Forces

I don't know exactly whats available in your neck of the woods, but I have gone to ACE hardware and nowhere else. It's had everything I ever needed, metric or standard.

Maybe I'm wrong here, but decent gas mileage and 400 to the wheels are two things that don't fit in the same catagory of $2000. just food for thought. Seann

Okay, I know this is a supid question, but I have to ask it. The area in the cowl where the wiper arms come out, is that raised, or just a straight cut. The reason I ask is because the guy I bouth my Z from went shave crazy (Z emblem on by the raer glass, door handles, marker lights), including the wiper arm area on the cowl. The paint matches the car, as it is all from the same mixture, so I would like to keep it, but I want WIPER BLADES.

As some of you know, 280Zone makes and sells custom fiberglass hoods. I will certainly not be the first or last to say that they are worth the money, I haven't painted mine yet, but I did a dry fit, and it is f***in' sic. I highly recomend it to anyone looking for a new hood. Just doing my part in keeping capatalism alive. Hope this helps some of you. seann

I don't think you've covered what exactly you plan to do with your V8Z, or what the ultimate goal is. That too plays a roll in what kit to go with. As you mentioned before, long tube headers just don't work with the JTR kit, but you only really need long tube headers if you are running a BUILT engine, like you might want for a drag car. A daily driver with a stock 350 probably doesn't need that. In which case, JTR woould be a better choice due to drivability. I think that what your goal with the car is plays a large variable in your search for the best kit.

I was told by some guy at NAPA to use NON detergant straight 30 for the initial break in, after that oil weight is strictly preference.

Thats almost exactly what I did. The only difference on mine is that I have a single post starter, so I used a Ford starter relay. *EDIT* But I mine isn't a ZX, its a 76' 280Z

How many of us would REALLY get out of our V8Z that we put into them (as far as the dollar amount goes)? I know I certainly wouldn't. I say go with whatever kit suits your wants/ needs and budget.

reasonable price for coated headers. I noticed that the details added that they are coated inside and out. Is that common practive with ceramic coated headers, or something you don't typically see?

I think if I were to do that (assuming it would work) that I would run into clearance issues with the steering shaft on the driver's side, and frame issues on the pass. side.

The first links has a 351 windsor.....that would be somthin' else in a Z.

Holy ****!!! I think my buddy with an 86' 'stang turbo 302 needs to see this!!! Seann

My god man, don't sell it. That's practically art.

sorry man, I just looked at my Edlelbrock RPM performers, it doesn't look like they have helio coils....but like I daid, correct me if I'm wrong.

If they are aluminum, I would expect that they have a helio coil (which is actually what they thread into.) Helio coils are replaceable. You can find them at NAPA, and some other places, I'm sure. I know the header threads have them. Correct me if I'm wrong. Seann

Contact your local driveline shop (if you have one). They should either have the conversion flange, like you'll find on the JTR web site, or they can order it in. I think I paid about $50 for mine. There are also some online stores out there that will make a d/s for you if you send them the exact measurements. Hope that helps. *EDIT* I used #1310 u joints. They are supposed to be pretty stout, but no the best.

The patriot headers I have were the equivelent of thier "Tight Tuck" Headers. with those headers, the steering linkage runs about 1" below the collector, and right underneath it. Not to mention that it looks like it also interferes with the frame. I'll have to call about their block huggers for 'angled plug' heads. Thanks.

Damn, big spender. I just got an email From Loren regaurding those same headers. The Ceramic coated ones are just under $600. They look like my last option though. Let us know if they are worth the money.

Brave or stupid? Huh? You using a line-lock during that?!

My engine is in the JTR position. The block huggers I had on there fit awsome, just those damn spark plugs get in the way. JT1...My buddy has trick flows (on a Ford 302) and those plugs are all angled in the same direction... / / / / o o o o My angle plugs Chevy 350 are as such.. / / o oo o the "o's being the combustion chamber. the "/" being the plug. This may be common knowlege, Those ford trick flows my buddy has are the only trickflow heads I've seen, and the only ford head that I have taken an interest where the plug placement was.

I read a few posts on this, but haven't found any definative answers, But I can't find any headrs that will fit! It's driving me crazy because it is the last thing I need to start my engine. I'm running edlebrock RPM perfomer heads with angled plugs. I tried Summit brand block hugger headers. They don't work with angled plug heads. I tried Patriot shortys that are supposed to be the "fit all" header, but do NOT fit in my car. All the other block hugger headers specifically say "Will not work with angled plugs." It's funny how a seemingly simple thing; such as block huggers that work with angled plugs, can be so difficult. Aside from getting custom headers, am I at a dead end here? Patriot header: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PTE%2DH8052%2D1&N=700+115&autoview=sku Summit Header: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG9060%2D1&N=700+115&autoview=sku

GetZ, I pretty much copied what you had done. It's a little different, but same idea. The shifter is still a little high for my liking, but you can't win 'em all......sorry about the poor picture quality.

well, don't I feel like an idiot:? . ....That's what I was looking for. The stock "sending unit" isn't in the water neck, its in the head.

This is probably a rediculous question but here goes anyways. I have been looking for the correct temp sensor and have gotten 3 that won't fit. The first was like a snap switch with 2 posts for wires. Everything was comparable to the sensor in the JTR manual except for the end that wires up to the gauge....the second was actually from the dealer and was supposed to go into the water neck. This one that the right electrical connector on it (like the one in JTR) but it had a separate nut/ fitting that held it down. ) This won't work. The 3rd one cam from NAPA and though it was slightly different, it was the same fitting problem as the dealer version. All I have asked for at three different places was for a temp sensor that goes to the gauge for a 76' 280Z. Apparently this is the wrong question to ask.

If you have a legible copy of the 76 280Z wiwring diagram, that would be great. The one that I have is so small and blurry, I can barely read it.