Canadianz
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Posts posted by Canadianz
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Hi guys,
Need a hand, I wrecked one of my urethane bushings during install and need to order another, it is from the lower rear control arm and and is the outer bushing. Ive looked at energy and prothane's website with no luck. Does anyone know if I can buy just the one bushing and if so what the # is ?
Here is a crappy pic for the bushings I need ...
Thanks very much
Chris
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Hey Janka,
I would say to get the best insulation you can, there's nothing more annoying than having to wait for the shop to heat up, or have it cool down really fast. Do you live in a suburb ? The ventilation is also something smart to do now, it sucks trying to weld or use solvents in a garage with no air circulation. If you get the digital balasts for your florescent lights they work just fine in the cold. Thats what we are using in our shop, in Brantford, they are also way cheaper on electricty than the old style balasts.
Lets see some pics when its done !
PS theres a guy on Ontario Z car selling 300zx half shafts I saw the other day.
Cheers
Chris
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Hey Guys,
wow lots of Ontario fellas on here! Im from near brantford are any of you in the Ontario Z Car Club ?
Cheers
Chris
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could you tell me how much you would have wanted if i could pick it up?
Well these engines are pretty cheap, I mean we're looking for about 250 bucks... If I were you I would try to find a local one, and any small parts you need we would be happy to ship out to you.
+1 for CanadianZ.good guys, good prices, and I'm craving the custard cake-type-thing that I had at their house.
haha thanks man, you and me both! Unfortunately that trifle seems to only appear around christmas...
Rob
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Hey, if youre looking for a VG30et we have one for sale out of an 84 ae parts car. Ran well and laid rubber great, it was pulled out of the chassis around christmas and has been sitting in our shop since.
Im not sure where youre located, but if youre in Ontario then PM me, we also have the crossmember and pretty well all the accessories for the turbo swap, such as ecu etc.
Rob
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Gollum I think you missed my point, if you can get a water pump for an old L-series then there is just as likely a good chance you can get a usdm alternative part for the JDM SR20det. Obvious differences will be in the ECU, that is a given, however most of the major parts and sensors will have an equivalent. I am trying to think of parts that there wouldn't be a replacement for, which would have to be ordered from JDM land and to be honest I can't think of any that would go and not result in a catostphic break down, eg requiring a rebuild.
Alot of the major parts do swap from Sr's hence the conversions you can find in the Sentra crowd with the turbo Sr's. I guess if for some reason you blew the whole engine up, yeah your in trouble, at the same time your probalby not at joes towing asking to find a set of SR20 pistions to "get you home".
Having rebuilt both an L-series and an RB using local shops, I found that alot of my L-series stuff was ordered in and not in stock on the shelf. It came in quicker than the RB stuff and cheaper but it was still a wait. I live in Canada so Im not sure if that makes the difference at all that your talking about.
Any way as I say get whatever engine you want, if your plan is to drive it a ton pick something reliable, the CA18 seems like a smart choice. Rebuild it and don't get to fancy. The point of this thread was to give the fella ideas and not argue about the difficulty of getting parts for a JDM engine. That being said, Im done best of luck Grim ! Start throwing hours at that car of yours, we want some pics !
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I agree with the points that stock engines are often more reliable than modified highly tuned engines. Also remeber that the SR20 in non turbo trim was built and sold in North America. I would disagree with the idea that it is hard to get parts for engines which were "never produced" in North America. I have an RB25det and have bought almost all of the parts for it locally from my nissan dealership. This includes water pumps oil pumps, belts etc. Other smaller parts can be had from Napa or a similar store, however you won't find it under "SR20DET from JDM land" in their computer. As a previous poster noted the majority of the parts on Nissan engines are interchangeable, so cross referencing and research is required. Go look on some 240sx/Silvia sites and you'll see what I mean.
Remeber again your driving a car which is almost 40 years old, do you think you could walk into Napa and get a waterpump for a 71 datsun off the shelf in every location? Probably not. With that being said, if you go with a JDM engine and your not afraid of cross referencing go ahead, the parts are there, they may be more expensive and require more thought than buying for somthing like a 350 chev, as far as getting parts, even though they are there.
As far as something reliable and good on gas, go out and buy yourself an RB25det, with the tall gearing its great on gas and it goes like hell. If you don't mess with it too much its also a very tough engine. The 25's are getting cheaper too. I personally would avoid the rotaries in a DD, I know the renisis has problems with flooding and seal wear in certain cases. While their are fixes just go and get something that works stock. Besides you don't need too much power to have fun in a Datsun, most people have never driven or ridden in a 200whp Datsun let alone a 400 hp monster. 200whp is definatly enough to have fun and get you around.
Good luck on your engine choice,
Chris
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Hi Canadianz , my car was in Greg's shop about 2 months ago. He cleaned up some the wiring for me. I started my swap in fall 2007. I did most of the swap at home with friends. The wiring was beyond me so i had greg finish up what my friends had started.
by the way do you have your car out yet? I'm thinking of waiting until may 1st.
Maybe I'm thinking of another car then, I remember seeing one like yours in at whiteheads but it was a couple years ago and had just had the engine cradle installed at that time. We almost went with the sr20 for our 240 but settled on the rb25 instead, so Im curious to see what your car turns out like!
Neither of our cars are on the road yet, both are up on jackstands but should be ready within a couple weeks. Like you, it will probably be around the start of May. Im glad I hadn't put them on the road yet seeing as we're still getting snow!
-Rob
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This isnt really relevant to your topic, but how long have you been working on the swap? I remember checking out an orange 240 at whiteheads that they were dropping an SR into.. must have been 2 years ago or so. Was that yours?
Either way, it might take some work to tune the suspension the way you like it, but you won't have to worry about your car not being fun to drive!
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I think the tach adopters are about $50, that is what Im running on mine... the 50$ is worth the annoyance of getting it working. I just used the msd one.
good luck
Chris
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Nice car ! Nice engine!
Which Nistune ecu are you running ? I didn't know they had a RB25 application or are you running a z32 ?
Cheers
Chris
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I'm interested to hear how the link ecu works out for you, Im looking at o one as well. I have heard that the rule with RB injectors is that basically a cc per hp... so theoretically 550cc injectors should be able to power about 550 horse power. I think alot of the fellas around here until they get into the really big numbers are just running the walbro 255 pumps. From the experinces of people on the board it seems that around 500 hp things start breaking on the stock engines. Check out James Thagards build for more info on that ... oh yeah and you might want to look into an alkymeth kit, there good for suppressing dedonation.
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I had the stock unit lightened and balanced, seems to work great. I also got the stock pressure plate strengthened 50% over and the clutch disk re done in in a better friction material too. I guess in hind sight I could have gone the aftermarket route but Ive never had it slip and the engine feels nice and free when revving. Just another thought if there is a place near you that can do that type of work. It suited my build really well and the clutch pedal is still very nice too.
Chris
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Check your Idle air valve, if its anything like those on the RB's it can cause a very similar problem, so software wise it might be 100% and is learning correctly but could be malfunctioning. My RB without an idle air unit acts exactly like what you are describing. If it comes off easily it might be an easy check. Also like the other fellow mentioned check your TB.. try to put a stronger return spring on yours, it might not be closing all the way or might be sticking part of the time. You've probably thought of this stuff already though its worth a shot before you swap the whole TB.
Chris
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Very nice !
That is a nice looking car can't wait to see it finished. Good job on the video too its really nice to see a kinda start to finish of a dyno run, don't often get to see the whole thing.
Can't wait to see the finished machine ! ! Great numbers !
Chris
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I agree with Evan,
The only ones you can do with out are the throttle body ones, and to your heater core. You could tidy them up though using different hoses not that it matters as you won't see the hoses anyway once the intake is on.
Chris
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Hello,
Couple things I would check, first give your Mass Air Flow Sensors a check, make sure they are clean and wired correctly. Also check for vacuum leaks, especially after the MAF. If the engine pulls un-metered air that has not passed the MAF sensors all sorts of odd things happen. Another thing to check is that the vacume routing to your Idle air is set up correctly, its often pretty crazy under there and easy to get a hose mixed up. Another thing to check would be plugs and then maybe your O2 sensor.
So check that the MAF sensors are working right, then for vacuume leaks, Blow off valves are somtimes are a source. Then check the routing on the idle air hoses, check the plugs and then check your O2 sensor.
Good luck !
Chris Crombie
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You got it, we cut it off, then it was re-welded back on with a bit less angle the hot side of the turbo was super close to the valve covers...
This was how close it was ...
any how got it fixed up nicely ...
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Its actually a modified ss-auto chrome header. The fit was pretty crappy I had to re drill some holes for the bolts and reposition the top flange. Other than that bit of fiddle work I'd say its a great header, no boost creep, no cracks, good welds too (checked out by a professional welder / instructor). I used a stock Nissan exhaust gasket and it seals great. I also heat wrapped and silicone sprayed the entire thing. So if you don't mind doing a bit of fiddle work its a great buy.
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What exhaust manifold is that? A custom one or an S-tec or something similar?
Thats a $100 ss autochrome top mount. A real gem. lol
In all seriousness it performs just great. We modified it to get the fitment just the way we wanted it, and then slapped some heat wrap on there and haven't had an issue so far.
Rob
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Here is my RB, it was a combination effort of my brother and I, and our first build . . .
Its a stock long block with a T3/T4, intake and some other bolt ons. I'm running 10psi on the stock ecu, with a wide band and its still nice and rich. I plan on running a bit more this summer and saving up for an ecu and injectors.
Here is the car which looks pretty stock outside . . ..
Oh and here is the shell we started with ....
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I'd personally say get a RB25det, mine is great on gas when I'm not boosting, I have really tall gearing so I think its running about 2200rpms at 65 miles an hour. Well the gearing isn't ideal for drag racing it is great on the highway and still plenty fast. The C18 would be cool though. If I were you I would budget first find out absolutely how much you have to play with then, choose the best from there. It sucks paying a couple hundred for a water pump and close to a grand for cams on an RB when you see what the chev boys are getting alot more hp per $. I wouldn't run much more than 20 psi on pump gas at all, other wise stuff will break and dedonate . To do that you would need at least 600$ worth of injectors, an aftermarket ecu (200-2000) a big intercooler (200$) and a turbo (1000$) not to mention a fuel pump and tank set up to provide it. Once this is all in place you need to get the whole system tuned so either free if you know what your doing or somplace with a dyno. That is all assuming that the internals will hold up to that 20 psi. I think your on the right track though, keep looking at options and budgeting. There are a ton of cool engines that people have yet to capitalize on especially in the Z.
Chris
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Yeah the silver in my opinion looks nice, the gauges fit great in the stock holes. Also you pretty much have to remove the dash, there is so much wiring under there there is no comfortable way to do it otherwise. depending on what is installed under there and how much you find needs replacing you may take longer than 20mins lol good time though! Also with aftermarket gauges you need to design some extra lights for turn signals and hazard flashers, if you want those in the dash too. No biggie but something else to consider. to mount the actual gauges my brother used perforated strap which was rubber coated and it made fore a nice flexible fit which doesn't rattle.
its amazing how much crap and wireing is stuffed up there ...
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Hey well for my RB swap I did a set of Autometer Pro Comp gauges, I really like them. They are silver faced so there not too ricey. The other nice thing about them is that with the Speedo, you can calibrate it easily so if you switch diffs or tire sizes there isn't a big hassle of trying to acount for the difference. I also agree that there isn't too many places to put the gauges, right now I have my wideband in the drivers vent and working on a fiberclass A-piller mount for it and fuel pressure.
Here is some pics of my dash, not the best but you'll get the idea.
So how many cars make up your RB z ????
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
Hmm I think I might be able to surprise some people here ...
1971 240z-shell
1978 280z-Mustache Bar and rear disk brakes
1984 300zx Diff + Half shafts (in progress) + scrap metal for door repair
1992 S13 Injectors
R33 engine set
Now the non nissan amusement
(year) ?Chevy hod rod rad
1992 Ford Escort fuel roll over switch
1984 New Holland Manure Spreader "seasons metal" frame rail repairs
1990 Toyota Supra motor mounts
1990 Toyota 4x4 brakes
GM Joints in driveshaft
Case International "hi tran" heavy equipment differential fluid
BBK Mustang Fuel Pump