Forces

I decided to wire up my fuel pump the way that JTR has it set up, and I have run into a problem. The JTR manual says to wire the fuel pump up to the chrysler switch for and use the ingnition battery termianal from the distributor for power, whihc was no problem. It also says to wire the BLACK-BLUE (for 260/280Z) wire from the ignition box into the fuel pump wiring as well to get power while cranking. The problem I have is that the guy who had the car before my just cut that BLACK-BLUE wire off in the dash right as it comes out of the wiring harness under the passenger side. Where does that wire go from there in a stock application? I looked in my shop manual, but the print is so small and blurry that I couldn't find this black-Blue wire in the wiring diagram.

As a matter of fact, I just converted to the JTR wirring on the fuel pump today. I haven't run the engine that way yet, but it DOES seem like a better st up. Those electric pumps are a but loud.

So I guess the answer to my question is to sink the shifter. I read that in a few other forums, but I was hoping to get around that. The pics are great. I had a mega shifter in a camaro (console version) and I loved it. Anyone got any pics of a mega shifter, or a Hurst equivalent?

I know there are tons of posts about this issue. I searched and searched and couldn't find an answer to my question... I want to use a B&M mega shifter, or something like it. I should say that would be my first choice, but I am not dead set on it. The normal floor mount mega shifter sticks up about 12", which is way WAY too tall. I have read (on this sight) about people using camaro console shifters, but all I really found was... " Yeah, I think somebody has tried that." I want to run the console, but again, I am not dead set on it. My limitations: I have the means to do some light fabrication using sheet metal, cutting/ trimming. Welding can be done in my situation, but would be a huge PITA for what I have to work with. What have you all found that works and looks halfway decent that doesn't stick up like a truck shifter, if there is such a thing?

I mounted my the kit I got up, and I may ave run into an issue... I pulled the door mechanism all the way back, and it looks like there is about 5/8" distance that the linage needs to move to unlach the door. The kit I have pulls 1/2". I used a VEHICLE POWER ACCESSORIES kit. I need to replace the selonodis anyways, (for some stupid reaon I only got the 15lbs selonoid.) But I called up the copmany, and they said that 1/2" was pretty much all I was gonna get, regaurdless of which brand I use. anyone else come accross this? I'm not real crazy about using a bell-crank to solve to problem. Seann

If I remember correctly, JTR does not recommend using the stock wiring for the fuel pump. There is some discussion in the manual about using a fuel pump switch from a Plymouth horizon that ties into the oil pressure sensor. I think they did it that way (as opposed to a key on 12v source) so you continue to pump while cranking. I am personally going to just wire mine up to a key only source. If you engine is tuned properly, you shouldn't need to crank so long that it sucks all the fuel out of a primed fuel line. *Edit* As for the fan, my car is wired up to a 150-degree snap switch and relay with a manual over-ride. I mentioned in another post on LS1 wiring that when using the 2-speed fan that using the high speed only is not the best of ideas. Rather than burning up the fan motor, you may fry the wiring. My buddy did it on his 86 mustang. It fried all the way into the dash on what I believe was a 14-gauge wire, but it may have been 12 gauge. just my 2 cents.

you could try a larger diameter pulley on the water pump, but I don't know effective that would really be. you could also go with an electric water pump.

Yeah, the open headers have a cool sound.

I had all of these problems during the install which cost me time and money to resolve..... 1. Had to use a Lokar flex dipstick for tranny. If you go that route, make sure you get the firewall mount version, the tranny mount leaves no room to actually check the fluid level. 2. Had to mount up locking hood-pins and fab brackets, deleted the stock hood latch all together 3. Common 8" balancer won't work, had to use a 6" (as mentioned in the JTR manual. I wish I would have read that part a little more carefully when dropping the engine in. Not to change the subject, but I am skepical of the pressure points with the JTR kit. The very front of the motor is supported and the very back of the transmission is supported with the JTR trans crossmember. It seems like this puts a lot of stress of the trans to engine bolts, regaurdless of what grade bolts you use. But I guess if it's tried and true, it isn't a big deal.

Is that saw dust I see in those tires?

humph......I guess I should have installed before posting. I used the triangular edelbrock airfilter and it LOOKS like it would just clear the stock hood. But it would be a snug fit. Just replying for those of you who have, and will, run into this very problem, as the air gap comes highly recomended, as you can see above. I'll know at zero hour when my engine either starts or explodes on the first crank.

I've got a rusty POS 240Z beyond the point of restoration, but it has some good parts on it. I am getting rid of it via scrap metal. It was a parts car for a 280Z project, but there isn't much I can use (that I really need) on it, but what should/can be salvaged. What are some of the high demand OEM parts off of the 240z? It's got no motor, the seats are shot, the dash is cracked, no windshield, and some other stuff is messed up. The headliner is perfect, some of the interior parts are good, but it has terrible rust in the common problem areas (floor pans, frame rails, battery tray, spare tire in the hatch.) I hate to be materialistic, but I'm not one for wasting parts that fellow Z owners could use.

I have cruised through some of the threads regarding tire size, and I am in need of advice....I'm running somewhere around 450ft/Lbs of torque. I DO NOT want to hook up with that, it'll snap everything starting from the back and working its way forward. My car has 205's all the way around, which is fine in the front, but what would it really take to run a 255 or 265 in the rear? Anyone run that size w/o adding fender flares? I'm thinking I could have the steel wheels on it 14"x6" widened to an 8 1/2", but I am skeptical of wheel widening. Note: Stock suspensions, for now, haven’t decided on what upgrade to use.

Okay, I'm sold, I just installed the firewall mount Lokar one, and it went in without any problems, although I tried the trans-mount version, and there was just no way with the amount of clearance (or lack there of) between the firewall and engine block. Looks good, works good.

Just a word of warning, if you plan to run the high fan, don't wire it up so it's JUST the high speed going at all times. If I'm not mistaken, the high fan in the taurus is used primarily when the A/C is on. My buddy made that mistake with his mustang and fried the wiring all the way into the dash. EDIT* I don't think he was running an inline fuse though, I'm not certain.

Is that the Husrt Console shifter for the camaro?

I am thinking of going with a Lokar flexible dipstick form my trans, but I have my doubts. The stock one just won't fit, so I figure a flex would make for an easier install, but it seems kinda janky. your thoughts?

I have acquired some ceramic-coated block hugger headers that have 1 5/8" primaries and 2 1/2" collectors. Would it be that big of a difference to ditch 'em and go for the 1 3/4" primaries and 3"? BTW, planning on running 3" exhaust regardless of collectors with side exit and all mandrel bends. Engine: 383 stroker with flat top duel valve relief forged pistons. Edlebrock 66 cc RPM performers, Air gap intake, 700 CFM square bore carb. *EDITED FOR TYPOS*

Damn, I am surprised that will fit like that. Thanks. Sean

I dropped my engine in my 280z about a week ago. I am running the edelbrock air gap intake, which is a bit taller than the stock height intake. I don't have a hood now, but the stock hood of my 82 camaro would clear with this intake. A cowl hood would be cool, but spendy. I am not sure if the edelbrock low profile air filter (the kinda triangular one) set up will work with the stock hood. Another option is a carb scoop, like so... http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MRG%2D6658&N=700+%2D79441+115&autoview=sku Any suggestions?

The second I put that crossmember under my car, I think my first impression was "....they can't be serious." I haven't decided if I want to use it. A guy I talked to in portland said that the floor pans were ripped apart with the 3"x 6"x 1/4" plate that is recomended by JTR.

looks good, the side pipes are a nice touch. What kind of intake manifold are you running under there?

well, the transmission is now repaired and I'm going to take another stab at it either tonight or tomarrow. I don't think the flex plate is bent, it doesn't appear to be at all. Although, if I have the same problem I not gonna be happy, because that'll mean that I have the wrong flex plate. Trouble is, I can't find a different flex plate as a substitute.

Good info, thanks. The torque converter doesn't seem to be damaged. There were notches in the torque converter that slip over, I guess a sort of spline.....it's not really splined, but I don't know what you'd call it. Those appeared to be part of the trans, not the converter.....is that part of the pump, or is it part of the imput? Good idea with the dowls, that would certainly make things easier.