some of your questions!
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If you search around on here, you'll find a lot of info/ discussion about this combo.
Im running this setup with a .490 lift, 290 duration cam and its fine for daily driving, and generally cruising around in. Due to the chamber design it pings VERY easily once you give it more throttle, and so you'll have to back timing off accordingly.
I'm going to run megajolt on the motor and see what I can do to get around this issue, but in the end I'll probably end up getting a better head as the current combo is not quite what I had hoped it would be.
IMO, an unmodified N42 on flat tops is not an ideal motor for the street, but to each their own.
Rob
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Thanks for that adapter. I was leaning towards the Nismo because I have my boost controller hooked up to that (I think? Arnt home to look at it right now). How would I hook up my boost controller with the Aeromotive?
Your boost controller shouldn't have anything to do with your FPR vacuum\ boost reference. That is one line you don't want to T into. It controls the rate in which your FPR will ramp under boost. Your boost controller should be referenced off your intake manifold pressure to get the most accurate idea of what the vehicle is actually ingesting, pressure wise.
The Nismo unit has gotten good reviews but you are stuck with plumbing in a gauge before hand for fuel pressure and you are stuck with stock sized, barbed lines. However the install is easy. Stock FPRs will leak over time with a strong pump as a side note.
Glad the adapter helped someone, most hot rod guys will have an aeromotive or similar fpr around the shop so its a quick way to put it to use. Oh and the "HKS" version is about 50-90$ ... so might want to stick with generic.
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Here is the part, you can go either barb or AN EJ20 adapter
The dsm guys are having great luck with the TT supra pumps, some running 600+ hp with the pumps, they are quiet and reliable too from the reviews ...
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There is an aluminum adapter you can buy for the stock rail which replaces the stock FPR with a male AN fitting. Its like 15 bucks. If you look the STi's and WRX's have a similar rail and their adapter fits our rails. At least that is what I used. No point and switching out the rail too unless you have a set of injectors too that needs a new rail as well. So go buy an Aeromotive FPR, and the adapter and your in the running for cheaper than the Nismo and have a gauge too. You might want to look into getting something like a TT Supra in tank pump or run duals. Just off the top of my head I can't think of anyone who has actually "starved" and blown up their RB on this site from improper fueling. The plumbing adds up super quick... You can always just cut and weld a sump on your tank, put the supra pump in a rack and presto. A solid fuel setup without running a mortgage's worth of AN fittings.
Yes you will have to eliminate the stock fpr.
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This may be unlikely, but check what type of oil you put in it. I know Nissan gearboxes don't shift well with certain types of gear oil due to the materials used in the synchros. I believe they like GL-4 oils but I would have to double check.
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A safe bet as well is to check the Manuals that AEM sells with their plug and play units for the RB series of engines. The plug and play AEM computers hook right up to the factory clip so you know they are correct.
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Unisyns are well known for synching carbs, but there are better tools that are just as cheap.
You can try looking up an STE style flowmeter. They are quite accurate and won't restrict air to the carb the way a uni-syn does when its in use.
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I looked for an ignition relay but because of the Power FC, there isn't one. The only thing I can think of now is bad grounds, but that wouldn't explain the fact that I still drove it for the rest of the day...
I would also check your fuses, there is a chance you could have shorted it when it popped off. Also try just hiting the starter with 12 volts, with you car off and ecu unplugged to see if it will kickover. You may have a dead spot on the windings which will cause it to turn over sometimes but not others depending on position. Its probably wiring though if you are saying that there is no power to it when you turn the key.
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whoops forgot the link
http://speedhunters.com/archive/2010/02/10/car-spotlight-gt-gt-woodvillage-s30.aspx
That link is showing a carbed L Series with just a tilted rad. Cool car though. To do a V mount, usually the rad would be tilted opposite to the one in the article, on a downward slant. The intercooler then is usually mounted at the top of the V and the hot air is expelled through the hood through venting. V mounting does give more room to mount a bigger intercooler without restricting air flow to your radiator. However if you run a decent rad and don't oversize your intercooler, you really shouldn't have to do a V mount. They do look cool and it would help with cooling if you are running a really hot engine. However if the air is not properly routed through the cores and vented then its just a heat sink. Rotary guys often use V mounts, Im not sure if its a style thing but Im sure it really helps with the cooling of turbo'd rotarys.
Here is an example RX7 V mount kit
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Is the manifold your buying designed with both bolt patterns in it ? If so thats pretty cool, I know that the Rb20/25 both share the same pattern but the 26 is different. For simplicity I would try to go for which ever flange suits your turbo and goals best. I know that alot of guys are getting tons of power of t3 framed turbos such as the gt3170R or similar without sacrificing spool. A T3 holset might be worth a look too(hybrid). If you ever switch to a T4, it is literally a 10 minute cut and weld to change up the turbo flange, decent flanges are about 40 or 50 bucks. Read as many turbo charts as you can and figure out what would fit best for your goals and go with it. Just double check that they are indeed drilling two sets of holes so as to suit both the 20/25 and 26 heads if you want to use the manifold on both in the future.
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It looks good so far ! Should be a fun engine thats for sure. You should be just fine with that manifold, I have run one that is very similar for 3 years on my 25 and it is holding up fine. I did have to modify the wastegate runner and the turbo flange for my build just as a heads up.
Alot of the chinese stuff is okay, as long as its a simple part, headers, intercoolers, intake manifolds etc, the fit and finish is crap but it gets the job done with a bit of work. Besides at the end of the day I could buy 5 of those manifolds for the price of one Full Race or similar piece.
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For a series 2 I am using a green sticker Maf on a stock ecu. Ill double check the number. My brother and I had a similar issue and it turned out to be a combonation of an incorrect MAF and wiring pin mix up.
Cam Timing Sprocket Bolt keeps coming loose
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
I had the cam gear spin on my L28 once. In that case, the bolt did not seem to have loosened appreciably, but it was the dowel pin that wiggled out far enough for the gear to spin on the end of the cam. I ended up swapping the cam to a different head, and shimmed behind the pin to prevent it moving again. This might be a different problem from yours though, as it sounds like things really came apart on you.