Canadianz
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Posts posted by Canadianz
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I'm running that TB and intake setup on my RB25, Its a nice piece, it won't fit though in the S30 engine bay without mods. The angle in which the TB comes off will cause it to hit the fender...
You can see here the extra elbow I had welded up for it ...
It works just fine the only thing that pissed me off a bit was you need to look around for the right TPS sensor ... as they have a differnt post in the center of shaft than stock. I think I ended up using a Q45 one? The other thing I have found and I am not sure where it is coming from is a small amount of coolant will sometimes collect on the exterior casting in a pitted area after I beat on it .. nothing big but really inspect your piece when you get it .
Here's how it looks all done
You won't find the throttle too touchy, I ran it without the idle air controller etc for two summers and its just fine, idles a bit high. There are no issues with modulation either, some will tell you otherwise but I don't find it. My brother has a 280z with tripple 45's and its no worse or better to drive.
Good luck,
Chris Crombie
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Just to weigh in, yeah physically a 90 mil throttle body is "over kill" but so are alot of other things we do to our cars. 3 inch exhausts on NA cars for example or some of the gi-normus turbos people put on here too.Why put super wide tires on our Z's when there are members running 235's and pulling 9 second quarter mile times?
I'm not saying for a moment that a 90mm is the perfect size for a sub 3 liter 6, however if it works and does the job, its one less thing to worry about. Besides isn't this site about showing off what you build ?
As far as drivability, people will talk all day about how horrible the "giant 90mm" TB is to drive, from my experience driving an RB25det that has a 90mm TB and no Idle air all summer daily (this means stop and go commutes in Toronto traffic), I had no issue what so ever. Sure its big and flashy but who really cares at the end of the day.
We do alot of silly things to our cars, so instead of focusing on the negatives maybe give a compliment, Phil's car is a damn nice build so comment on something you like.
I don't mean this an insult to either TonyD or Jeff, you guys are great and really informative. Alot of what you and a couple other members bring up with the theoretical building is what keeps me interested in the site. I just get tired with the 90mm issue, as it seems so silly compared to some of the bigger nonsensical things people do to their cars.
Back on track, hope the boost issue gets sorted, I would also say that switching out the boost controller for a manual would be the easiest test at the moment, start simple.
oh and just to annoy everyone
Chris
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Yep, but not to stock. I plan on using it for it's intended purposes. The tub is rusty, so I plan on rebuilding that with a few personal touches. Roll bar, 35s, lockers, power steering, etc.
Canadianz - Cool! Are you doing a stock restoration? Also, I've got that motor too. Not sure why... it's not supposed to be there.
Right, yours should have an F head I believe?
For the M38 we're restoring it to stock, and the M37 we're looking at maybe a cummins 6bt, disc/power brakes, power steering, and pretty well keeping it stock looking. Both are pretty clean, the m37 has just a little rust to be fixed, and some bullet/ shrapnel tears, but those are staying.
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Sure does. How do you think I got it stuck?
Burns a ton of oil though... when you step on it, it basically leaves a white smoke screen.
Thanks!
Those Jeeps are great machines.
We have a 52 Willys M38 that we're restoring, Its ex-Canadian military and a real blast to drive, here's couple pictures from last year:
Its got the early style L134 engine, 24volt electrics, and is fully submersible! Id rather not test that last bit out though.
In addition we also have a 54 Dodge m37, the military equivalent of the civilian 3/4 ton powerwagon.
Its next up for getting restored.
Cheers,
Rob
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Ive got some more pics if they will help.
The rims are a one piece design there is no way to separate the barrel... I still haven't found a "mark" other than the JDM transportation stamp.
I like the rim though, they need a clean up with the rest of my car for the winter ! The great thing about Canada is as long as your garage is heated you don't feel guilty for not driving your car for a couple months while you work on it.
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They could be Black Racing wheels. My friend has a set for his AE86 and they look very close to my Wats. The Black Racing logo is painted (or a decal) on the lip so if someone polished yours, it may have been polished off
Thats a good idea, there were stickers on the insides but they are essentially rubbed off, you can't read them anymore. If you have any pictures of that corolla with the rims I'd be interested in taking a look at them!
We recently picked up a set of zg flares for the RB 240, so we gave the rims a test fit and they look pretty mean! They definitely require flares though. Since my brother and I cant justify buying a set of watanabes, we picked these up and Im almost just as happy with the look. I think we'll keep em. heheh
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Check this out .... for sale in Japan ... can be exported ...
MAN !!! I wish I had money . . .
I thought it was weird that after all that work there isn't an air filter !?
Here is the site I found it on . . . they have a ton of cool stuff ...
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Wow,
I should be in the manifold business ! Thats the same price as my whole engine set when I bought it !
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JT,
Hats off man that is an amazing time!
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I have the shell of a 75 sitting outside ready to be scrapped, If you can be a little clearer as to what area you're looking for I might be able to help
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Yeah this one has been posted before, but I always get a kick out of their model A video, talk about a resto-mod!
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For a street car just get your flywheel lightened and resurfaced. Its cheap and it works. I'm not pushing any crazy numbers on my car at all 220 hp at the wheels right now. I do beat on it regularly though and with the stage one clutch I have in it it works like a charm. So if your not looking for super ultra light just lighten your stocker, put the money saved towards a pressure plate and clutch. Just to note though my RB 25 on the lightened stocker is quite snappy still in the revs ... snappier than my bros L28 with tripples
Good luck
Chris
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Thanks Kiwi!
Its a 5 speed evo 2 I believe so I won't have the auto issue. Thanks for the heads up
Chris
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Hey guys, Im going to go look at a JDM Lancer for a winter car. Just wondering if anyone has any experience or any tips for what to look at especially with the 4G63 engines.
The car I am looking at is a 1993....
Im going to do a compression check and test drive as well as check the fluids ... its got 100 000 km's on it supposedly ....
Any how just wanted more info,
Thanks
Chris Crombie
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Yeah that Z has seen better days.. The rims on it look like cheviot sonics which are pretty desireable though.
No idea who's it is.
Rob
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There is a company that actually makes a vinyl sticker type material that has this dimple effect. I saw it on discovery I think the other day, its a much more subtle effect. Kinda weird looking but same idea. It seems to have small but noticeable gains, most were using it on top speed vehicles.
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I've seen Rotas before and I believe these are something different. Unless its an earlier version of the RB that was made in Japan? I really have no clue.
I found some interesting JDM rim indexing websites that seemed to show a LOT of different rims in the same 8-spoke style akin to the RS Watanabes and the Panasports.. The problem is these rims have nothing that really distinguishes them from the rest, so I can only say what they most likely aren't.
I'll post that website if I can find it, it had a lot of good information
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I know what you mean Dan about 3.3's being too tall. Alot of people forget that the 300zx /GTst transmissions already has taller gears in it. I have yet to take my RB to the track however I switched from a 3.3 to a 3.9 or 3.7. (I think it was the 3.9 and it really woke the car up, I no longer felt like I was driving a 3 speed with two over drives ! I was doing about 75 mph in 5th at just about 2k, which was amazing for fuel economy but dropping 2 gears to pull on a highway was a bit silly.
Any how awesome numbers, sounds like your in for some fun, and faster times too!
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I used a KA24 one, I remember getting the "non" AC one... I think thats the correct one. Or just grab some string and measure it ....
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Lol yeah I bet you'd know exactly how to dispose of them...
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Yeah the spokes look close to a Panasport, but the lip design looks closer to a Watanabe.. I just wasn't sure if it was a common brand or if there were a lot of companies that produced these copies.
The width is definitely a bonus! Should be able to handle the Rb 25 a bit better than the chevoits we have on there now
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Hey guys,
My brother and I picked up these rims a couple weeks ago with the intent of cleaning them up and putting them on our 240 sometime. I've been looking all over trying to figure out who made them though, and so far haven't had any luck.
They're 15x10.5 in the rear and 15x9 in the front I believe.
So far I know they're Japanese, most likely knockoffs of the watanabes since they aren't stamped with either the three birds or ssr anywhere. The only markings are an H with a circle around it on the back, and the Japanese ministry of transport stamp on the front of the rims.
Any help is appreciated!
This last pic is what I believe is the Japanese version of a DOT stamp
Cheers,
Chris and Rob
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Sounds good, PM me your address etc. and I can grab it next weekend when I get home if you still need one by then. Shipping would be 5-10 bucks tops.
Anyone using ebay intake manifolds
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
I sure imagine that turbo'd carbs would be a whole new beast in itself. I guess what I really am trying to say is that the drivablity of a lightly built RB with the 90mm is quite manageable, its not bad at all. The setup has a grabbier clutch and a lightend flywheel too.. My brother says the red car with the RB is way touchyier than his carbed 280, which I feel is stiff. So as Tony says its all what your used to. Im not a big V8 guys so most of my experince is on this Z and my brothers car, so I can`t comment on the fords.
Welding the manifold would have been a much nicer and more permant solution compared to the angle piece I had made up. I figure if I change engines I can easily sell the manifold to both skyline guys (there are lots in Canada) and to the Z guys, without painting myself into a corner.
As Tony says there are a couple differnt ones available the JUN style which I have(probably the only thing they copied was the exterior look! ), then there is the Greddy style which is a bit differnt. People have had good luck with both types. Seeing as a "real" JUN costs $2000+ and a GReddy costs 1000$ +, these are not bad deals for the money. Oh and I think RIPS makes somthing similar too.. It would probably be awesome but costs $$ The Q45 TB`s work just great too, which is another option.
I think though the nicest thing about any of these manifolds is getting rid of the darn stock manifold which is a bit of an anoyance to plumb. So for that reason alone its worth tidying up the engine bay.
As for the exhaust manifold I am running a el-cheap-o SS autochrome, I paid about 150$ for it and it works great, no boost creep or cracking at all. The only issue was the holes were incorrectly spaced, however half an hour with a die grinder fixed em up ! You may have an issue if you are running a larger turbo though as the flange needs to be repositioned in some cases, which is an hour job with a sawzall and welder. I figure I can go through 10 of these manifolds before I reach the cost of some of the big $ units.
Cheers
Chris Crombie