grumpyvette

but this may help you http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcdchg.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calccarb.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcafhp.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech-c.htm http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/mopp_0902_port_injected_cross_ram_manifold/index.html http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan...a/effarea.html http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcraf...runnerarea.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/toc.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech-c.htm http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/T...92/vizard.html http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm http://www.mortec.com/carbtip1.htm http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html http://www.centuryperformance.com/vacuum.asp the question usually goes " what size carb do I need," or something similar, 4v carbs are rated at a flow rate determined with a vacume or pressure drop of 1.5" of mercury, your best power AT WIDE OPEN THROTTLE AT MAX RPMS will generally be found with a carb that lowers the presure drop or vacume to between 0.5" and 1.0" of vacume, not 1.5" at full throttle,more vacume at full throttle indicates a slight restriction to flow, now on a street car thats not going to be much if and problem, but on a race cars engine its a sign that your potentially giving away some potential power. lets look at your comon 600cfm carb some of you guys use, a 0.5 inches of vacume it flows only about 350cfm, at 1.0" it flows about 500cfm, at 1.5" it flows about 600 cfm , rated like a two barrel at 3.0" of vacume it flows close to 780cfm, and if you stuck it on a 600 cubic inch big block spinning 6000rpm youll pull about 6" of vacume and it would flow about 1000cfm plus! now remember youll try to stay in the .5" to 1.5" range at full throttle, to make good power. now some of you might notice that the flow dropped NOTICABLY once the vacume dropped and dropping the vacume at wide open throttle tends to help power, provided the a/f ratio is kept near 12.7-13.0:1,AND the engine is set up to USE the flow available to it. VOLUMETRIC EFFICIENCY in theory a cylinder fills to 100% full, but the limited time the valves are open and the ports restrictive flow will only allow that to happen at a narrow rpm range your engines torque curve on an rpm scale closely mirrors the engines efficincy at filling the cylinders, on that same scale, once the cam timing and port flow become a restriction power falls off because theres less fuel /air mix burnt per power stroke, the power tends to keep going up for alittle further in the rpm band simply because theres MORE ,thou slightly less effective power strokes per minute. at 1000rpm theres 500 intake strokes per minute thats 8 per second times the intake valve opens and closes, at 6500rpm thats 54 times a second, not much time when you think about what needs to flow thru that port in the limited time....especially if you remember that of that 720 degrees in the cycle only about 240 degrees have any useful flow potential, so you just cut even that time by 2/3rds some of you may have figgured out that to get the lower vacume or restriction, youll want a larger carb or perhaps two carbs, remember were trying to get that .5"-1.0" of vacume at full throttle, and that 600cfm carb is not going to flow 600cfm, at that vacume reading but between about 350-500cfm, so if you have an engine that can take full advantage of the flow it may, and usually does require a larger carb to make max power,that 383 might require an 800-850cfm carb or two 600 cfm carbs (since you double the venturie cross sectional area with two carbs the vacume reading is generally cut to about 1/2 what it was and the two 600 cfm carbs now flow about 350cfm each or 700cfm per pair) yet the carb size is just NOT all that critical,to making fairly decent (NOT MAXIMUM POWER) simply because as the vacume signal goes up, so does the carbs flow rate, and as the vacume signal strength goes down so does the flow RESPONCE! up till now we are talking only FULL THROTTLE POWER, but you operate under a wide range of rpms and loads, put that larger carb on a small engine and it makes good power at wide open throttle, but it also tends to have a weak vacume signal at off idle rpm ranges and it may run like crap! so a ballance must be accepted. smaller carbs are generally more responsive, but slightly more restrictive with thier smaller venturies. http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/0304_intake_manifolds_contrast/index.html http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/induction_poweradders/sucp_0612_big_block_tunnel_ram_intake/index.html

Only a MASOCHIST would shoot a rifle like that with out a serious military style sling wrapped firmly in a spiral around their left forearm arm ,the left hand gripping the stock forearm with the sling attachment behind the forward hand with the sling held between the forearm and hand with a firm grip with the hand extended taking up all slack , sling goes behind the left elbow and stretched snuggly across the chest,and a firm grip on both hands with the sling stetched tight enought across the chest that the whole upper body is pushed as recoil tries to draw the sling rearward or without a shooting vest with a serious recoil absorbing pad on their shoulder sewn into the vest http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=00094330110 hard to explain, easy to demonstrate, this allows the arms and chest to absorb most of the energy not the right shoulder

sometimes you just want, and need a 550 grain slug pushed to 1900fps,-2000fps it makes it a no contest deal when you go too knock water filled milk jugs off fence posts at 200 yards, or punching holes in 20" tree stumps, and we all know how important that can be in daily life!! besides its fun to watch guys who have never shot anyhing larger than a 30/30 try to hold back the tears when they have no clue how to properly hold and shoot a stopping rifle and refuse to take your offer of instruction because "THEY HAVE BEEN HUNTING ALL THIER LIVES AND KNOW HOW TO SHOOT" two minutes instruction in proper use of a sling and how to hold a powerful rifle makes a HUGE difference in the recoil they get slamed with, held properly the whole upper body moves with the guns recoil, held incorrectly and its like trying to stop a sledge hammer with your shoulder,

The main thing you need to understand when bedding a rifle action is WHAT you’re trying to accomplish and why and how some things are done to reach the goal. The main goal is insuring CONSISTANCY; the idea is to lock the action firmly into the stock without inducing stress to the action that will change, the way the barrel vibrates as it changes temperature. Generally you’ll want to provide a totally solid foundation, in the stock for the action to bed against that exactly matches the lower receiver’s contours, a section of threaded brass tubing cut slightly shorter than the locking bolts, recessed length and placed in the bolt holes and epoxy, mixed with aluminum dust, as a sub structure works really effectively provided the are its attached to is rough and porous enough for it to get an excellent grip, in place, holding the action in place , and insuring consistent, and easily repeatable action location in the stock. Ive generally found the action and the first 3 inches of barrel being epoxied supported in the stock is a good idea http://www.brownells.com/ http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/catsearch.aspx?k=bedding%20kit&ps=10&si=True Sells good bedding kits and release agents Waxing the metal parts then coating them with both a single thickness of masking tape and a release agent will tend to prevent epoxies from bonding where it’s not wanted A cross bolt behind the recoil lug(s) can be epoxy glued into the stock on the higher recoil level calibers as an extra precaution, a common mistake is not removing a bit of stuck surface and finish under the action and barrel to allow sufficient thickness of the epoxy to have the required strength, and there’s no reason not to use threaded bolt or rods acting like REBAR in concrete in that epoxy bedding foundation in a few cases where extra strength may be required, for example on my 458 LOTT there’s a forward recoil lug, about 5" forward of the action on the barrel, a channel in the stock about 4 inches long and 5/8" wide and 1/3rd of an inch deep was machined and two 1/4" thread rod sections covered with epoxy were installed to back up that recoil lug, and two action length sections were welded to a cross bar and epoxied into the area under and to the sides of the action, behind the main action recoil lug, plus a cross bar bolt just below to prevent the stock from splitting. all obviously not necessary on low recoil level rifles, but on a 458 win or 458 Lott the additional work prevents problems http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/bedding.html http://www.shootingtimes.com/gunsmithing/ST_bedarifle_200904/index3.html http://riflestocks.tripod.com/bedding.html

the roller cam lobe ramps are designed differently,between the two cams, you can run hydraulic roller lifters on only MILD solid roller cams,with low spring load rates (usually under about 235 -240 duration at .050 lift) but verify with your cam manufacturer, before you mis match components and spring rates, most manufacturers have a cover your butt attitude and will suggest you only use parts matched to run together just as they are reluctant to suggest a differant manufacturers lifter can be used on thier cam or thier lifters on a different manufacturers cam,........... you can run solid rollers on almost all billet core hydraulic roller cams (PROVIDED THE CLEARANCES AND SPRING LOAD RATES ARE REASONABLE FOR THE APPLICATION) cast cam cores tend to wear very rapidly under high spring loads, so thats rarely even an option your clearance issue would make me suggest swapping to a different lifter design rather than milling the block for clearance

IM still buying , table vices, cutting bits, bit holders, coolant pumps, coolant oil, drill chucks etc and teaching my sons (verbally as I watch and instruct them)how to set it up and use it, my old leg and back injuries make doing most things required on the machine myself very difficult or totally impossiable at this time, so I need to relie on my sons at times to get things done for me. as Im sure your aware the milling machine is just the basic tool, and theres a good deal more expence in the accessories necessary to get it to function, and trying to instruct a new guy when you can,t acctually demonstrate things at times is fustrating heres the machine they get to learn on http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/Shop-Fox-Vertical-Mill-9-x-49-/T20828

if they clear the headers use them, its just not that comon for there to be adequate clearance or access on all 8 plugs with the strait boots

Accel Extreme 9000 Ceramic Wire Sets ACCEL now offers the cure for burnt spark plug wire boots with Extreme 9000 Ceramic Wire kits. The 8mm Ferro-Spiral core wire now has ceramic boots on the spark plug end of the wires that will withstand up to 2,000° F. If you are running headers with close tolerances, an engine bay with little room, or an RV with boots that melt because of heat, these wire kits are the answer. keep in mind sbc use 90 degree boots and BBC uses 180 degree boots on the plugs in most applications Accel Extreme 9000 Ceramic Wire Sets The ACCEL Extreme 9000 Ceramic wire sets have an ultra high temperature double silicone construction wire rated at 600° F. Rated at 500-ohms per foot of resistance, the Ferro-Spiral core is developed & designed for performance use. It provides excellent energy delivery to the spark plugs, while providing the highest level of RFI/EMI suppression. These universal kits are available with either Straight Boots, 90° Boots or even 115° Ford style boots. The ceramic boots are pre-installed from the factory at the spark plug end. • Ceramic spark plug boots cannot be burned – even if the headers glow red 
 • Spiral wound wire core is safe for electronic ignitions 
 • Improves engine performance, quicker throttle response and reduced emissions 
 • Perfect for extreme use vehicles like hot rods, race cars, truc Contact Information: Accel Phone: 216-688-8300 Site: http://www.accel-ignition.com http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+115+302903&D=302903

if your only looking for a running engine thats an option, heres a different option http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=NAL%2D10067353&autoview=sku http://www.rustpuppy.org/chp/

generally having heads with steam holes and a matching head gasket is the best route with an engine based on a 400 block with its siamesed cylinder bore casting, yes youll find lots of guys running 400 base engines with a decent radiator and aluminum heads, a high volume water pump and yes they get away with it. that doesn,t mean it won,t tend to run cooler with the steam holes in the heads and the correct gasket.

are you talking about a ford 289 sbf or a slightly over bore size 283 chevy? also, Id point out that a running engine for $800 if your looking for transportation may be a bargin , but if your looking for performance a 283 based chevy v8 would hardly be a good basic starting point

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1200

with a TURBO, your cramming high pressure air thru a throttle body, not relieing on outside air pressure to fill the void formed in a cylinder by a rapidly desending piston to fill the cylinder, 90mm will be fine in your case, certainly not a huge restriction with a turbo on only 350 cubic inches of displacement, or put another way,a throttle body with a 90mm bore has a cross section of approximately 6375 sq mm of area, while a dual 58 mm throttle body used on my corvette has about 5293 sq mm of area, or only 83% as large and I know of several guys that are well over 800 hp with turbos on engines running those throttle bodys. 90mm - 1287 CFM rated flow BEFORE you go using a TURBO to cram air thru it, in theory with about 20 psi of boost that throttle body size should very easily support over 1500hp

http://iskycams.com/timingchart.php?product_number=201546 you really have not posted enought info for me to make intelligent suggestions, in comparing cam grinds but if youve got decent heads with the necessary clearances, a low restriction exhaust,a single plane intake, about 11:1 cpr and a decent rear gear ratio like a 4.11:1 or so that you can use the cams potential , sure jump on it

youll kill off valve train control over about 6300rpm, swapping to a hydraulic I WOULD STAY solid lifter

the two cams are similar, but Id have wanted a 108 lsa vs a 114 lsa, in a solid lifter flat tappet cam with a manual trans in a 377sbc. you didn,t give enought info to select the correct duration but assuming you was happy with the crane cam Id suggest something in the similar range

grade 8 is usually fine, ive seen lots of guys use grade 5 without problems but its best to use the higher grade bolts

looks like progess is being made in both equipment and its adjustment to an application and the skill levels of the guy opperating the welder are all increasing to me! thanks for posting clear pictures its an excellent teaching aid!

if the link bars upside down on some link bar designs theres a binding of the lifters to the link bar, in any case one lifter location in its bore should NEVER restrict movement of the other vertically,if it does theres an obvious clearance issue that needs correction..... preloading the lifter preload at only zero to 1/8th turn past clicking at idle will pose no problems, and it tends to increase oil flow up the pushrods to cool valve springs

hope that helps

IVE used BOTH methods in the past, personally I prefer strait alcohol , because I don,t want to throw another un necessary variable (mix percentage of alcohol/water) into the tunning calcs ,but either works fine, just be aware that your spark plug color and heat indications change a great deal, so youll need to compensate while tunning, now IM not an expert in this area so youll need to experiment some, but alcohol has both coolant and high octane factors added into the prevention of detonation so its allowing you to do things that strait gas woun,t allow you to get away with, but don,t shut the engine down untill its burnt off the alcohol and your running on gas ONLY or youll very quickly find out about the corroasive effects of alcohol on aluminum

ID suggest talking to a local shop, I can honestly say THEREs no way to suggest the correct spring rates with out meassuring what youve got, the clearances and discussing what your trying to do, but coil overs an air shocks will normally help.

thats a very low budget,but given an option ID suggest looking for a chevy vortec 350 or a 5.3 LS series truck engine from a late model wreck,you can probably find one for under $500-$700 if you shop carefully, if you can get it with a matching manual trans for under $1400 or so thats a big plus and yeah it can be done, craigs list , salvage yards, insurance adjusters can be good for info and leads ,what you do once youve got one depends on which choice youve made and the price

IVE always dipped the threads on studs that go into the block in this just prior to installation, and used only oil on the upper threads, Ive always installed head gaskets while damp on both sides with this http://www.smallparts.com/Copper-Ounce-Aerosol-Spray-401612/dp/B00030BFKQ or http://www.vhtpaint.com/coppergasketcement.html on the plugs, ID suggest asking your machine shop for advice after careful inspection http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=805&p=1171&hilit=+sealant#p1171

sorry, it should read,"your engine shops correct, .... at some rpms, under some conditions ,the gear drive does, on occasion make the knock sensors crazy, ".