grumpyvette

http://ohiocrank.com/chev_sb_shortb.html http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article085/A-P1.htm

the answer depends on your goals and expectations, a 327 is an excellent starting point if you want a high reving low torque power plant that produces good hp over a wide rpm range, the problem is simple economics, (BTW water in the bore is more likely a cracked head or bad head gasket) to get a 327 to is full potential you'll want to install stronger 7/16" rod bolt connecting rods and forged high compression pistons, a good valve train to deal with the high stress at the upper 5500rpm-7500rpm range the engine is capable of operating in with the correct components, a decent solid lifter cam and decent heads, along with an improved intake and exhaust, etc, you'll want a manual transmission (which you listed) and a rear gear ratio that will not be great for cruising and mileage,(which you have) and you'll need to keep the rpm range up to get good hp,all that's fine in a race car, or a car that's basically a weekend toy. the problem is that by the time you price all the components necessary for a dependable forged/balanced 327,you'll find you could build a 383-396 displacement sbc for approximately the same price, and make more torque over the whole rpm range and more peak hp, lets assume a 327 can make 1.35 hp per cubic inch and a 383 can only make 1.2 hp per cubic inch 327 x 1.35= 441 hp 383 x 1.2= 459 hp and the 383 is far easier on the valve train, the 383 will have noticably more torque over most of the rpm band, will less likely to be a p.i,.t.a. driving in traffic and can use an auto trans far easier, if you chose to do so now keep that in mind, you have choices, either you rebuild with a new block (if it needs replacing)and have basically your current hp levels in a repaired engine or,you'll be needing a better rotating assembly, a killer solid lifter cam, a new block and those heads are restrictive, or need replacing if cracked, and the current intake needs to see time on ebay if you want a list of components Ill look thru my notes and we can build a really neat 327, but you'll really want to get better heads, cam, intake a new block etc, so you run into the fact you that basically you can probably re-use the crank, carb, clutch, oil pan, oil pump,starter,water pump,maybe the damper & flywheel,but youll soon see the 383 as a valid option

you need to step back and think thru the goal and budget and your skill level and tool access, that tag line comes from my old race corvette, a corvette that would destroy tires and suspension at will, it had a 13.7:1 compression ratio roller BBC engine with crower injection, that only ran on race gas,approximately 750hp/600 tq, and tire/suspension technology was far less able to deal with the massive power available. now I can easily give you the engine specs but it was barely street drivable, required a full roll cage, a tubed rear and a narrowed dana 60 differential and 4 link suspension and surely would twist a 700r4 into junk the first time you launched the car ok, lets look at a slightly more realistic goal for a swap , unless your really after a killer race combo http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=312 do these look like something you choose to build, and keep in mind your looking at a minimum of about $27K-$30K plus a donor car to do it close to correctly

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1222 http://www.frontiernet.net/~tmeyer/torque.html Big Chevy Fastener Type Torque Specs Main cap bolt, 396-427 2-bolt 95 ft.-lbs. Main cap bolt, 396-454 4-bolt (inner/outer) 110 ft.-lbs. 3/8 in. connecting rod bolt 50 ft.-lbs. 7/16 in. connecting rod bolt 67-73 ft.-lbs. Cylinder head bolts, long 75 ft.-lbs. Cylinder head bolts, short 65-68 ft.-lbs. Screw-in rocker arm studs 50 ft.-lbs. Intake manifold bolts (cast iron head) 25 ft.-lbs. Oil pump bolt 65 ft.-lbs. Cam sprocket bolts 20 ft.-lbs. Harmonic damper bolt 85 ft.-lbs. Flywheel/Flexplate bolts 60 ft.-lbs. Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs. Bell housing bolts 25 ft.-lbs. Exhaust manifold bolts 20 ft.-lbs. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

on once again we get into a problems that's potential solution will usually require some careful measurement, possibly a trip to a salvage yard, and some fabrication and a welder. you may be amazed at what you could mock up and then build with some careful thought, measurement, and fabrication, going into the solution

DART, in my opinion http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=47 http://www.dartheads.com/products/engine-blocks/chevy-blocks/chevy-small-blocks/ http://gallery.barrymorrison.com/albums/userpics/10001/SHP_Brochure-1v2a.pdf http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DRT-31161211&N=700+115&autoview=sku

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91852 now I could use a saw that will cut aluminum pipe/tubing and plate with up to about 1/2" thick walls,but I need to have the ability to cut angles, now obviously I would never think of using this cheap saw IF it was going to get more than occasional use, and IM sure the blade it comes with is trash,as its designed for wood, so any thoughts or info on selecting the correct blade for cutting ALUMINUM , a better saw with similar capability,would be appreciated gentelmen

thats total B.S. theres up to 35% TOLULENE, already in most currently used auto gasoline http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=613&p=1379&hilit=booster#p1379

if you read thru the thread I posted youll see that the areas near the head bolts are distorted and ring seal will not be ideal, the degree you would (WORRY) about that is in exactly the same percentage of how critical it is to you to maximize the engines ring seal and compression, the engine will run if you just hone the cylinders and install new rings, but it will never get the full potential ring seal or power it would if you have the engine honed with deck torque plates, that will tend to make the bore truely round when its assembled vs slightly hexagonal or pentagonal (depends on the number of head bolts) if you don,t. look thousands of engines are assembled both ways, they all run, but use of a torque plate tends to allow better ring seal and less compression losses

when the rings don,t contact the cylinder walls evenly it would appear your cylinders were honed without use of TORQUE PLATES that allow the head bolts to be torqued to specs before the cylinder walls are honed, use of a torque plate insures the cylinder walls are pulled back into the same lack of distortion that clamping the heads on the block results in,vs the distorted shape they tend to have without that clamp load holding the cylinder walls into the shape and tension the engine actually runs under. read this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1024962 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=588

IM assuming its an ARC welder , not TIG??? and PICTURES sure woulf help here, but because of its age parts availability may be very limited, so even if its flawless youll be limited it what youll get for it.

link should help http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=617

ITS not just the little22 rimfire rifles that tend to group better with slightly lower velocities at times, one of my now passed on hunting partners used a 358 win caliber BLR carbine loaded with 250 grain speer bullets over 44 grains of IMR 4064 for many years to kill ELK, that load clocks 2270fps from his carbine, with lighter and faster bullets he could get 2700fps but the 250 grain loafing along at a 2270 muzzle velocity was only traveling about 1750fps and 12" low at 300 yards but it still flattened ELK, and held 100 yard groups under 1" off the bench rest

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=1730

If its a fuel supply related problem, like you tend to think,if you've got a FUEL PRESSURE GAGE installed on the car with a sensor near the carbs fuel inlet line it would probably indicate the pressure drop or reduced flow, tracking the cause should be fairly easy by simply placing the front wheels up on ramps and allowing the car to idle. cars with return style fuel pressure regulators and electric fuel pumps located lower than the fuel tank and at the rear of the car,are usually less prone to similar problems so if you don,t currently have that it might be to your advantage to swap. you may also have the floats or needle/seat, set incorrectly or just low fuel pressure at the cab. having a fuel pressure gauge correctly hooked up on the dash, so you can see the fuel pressure at the carb inlet ,while driving gives you a big advantage when trouble shooting. and having a return style fuel pressure regulator and return line style system will tend to prevent problems

picking my socks off the floor does that just fine

thank you very much!

anyone have and use one of these? http://www.amazon.com/Teeter-Hang-Ups-EP-550-Inversion/dp/B0017LAORK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hpc&qid=1243098026&sr=8-1 im interested in your impression and results

can one of you gentelmen that are far more skilled than myself , please assist me in producing a very simple 3 view cad drawing,or better yet, show me a link to a simple free cad program, I can use to produce a diagram of basically just a box 2" wide x 4" tall, times 11.375"long with a 0.25" wall thickness and the ends of the tube with dimensions and angle arcs designated???? vaugely similar too,

when doing prototypes on components like motor mounts building a test fit /clearance checker model for plexi-glass and glue can give you a good deal of info alot faster than welding it up out of 3/8" plate cut to fit, theres not alot thats more fustrating than fabricating some component like motor mounts that look great only to find out the headers or fuel pump,suspension etc. won,t clear

http://www.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/86960/2350 http://www.classicperform.com/tech_articles/Engine-Swap/Engine-Swap.htm http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0311_chevrolet_ls1_engine_swap/index.html http://www.tdperformance.com/products/?id=3286 http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/0505sc_guide/index.html http://www.hotrodlane.cc/PDFFILES/lsmeasurementIndex.html

ITs scarry! to see the basic tallent some of you gentelmen have, I doubt that 75% of the PROs can do as nice of work as some of you guys do on your cars , if I wasn,t living on a pension ID hire some of you to work on MY CAR, because I don,t think Id do any better

Ive seen guys who have used a welder for years not do nearly as nice welds CONGRATS!

muzzle brakes work best on very high velocity cartridges where the powder charge is a significant percentage of the ejected mass, leaving the bore, they are also loud, now Ive got a couple heavy caliber rifles with brakes, and they do make a difference, in felt recoil, but on a hunting rifle Ive never seen a huge advantage simply because you seldom take more than one or two shots at game in the field, under conditions where your very likely to be wearing a heavy coat, or padded shooting vest and youll have NO ear protection, youll seldom feel the single shots recoil but your ears may ring for hours

Id love to help here but IVE never tested that intake so I can,t comment on the results, with anything meaningful to add. On that type of engine IVE always prefered single stack per runner injection, for the ability to individually tune each runner length and air/fuel ratio http://www.kinsler.com/page--Manifolds--6.html http://www.kinsler.com/page--GM--17.html or even http://www.hilborninjection.com/ http://www.inglese.com/Products/