Canadianz
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Posts posted by Canadianz
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If you think you might sell it at some point you could make an adaptor plate. Thats what I did, it works fine and I can always sell the whole unit to a Skyline guy if I sell my stuff for some reason or another.
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Hey guys,
I just saw this build and it has to be one of the most amazing builds parts wise that I have ever seen. I mean Berylium pistions ? The car redlines at 12 k and makes over 1000hp on methonol with 2 liters. Oh and has 9000 cc injectors, 9 LITER injectors! Any how have a look see its nuts.
Here is the link !
Oh and here is the block, 8K worth of CNC'd Aluminum !
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OneThirty,
The supercharged RB sounds interesting on paper. I guess it comes down to what your goals are, if you want a small displacement engine that feels larger then a supercharger might be the ticket. If you are looking for a responsive turbo engine the other route might be a RB30 with a rb25det head and a single like a Gt 3071R or something around that size. That way you have a bit more displacement to get the turbo rolling.
Im reading this book right now and I really like it its called The Turbocharging Performance Handbook Its about 20$ on Amazon.com.
As well the same author has a book on Performance EFI Tuning Which I think will really help out on how you can go about managing a twin charged setup. The author actually covers a twincharged MR2 that has a corolla v-6 so I think that book would be ideal to wrap your head around the concept.
My advice is to write down the goals and then the easiest and simplest ways to accomplish them. I often get so excited about an idea (especially cool ones like this) that I forget why I am doing it.
Any how best of luck, its definitely a do-able project but it will require alot of planning.
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Here is my daily,
1993 Evolution GSR
Its bone stock, 130,000 Km on it and is the most fun I have had in a car, I only paid 5k for it last year. The only downside is that the gearing is so short that fuel economy is a bit less than expected. The fun factor more than makes up for it. It even came stock with a momo wheel, recaro seats and a front mount intercooler with a water sprayer like the STi's.
The pics aren't the greatest . . .
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If its not a spark issue make sure you have both the correct MAF and that its working correctly. It could be dumping fuel due to a limp mode. If there is no MAF reference then the engine will run BUT horribly.
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In Canada we run up to a 15% ethanol content in most of our gas. They call it "ethanol enriched" or something to that effect. I really wouldn't be too worried my brother and I run our Z's, one carbed with tripples and one with an RB and no problems. As well our Lancer Evo runs on it just fine (91 octane too ). I really wouldn't be too worried our cars are stored all winter, in the Z's case so thats 5 months or more sometimes and there are no horrible effects, even on the carbed engine. We used to be able to get 94 octane but with the loss of Sunoco its harder to find. It too had 15% ethanol in it. So from our experiences we have never seen any damage to our fuel systems, I am more concerned about getting a bad tank of fuel on a hot day than the alcohol content. I don't think this will change much for our American freinds as I am sure everyone tunes for whatever the best fuel available, carbed or FI. Unless you run a really bleeding edge race car or something to that effect (which would probably be tuned often anyway), there really isn't a need for concern. E85 is an entirely differnt animal in itself, which is well documented on this forum as well. So don't worry about your carbs self distructing or your gas tank melting away on a 15% blend. Its all we can run and its ok!
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I used the MSD tach adaptor and used the probe off it to hook onto I belive it was the main power to the coils for a signal. It was a bit tricky to get to work right but it works. The adaptor I used had an alagator clip like end on it that was used to pick up the signal.
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I've got a similar style of rim to that.. and I've had the same trouble trying to ID them.
The problem is, that style of rims is a pretty common one for these cars, but its a little hard to tell what they might be based on those pictures..
There are panasports, and there are watanabe's, and there are lots of knockoffs of these styles. If you can get some better images of any markings on the rims, as well as the sizes and maybe a closer look at the shape of the actual spokes (more rounded or more like a banana)then hopefully someone with more knowledge than I can help you identify the wheels.
Cheers
Rob
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Im also happy everything worked out
Glad it worked !
Any chance you could take a pic of the whole setup for a reference later ?
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First, you will need to search. It's all here from mounts to wiring, from stock to full blown. You do not need to seam weld the chassis and roll bars are not necessary. Although it never hurts to add these. I had a shop do all my work but you can buy the mounts (Rick Wong mounts, McKinney, custom, etc). For cars like ours, everything is nearly custom.
Im running the exact same Rad as you, it works great, so the problem is with your fan or thermostat. The vent to atmosphere BOV's don't seem to work that great on our RB's I am switching back to a recirc one soon. Also you could run a series one RB25det board, IF you install the coil driver and swap the coils over ( you said they were flaky anyway). Or better yet, get a Rb20det or Z32 board, socket it and go with Nistune or some other style of chip tuning. That should get you decent power, if you need to redo the board anyhow.
How did you route your cam breathers ?
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I'm about 99% sure that these plenums are made in Thailand. They frequently crop up on eBay and the company also makes different size throttle bodies. I'm not sure about that particular one, but I think at least some of them by that company have velocity stacks inside.
I have one of these manifolds on my car, well something similar. the unit I have has shorter runners though. The design was nice, they are a copy of the JUN intakes. Performance wise I don't know if you'll get a huge power increase or anything. The reason most people switch to these or the Freddy's is your intake routing is much shorter. However be aware that with the big throttle bodies the manifold is almost touching the fender. I had to get a small adapter plate made up to turn the corner. Others have suggested cutting and welding, however you kinda screw yourself on resale if you ever wanted to sell the manifold to a non datsun owner. I like mine it works fine, the only other small issue is it is awful tight underneath for all the idle air/ air regulator crap. Other wise its fine. Oh and good call on the RB20det one of the fellows here in ontario is making great power on a 20! If your looking for a good investment I would suggest Nistune and injectors and save your money for a tune. More fun and power for the money.
Here are some pics,
Cheers
Chris
Inside:
Fitment:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-sf2p/v217/155/47/72604599/n72604599_36466335_3219.jpg
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Spring Rate = 200ILBs
Anti Roll Bars=1" or more?
Tires= Hankook Ventus HR II
Rim= 17x9 up front 17x9.5 back Rota RBs
Car Weight=Average 260Z weight ? dont have car scale
No Corner Weights
No Alignment #s
Didn't realize it took so much to get a general Idea. If Corner Weighting will help and certain alignment #s for having a RB in your chassis will I am interested. But generally a seat of the pants feel from members who actually have and drive their RBZs daily.
They handle fine, even on my old beat up chassis with just lowering springs. I think you will have a ton of fun with it I wouldn't worry.
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What most people do if they want to run high HP MAF's is either use the unit from a ford lighting or use the z32 unit and seal it up with epoxy. I also have seen people make their own tubes for the wire element out of aluminum.
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I doubt its all that important, and if thats whats squeaking then its probably either worn out or needs to be cleaned. Either way, check it out and see if thats your problem. Its some sort of sensor/fan combination but I'm not entirely sure what its purpose is.
take a look at the bottom of this thread, theres a link to a picture of what Im talking about.
Cheers
Rob
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i have a 85 300Zx non turbo, and every once in a while it makes this loud squeaking noise from the interior of the car. narrowed it down to this small piece of plastic on the t-top frame, attached to the map lights. nissan dealership has no clue what it even is/ does, and its not in the manual. anyone have advice/know what this piece is and how i can make it shut up?
Im Pretty sure there's a little fan up there, I vaguely remember pulling it out of the parts car we had.
That was on an 84 AE for all its worth.
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Thanks for the advice ! Ill see if I can find a Recirculating BOV
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Hey guys,
Need some discussion on this,
I am in the process of getting everything lined up so I can get my rb25 chipped and tuned. I will run an RB20det ecu, and I wanted to know who was running a similar system and what they did about the MAF. Currently I have the system set up stock and when the blow off goes the odd time I do have the "rich" condition due to losing un metered air. Is this something that I should worry about once the system is tuned ? Also if anyone is running a blow through set up where did they place the MAF and how much straight pipe is near it ? I really don't have too much room to play with in there. Also would running a recirculating BOV be the easiest route ?
I need input !
Thanks
Here is my set up so you can see what Im talking about . . .
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I think RS Speed on this forum is using a chipped ECU on his car, its a flat black flared 280z I think (used to be white and black). Might be worth pm'ing him about it.
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I am looking at a similar route.The RB20/25/26 ecu's all have the same connectors. What is different about them is the pin outs obviously and that the 25 series one uses an external ignitor for the ignition. Basically Nissan built a bunch of boards, and just added components to them. Unfortunately the RB25det ecu's can't be chipped due to onboard memory which contains also the processor, or something to that effect
What is interesting is that the signal sent to the ignitor from the RB20 ecu or 25 series one ecu is the same. So basically on the ignitor engines the signal hits the ignitor box then fires the plugs. On non ingnitor engines, like the series 2 the same signal is sent to the coil on plug units.
I have run my RB25det series 2 for a short time on an rb20gtst ecu, with zero modifications. It started up and ran just fine, I didn't rev it or do anything else knowing the maps are totally different. As you know you can socket and tune the Rb20 ecu's, which is the reason to go to them. What I think you need to use is the GTST ecu if you want to run the stock injectors on your 25det as they have the same injector drivers. Also something to keep in mind is that a RB25det MAF will only support something like 300 hp before maxing, so its best to wire in a q45 or big Maf while your at it, or go blow through.
The 300zx ecu does support dual Maf's the same as the Rb26det ecu, giving a higher potential in that area, however the 300zx ecu does have a slower processor.
So the best solution is to run an Rb20 GTST ecu, it will run and hook right up to your RB wiring harness with little or no mods, then set up a blow through Maf and big injectors.
This with a good tune should be the way to go, I have collected just about all the parts and am doing this swap in the spring !
If you look at the pinouts that AEM uses it might help...
I wish I could remember better, I did a ton of research on this exact issue.
Cheers
Chris Crombie
I forgot about the vvc system so if you find something on that give me a shout. I know there are a couple guys running the Nistune or chipped RB's on here ..
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Think I'm scared of Webers eh? I dunno. I'm still waiting on the damned car to get here so I'm going on hearsay about the Webers. I've heard they are temperamental and use a lot of gas. I'm not crazy about carbs in the first place. I've read about the SU's in early z's and they seem almost foolproof.
I like foolproof
I don't think I posted this on z31p but I did some mechanical work and minor restoration on a '66 Mustang to make a few extra bucks. The owner wanted me to rebuild a Holly 4v for him. He gave me the 140 someodd piece rebuild kit and I said uh uh I think you need a new carb or a real mechanic. I'll see about the carbs after I have the car a while but reliability and drivability is important. I don't want to be fiddling w/ three carbs all the time. I'm still researching but I'm assuming that if the Webers go the intake manifold goes too? Surely a triple carb setup has an aftermarket intake manifold? I'm trying to figure out what I'll need for SU's.
Hey Mike, I'm pretty sure we sent you a radio out of the 84 ae z31 we had last christmas?
In any case, don't worry about the webers. I have a set of 45mm on my 280z and theyre great. I daily drove it this year 2 hours every day and the only problems I ever had were (surprise!) with the ignition system, which was until recently a dual point distributor. As for tuning webers, just get a synchrometer like what they use on VW's (not a unisyn) and that makes balancing easy. You shouldn't have to re-tune them entirely unless they are badly jetted for the current engine, and once they are balanced they usually stay that way until you decide to fiddle with something else.
In any case, I vote keep them! yeah they're a little intimidating at first, and yeah they use a bit more gas, but thats just cause you can't keep your foot off the pedal.
PM me if you need the weber manual.. I think I have it kicking around here somewhere.
Cheers,
Rob
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This is getting interesting !!
First off, sorry for hijacking the thread, I'm going to continue the rest on via PM or on the large TB thread after this post. The car is looking good Phil !
So far, I am on board with a 90mm being able to flow a ton more, its just alot bigger, this makes sense to me. I agree with you that it may be waaay too much!
Last night I played with some HP and throttle plate calculators Here and Here . Interestingly the second seemed to show a "HP Loss" when too small of a TB was used, When I switched from an engine of 2.5L with 15psi of boost 7000 rpm redline and a 90mm to the same engine with a 56 mm TB it showed a loss of 4 hp. Play with the calculator a bit see if its on the ball or not. It may be off... There must be something going on with TB sizing.
I know some small 4's like the b16 in hondas have stock a 56 mm TB ... compare that to some of the high hp cars here only running the 60mm tb's or that ball park. Are the honda's tb's too big factory? The s2000 engine uses a 62 mm TB and we know it to be one of the higher hp/L N/A engines of today ...however when they increased the displacement the TB size went down to 60 when they added 200 cc's ! This is confusing stuff.. If its just for tip in response, wouldn't a cam on the pully be cheaper ?
If they do still sell 103 mm piping in Japan, that doesn't mean anything at all, they also sell Bozuku style tail pipes in JDM land too, hardly functional. Lets just assume though that the 103mm piping has a use on a high HP car, then is there a negative to stepping down to say a 60mm TB, if the entire intake and exhaust tract is around 3 inches ? Would this impeded flow ?
Next up the "why necessary argument" I see where your comming from, don't put a performance part on something on just for looks, which is all fine and dandy, as we are trying to stay away from the ricer image. This is good ! I agree here too. What I don't agree with is that the 90mm throttle body becomes such a heated topic, when I see some other builds with totally useless installations, that take less heat. For example even improperly designed cages on hybridz usually take less heat than this topic, or ideas that totally don't make any sense, eg Flared cars with inner fenders intact, intercoolers sitting on top of the engine, with no ducting ! ! Those are my ideas of rice !
Again I am not saying that a 90mm TB is the best mod you can do on a car or that it is even necessary. I am interested to find out if anyone has any real back to back data on what it effects. The only real world I have is from my car and driveability, which there is little to no effect. Tony is using the logic that someone should prove him that it is useful, as his first hand experience is that it is unnecessary. I will take the other side and say there is no negative from my experience so why not ? Innocent until proven guilty or guilty until proven innocent ! ?
Cheers
and Ill get off your thread Phil !
Chris Crombie
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Hey Brady,
The pressures were all done in gauge, that is usually how they are discussed, nobody talks that their NA engine is running at one bar without a turbo !! This is why the I used Bar-gauge not Bar-Absolute.
When you run the triple carbs you essentially have an ITB per cylinder, therefore each cylinder is using the 45mm plate all to itself. So in order to compare I would have to use somthing relative such as when the L-6 is on the intake stroke, so two cylinders are filling, not all 6 ( though that would be amusing ....once). That is what I was thinking. All the air the engine will ever get has to pass through the 90mm, as opposed to each 45mm. Even if its spinning to 10-million rpm, it will be filling only two cylinders at once, assuming its using the standard straight 6 firing order...
Oh and Braap your totally correct, I'm trying to think a little harder about what Im saying in this discussion. (I remember a certain speedboat coming up as an example
) Back to the same argument Tony is using, nobody has given a good reason as to why there is a crusade against large throttlebodies and not other forms of mis-engineering ?
Cheers
Chris
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Just thinking out loud, if a Q45 displaces 4.5 liters per full firing sequence at one bar, and the L series 2.8l at one bar, doesn't that mean that a boosted L series has a much similar air demand as the q45 for example 2.8 l x 1.5 bar ( 22 psi) = 4.2l ? This is assuming A Im somewhat on the right track and two the boys at nissan did use a 90mm TB on the q45 for a reason...
I think I might be getting mixed up I was using some of the really simple compressor calculations we use in commercial diving.
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Correct me if Im wrong, and this is just based on area calculations, If the RB26dett had 6 butterflys, then each one caters to an individual cylinder. Therefore during each intake stroke the cylinder has roughly 1590 square mm's to play with(3.14x22.5 squared). With a 90mm TB you have a much greater area, however it is divided by two, as you have two cylinders drawing air at once (3.14x45 squared divided by 2). It comes out to roughly 3150 mm square per cylinder. So just on area, a 90mm has twice the surface area even if being utilized by two cylinders at once (during intake).
So that being said yes a 90mm throttle body will flow a ton more than a set of 45mm butterflys, I think we are on the same page there. I don't know how to do further calculations for the actual flow of the TB's but Im pretty sure its non linear as the area goes up making the difference larger. Now Im not sure what happens when the flow is pressurized as in a turbo application if velocity is affected or what, Ill leave that up to someone who knows.
All that being said, one point we should lay to rest is that the 90mm TB's are undriveable, this is nonsense. I have stated before that there is no loss in drivablitly and I stand by it. My mother can drive the car no problems and she is used to a diesel Jetta. So this point can be buried, if you want to run a big TB, do it, it will not cause the car to become an on off, it will be different but as far as overall drivabilty no, it won't become an on off.
My second point is more one of curiosity, why is it that the 90mm topic is such a taboo or "evil" subject, every time it comes up someone posts "well I saw this vehicle make xxx amount of hp with a smaller throttle body". Which is true! However if we went by that logic, we would be arguing alot of other projects on here too. Monzter's amazing Cad research on intakes if we were consistent it too should have been shot down on accounts of the Jeff P argument earlier in the thread " I made 650 hp on the stock manifold etc . . ."
Nobody gets all upset when a member puts twice pipes on their older Z which again is over kill and has no practical use on a NA Z if we are going by flow numbers. I mean why does a na L series pushing 150 hp need 2.5 inch exhausts time two !?
If we all went by the overkill argument theory we should be spending more time on the dyno tuning every drop of our existing set ups than even modding our cars, as any spare bit of "excess" would be wastage or bling by this argument. We would have to change the site name to "MinimalistZ" !! What I would like to see is consistency, if 90mm TB's are so outrageous how come other engineering blunders on this site don't get the same treatment ?
Back on track I would be very interested to see the research and dyno plots concerning TB size and the effect on the performance of the engine, if there was a huge difference I would be the first to switch to a smaller one. Until there is some sort of research as mentioned above, I have no reason to switch, it drives fine, fits well and I like it.
Cheers
Chris
I don't think I posted this on z31p but I did some mechanical work and minor restoration on a '66 Mustang to make a few extra bucks. The owner wanted me to rebuild a Holly 4v for him. He gave me the 140 someodd piece rebuild kit and I said uh uh I think you need a new carb or a real mechanic. 
) 
Water port fittings? On RB Block
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
I ran mine off the lower Rad hose using a 2 inch piece of pipe with a bung welded in. You could also Tee off one of the hoses that goes to the heater area...