Canadianz
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Posts posted by Canadianz
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Wow very very nice !
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Hey all,
For those interested in a Disel Z, I found a cool article from the 1975 November Motor Trend Magazine. I have scanned the article for those who want to read it. Apparently this engine got 45mpg, in the 70's ! Pretty cool idea, I can't imagine how today's diesel would do in a Z, I imagine it would be pretty interesting !
Cheers
Article below
(sorry its super wide)
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Very nice !
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I would suggest finding a zed that won't take so much time on the body work. To be honest its more more fun to work on the swap then to be using a wire wheel and a sanding block for weeks at a time. Save your money and time and part it out. It all depends on how much you value your time, the car looks fixable but it will need alot of hours thrown at it.
I went through this whole route with my 240z ...
just my 2 cents worth ...
Chris
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well its not exactly engine paint, but its flat, its olive and its tough.
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Hi Guys,
I'm looking for the main crank pulley for a 83 280zx, I need one with both power steering and AC. My newly acquired 280zx, ahem um lunched the old one on there so I need a replacement. I am located in Ontario Canada and would prefer to deal locally as I need it quickly. I have a two ribbed pulley too if someone wants to trade for a lighter one ?
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Nopers, you only really need a aftermarket reg if your running aftermarket injectors or a new rail. I ran a stock reg and rail at 12 psi all last summer, no problems and I was running the equivalent of the walbro 255 pump. So don't spend the money on it. I was also running a wide band 02 sensor and I was always nicely rich !
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Well that would probably be part of the problem!
Hows it drive now?
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Good to hear it was simple!
And no, you really don't have to worry about it going in too far, It either fits or it doesnt, and any kind of movement along the driveline is pretty insubstantial.
Cheers
Rob
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I took some quick measurements and tip to tail the driveshaft is 28.5" and roughly just over 25" from the tail to the start of the collar where the rear of the transmission seals onto it.
Rob
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I believe earlier Z's require a shorter driveshaft due to the forward placement of the differential, however I cant remember whether thats just for the 71's or what. Either way, I have a spare driveshaft from a 71 with the 4 speed, so I can measure that later if you like.
Cheers,
Rob
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We run Case international Hytran in the gearboxes and open r200s in both our Zs. Works great, is pretty cheap, and you know it protects well because its originally meant for tractor gearboxes and hydraulics! (read lots and lots of abuse)
Chris and Rob
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My brother runs the rewinds on his car, we are running a 205/55 I think on there. It only rubs in the back, we did roll the fenders a bit though. Also make sure your suspension is in good shape, if its getting droopy you'll be scuffing alot more.
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Haha thats what I was thinking, kinda sounded like BS... Ill keep an eye on it though.
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Hey guys, wondered if anyone knew anything about this guy or what he is building ? Apparently he has a manufacturing facility ? Sounds like a scam to me ...http://www.hp2g.com/homeofhp2g.html Here is the site. On the site it says the engine he is building is good for 400hp or so and can get 100mpg.
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If you need any turbo parts I have an entire 300zx engine of parts as well as alot of 280 stuff too ...
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Yeah +1 on the cool rims... There not Rewinds, as they only come in one offset. I don't think there Rota's either. I have a suspicion they may be wantanabes... .if so your laughing ...
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Sorry bout the ECU .... Glad though that you got your fuel issue sorted out ! Keep throwing time at it and it will be done soon!
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Well at least you have something fairly easy to rule out now. Since the problem has steadily gotten worse, that could relate to junk from the tank plugging up the lines... How recently have you checked the fuel filters? what kind of a pump are you running? have you checked the float bowls in the carbs to see if there is any sediment in there? and lastly, have you checked the overall condition of the carbs, ie. checking for enough oil in the dashpots etc.
When you're sure that the fuel system is running properly, then you can narrow things down a bit.
hope that helps.
Rob
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So if Im reading this correctly you have pressure before the fuel rail... the side nearest to the fire wall but nothing is flowing past that ? Make sure the lines are hooked in correctly. The return line is at the front of the block and it comes off the fuel pressure regulator, which looks like a little bumpy fitting with a vacuum lime off it. The fuel rail feed is the open end at the fire wall side. If your trying to run fuel backwards through the FPR that might cause it. Other wise try putting a pressure gauge at the end of your feed and see what kinda of pressure the line is at... Keep working forwards until you find the blockage. As mentioned in the other post you might have the pump hooked up incorrectly. It should have a positve, negative and a control wire to the ecu. If you didn't hook up that one the fuel pump might not run right.
Good luck !
Chris
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You can usually find the condensor either on the side of the distributor or attached to the ballast resistor, its easy to check and rule out of the equation at least.
Another thing I just thought of is when you have this issue, check with a multimeter to see if youre losing voltage on certain wires or if there's any way to track down what exactly is happening. This way you can get an idea of whether to look at the wires before the ignition module or whether its something after it.
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It shouldn't matter if you plumb it into both or just one. The re-circ valves/ blow off valves vent back into the intake AFTER the MAF on RB's so it doesn't matter really. I have mine on my RB25 venting to atmosphere and it does stumble the odd time when bov vents on the stock ecu. If you think about it there is no need for an bov Y pipe becasue just after the turbo's the compressed air on the RB26's joins again in the turbo Y pipe. Remeber that bov air is metered already so it doesn't need to go back through the MAF ... just back into the intake tract.
Hope that helps
Chris
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Theres two things here that came to my mind reading this: first, figure out what that blue and red wire is that is running to the ignition box, because as I remember usually your ignition wires in the early s30s are black with a white stripe.
Secondly, I had a problem like this with a carbed 280 (without the problem with the ignition switch) where the car would randomly cut in and out, stumble and lose spark entirely... then run fine an hour or so later. What it turned out to be was a brand new condenser that had gone bad, so thats something to think about.
Hope that helps
Rob
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I got a turbo XS one of ebay ... it was missing the needle... tried to blow up my car . . 15lbs on a stock RB25 isn't a good idea . So if you get one just give it a quick check like any cheap-o part and make sure it is assembled correctly. I am now using a Turbo smart manual controller and it is working great!
Early Model 240z R200 Swap issues
in Drivetrain
Posted
Hi all,
I currently have an early model 240z with a RB and a custom drive shaft (spicer u joints-1310 series) which was connected to a broken R180. I am trying to finish up swapping an R200 from a 280z in so I can drive the car.
I have the R200 moustache bar, half shafts etc....
So far I have found two issues after test fitting,
1. My drive shaft is too short (early 240z had a differnt length shaft)
2. The R180 flange on my driveshaft is different than the R200. The R180 output is square and the R200 is rectangular. (Output shafts are also non exchangeable between R200-R180)
1.Is there a correct positioning of the moustache bar which will make the diff line up correctly? If not issue I can remedy with a spacer.
2.Does any one know the correct part number for either the spicer yoke for the tail end of my driveshaft, or if there is another output shaft I can use. I tried my local custom drive shaft place and they had no idea after phoning around.
This issue has been rasied a number of times and I have found about 4 or 5 threads, however they all seem to trail off before after a solution is found, without a concrete yes/no and a # .
Any how kinda frusterated
Thanks
Chris Crombie