grumpyvette

it sounds like either rust particles in the tank or possibly water in the fuel Id suggest verifying your fuel pressure first then draining the fuel tank, and flushing out the fuel lines and fuel rails , and pouring the contents into a clear glass jar and closely examining the fuel and contents. my sons, driving a 1992 corvette that had similar problems and it turned out to be fine powdered rust from the tank getting pumped up into the injectors, that went thru the filter easily, rust resulting from getting about a 1/2 cup of water from the local gas station in each fill up, water that kept circulating thru the EFI system until it eventually went thru the injectors, I had him drain the tank and replace the filter, add gas drier and a pint of MARVEL MYSTERY OIL and a CAN OF SEAFOAM to his next tank and STOP using CHEAP GAS from BARGAIN GAS STATIONS, once he stopped going to the local citco, thats had a known problem with water for years, and started filling up at the new CHEVRON AND SHELL stations the problem went away, he said the gas cost a few cents more per gallon but the car now runs without intermittent problems ......I asked him if having the car be hard to start, and run like crap was worth the 80-90 cents he saved per tank of gas and it finally seemed to get thru to him that use of decent fuel was his only option

do you have the GASKET between the intake and distributor housing, and a decent clamp? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-1009/?image=large

things have not changes as far as oil pressure at idle in a gen I SBC engine go!

the WHOLE THUMPER LINE of cams is a BAD JOKE in my opinion even comps tech guys won,t suggest them if they are being honest if your asking about making the best possible potential power from any given duration. think about it a bit the whole concept is to change the exhaust duration timing so it idles like a much larger cam, its the lopey sound, not the the volumetric efficiency or power potential that was the main criteria. look impressive? http://www.compcams.com/thumpr/dynoresults.asp heres the specs on that green line cam,made about 375 hp http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=109&sb=2 using comps own dyno charts they show a cam with LESS duration matched with less compression makes 390hp at a lower rpm in an engine with less potential http://www.compcams.com/Technical/DynoSheets/XE284H-10_001.asp

the vic jr has smaller ports/runners and a lower runner entrance angle, to the cylinder head port but yes its VAGUELY similar in design, and it will work ok

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-300-110/ IVE USED THIS INTAKE ON SEVERAL NITROUS ENGINES WITH GOOD RESULTS you can use almost any intake but if youve got the hood clearance a common plenum single plane intake with runners designed for a strait shot at the back of the intake valve, is preferable

blown head gaskets frequently result in over heating or coolant in the oil or water vapor out the exhaust, since you didn,t mention those and only one cylinders involved its more likely a bad ring, damaged piston, worn cam lobe or burnt valve, Id sugest removing the spark plug and squirting some oil into the cylinder and re-testing, if it jumps up noticeably its likely a broken ring or damaged piston, if not try adjusting that cylinders valves, if still no change Id pull it and inspect it. this is very useful http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html

HSR =HOLLEY STEALTH RAM http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NOS-05151NOS/?image=large

BRAAP post is right on target Id also point out that 220F is nothing to get crazy over with a car sitting still, the radiator could obviously use more air flow and a more effective fan and duct work will help, your generally not going to have any problems if that 220F-230F in coolant temps is rarely exceeded, especially if it drops rapidly once your moving the car, before I added a transmission cooler my corvette almost always ran at 195f-210f coolant temps and oil temps in the 210f-235f range under hard driving and easily jumped up a few degrees in traffic. adding an oil cooler also keeps the engine temps top low for too long so I only run the trans cooler now but ID point out that almost all the hotter components in an engine are cooled by OIL FLOW and the OIL after its absorbed most of the heat transfers some of that heat to the coolant as it flows back to the sump, so an OIL COOLER and a 7-8 quart BAFFLED OIL PAN will go a long way to LOWERING the ENGINES total temperatures, the radiator needs to deal with, its not at all unusual to drop engine temperatures by 20 degrees with a 7-8 qt baffled oil pan and an oil cooler added to the engines oil system ID also suggest drilling 8 1/8" holes in the T-STAT flange so any trapped air will circulate and exit the system and you ALWAYS have at least minimal coolant flow http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=296 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=1540 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=149&p=183#p183 OIL COOLER Perma-Cool 12318 $195.95 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRM%2D12318&N=700+115&autoview=sku Perma-Cool 13311 $169.95 OIL AND TRANS FLUID COOLER

my current 383 has a custom EFI intake based on a highly modified HSR with extensively ported runners and a custom plenum and 36 lb injectors, but Ive built lots of similar power range 383 engines with 750-850 HOLLEY carb on EDELBROCK and WEIAND INTAKES in the past, keep in mind the wole engine is designed to maximize a 150hp-200hp shot of NITROUS not built for N/A hp

http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html buy this dvd and these two books JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines http://www.amazon.com/John-Lingenfelter-Modifying-Chevy-Engines/dp/155788238X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1195231760&sr=1-1 SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS http://www.amazon.com/Smokey-Yunicks-Power-Secrets-Yunick/dp/0931472067/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1195231724&sr=1-1

3991492....70......350..........LT1,Camel hump,accessory holes,64cc, straight plug 3991492....70-up................over the counter,Camel hump,64cc, straight or angle plug ALMOST ALL the FUELIE heads CAN support 400 plus flywheel hp IF THE OTHER COMPONENTS USED are well matched, and you do a port & bowl area clean up on the heads,clearance them for a .600 valve lift add the right springs and screw in rocker studs and make sure the displacement and compression ratio, and cam timing are carefully matched to the cars gearing, but your dealing with heads that are about 40 year old technology and in questionable condition, want a combo that easily gets there, build a balanced /correctly clearanced 10.5:1 cpr 383 sbc with this cam http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00351&x=36&y=7 this intake http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-300-110/ full length 1 5/8" tuned headers and a decent 750cfm carb and a good ignition matched to a 4.11:1 rear gear and a manual transmission, and feed it race octane gas its going to be a P.I.T.A. on the street but it will get you 400hp at the fly wheel if you do it correctly "the question usually goes, hey, got a chance to buy fuelie heads for $100- $500, is this a great deal or what?" thirty years ago FUELIE HEADS were the HOT TICKET but your dealing with heads that are thirty year old technology, they will most likey need at least a valve job,new valve guides and new springs and port work, by the time you put that much work and money in those heads youll have more than likely spent more money for worse results than buying the more modern heads that have not had 30 plus years of stress,corrosion,and bad valve jobs http://www.fastnuf.com/Headguide.html HERES AVERAGE FUELIE HEAD FLOW NUMBERS http://www.kendrick-auto.com/462_chevy_head.htm heres two comon performance cylinder heads that are available today measured on the same flow bench http://www.kendrick-auto.com/dart_cs_iron_eagle_215.htm http://www.kendrick-auto.com/brodix_track_i__cs.htm THE CAM AND CYLINDER HEADs are some of the MOST IMPORTANT PARTS ON YOUR ENGINE AS FAR AS DETERMINING YOUR HP/TQ POTENTIAL YES THE FUELIE HEADS ARE BETTER THAN MOST STOCK HEADS, YES THEY CAN BE PORTED BY EXPERTS AND MAKE GOOD HP,BUT BY TODAYS STANDARDS THEY ARE STILL LESS THAN IDEAL. EVEN THE COMON VORTEC TRUCK HEADS CAN EASILY OUT FLOW THEM, http://www.kendrick-auto.com/vortec_cs_gm_head.htm DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR AND IF YOU SPEND MONEY ON ALMOST NO OTHER PARTS BUY GOOD HEADS, LOOK AT THESE ENGINE BUILDS http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html THE ONE THING YOULL FIND OUT IS HIGH HP ENGINES REQUIRE GOOD CYLINDER HEADS AND A MATCHING CAM, I CAN,T THINK OF A MUCH BIGGER OR MORE COMON MISTAKE THAT TRYING TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE WHILE RESTRICTING THE ENGINES POTENTIAL WITH STOCK HEADS a rough FORMULA/gauge to guess the hp POTENTIAL FROM THE CYLINDER HEADS FLOW NUMBERS is (.257 x flow at max cam lift x 8= potential max hp) so if you have 225cfm= about 462 hp if you have 260cfm= 535 hp now your highly unlikely to reach MAX HP POTENTIAL but the better heads will almost ALWAYS SHOW that 15% or better results. on a 400hp engine running fuelie heads that is likely to mean you would have had 460hp with the better heads (15% improvement) look over these heads ALPHABETICAL ORDER AFR BRODIX CANFIELD DART EDELBROCK G.M. PERFORMANCE PRO ACTION TRICKFLOW WORLD PRODUCTS heads they all have better heads http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=240&p=5334&hilit=+numbers#p5334 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=333&p=407#p407

please let us know what you find as it will help others

After making some assumptions based on averages my software makes its wild guess at 420 flywheel hp which translates to 365 rear wheel hp, so obviously theres something not correct, ID start looking at that A/F ratio it looks really rich, it should be closer to 12.9:1 and that cam lift at .453 looks really low,Id verify the cam was degreed in correctly , and the valve train geometry's correct,and ignition timing was correct also

your parts list doesn,t quote detailed info on intake port size compression ratio valve size rocker ratio cam lift or duration which intake was used intake vacuum readings ignition timing curve engine clearances oil pressure oil temp. air temp fuel pressure plugs and plug gaps what headers were used or the back pressure readings at upper rpm levels etc so its basically a guessing game, Ive rarely seen so much generalized info posted with no useful or detailed useful info posted

having build a good many tpi engines I think you'll benefit from a wider 112-114 LSA and limit duration to about 215-218 intake duration example E110030K http://www.pbm-erson.com/store.php?catId=334&parent=333&grandparent=327 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1509 the main reason is that the factory sensors that control the fuel/air ratios don,t work well with reversion pulses in the intake that ,overlap in the cam lobes timing can cause ,increased duration, and tighter lsa angles tends to increase the overlap and cause problems with the stock tuning cpu

GUYS, when your dealing with the datsun 6 cylinder engines Im going to have to say theres far more knowledgeable people on the site than I am. Ive only worked on a couple of those engines doing basic repairs and tune-ups and can,t really give you the in depth info Id like to. If you were local Id suggest swinging bye and IM sure some basic testing on the systems like the fuel supply, ignition, exhaust back pressure, use of a vacuum gauge and a timing light, and a V.O.M. would point to the cause of the problem, ID rather give you no info than bad info, so Id suggest digging out a shop manual or basic references for the type of combo your working with and dropping back to checking basics, because about 90% of the time if you understand the basics you will find the problem source with basic testing

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=93&p=2481&hilit=+casting#p2481 you need to give me more info if the original intakes on the engine 1967-68 3917610 302 1969 3932472 302 heads 1967.. 3890462 302,327 2.02 1.6 1967.. 3917264 302 .........2.02 1.6 1967-69 3917291 302,327 2.02 1.6 1968 .. 3928455 302 .......2.02 1.6 1968 ........3931639 302 ......2.02 1.6 block 3956618....302.....69....4...Z-28 Camaro 3956618....327...68-69...2 3956618....350.....69....2 or 4 or if the heads are off push the piston down to BDC and measure the bore depth 3.00"=302 3.25"=327 3.48"=350

BTW http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/lsx/index.jsp some new ls based engine options watch this video if your thinking about a NEW $4000 dollar range crate engine option LS 327/5.3 ltr

the oil should be ok (check with the manufacturer of the transmission)) the "best" way to check the throw out bearing is to remove it, inspect the clutch while the trans is out and throw the old throw out bearing in the dumpster if its got any indication of wear, it should spin smoothly and QUIETLY in your hands with no slack or grinding or outward appearance of wear theres HUNDREDS of different clutch designs so ID suggest common sense leave some slack in the linkage, if its the Z BAR style and get a shop manual from the car that the clutch linkage came from for a basic over view

http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/S.B.Long_Pump.htm Part Number 214L - ALT. (NEAR BOTTOM OF PAGE) Mounts the alternator low on the driver's side. Bolts to block and water pump for the stability needed when mounting the alternator low with a long water pump. http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=81&t=1871&p=5395#p5395 OR

drop back to the basics, check for vacuum leaks and verify the timing, and ignition advance, and fuel pressure,& flow rates, and oil pressure,read the plugs,verify the exhaust is not restricted,verify the sensors read correctly and the cooling system works, chances are good a basic tune up and a few tests will find the problem source

it seems youve got a mix & match selection of parts the blocks ID casting # seems most likely a 4" bore 327-or -350 cast in flint on july 18 1969 heads from a 327 built between 1962-1967 intake from a 302 z28

sounds like a well worn throw out bearing or slightly out of adjustment clutch linkage