grumpyvette

if the holes line up 50% like you say I doubt that there will be any problems but you might want to check out a differant gasket company and see if the holes line up better,(just a thought)

Here are a couple of links you need to read http://www.headerdesign.com ( a great source of header design info ) http://www.timskelton.com/valkyrie/tech/images/h_pipes.pdf ( a test of exhaust pipes on an Olds ) http://www.torquetechexh.com/xpipe.htm http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/exhaust.html ( a test of pipes in a Pontiac )

on the street , if your running a 400 block,youll NEED to drill STEAM HOLES, contact canfield, edelbrock,AFR,DART,ETC. for the detailed instructions or IDEALLY send the heads to them for the work,(so you don,t screw it up) on a 350 this is not necessary steam hole locations if your running a 400sbc (these instructions are from PRO heads yours might be slightly differant) notice the angle and depth of the holes varies between the pro and AFR heads look around carefully HERES WHAT AFR SAYS 400 BLOCKS: Steam holes are recommended for all 400 block applications. Use a 400 Gasket as a template and drill the three holes, nearest the spark plug side of the head, straight down. The other three which are very near the head bolt holes should be drilled at a 30° angle away from the bolt hole. The center hole will intersect water about 1" down and the two outboard holes to a depth of 2 1/4". Use 1/8 drill.

if you can find any 350s with a muncie 4 speed that came in the 1969-thru about 1971 camaros,novas,corvettes thats about ideal. they were higher compression and generally had greater potential than later lower compression small blocks a second good choice would be the 400sbc truck engines with the manual 4 speed trans that was available in the early 70s in mostly the trucks but a few cars, while youll need to change a few parts like pistons and cylinder heads they offer even greater potential but at an additional cost. you might want to keep in mind that the newer crate engines offer a significant bargain over the total price of rebuilding an older engine, starting from scratch with no engine to start with,especially when you consider the costs of both time,parts and machine work. you can ask around, but youll find its REALLY EASY to spend more rebuilding an old 350 than a newer crate engine would cost http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Engines-and-Transmissions/featured.html

chevy has just announced NEW versions of the vortec heads which are designed for increased flow and are similat to the FASTBURN heads but the new vortec 206cc heads are CAST IRON PART # 25534371 theres also a slightly improved 175cc version part# 25534351 these new heads are drilled and tapped for both old and new valve cover and both old and vortec style intakes, they have 2.00 intake and 1.55 exhaust valves and 65cc chambers GM has also released a new 383 425hp crate engine part # `12498772

heres a little tip, first, FIRST THINK IT THRU CAREFULLY, somtimes only an adapter plate is necessary added to stock motor mounts to move the location of the mounting hole locations on the block or frame , you can normally use either the stock frame mounts or engine mounts for half the setup, you need custom mounts for only one side of the mount on each side of the engine in most cases, bolt your trans to the engine and suspend the engine exactly where you want it possitioned in the engine bay as to spaceing, angles, shifter location,water pump and accessories, etc. with your engine crane , engine tilter and jacks, making sure of distributor clearance, oil filter,fuel pump,suspension,oil pan, starter ,clearances ETC. now the fun starts, having built dozens of custom engine and trans mounts over the years heres what I found easyest, buy some 3" wide masking tape, use cardboard,and make the first trial set,then progress to fitting and mocking up a set from 3/16-1/4" thick plexglas and the solvent/glue necessary to stick it togeather ,cut and fit the necessary parts, first on the tape/cardboard then make your trial fit parts from the plexi-glass, a drill press and jig saw helps heres as does the ability to see thru the plexi-glass, for mounting hole locations (remember to gusset angles/joints and to leave room for bolts to slide in and bolt heads to be reached with a wrench) and use a majic marker to mark the mount holes and outter dimensions, you should be able to all the mistakes and trial fitting for under $20, then take the plexi models to a local machine shop for duplication in 1/4" steel, if you dont have a welder and the skill to build it yourself simple brackets rarely cost you more than $100 http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/knowledge_gateway.htm http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_mm29.htm http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=964&prmenbr=361

most guys can,t afford a hydrolic lift and use those auto store ramps to work on thier cars like these link or these link Id just like to point out some options some of you might not be aware of....... while they are much more expensive they are still much cheaper than a full hydrolic lift http://www.dambachramps.com/minilifts.html http://www.kwiklift.com/ http://www.chapmanent.net/products.html http://66.113.231.142/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=LI-FP link the longer lifts in the third example are about ideal for working on corvettes and other cars with low ground clearance, while they cost about $300 you could save alittle welding up your own from steel as an option, Ive seen guys make very nice custom sets for under $200 in materials another EXCELLENT REASON TO OWN A GOOD WELDER. and know how to use it correctly

first Id like to say Im not an EXPERT at welding but have done quite a bit over the years now just to answer some basic questions, heres some info from a differant site you might want to know! I'll try to cover some of the basics for you as best as I can explain them. http://www.alpharubicon.com/elect/tigbasic1.htm TIG - (Tungsten Inert Gas Welding) basically resemble oxy-acetolene welding (torch) but you use a controlable electric arc as the flame/head source, ans add the weld wire, or rod seperate from the arc This process is the toughest to learn. The electrode is composed of Tungsten, and a current is flowed through it controlled by either a foot pedal, a hand switch, or a fixed current on the machine itself. I am learning TIG using a foot pedal, the more you press down on the metal, the more amps you get. Once you get enough current flowing to get an appropriate sized weld pool, you start dabbing a filler metal into the puddle as you move the electrode further down the work piece. TIG allows you a great amount of control because you regulate how much current the electrode gets and how much filler metal the weld pool gets. This process is very slow compared to the other types though. MIG - (Metal Inert Gas) mig is basically a wire thats fed constantly into the weld area that got current running thru it, it melts both the metal and itself as its consumed/melted by the arc http://www.autobody101.com/articles/article.php?title=Mig+Welding MIG is the easiest process of welding. A feeding gun is used to feed a spool of filler metal wire into the weld pool. Current is usually switched on and off by means of a trigger on the gun. Amps are usually controlled by a dial on the MIG machine itself, meaning that you cannot adjust current in the middle of welding. Though, with some machine you are able to get a foot pedal to control Amps while welding. Arc Welding these are the cheaper buzz box welders we all tend to start with, they use an arc thru the weld rod some what similar to mig but without the gas shielding, they have flux on most rods to help the weld quality[/n] Arc welding is mostly used in industrial applications. An electrode is used to strike an arc, the electrode then melts away to deposit metal into the weld pool. The electrode is coated with a variety of different materials which are used to help keep the weld pool from being contaminated. TIG and non-flux-cored MIG both use a variety of different shielding gases to help keep the weld pool from being contaminated depending on what metal is being welding. http://www.stockcarracing.com/techarticles/82101/ http://www.ytmag.com/articles/artint153.htm http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_improvement/tools/2001/3/welding_basics/

just some info, see these http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html well a fairly comon way to kill an engine is to INCORRECTLY install one of these remote filter adapter kits, look at the top picture and keep in mind that those two connecting hoses COULD be flipped as to what end(in/out ) on the remote filters gets hooked to the bypass adapter (IN/OUT) ports, hook it up correctly and everything works just fine! but swap the two hoses on only one end and YOUR OIL PUMP tries to push OIL PAST the ANTI-DRAINBACK VALVES on the oil filters,(and most of the time is marginally successfull in that a trickle of oil does get to the bearings and rocker arms at idle) now at idle youll still get good oil pressure (about 15 lbs) but rev the engine and the highly restricted oil flow pressure goes up very slowly but the oil VOLUUM getting into the block is so low youll spin a bearing in about the first 20 minutes ( and 99% of the time the guy that does this blames the guy who built his engine for putting it togeather WRONG when in fact the engine could have been PERFECT but with no oil reaching the bearings under load the engine is history within at best about an hours running time! http://64.226.148.152/main/product/searchDetail2.asp?ProdID=1560&BrandID=18 I use puralator pure 1 filters or mobile 1 filters and mobile 1 synthetic oil 90%-95% and 10%-5% marvel mystery oil. ALL APPLICATIONS, read this, http://www.fernblatt.com/longhurst/engineoil_bible.html http://www.melling.com/engoil.html http://www.melling.com/highvol.html https://dallnd6.dal.mobil.com/GIS/MobilPDS.nsf/26b7c4b33367a4a086256665004e4266/61638dff7d0453b085256b8400618b40?OpenDocument http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3oilfilter.html read this over carefully IVE POSTED MOST OF THIS BEFORE BUT IT FITS HERE AS A SOURCE OF INFO FOR THE NEWER GUYS the thinner the oil the faster it flows, the faster it gets to the surfaces that need the oil film, and the easier it is for the oil to flow thru the clearances,the engines operating temp. the engines clearances,and the oils thermal limits plus the engines ability to maitain sufficiant oil pressure and volume over the engine entire operating range effects the best oil choice. since mineral and SYNTHETIC OILS in the 10w30 or 10w-40 range are the standard for most engines thats what the clearances are set up for in most engines I found this diagram I find it interesting but all the data I've seen before I saw this diagram and which I trust considerably more than this diagram tends to point to slightly higher average temperatures being ideal. I have repeatedly said that your oil temp should keep above 215° to allow moisture to burnout of the oil and that your coolant temp should stay in the 180-220 range SMOKEY YUNICK, in several places in several books, refers to extensive dyno testing he did for General Motors, where they consistently found, that both engine wear and hp production benefited when the oil temp stayed above 215° but below 240°, and the coolant temperature stayed between 180 and 220, degrees, or as SMOKEY said, trying keep your oil hot, but your coolant, about 20 to 30° lower in temperature but the coolant should never be below 180°, and should not exceed 220°, while temperature should never below the below 215°, and 235 to 240 is about ideal, mineral base oils tend to start breaking down over 240°, synthetic oils can easily handle temperatures up in the 270 degree range in for extended periods, but they performed best in their lubrication in cleaning function went down in the 240 range http://www.melling.com/highvol.html http://www.melling.com/engoil.html ok lets look at a few things, pressure is the result of a resistance to flow , no matter how much oil is put out by the oil pump there is almost no pressure unless there is a resistance to that oil flow and the main resistance is from oil trying to flow through the bearing surface clearances and once the pumps output pressure exceeds the engines ability to accept the oilflow at the max pressure the oil return system/bypass spring allows the oil circles back through the pump ,now the amount of oil flow necessary to reach the furthest parts in the engine from the oil pump does not go up in direct relation to rpm, but it instead increases with rpm at a steadly increaseing rate that increases faster than the engine rpm due to centrifugal force draining the oil from the rods as they swing faster and faster since energy increases with the square of the velocity the rate of oil use goes up quite a bit faster due to the greatly increased (G-FORCES) pulling oil from the rod bearings over 5000rpm going to 8000rpm than the rate of oil flow increases from 2000 rpm to 5000rpm (the same 3000rpm spread) and remember the often stated (10 lbs per 1000rpm)needs to be measured at the furthest rod and main bearing from the pump not at the pump itself, next lets look at the oil flow itself, you have about 5-6 quarts in an average small block now the valve covers never get and hold more than about 1/3 to 2/3 of a quart each even at 8000 rpm (high speed photography by SMOKEY YUNICK doing stock car engine research with clear plastic valve covers prove that from what Ive read) theres about 1 quart in the lifter gallery at max and theres about 1 quart in the filter and in the oil passages in the block, that leaves at least 2 quarts in the pan at all times and for those that want to tell me about oil wrapped around the crankshaft at high rpms try squirting oil on a spinning surface doing even 2000rpm (yes thats right its thrown off as fast as it hits by centrifugal force, yes its possiable for the crankshaft WITHOUT A WINDAGE SCREEN to keep acting like a propeler and pulling oil around with it in the crank case but thats what the wrap around style milodon type windage screen is designed to stop)the only way to run out of oil is to start with less than 4 quarts or to plug the oil return passages in the lifter gallery with sludge or gasket material! now add a good windage tray and a crank scrapper and almost all the oil is returned to the sump as it enters the area of the spinning crankshaft! forming a more or less endless supply to the oil pump, BTW almost all pro teams now use DRY SUMP SYSTEMS WITH POSITIVE DISPLACEMENT GERATOR PUMPS that are 3,4,or 5 stage pumps each section of which has more voluum than a standard voluum oil pump because its been found total oil control is necessary at high rpms to keep bearings cool and lubed NOW I POSTED THIS BEFORE BUT IT NEEDs REPEATING ok look at it this way,what your trying to do here is keep an pressureized oil film on the surface of all the bearings to lube and cool them and have enough oil spraying from the rod and main bearing clearances to lube the cam and cylinder walls/rings. now a standard pump does a good job up to 5000rpm and 400 hp but above 6000rpm and 400hp the bearings are under more stress and need more oilflow to cool and because the pressure on the bearings is greater you need higher pressures to maintain that oilfilm.lets look at the flow verus pressure curve. since oil is a liquid its non-compressable and flow will increase with rpm up to the point where the bypass circuit starts to re-route the excess flow at the point were the pressure exceeds the bypass spring pressure. but the voluum will be equal to the pumps sweep voluum times the rpm of the pump, since the high voluum pump has a sweep voluum 1.3-1.5 times the standard pump voluum it will push 1.3-1.5 times the voluum of oil up to the bypass cicuit cut in point,that means that since the engine bearings leakage rate increases faster as the rpms increase because the clearances don,t change but the bleed off rate does that the amount of oil and the pressure that it is under will increase faster and reach the bypass circuit pressure faster with the high voluum pump. the advantage here is that the metal parts MUST be floated on that oil film to keep the metal parts from touching/wearing and the more leakage points the oil flows by the less the voluum of oil thats available for each leakage point beyond it and as the oil heats up it becomes easier to push through the clearences.now as the rpms and cylinder preasures increase in your goal to add power the loads trying to squeeze that oil out of those clearances also increase. ALL mods that increase power either increase rpms,cylinder preasures or reduce friction or mechanical losses. there are many oil leakage points(100) in a standard chevy engine. 16 lifter to push rod points 16 pushrod to rocker arm points 32 lifter bores 16 x 2 ends 10 main bearing edges 9 cam bearing edges 16 rod bearing edges 2 distributor shaft leaks 1 distributor shaft to shim above the cam gear(some engines [/color] that have an oil pressure feed distributor shaft bearing.) so the more oil voluum the better,(AS LONG AS ITS TOTALLY UNDER CONTROL ON BOTH THE PRESSURE AND RETURN/SCAVAGEING SIDES OF THE SYSTEMchevy did an excelent job in the design but as the stresses increase the cooling voluum of the extra oil available from the larger pump helps to prevent lubracation delivery failure, do you need a better pump below 5000rpm or 400hp (no) above that level the extra oil will definitely help possiable deficient oil flow and bearing cooling and a simple increase in pressure does not provide a big increase in voluum that may be necessary to keep that oil film in the correct places at the correct voluum at all times.the stock system was designed for a 265cid engine in a passenger car turning a max of about 6000 rpm but only haveing the stress of under 300hp transmitted to the bearings, Im sure the orriginal designers never thought that the sbc or bbc would someday be asked to on occasion hold up to 450-800hp and 6000-8000 rpm.nore did they forsee valvesprings that placed 500lbs and up loads on the lifters and the use of over 9 to 1 compression ratios in the original design so the oil voluums and pressures necessary to cool those valve springs and bearings at those stress levels were never taken into account for that either. Continued (oil Pan/pump) the oil pump can only pump as much oil as the engine clearances allow at the max pressure that the oil pump bye -pass circuit will allow, and no more. for your idea to be correct (which it could be under some conditions)the oil flow through the engine clearances would need to be so great that the pump turning at 3500rpm,7000rpm engine speed(remember the pump spins 1/2 the speed the crank does)and most likely pumping at max pressure could lower the oil level to the point that the pick-up becomes uncovered or a vortex as you call it forms and the pump starts sucking air. now under hard acceleration it is very possiable for the pickup on ANY oil pump to to become uncovered in a oil pan that has less than 5qt capacity and with no oil control baffles as the oil rushes to the rear of the oil pan if the pick-up is located in mid pan or under hard brakeing if the pick-up is located at the rear of the pan on a non- oil baffle controlled pan. I will grant you that it is possiable for ANY oil pump to pump a good amount of oil into the lifter gallery at high rpms IF THE OIL RETURN PASSAGES IN THE HEADS AND LIFTER GALLERY ARE BLOCKED, preventing its normal return to the crankcase , but running a high volume oil pump will have little or nothing to do with how much oil is in the pan if the engines drain back holes are clear and your useing a milodon style windage screen. I have several times had that same complaint about lack of oil pressure under acceleration but it is caused by a non-baffled pan or the pickup mounted so close to the pan bottom that the pump cant get a good intake flow, if you carefully check youll find that on a dyno runs it seldom happens,because the oil is constantly removed by the windage screen is returned to the sump, most of the oil pumped into the system exits at the rod and main bearing clearances or at the cam bearings and from the lifter bores lower ends, its not the constant oil flow or lack of oil into the rocker arms that has the big effect on total oil flow as SMOKEY YUNICKS PHOTOGRAPIC RESEARCH PROVED YEARS AGO,its the oil flowing from the bearings and lifters and that oil flow is quickly returned to the sump by a windage screen scrapeing it off the spinning crank and rods as the spinning assembly passes over the windage screen. in effect most of the oil in an engine works like your timeing chain in that it constantly cycles top to botton and back never getting higher than the cam bearing lifter area. now what does quite frequently happen [/color] is that the guys installing a high volume oil pump just swap out the standard pump, reinstall the stock or simular pick-up and bolt on the pan with the pick-up in the stock possition on the oil pump. the stock pick-up is mounted about 3/8" off the pan bottom,the high volume pump is normally equiped with impeller gears about .3 inches longer than stock, the high volume pump body is that much lower in the pan, resultting in the pick-up being only about 1/8" from the pan bottom. the result is that on a normal chevy oil pump pick-up this leave a space of about 1/8" x 2.5" for oil to flow into the pump. at low rpms this works but as the rpms climb the pick-up that can,t get any oil to pump cavitates as it spins and fails to pump oil, result oil pressure drops untill rpms are lowered no matter how much oil is over the pick-up. simply checking to make sure that anout 1/2" of space is under the pick-up when the pan is installed cures that problem (a simple trick is to weld a 1/2" thick nut to the oil pump Pick-up base and test fitting the pan BEFORE WELDING THE PICK-UP TO THE PUMP BODY) what it comes down too in every case that Ive looked into so far is a improperly positioned pick-up or a non- baffled oil pan without a windage screen or less than 5 qts of oil in the system, not a problem of all available oil being pumped into the lifter gallery and valve covers like some people would like you to think. the MELLING COMPANY HAS THIS TO SAY Most of the stock automobile engines are designed to operate from idle to 4500 RPM. The original volume and pressure oil pump will work fine in this type of application. As the demands on the engine increase so does the demands on the oiling system and pump. The oil pump's most difficult task is to supply oil to the connecting rod bearing that is the farthest from the pump. To reach this bearing, the oil travels from three to four feet, turns numerous square corners thru small holes in the crankshaft to the rod bearing. The rod bearing doesn't help matters. It is traveling in a circle which means centrifugal force is pulling the oil out of the bearing. A 350 Chevy has a 3.4811 stroke and a 2.111 rod journal. The outer edge of the journal travels 17.5311 every revolution. At 1000 RPM, the outer edge is traveling at 16.6 MPH and 74.7 MPH at 4500 RPM. If we take this engine to 6500 the outer edge is up to 107.9 and at 8500 it is 141.1 MPH. Now imagine driving a car around a curve at those speeds and you can feel the centrifugal force. Now imagine doing it around a circle with a 5.581, diameter. The size of the gears or rotors determines the amount of oil a pump can move at any given RPM. Resistance to this movement creates the pressure. If a pump is not large enough to meet the demands of the engine, there will not be any pressure. Or if the demands of the engine are increased beyond the pumps capabilities there will be a loss of oil pressure. This is where high volume pumps come in; they take care of any increased demands of the engine. Increases in the engine's oil requirements come from higher RPM, being able to rev faster, increased bearing clearances, remote oil cooler and/or filter and any combination of these. Most high volume pumps also have a increase in pressure to help get the oil out to the bearings faster. That is what a high volume pump will do. Now let Is consider what it will not do. It will not replace a rebuild in a worn-out engine. It may increase pressure but the engine is still worn-out. It will not pump the oil pan dry. Both solid and hydraulic lifters have metering valves to limit flow of the oil to the top of the engine. If a pan is pumped dry, it is because the holes that drain oil back to the pan are plugged. If the high volume pump is also higher pressure, there will be a slight increase in flow to the top. let me point out this chart http://www.diabolicalperformance.com/clearances.html heres other info, http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar10180.htm http://www.thirskauto.net/BearingPics.html http://www.waynesgarage.com/docs/oil.htm http://www.jimcookperformance.com/TechNotes/TN%2023.html http://www.cryoeng.com/images/EngineDurabilitySecrets.htm http://www.melling.com/engoil.html http://members.aol.com/carleyware/library/engine2t.htm unless your willing to install a high volume baffled oil pan with a properly installed windage screen you will more than likely not be controlling the oil flow in your engine to its full extent and you might just be better off running a standard Z28 sbc oil pump I have done for years whenever the oil pan clearances would allow the use of a standard voluum big block oil pump, the advantages of 12 tooth gears (over the standard 7 tooth gears in a sbc pump) for smoother running and the 3/4" inlet pickup size (over the common 5/8" sbc size)the slightly higher voluum of oil that builds pressure faster and the stronger pump design are benefits. (not huge but I use every thing I can get that returns a resonable return in performance for the money spent) #21-210 SBC with BBC (5 bolt) oil pump conversion oil pump Drive Shaft http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/oil_pumps/acc.html http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/oil_pumps/acc.html don,t forget to braze the pickup onto the oil pump or use the bolt on style pickup AND THE USE OF A WINDAGE SCREEN AND A BAFFLED OIL PAN to control oil flow THAT HAS A 6QT MINIMUM voluum is a great IDEA now as to the HORSEPOWER necessary to drive the bigger oil pumps, the WORST Ive ever seen on a dyno was a 4 hp loss due to the larger pumps, but in most cases the differance is LESS, PERSONALLY ILL ALWAYS TRADE A LOSS OF 4 HP for A MUCH STEADIER OIL PRESSURE TO THE BEARING SURFACES THAT A PROPERLY SET UP OIL SYSTEM WITH THAT HIGH VOLUME PUMP, AND 7-8 QT oil pan with windage screen gives you!

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/speedometer_calibration_______va.htm http://members.core.com/~faldrich/speedo.htm http://www.speedometershop.com/ratio.html http://www.customconversion.com/ http://www.thirdgenresource.com/inc/pdetail?v=1&pid=2047 http://www.2quicknovas.com/happypinions.html http://highperformancecars.com/crosley/700id.htm http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/84121/ http://www.5speeds.com/t5/index.html http://www.gearheadracing.com/Reference/TransID/muncie.htm http://64.226.206.184/tech_info/trans_dims_tables.htm http://www.streetrodinnovators.com/rear_end_narrowing.htm http://www.turbobuicks.com/members/scottiegnz/vette-irs-swap.htm http://www.geocities.com/z28esser/speed.html http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/gear_ratios.htm http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/trans_dims.htm http://www.wilcap.com/webdoc8.htm'>http://www.wilcap.com/webdoc8.htm http://www.rocky-road.com/diffid.html http://www.younger-bros.com/differential_identification_chart.htm http://www.drivetrain.com/autotranscrossref.html http://www.highriders.ca/documents/axle_spotter_guide.htm http://www.nastyz28.com/transid.html http://www.derbypro.com/tut8.html http://www.dynotecheng.com/index.html http://www.magnumforce.com/store4/mark_williams/driveshaft.htm http://www.dfwmotorsport.com/Fairlane/9inchrearends.htm heres more rear differential info http://www.gearheadracing.com/Reference/Differential/FordDiffer/FordDiffer.htm heres some places to look for ideas http://www.ridgenet.net/~biesiade/Fordrears.html http://www.nationwideparts.com/differentials.htm http://www.kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm http://www.ridgenet.net/~biesiade/gearinstal.html http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/9inch/ http://www.markwilliams.com/ http://www.craigslist.org/sfo/sby/car/5581394.html http://www.tsmmfg.com/2500.htm http://www.geocities.com/cping3/lincolnversailles.html http://www.dfwmotorsport.com/Fairlane/9inchrearends.htm http://www.drivetrain.com/ringpinioninstal.html http://www.gearsareus.com/ http://www.markwilliams.com/technical/sb0015.pdf http://www.markwilliams.com/technical/sb0016.pdf http://www.markwilliams.com/technical/sb0017.pdf http://www.markwilliams.com/technical/sb0013.pdf http://www.new9inch.com/ http://www.2quicknovas.com/happyrearends.html http://www.highriders.ca/documents/axle_spotter_guide.htm http://www.dfwmotorsport.com/Fairlane/9inchrearends.htm http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/engine_mounts.htm http://www.vintagespeed.com/engadap.htm http://www.kennedyeng.com/ http://www.wilcap.com/

hemis are 40 year old tech. even the new "HEMI" is a twisted wedge not a true hemi, the last true hemis were the 392 and 426 hemis in the 50s-70s look at the cost to hp differance the hemi weight more, is larger and costs about $3000 more for the same power levels http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=122&pid=122 http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=122&pid=614 if you want to run MOPAR HERES A GOOD DEAL http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=122&pid=618 BUT KEEP IN MIND CHEVY HAS A BETTER SELECTION OF PARTS AND LOWER AVERAGE PRICES the twisted wedge bbc is a better and easier to install package http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=3449&pid=156314 anything you can do to the hemi to increase power you can do to the bbc, and extract equal or better power for less expence with only one exception, and that exception is running huge percentages of nitromethane fuel, but untill you get to hp levels over 2000hp the bbc still easily wins the hp per dollar spend race! now I love the older 392 hemis,but it will cost you easily an additional 30% more to build and race a hemi btw they now make (HEMI CHEVYS) http://www.sonnysracing.com

I had this question asked and its a good one Using the CR calculator on the first link above, http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/compressionratio.htm if I input a piston top volume that is positive for a dished piston, then change the piston top volume to zero for a flat-top, the CR goes down. If I add a negative number (for a dome), the CR drops again. Isn't this backwards? Is the calculator messed up, or is there something I'm missing. I inputted the specs into the calculator taken from here. http://www.beckracing.com/page48.htm yes the instructions on the site seem backwards but the calculator itself is correct adding dome volume does increase cpr,removing valve notch volume from a flat top does REDUCE cpr this is listed at +20 cc but it MEANS +20cc (to the total combustion chamber net volume) this is listed at +5.5cc but its really +5.5cc(to the total combustion chamber net volume) remember what they are saying is that that plus 20cc ADDS 20cc TO THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER VOLUME, which reduces the TRUE compression, thus when useing the calculator you would ADD a NEGATIVE VOLUME TO THE TOTAL FOR A DISHED PISTON AND SUBTRACT A DOME VOLUME heres a ZERO VOLUME (FLAT TOP) this piston has a slight dome and has a NET 1cc REDUCTION IN CHAMBER VOLUME as the dome has 1cc MORE volume than the combined valve notches it will be easier to understand if you use the listed cc volumes quoted for the pistons and add or subtract them from the combustion chamber volume data and always leave the piston input as a true flat top while figuring the cpr with the calculator

http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=120&pid=463

theres little doubt that the sbc is the engine with the easyest install and most parts support, yet thats not the only choice, If I build another (Z) Im more than likely going to try and use a 500 caddy engine, and turbo 400 trans WHY? well the advantages are massive torque, low cost, distributor front mounted to allow more rear weight distrabition low engine weight and size thats just slightly larger than a sbc http://www.team.net/sol/tech/engine.html http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/7062/engine.html http://www.remanufactured-engines.com/page11.htm http://www.500cid.com/mts/info.htm careful parts selection should allow a 400hp/500ft lb engine for well under $3500

I seriously doubt youll get to 500hp useing block hugger 1 5/8 or 1 3/4" headers and a exhaust pipe ,without nitrous, look over the post on making your own headers, full length headers significantly add to cylinder scavaging , block huggers are mainly designed for easy installation and are only slightly better than factory cast exhaust manifolds Im going to need to make a custom set when I install my 496 bbc in my 1985 corvette,Ill try and take pics. then,unfortunatly that will not be for a few months

dozens of times, simply because its mandatory if your doing engine swaps like installing a 392 hemi in a pontiac GTO, if nothing else youll learn to weld and fabricate heres what I do,(keep in mind the exhaust system after the headers effects performance to a large extent too, so Id advise a MINIMUM of an (X) of collector dia. mounted close to the collectors to ballance flow and reduce back pressure if its possiable to install one http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm http://www.majer-tech.com.pl/Exaust_Theory.htm http://www.btinternet.com/~mezporting/exhaust_length.html http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/flomstr1e.htm http://store.summitracing.com/product.asp?d=8&s=127&p=608&searchtype=ecat&l=FLO http://www.headersbyed.com/chevsbv8.htm http://www.stainlessworks.net/Header%20Flanges.htm http://www.stahlheaders.com/Frame%20Flanges.htm http://www.headersbyed.com/hdrkits.htm http://www.cachassisworks.com/header.htm http://www.mazdatrix.com/fabricators.htm Ive tried to stay out of this but I might as well jump in and get involvedIve done this many times its not that hard. heres what I do, get some of that plastic smurf tubeing in the 2" dia size and some ceiling hanger wire and some of that hard set constuction insulation foam. now weld 1" stubs of the exhaust tube to the header flange exhaust ports and bolt it to the cylinder heads. clamp the collectors to a 6 foot section of 2x6" wood and jack it up solid under the car (collectors not touching the car anywhere)to position them where you want them under the car, now cut (8) sections of smurf tubeing too about 36"-42" long(theres a formula to figure the exact length)slide 4-6 pieces of ceiling suspension wire in each tube with the ends looped over inside the tube. now startin with the upper inside collector position and the rear exhaust port, bend and fit the smurf tubeing to fit, the next forward exhaust port goes to the lower inside collector port the next exhaust to the upper outside collector port and the furthest forward to the lower outside collector port , once they are all bent to fit shoot the tubes full of hardening construction foam, let it harden and then pull each individual tube off one at a time and duplicate it in steel tubeing,(or have your local muffler shop duplicate it) this method REALLY makes the fit and try time minimal. and assures equal length tube headers.SMURF TUBE is flexable plastic electrical conduit thats normally BLUE or ORANGE and COMMONLY called smurf tubeing by contractors its a plastic version of that metal GREENFIELD tubeing that electrical contractors use but its cheaper and easier to work with, it resembles a canister type vacuum cleaner pickup hose but stiffer, its available at big hardware stores,and electrical supply houses dirt cheap in 10' lengths about $6 each or les you will need (3)BTW the 4-6 wires act like rebar in concrete, the loops keep the wires from moveing in the foam while their incased in the construction foam, the hard plastic foam is what keeps it stiff and no it will not be exact you will still need to tweak it to get it to fit but it will speed up the process of making the tube pattern shapes. just keep in mind that you can buy headers fairly cheaply (under $300 in many cases) for most cars its when you go and get an odd ball combo this comes in handy, like putting a 502bbc in a 57 vette or a 392 hemi in a 63 falcon, or you need headers for a LS1 in you 67 camaroHERES INFO YOU CAN USE ,...USE THE CALCULATOR PROGRAMS THATS WHAT THEY ARE THERE FORand keep in mind the displacement and rpm levels effect the dia. and length of both the primaries and collectors, these MUST VARY IN DIA. and LENGTH TO MATCH THE ENGINES EXHAUST PULSE TIMEING so that a NEGATIVE PRESSURE WAVE WILL BE CORRECTLY TIMED to SCAVAGE THE CYLINDERS EFFICIENTLY at the desired rpm range if you want other temps look here http://www.convertalot.com/downloads.html heres a quick cross check http://www.btinternet.com/~mezporting/exhaust_length.html http://www.slowgt.com/Calc2.htm#Header ( (btw its not((Degrees ATDC)they mean subtract the BBDC from 180 degs. then use the answer and the rpm level should be picked for the expected torque peak http://www.prestage.com/carmath/calc_headerlength.asp [ or if your really lazy http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm and the answers in meters (about 39"=1 meter example , my 383 vette has a cam with exhaust cam timing that opens at 83degs bbdc, thats 97 degs atdc, http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=119661&B1=Display+Card Bore: (Inches) 4.03"<BR>Exhaust Valve Opening Point: (Degrees ATDC) 97 degs Peak Power RPM: 5500rpm Calculated information appears below Header Pipe Diameter: (Inches) 1.84"< Header Pipe Length: (Inches) 37.65 Collector Diameter: (Inches) 3.5 Collector Length: (Inches) 18.82 http://store.yahoo.com/exhaustpros/hustxpi.html btw these should be considered MINIMUMS

a (Y) would work just fine placed after the (X) but youll want to keep in mind that the CROSS SECTIONAL AREA of a 3" collector is about 7 sq inches, , dual 3" pipes exiting a 3"(X) have about 14 sq inches of area would require about a 4" exit from a (Y) to not pose a restriction, remember the idea here is to have performance matching or exceeding open headers while maintaining a low weigth, lower noise levels and low cost

I think youll be surprized at the torque and power range that a properly tuned cross ram has once its properly set up and adjusted. either 450 holley or 500-600 (carbs normally require a slightly richer jetting) while the guys are correct that the larger 383-406 sbcs will will be able to use the flow to better advantage , I don,t see any real reason not to install and test out that OFFY on the 327,350 size engines, remember the intake was designed to match the air flow of a 302 in the 4000rpm-7500rpm range to produce max power,so that same air flow will be reached at aproximately 500-700rpm lower, on a 350 or 1000rpm-1100rpm lower for a 406. now I have used the CRANE 114681 solid lifter cam as a good match to that intakes intended rpm range and flow charicteristics in the past with excellent results, but keep in mind that combo will only work to its best effect in a car geared so that the engine spends most of its time in that same rpm range (3500-6500in the case of a 383-406) which will require a manual trans or 3000rpm stall speed and 4.11-4.56 rear gears in most cases Part numbers are 5893 base, 5903 for the dual-four top, 5902 for the linkage. both SUMMIT AND JEGS CAN GET IT FOR YOU

I have very limited experiance with the C-5 corvettes having only worked on less than 10 so far,I can not at this time give a valid answer to which headers are best! but I can tell you that they will tend to be slightly shorter primaries and slightly larger in dia. than the typical gen 1 sbc because the heads breath better on average at all rpm levels, my engine software suggests 1 3/4" minimum btw heres a much less complcated calculator than I use http://www.btinternet.com/~mezporting/exhaust_length.html things to read http://grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/exhaustheaders.cfm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm http://headerdesign.com/

heres THE BASICS http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft2.htm (look at the bottom , scroll down to pushrod engine) http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/compressionratio.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm http://www.turboclub.com/turbotech/TurboFun1.htm http://www.superchargeronline.com/content.asp?ID=15 you really should get these books and read them before going any further, it will help a good deal, while only the basic info is presented it still makes for a good knowledge base, and referance DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR buy these books, FIRST it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. youll save thousands of dollars and thousands of hours once youve got a good basic understanding of what your trying to do! http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0912656069/ref=pd_sxp_elt/102-1234339-0571324?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1557880298/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books HOW TO BUILD THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVEROLET by LARRY ATHERTON&LARRY SCHREIB . HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD . JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines how to build & modify CHEVROLET small-block V-8 CAMSHAFTS & VALVTRAINS BY DAVID VIZARD SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS SMALL BLOCK CHEVY ENGINE BUILDUPS [ http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1557882169/qid=1075079777/sr=2-1/ref=sr_2_1/102-1234339-0571324 http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0912656042/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0895861755/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1884089208/ref=pd_sim_books_1/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1557883572/ref=pd_sim_books_3/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0760302030/qid=1075080362/sr=1-2/ref=sr_1_2/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0837601606/qid=1075256366//ref=pd_ka_1/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books&n=507846 http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0837608619/ref=pd_sim_books_2/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1557883939/ref=pd_sim_books_2/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/076030422X/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0895861356/ref=pd_sim_books_3/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books

theres MILLIONS of guys running 350 two bolt blocks with few problems, if your block has only two bolt caps you have two options, you can add ARP studs if you want to increase the caps holding strength about 30%-50% or you can convert that two bolt block to splayed 4 bolt caps if your really concerned , but unless your over about 450hp I would not be even slightly worried http://www.flatlanderracing.com/callies_maincaps.html http://www.flatlanderracing.com/maincaps_oliver.html ARP ,two bolt main cap bolts will work ok at the 450hp level but heres some splayed caps, if your interested, be aware that your going to spend between $400-$550 in most machine shops by the time you figure on the $200 for the caps themselfs and added to the machine work expense, to get them correctly installed on a 2 bolt block,in your case its more than likely wasted money, but if you feel better knowing they are there...... well all I can say is I bite the bullet and get them installed simply because with everyones plans changing over time and a shot of nitrous as a future option in most high performance engines they add a good deal of strength this is a great example of project cost creap, yes youll more than likely NEVER use the extra strength, and yes its more than likely wasted money, but many of us just look at it and say, hell, its a good investment in the bottom end strength... and Ill feel better knowing their there!, the money would be better spent in almost every case on better quality rods in most cases simply because rods and rod bolts fail far more often than caps do! its insane in most cases to go to the expense of splayed caps on the block if your still running stock connecting rods, invest in good quality (H) style rods with 7/16" ARP rod bolts and a STEEL CRANK before worrying about SPLAYED MAIN CAPS http://www.racenet.net/eng/arp-main-studs.php HERE the STUDS that should be used to replace the stock main cap bolts, they ate far stronger, ... don,t forget a good MILODON windage screen and a high volume oil pan, they are very important to insuring long engine life at high rpm levels

well it does NOT sound like a typical V-8,infact it sounds more like a nitrous 4 cylinder but with a deeper growl THE FIRST (x) at least in theory, SPLITS THE PULSES, equally, SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCES BACK PRESSURE AND AIDS SCAVAGING, THE SECOND ALLOWS THEM TO RUN INTO EACH OTHER WHICH TENDS TO LOWER AND MUTE THE SOUND AND FURTHER INCREASE SCAVAGING and smooth and equalize the exhaust flow IT WORKS, NOT PERFECTLY, BUT IT WORKS

this post I made had little to do with chevys, (TRUE IM GUILTY) but what it did have to do with is my expectation that after several years of answering questions and helping everyone on this site, too at least some extent by posting info, and answering questions and hundreds of personal E-MAILS, that I had a few guys that would take the time to point out a few things to ME about how YOU FEEL about an idea/investment thank you gentelmen, your thoughts and IDEAS are what I was after here, as many of you know I crushed an ankle and it appears that my old job I retired from skills are history so Im looking at options to help my retirement cash flow. the total point of this thread was I felt (obviously I might have been wrong here) that I might get a few (friends to point me in the correct dirrection) the REASON I posted this in the CHEVY section is that anyone on this site KNOWS 90% of the guys on the site read and respond to that section while most of you never bother to read some of the other sections at all, (LOOK AT THE POST COUNT PER SECTION) after thinking things over , I realize that most of the guys would be willing to help,....... , if those few of you that don,t feel helping someone on the site with a question, is the correct thing to do unless the question is in the correct forum get upset with the way I assumed I was talking to friends here, I guess thats just the way the world is! I will continue to post and will attempt to place posts in the correct forums so as not to ruffle feathers, but I learned something!

David Karey while your points been taken under advisement your acting like Ive some how insulted you! WHY? IF THE GUYS DON,T WANT ME TO POST HERE JUST SAY SO!, I HAVE OTHER FORUMS , I CAN POST AT,OR I CAN NOT POST AT ALL<I THOUGHT I WAS HELPING OUT! IN FACT IM THE PERFORMANCE MODERATOR ON 5 CORVETTE SITES,AND I HAVE RUN AN ENGINE REBUILDING SERVICE

cats = cheap practice targets for a #1 driver (golf club) I have 4 dashounds that catch and kill every mouse they can find, and they only want to be rubbed/petted, in return,they have never scratched anything. they raise HOLY #$%^ if anyone they don,t know even drives by the property, and will run in and try to get me to come look, everytime a car turns into the driveway, try that with your cat!