grumpyvette

look here it MAY give you some IDEA were they can be sold http://forums.chevytalk.com/forums/Forum64/HTML/005334.html

Peternell thanks for the ego boost Hydra Im running 10.65/1 actual (pistons were said to be 10.5/1) and that works just fine because any detonation in an EFI ,ECU controlled engine is monitored and the ignition timeing is retarded with bad quality fuel, now remember the DYNAMIC COMPRESSION ratio is NOT THE SAME as the STATIC COMPRESSION RATIO. as your cam overlap timeing increases through either tighter LSA EXAMPLE (104-110 degs)rather than the more common in a factory cam(111-116 degs) or increased durations ,lately factory cams tend to run 190-215 degs@.050 so durrations of more than 220@ .050 tend to bleed off some compression at lower rpms. so setting up an engine with a larger duration and tighter LSA will allow you to run a higher STATIC COMPRESSION ratio than a WIDER LSA or a lower durration. also thrown into this mix is the fact that ALUMINUM heads dissapate heat faster than IRON heads allowing about 0.6 additional compression (aluminum over IRON) so to answer your question if your running a cam in the .210-.220 and 112 LSA with aluminum heads 11/1 will be about max, if you go tighter than 112 LSA and and more than 225 in durration you can go slightly higher, but keep in mind that LSA,s of less than 112 or durrations of over 220 drive the STOCK ECU for the engines EFI control nuts with bad sensor readings (out of the parameters they are designed to handle) you must either reprogram the ECU or change to non-stock sensors and yes the longer rods and aluminum heads make the engine much more octane tolerant BTW look at this; http://www.airflowresearch.com/Articles/A3-P1.htm

has anyone ever swapped a 472 or 500 cadillac engine into a (Z)yet? they are not as large or as heavy as a big block chevy and will fit better!

mostly good advice above! sounds lean like an air leak to me too. btw remember that intake can be sucking air fron a leaking gasket on an intake port from the lifter gallery area too, so just because the top side does not suck air does not prove its not sucking air fron the lifter gallery area!also that carb should have the idle bleed needles turned in till they just touch then backed out from about 1.5-->2.5 full turns if your much off this area something else is wrong(ignition timeing,valve adjustments, air leaks,wrong jetting,wrong metering rods or the metering rods are stuck)

check this out good info you can use even on chevy heads http://www.theoldone.com/articles/b16a.head/ http://www.theoldone.com/articles/d16a.head/ http://www.theoldone.com/articles/h22a.head/ http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Circle_Track-Swirl_Power_2.jpg http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Circle_Track-Swirl_Power_3.jpg http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Circle_Track-Swirl_Power_4.jpg http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Circle_Track-Swirl_Power_5.jpg http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Hot_Rod-Talking_Heads_1.jpg http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Hot_Rod-Talking_Heads_2.jpg http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Hot_Rod-Talking_Heads_3.jpg http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Hot_Rod-Talking_Heads_4.jpg http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Hot_Rod-Talking_Heads_5.jpg http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Hot_Rod-Talking_Heads_6.jpg http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Hot_Rod-Talking_Heads_7.jpg

LOOK THIS OVER AND CALL JEFF AT http://www.ondoperformance.com/ FOR HELP IF YOU REALLY WANT THE HEADS TO FLOW. the AFR flow better out of the box but the DART PRO 1s are the prefered head for extensive porting and can be ported to flow bigger numbers by someone that knows how!heres what a professional porting shop says on the DART PRO- 1 heads: http://www.ondoperformance.com/ here is a average sheet on a set of the 230cc versions, they finish up at 238cc's. for a full stage 3 job the price is $975.00, a stage 2 would be $650.00. intake matching is $75.00 this may be a bit better 230cc average: Int Exh 100 ... 84... 100... 55 200 ... 151.. 200... 123 300 ... 208.. 300... 174 400 ... 253.. 400... 209 500 ... 290.. 500... 235 600 ... 316.. 600... 244 700 ... 330.. 700... 254 800 ... 321.. 800... 257 215cc average: Int Exh 100... 85... 100 ... 55 200... 148.. 200 ... 116 300... 201.. 300 ... 168 400... 246.. 400 ... 200 500... 281.. 500 ... 219 600... 296.. 600 ... 231 700... 303.. 700 ... 238 800... 303.. 800 ... 244

HERES SOME LINKS http://forums.chevytalk.com/forums/Forum64/HTML/005501.html http://forums.chevytalk.com/forums/Forum64/HTML/005503.html http://forums.chevytalk.com/forums/Forum64/HTML/005506.html

Cerberus unless you get new springs and rework the valve guides and spring seats theres no way that a stock chevy springs on a stock LT1 head will work with a lift of over about .530 and thats at coil bind! with no clearence at all!CHEVY SAYS THAT YOU CAN,T EVEN USE THE HOT CAM WITH ONLY A .525 LIFT WITHOUT CHANGEING SPRINGS!

you should be ok with that setup because of the windage screen that will help return oil faster to the sump. but 5 qts is minimal and far less than ideal, If you have room under the whole pan area they make full length sump pans that are only 7.5"deep.they are normally available from marine supply stores. but if you can weld you can cut two pans and reweld the sump from one onto the other facing the reverse direction I have done this and had a 7.5" deep pan that held 7.5 qts.and had the advantage of two drain plugs and no kick outs on the sides too. btw if you do this you will need to put in a few one way flow baffles these can easily be done and one way doors for the flow gates are easy to make from light weight door hinges, just cut holes in the baffle walls at the bottom edges and weld the hinges with the piviot bar above the holes such that the bottom free swinging part hangs over the holes on the rear side of the baffle wall and can freely swing to the rear unblocking the holes and allowing free oil flow towards the pump but blocks flow away from the pump pickup when the brakes are applied.BTW I usually cut (5) 3/4" holes spaced across the bottom edge of the baffle walls blocked by the swinging hinge door and you should make the wall as high as possiable with out touching the windage screen and it should have a top edge with a horizontal mounted sheet metal roof about 3" wide both forward and backwards and full pan width to prevent oil from flowing over the top of the baffle wall. or these people will make you what ever you want http://www.stefs.com/6.htm http://www.stefs.com/17.htm but the marine pan should work fine!it holds 6 qts and is only 6.75" deep!

this is a good source of QUALITY magnets to epoxy into the sump of your oilpan to remove harmfull metalic dust and the work MUCH BETTER THAN THOSE LAME MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUGS http://www.wondermagnet.com/dev/magnet2.html adding magnets removes a large amount of the metalic dust that comes from parts wearing(rings,rockers,cylinder walls ETC.)that would otherwise wind up embeded in your bearing surfaces or working like sand in your engine on your moveing parts

the pan is available left dipstick #15120 $59.99 or right dipstick #15121 $69.99 and yes the pan has a slight(3") kickout to the right side but the baffles all direct the oilflow to the rear of the pan for the pump pickup and the baffle doors only allow oil to move toward the pickup so what you have is a pan/pump layout that has a stock corvette configuration with an extra wide sump with far superior oil control. the only down side I see is that some starters may not fit but almost any of the smaller high torque ones will! and that if your headers are closer than 3.125" to the passenger/right side of the factory pan within 10.5" from the rear of the pan it may not work in your application.but otherwise its a much better pan than the corvette pan.BTW I forgot to mention that I just saw a artical that said if you use nitrious that the slight extra oil voluum from a high voluum pump spraying around in the sump greatly helps cool the pistons from the bottom side in some cases by over 100 degs and if a few extra shallow grooves in the rod mateing areas and a small hole in the web area of the main bearings pointed at each piston from the main bearings is drilled to direct oil at the piston bases even greater cooling can be accomplished

you are not stuck with that 5/8" pickup they make the same pickups in 3/4", one of these people have one that will work with your pan. http://www.performancemarket.com/oilpan.htm or you can get a pan simular to the pan I just bought for my vette from MIDWEST MOTORSPORTS #mwm15120 --7.25" deep 7 quart available in right or left hand dipstick for $59-$69 (great deal for what you get and they can get you the correct pump and pickup too, www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com or with very little work you can get many available 3/4" pickups to work.BTW the part #1010 for the 3/4" pickup matching that pan is mwm ($19.99) so you can have a good matched setup with your big pump for under $100 and thats a road racing pan with 7 qt capacity and its only 7.25" deep for great ground clearence (its got 1/4" more ground clearence than most stock vette pans)

I think there are some good points and some miss- information here lets go through a few points (1)oil is the main cooling fluid (in) your engine and good CONTROLLED FLOW over the bearings and friction surfaces such as pistons,rings,cam lobes, lifters,cylinder walls,rocker arms,valve springs, and distributor gear is what does the main cooling by absorbing heat and carrying it away from the heated surfaces. (2)pressure has almost nothing to do with the pump you use ,its the resistance to oil flow that builds BACK PRESSURE in your engine mostly due to bearing clearances and the resistance of the pressure return spring in your oil pump! (3)the larger the voluum of CONTROLLED oil flow through your engine the better the internal cooling and bearing lubracation. (4)controlling your oil flow requires haveing a pump that provides large amounts of oil at LOW rpms, most pumps have enough pressure and voluum at the mid range rpms and almost every pump (with the addition of a high pressure spring and a large oilpan) will work at high rpms. (5)oil flow raises in relation to rpm and since its a non-compressable fluid, your main problem is not pressure but keeping a pressureized flow of oil on all surfaces, and the main problem is keeping more than enough oil in the sump around the oil pump pickup not in the valve covers,lifter gallery, and being whipped around by the rotateing assembly. (6)a high voluum oil pump with a high pressure spring(LIKE THE DYNAGEAR #M99HV) with the addition of a good seperator type windage screen like the MILODON #32250 (SBC) AND A GOOD OILPAN like the KEVKO 8-QT WITH TRAP DOOR OIL CONTROL GATES AND CRANKSHAFT SCRAPPER (THE WINDAGE SCREEN AND PAN CAUSE THE SPINNING CRANK TO ACT LIKE AN IMPELLER AND PUMP OIL BACK INTO THE SUMP)WITH A LITTLE SMOOTHING AND CONTOURING OF THE OIL RETURN HOLES IN THE BLOCK AND A HIGH FLOW OILFILTER AND AUX OIL COOLER WILL WORK WONDERS.AND ANOTHER THING TO BE VERY CAREFULL ABOUT IS TO MAKE SURE THAT THE OIL PUMP PICKUP IS 3/8"-1/2" FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE OILPAN, ANY CLOSER AND YOU SERIOUSLY RESTRICT OIL FLOW INTO THE PICKUP,(I NORMALLY BRAZE A 1/2"NUT TO BOTH SIDES OF THE BOTTOM OF THE INTAKE PORTS ON THE PICKUP TO MAKE SURE THE DISTANCE IS MAINTAINED)btw synthetic oil works better than dyno oil and has a wider temp> range AND YOUR MORE THAN FREE TO DISAGREE BUT AFTER BUILDING DOZENS OF STOCK CAR AND DRAG RACING ENGINES I HAVE NEVER LOST ONE DUE TO BEARING TROUBLES,SCUFFED PISTONS ETC. http://www.2timer.com/abmmotor/assembl.htm http://www.dorianyeager.com/oilfilterstudy1.html http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

the carb size is not your problem!! from the limited info you gave I can tell you you have other problems than the carb size (valve adjustments? ignition timeing? very low fuel pressure feeding the carb? traction? transmission sliping? extremely restrictive exhaust system? not enough ignition spark/missing? vacuum leak? cam indexed or installed a few degs. off? timeing wrong? carb adjusted WAAAYYY lean or rich? carb secondary venturies not opening?) but not the carb size! a 600cfm carb versus a 750 cfm carb is only going to slow you down maybe 1/3 of a second tops , you can run in the 11s with a 600cfm carb on a 400 sbc (true a 750 will make it easier but the carb size is not a huge drawback!) LOOK ELSEWARE FOR YOUR PROBLEM

omar by the time you pay for those 383 pistons and also pay for a machine shop to surface the decks(which can weaken the pistons ) you will spend more $$ and have less strength than doing the job correctly in the first place!!

K B pistons makes a set of matching pistons and they are no expensive 1-775-887-2971 #kb154 (8.5-10.4 cpr depending on head voluum)thats a 327 piston for a 6" rod or KB 155 (9.4-11.8)

Omar your quench distance MUST be close to .040 thousands if you go more or less by more than .005 thousnds you are more prone to detonation or piston to head contact.btw http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=598180475 get these rods there is no way you will beat the price after you add machineing to any other rods

BLKMGK no picture yet from DOUG. pparaska the difference between 345 ft lbs and 320 ft lbs is about 7.5% I doubt you will notice the difference in top gear at all but you will notice the loss of hp over the acceleration curve if you go with the dual plane intake

first what v-8 is it? THE GOOD CADDYS WERE FROM 72-76 (472-500CID)IN THE 90S CADDY HAD SOME GOOD AND SOME BAD ENGINES, NOW iM NOT SURE OF WHAT THAT CAR HAS BUT IF ITS A NORTHSTAR 32 VALVE V-8 ITS A SUPER ENGINE!THIS IS WHAT YOU WANT IN AN OLDER CADDY; http://cad500parts.com/ THIS IS WHERE YOU GET STUFF FOR THE OLDER ENGINES; http://www.500cid.com/indexold.html THIS IS WHERE FOR THE NEWER STUFF. http://www.chrfab.com/ http://www.vipmedia.com/northstar/caddy.html http://www.findarticles.com/cf_dls/m0BUW/3_40/59460837/p1/article.jhtml http://members.tripod.com/~grannys/enginescadillac.html http://www.cadillac.com/news/cad_2000seville.htm AND BTW A NEW NORTHSTAR V-8 IS A 32 VAVLE ENGINE THAT COMES WITH FUEL INJECTION FROM THE SALVAGE YARD!

You left out some important info(carb size so I guessed at 750 cfm) but as that engine is you should have close to 392hp@6000rpm/385 ft lbs @5000rpm changeing to a victor jr intake with the 750 carb and 1.75 full length headers jumps you too 425hp/415 ft lbs (closed exhaust)450hp@6400rpm/425@5000rpm ft lbs (open headers)

bubafett 195 AFR would boost that to 451hp/412 ft lbs with your cam and with those heads your present cam is just about perfect!!

bubafett computer estimates you have 412hp@ 6100rpm and 395 ft lbs @5000rpm btw thats well matched setup but the cam in this case is just a tiny bit off perfect(according to the cumputer) , the CRANE #114681 shows a slight boost to 430 hp and 420 ft lbs Peternell Im not useing DD-2000 IM useing a custom program thats more closely related to ENGINE ANALYZER but both programs are available from JEGS DD-2000-$50 E A _$129

this info may help someone: http://www.airflowresearch.com/ch195lt.html http://www.motorsporttech.com/motors/lt1dyno.html http://www.hpsalvage.com/[/url] http://u2.netgate.net/~jshapiro/heads.htm

Tim240Z there is not much wrong with that build other that the cam (224/224 deg.450/.460 lift) is too mild with those heads and you need good exhaust flow to pull high hp numbers, that size cam is meant for good torque and mid range power)going to a victor jr intake(YOU CAN GET GOOD HIGH RPM HP WITH A DUAL PLANE INTAKE BUT ITS EASYIER WITH THE VICTOR JR) and CRANE #114681 solid lifter or a comp cams xe284h hydrolic will help a bunch if you don,t want to get a expensive roller cam.(either one will get you close to 420 hp) (the crane will rpm better the comp is less work to adjust)but the intake change is necessary to use the rpm potential of either cam.look at it this way a dual plane rpm intake and a 224 deg dur. cam are at their most effective rpm range from 3000rpm-5000rpm changeing to a single plane victor jr and a 244 deg cam moves the effective rpm range 1500rpm higher to 4500rpm-6500rpm now hp= torque x rpm/5252 so if you have 375 ft lbs at 4500rpm that equals 321 hp but moveing the torque curve up 1000 rpm to 5500rpm=392 hp so you may see that if your getting more torque from the better breathing cam from both the greater lift and durration, plus moveing the torque curve up in the rpm range you improve the total so lets say that cam gives you 375ft lbs at 6000rpm (which the computer say they both will) thats about 428 hp (CLOSER TO YOUR GOAL???)of course a good roller cam will beat any flat tappet cam,, check this ;and notice that even with a roller cam because the durration was less that220 degs the power stayed under 350hp!and notice on the other site what better flowing heads AND cams with 230degs plus dur. can do!!(COMBO #84 IS CLOSE TO YOURS) http://www.idavette.net/hib/camcon.htm http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos.html

read carefully .(( If detonation forces you to use an ignition/timing retard system, you will of course see less of a gain because backing off several degrees of timing will greatly reduce an engine's power output. At higher boost levels, the heat generated by compressing air will produce diminishing returns as the boost is increased, although the use of intercooling or racing fuel can avoid this scenario of diminishing returns. Assuming the use of intercooling to run higher boost levels while maintaining reliability, )) what they are really telling you is that getting to 900hp will require intercooling and methonol alcohol or tolulene for fuel like I said!!and to pack enough fuel air mix into the cylinders to reach 900hp you will need to increase the combustion chamber voluum by dropping the compression ratio to about 7/1.