grumpyvette

im pulling about 470hp/520tq, I could easily get more but im not trying for max hp im trying for a good ,powerfull , dependable ,street combo. my 3500lb vette can run 11.8s or so but the wheel spin is the limiting factor slicks would make it faster but again street not strip is my goal,and Im running a 2.87 rear gear so that i can run 175mph with a 1/2 mile head start which is what I like to do, in your much lighter Z-car very low 11s are going to be easy with a 383sbc roller engine.

not in any order, 500 cadillaic engines dana 60 rear axles 9" ford rear ends big block chevy engines small block chevy engines crysler 440 and 392 engines ford 4-speed transmissions gm 4-speed trans

heres what I use in alot of engines I build ad as of today some of them have been in use for a few years and thousands of 1/4 mile passes,with no trouble, 1-383FHPS-LR 4340 Forged Crank, 350 Main, 3.750" Stroke, 6.000" Forged H Beam Rods and 4.030" Bore SRP Forged Pistons (THIS KIT WILL INTERNAL BALANCE WITH NO MALLORY METAL) http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/smblkchevyrotating.html now I used the corrillo 6" rods but the scat forged crank(internally ballanced) with a fluid damper and the TRICKFLOW #TFS-31504110 10/1 CPR PISTONS AND TOTAL SEAL RINGS IN MY LAST PERSONAL 383 btw IM RUNNING A .575/.595 LIFT 230/236 DURRATION CAM CRANE # 119661 (1.6 ROLLER ROCKERS)

look this over http://www.engr.rutgers.edu/~llongo/4K.html http://www.engr.rutgers.edu/~llongo/8K.html http://www.engr.rutgers.edu/~llongo/12K.html http://www.vrand.com/ex1.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm http://www.vips.co.uk/demos/mech/conrod.htm http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/NewsInfo/NewsRels/NR110299E.html http://www.hayabusazone.com/rods.html http://www.findarticles.com/cf_0/m0BUW/5_40/61204109/print.jhtml NOTICE that the connecting rods high stress areas are areas the rod is under TENSION NOT COMPRESSION , most people fail to realize rods tend to fail on the exhaust stroke where there is less opposeing force slowing the piston as it nears tdc, rods commonly fail from being streached not compressed, and the points the tend to fail at are the rod bolts, or just under the small end holding the piston pin and the large end where the rod changes size to go around the crank journal, now it mostly depends on the QUALITY of materials used, the care used in manufactureing and overall design but (H) type rods normally place more steel in these stressed areas for the total weight of the rod than (I) type rods so thats why you see those type rods in the higher stressed engines but like I said a QUALITY rod of EITHER DESIGN works fine, and its the rod BOLTS that normally fail first,or the area just under the piston pin from stress cracks when you pull an engine apart and find the rod broken in most cases a rod bolt failed first and as the crank started slapping the loose rod against the block it bent and broke the rod, its not normal to find a big end of the rod still on the crank with good bearings and bolts yet broken in the center area , look again at the stress analysis color photos ans see what IM talking about!

Mikelly get a set of the (h)beam/7/16" bolt cap screw eagle or prowler 4340 forged steel rods and you will be WAY beter off than useing the stock chevy rods HP5700 4340 H Beam 5.7 $329.00 HP6000 4340 H Beam 6 $329.00 (prowler) CRS5700 EAGLE RACING 4340 STEEL H BEAM 5.7$389.00 CRS6000 EAGLE RACING 4340 STEEL H BEAM 6 $389.00 AND READ THIS http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/uhs89734.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm99828.htm http://www.stahlheaders.com/Lit_Rod%20Length.htm SHORT ANSWER< LONGER RODS ARE BETTER! and if your going to change pistons get the 6" rods and matching pistons.

that will depend on if there custom made and /or the model and tube size but 3-4" per side is about average or 6-8" total extra width but custom headers might get that down some and dont forget that may not be the widest point, as the head ports point down at an angle, your best bet is to buy a kit with header flanges and build your own set. http://www.headersbyed.com/pontiac.htm http://www.headersbyed.com/hdrkits.htm http://www.ssheaders.com/header.htm http://www.centuryperformance.com/sanderson/headertech.htm http://www.drgas.com/ http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/ES/ESH/EngSwap.html#Nissan http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/ES/ESH/Adjustbl.html#Pontiac

that 500hp and 600ft lbs you are looking for are at or even above the limits that a non-supercharged, non-nitrious small block is capable of ECONOMICALLY GETTING TOO AND MAINTAINING LONG TERM! my advise would be to build a big block 540 rat motor(FOR WHICH GETTING THOSE NUMBERS ARE EASY) or use a supercharger on the small block engine.

heres a quick and reasonably accurate way to judge heads as to the airflow necessary to get to a certain hp level, .257 x flow x #cylinders= MAX PROBABLE HP so looking at those heads you have lets say they flow 260cfm at your valve lift just for some numbers to plug in! .257 x 260 x 8=534 potential max hp now they are not saying the heads get you that hp ,they are saying that those heads block you from getting more than that hp level unless ported to flow more fuel/air mix and thats a flow number with the carb and intake atached so you better figure on looseing at least 10% minimum from the head flow figures, so that means you need heads that flow 275-310 cfm to get solidly above the 525hp level in a small block chevy with an average intake/ carb combo!

here , you will need to make your own files but heres the data, http://www.dartheads.com/sbpro200.htm http://www.dartheads.com/sbpro215.htm http://www.dartheads.com/sbpro227.htm http://www.dartheads.com/sbpro230.htm

with those cylinder heads those cams come close to the max you can get, its not the cam choice holding your hp numbers back below 500 its the CYLINDER HEADS, heres the heads you need to kick the hp above 500hp, http://www.dartheads.com/sbpro227.htm

you only learn this stuff by screwing up and haveing to fix the screw up! so don,t feel like your alone in haveing done it, but from now on you will mark the caps BEFORE REMOVEING THEM !

the type intake and carb depends somewhat on the cars weight and gearing but the cams you have chosen are made for use with higher rear gear ratios (4.11 and higher)and single plane intakes like the vic jr you have chosen,btw with the rockers used as I suggested the 383 will be close to 470hp/450 tq and the 355 will be close to 445hp/440 tq

in most cases extra lift over .600 or so does not add much if any hp on a small block because the amount of extra flow in the port above .600 lift is minimal,my first thought would be to use them on the 355 to gain flow on both lobes but after playing with several sbcs lately with different rocker arm ratios I would say try the 1.6 rockers on both engines intake valves only and the 1.5 rockers on the exhaust valves , Im betting that will gain you the best results. the intake lobes on most sbc engines have less duration and can use the extra flow that lift can give, while the exhaust has a longer durration and is easier to get the flow anyway because its under pressure.

here this may help, http://www.prestage.com/carmath/ddheads.asp btw if you hit the icon that looks like a valve and arrows you can load your own port flow data,and if you use CRANE,LUNATI,OR EDELBROCK DATA for .050 lift the cam data works too, use seat to seat timeing for COMP CAMS DATA THOUGH

the last time I installed a 327 chevy in anything it was a studebaker hawk and that was back at least 20 years ago! SO mr ljohnson I guess your and old geezzer like me, well come on out of the oxygen tent more often and help me tell the young guys about 392 hemis and 455 buicks in some of the strait axle 63 falcons, hillman minx,s and such, what we did not have in technology we made up for in welding, cutting and WHAT DO YOU MEAN IT WONT FIT! I GOT A CUTTING TORCH! mentality

call TCI and ask but I have used thier stuff before with no trouble (good quality too) but ask BEFORE BUYING, http://www.tciauto.com/specialty/adapter_kits.htm TCI Automotive 151 Industrial Drive Ashland, MS 38603 Telephone: 662-224-8972 Fax line: 662-224-8255 Additional contact information

you guys are not going to beleve this but when I posted that the board only printed the first line ,and then the board was down for awhile, so heres the whole post! at that power level(450 hp) and the wave-loc bolts those rods should be ok! but I long ago started useing only EAGLE,SCAT,LUNATI,CALLIES,CROWER rods with cap screw type rod bolts (7/16") on any sbs that was going to have over 450hp, heres what I use, http://www.flatlanderracing.com/crhbeamscat.html (yes SCAT probably are imported but they are a good rod for the money) http://www.flatlanderracing.com/calliesrods.html (thats what I just used in my last 383 build) http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/IEC/IECCR/Billet.html most of my friends use these! http://www.cdpautomachine.com/ecatalog/eaglerods.html http://www.crower.com/pdf/145.pdf and many guys at the tracks run these with no problems

at that power level(450 hp) and the wave-loc bolts those rods should be ok LOOK BELOW FOR THE REST OF THE POST

those rods SHOULD BE ok but if you don,t already own them they would not be my first pick, but if you make sure to use A.R.P. wave-loc rod bolts they should be fine, its not the rods themselves that fail most of the time its the cheap chevy production rod bolts that stretch just enough to let the oil pressure fail and the rod bearings spin which results in a rod through the side of the block, a cracked head and a broken cam and crankshaft when the rod comes off the crank and gets pounded at 7000 times a minute by 400 ft lbs of force from the crank untill something jams solid and the engine locks up!USEING CHEAP ROD BOLTS(the most highly stressed part in your engine) TO SAVE $100 THAT CAN COST YOU AN ENGINE IS FALSE ECONOMY look here for good bolts, http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/products/products.html BTW a good high voluum oil pump,milodon windage screen and baffled oil pan also help prevent trouble, heres a good deal, get these peoples catalog ,it free and they have lots of good stuff at low prices, true they deal mostly with the stock car racers but why not take advantage of the parts you need at good prices MWMS Claimer Pan Combo Includes: Claimer Pan (left hand dipstick only)(right hand dipstick models available for alittle more money High Volume Oil Pump High Volume Oil Pump Pick Up $79.99 http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/

here this may help http://www.team.net/sol/tech/engine.html ENGINE DIMENSIONS all lengths are in inches, weights are in pounds C.I.D. WIDTH LENGTH HEIGHT WEIGHT CHEV V6 200 26 24 27 400 lbs V8 262,265 283,302 305,307 327,350 400 26W 28L 27H 575lbs 348,409 28 1/2 34 1/2 32 685lbs 396,402 427,454 28 30 1/2 29 685lbs FORD V8 221,260 289,302 351W 24W 29L 27 1/2H 460lbs 232,292 312 28W 29L 29H 625lbs 302 Boss 24W 29L 29H 500lbs 351C 24 1/2W 29L 28 1/2H 550lbs 332,352 390,406 410,427 27W 32L 29H 625lbs 427 sohc 32W 34L 29H 680lbs 429,460 27W 30L 29H 720lbs 429 Boss 28W 34L 30H 635lbs MOPAR V8 273,318 340,360 24W 29L 27H 550lbs 361,383 340,413 426,440 29 1/2W 30L 29H 670lbs 331,354 392 29W 31L 31H 765lbs 426 29W 32L 32H 690lbs BUICK V6 198,225 231 26W 23L 28 1/2H 400lbs 231 Turbo 30W 23L 30H 430lbs 215 Aluminum 26W 28L 27H 320lbs 350 28 1/2W 30 1/2L 28 1/2H 450lbs 401,425 Nailhead 28W 33 1/2L 29H 650lbs 400,430 455 28W 30L 30H 600lbs CADILLAC V8 472,500 28 30 1/2 28 600lbs OLDS V6 198,225 231 26W 23L 28 1/2H 400lbs V8 215 Aluminum 26W 28L 27H 320lbs 260,330 350,403 26W 28L 27 1/2H 560lbs 303,394 30W 32L 29H 700lbs 400,425 456 26 1/2W 31L 29H 620lbs PONTIAC V8 215 Aluminum 26 28 27 320lbs 301 25W 32L 30H 475lbs 326,350 389,400 428,455 25 1/2W 32L 30H 640lbs --HEIGHT IS FROM AIR CLEANER TO PAN-- --LENGTH INCLUDES WATER PUMP-- --WIDTH INCLUDES HEADS, VALVE COVERS,MANIFOLDS-- --------------------

Congrats!! BTW make sure the cars running well by the time the wife needs to get to the hospital in a hurry to deliver!

don,t panic ,your not the first or the last person to do that! first thing you should know is that you only have the front 4 caps to worry about (the rear main cap only goes on one way) now get a magnifiying glass and a good strong light,and a couple cans of spray carb cleaner now first off the side of the cap with the notch for the bearing tabs matches the same side in the block with the bearing tab notches, so just place a cap on the first bearing position and lightly tap it in place , spray it down on area the bearings fit with carb cleaner and with a strong light and a magnifiying glass inspect the fine scratches left when they honed it to fit, by carefully looking at how the fine scratches line up you can determine if that cap matches, if it does not move it to the next journal and try again, after you determine where the caps go , use an inside micrometer to make sure everything is correct, after your sure.... stamp the caps with an arrow pointing forward and a number so it will not happen again!

$200 for an old rusted crank that needs to be turned,polished and reballanced if it passes a magnaflux test for no cracks is out rite robbery!!!!!!!and at this point your not even possitive its forged not cast!!!! by the time you get it ground,polished,magnafluxed,ballanced, ETC youll have another $250-$350 in it , do yourself a big favor and buy a 3.75" stroke forged NEW CRANK and build a 383 which will leave any 327 useing the same parts like heads and cam in the dust!! look here, http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/stdknifesmblkchevy.html or better yet a complete matched rotateing assembly like this, 1-383FHPS-LR 4340 Forged Crank, 350 Main, 3.750" Stroke, 6.000" Forged H Beam Rods and 4.030" Bore SRP Forged Pistons (THIS KIT WILL INTERNAL BALANCE WITH NO MALLORY METAL) here; http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/smblkchevyrotating.html

there are so many unknowns here that any real hp/tq numbers are going to depend on what you pick but with an average set of 1 3/4" headers, that holley intake and 750 carb and a CRANE cams solid roller cam (that set of heads is capable of 520-560 hp and getting (a little more) is not that hard! like I said talk to crane cams!

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- here read this HERES THE CAUSES http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html http://www.motortecmag.com/archives/2001/jun/JUN01-01/JUN010101.html http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htm http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mcrob/rt-fuel2.html http://www.rolexhaust.com/Technical/Analysis/Detonation.htm http://www.charles-city.k12.ia.us/high/academics/auto/dap.html HERES THE CURE http://home.kscable.com/ssutton/miata/engine/toluene.html http://www.vtr.org/maintain/gasoline-octane.html http://home.earthlink.net/~galiagante/house-booster.html