grumpyvette

great deal!!!!!!!but do yourself a huge favor and call CRANE CAMS 1-386-258-6174 for your cam advise as those heads flow enough that the cam choice is critical to your engines success and DONT USE A DUAL PLANE INTAKE it will choke those heads to death, use something like a http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/AMS/AMSM/300-105.html and at least a 750 cfm carb and 1 3/4" headers minimum, putting a dual plane intake and a set of shorty headers with a 600 cfm carb will cost you at least 70 hp!

Quicker ON DD_2000 you can input custom flow data by going to the fourth ICON at the top of the page (looks like a valve with arrows) most of the programs allow you to input port flow at different lift figures, dd-2000 is the easiest to use and ENGINE ANALYZER PRO is the most precice but the hardest to input data into. here are some flow files for DD-2000 (more people have that because of cost) http://www.prestage.com/carmath/ddheads.asp you must down load each head seperately on most computer programs.BTW you can make your own custom port flow files even on DD-2000 but doing things like finding your true DYNAMIC COMPRESSION RATIO with the cam and rod length in YOUR ENGINE are only available from the more expensive programs like ENGINE ANALYZER PRO

DD -2000 is the cheapest and easiest to use cost about $50 ENGINE ANALYSER is a little harder to use but gives you more options (about$125) ENGINE ANALYSER PRO is much harder to use but has way more options and ways to set up and test an engine (about $470) RAPID LINES PERFORMANCE CALCULATOR PRO is the most complete but costs about $650 I have the first three and have played with the last one, DD-2000 gives you limited info but I think the most for your money, ENGINE ANALYZER PRO gives you a good bunch of options and answers lots more questions but like I said is harder to use! BTW as long as you stay with the more common engine combos the dd-2000 program is normally within 3% of the ENGINE ANALYZER PRO which has many more factors taken into account! as long as you realize that they only give a good guess and are by no means perfect but only a good guide youll do fine! BTW G.I.G.O. APPLYS (Garbage info In Garbage info Out)

here guys this may help, http://www.4speeds.com/muncie2.htm http://www.peachstatechevelles.com/muncieid.html http://www.dalesplace.com/htm/information/rpm_calculator.htm http://www.cloudmaster.com/cloudmaster/speed.html http://www.interlog.com/~muncie/history.html http://www.yearone.com/live/Id_info/trans_id.htm http://www.geocities.com/z28esser/muncie.html http://www.nastyz28.com/transid.html http://www.geocities.com/z28esser/ratio.html

here are a few of the better deals in crate motors http://www.recycler.com/com/chevy_only/page2.htm#383 http://www.amerspeed.com/engine_prices.htm http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=catalog_start&catid=120

lets be logical here the object is to look so BAD A$$ that no one will even DARE to race you, go to a large truck/trailer supplier and get several of those (WARNING TRANSPORTING EXPLOSIVES STAY 1000 FEET BACK) stickers and a HAZZARDOUS WASTE STICKER that says multiple 5 gallon cans of nitro glycerin on board, and a big red blinking sign for your roof with scrolling lighted messages that say, ! don,t allow temps above 50 degs (f) NO! vibrations! NO! radios that ought to get you out of having to prove your faster!

Michael stick with the big block, when your finished at least you will have something very special, lets face it sbc z-cars are far more common! now if you just want to drive it put a nearly stock rebuild on that 454 and drop it in, you will be able to drive it while you save up for the additional parts you realy want and even a stock bbc 454 will run well in a z-car!

"As long as your talking BIG block you might as well go BIG. Any more a 540 is concidered average displacement,.... NOW, thats a BIG BLOCK " WRONG,WRONG! check out the model 1200 http://www.torque-eng.com/v_12s/modelsf.htm ADD quad turbos and stuff that in your Z-CAR and no ones will catch you on a strait run!! BTW look at the installation drawing for dimensions of the motor mounts or if you must stay with a bbc SAR 712 CU. IN. PONTIAC 1400 HP NA 4.840 BORE SPACING 4.625” BORE X 5.300” STROKE SAR/Donovan aluminum block featuring raised deck and +.400” raised cam, Pro-Series 5.300” 4340 internally balanced crankshaft, custom BME aluminum rods, SAR/BME pistons with taper-wall wrist pins, fully-ported SAR/Brodix Pontiac 14.5 degree aluminum head assemblies featuring Manley titanium valves, Jesel belt drive, SAR/T&D rocker system with one piece rocker bars, Crane roller camshaft and roller lifters, ATI balancer, SAR 2x4 sheetmetal intake manifold with linkage, two 1250 CFM dominators, Moroso four stage dry sump oiling system with SAR heater, MSD crank trigger ignition system, “Sonny’s” aluminum sheetmetal valve covers, Meziere electric water pump, CSI pro-series starter and SAR vacuum pump kit. $42,500.00 OPTIONS: *SAR 4.900 bore spacing $1,000.00 *SAR installed NOS fogger (+250 HP) $1,500.00 *SAR installed NOS 2 stage system (+450 HP) $2,200.00 ****706 cu. in. for Pro-Mod application 1325 HP +600 HP 2-stage NOS = 1925 HP 4.600 bore x 5.300 stroke $46,000.00

the guys have a good point here, for you to benefit from the power any engine ,sbc or bbc has in a Z-car which has over 500 hp its necessary to install a roll cage and a sub frame to chanel the power effectively to the rear wheels, otherwise much of the power is used twisting your frame and wasting energy torqueing your suspension , now personally a bbc engine can easily be built to far out power a small block simply because better flowing heads, larger bores and larger displacements with stronger parts are available!but they also have a point that a 500hp sbc is easier to build and easier to install!

I ran that combo through my computer progran and ASSUMEING you have full lenght headers you did not mention in your spec sheet that engine should put out close to 465hp and 468 ft lbs (VERY WELL MATCHED COMBO!)MTW swapping to a victory type intake like the #2925 shows a boost in top end hp to 490hp/498 tq

if your running 10.4 to one compression and useing a gear drive(good choice) that still leaves the cam could be indexed wrong (unlikely)and the cam you installed is a good one its just that it does not match a dual plane intake and restricted exhaust, and as mentioned check your ignition timeing curve ,if its off much that can hhurt performance also , you should be running someware close to 35-38 degrees total advance and it should all be in by about 3000rpm!

after reading all the other input here it seems that you should check your cam is deg in correctly first because like pparaska said that will kill your engine power faster than almost anything else! and if your useing one of those 3 positition roller timeing gear sets they are well known for haveing the timeing marks stamped several degs off true anyway, add the possiablity of lineing up two marks that should not be used together and you have an engine that seriously down on power, now since its a roller cam (I think thats what you said) and they are expensive, lets try to get it to run correctly, first deg in the cam,read this, http://64.90.9.168/cranecams/pdf/803.pdf http://64.90.9.168/cranecams/pdf/215e.pdf http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech-c.htm now that cam requires a good single plane intake like a super victor #2925 (my choice) or the #2975 victor jr (the more common choice)to breath well, basically try to get what you have now running correctly and only swap to a milder cam if you find you have way to little low end torque, Id love to be able to help you personally and find and show you whats wrong but your 800 miles from here!

zfan ok the most likely problem (looking at your list of parts)is that the cam you picked is for use with a high compression ratio and a single plane intake like a vic JR and full flowing headers now you can do one of two things, you can get higher compression pistons (about 11 to one) and a single plane intake and full length headers or you can pull that cam and install a crane# 114142 216/228 durration .454/.480 lift on a 112 LSA that is much closer to the specs that will run in your car.

heres some good info! http://www.angelfire.com/tx5/randysresume/Headguide.html http://www.mortec.com/ http://www.chevymania.com/ http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sbch.html http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/heads1.html http://www.tracyvette.com/headssb.html

http://forums.chevytalk.com/forums/Forum64/HTML/006365.html

biohzrd just about covered everything there was to say on the #441 heads, they are by todays standards not the best choice but like biohzrd said with extensive porting they can be made to work!

build a 377,383 or 406 sbc, you are guaranteed to kick a$$ on Z-28s if you use the correct parts! the main thing is to match the heads, cam and intake to the rpm range you want the power in! and to build a solid bottom end that has an excellent oiling system for long life! look at that bunch of posts on how to build a 383( want to build a 383 ? )(in the same coluum) to get some ideas but if you spend 1/3- 1/2 of your budget on killer heads and the rest on good dependable parts for the lower end to build a strong well oiled rotateing assembly you will wind up with a nice engine keep in mind that an engine is an air pump and great breathing heads and matching cam are the main keys to good power! if you want Ill list some parts combos but keep in mind power costs money (ain,t life a bitch at times) and if your looking for big hp numbers it will cost money, but Z-cars are light enough that a 450 hp/450 ft lbs engine will make almost everything else on the road look sick includeing the new vettes!

with the correct rods you can put a 4" stroke crank but the block mods are extensive and the power you get for your effort is not worth the trouble in my opinion, the longgest stroke crank that is a reasonable fit is the 3.875" and that requires a special profile rod and a small base circle cam just like the 4" stroke crank but the block grinding envolved is much less, now if your interested there are special blocks available with wide pan rails, extra tall deck heights, and higher cam placement centerlines that will (with tons of money)allow you to build 454-462 cid engines that appear to be small block engine! look here, 24502495 - Aluminum V8 Block for Big Displacement Engines This tall deck (9.525") aluminum block can be bored to (4.160") and stroke to (4.125" with minor modification and 4.250" stroke with major modifications). The deck height is 9.525" with a 1.125" deck surface that can be machined as low as 9.000". The bores start at 4.119" and can be bored to 4.160" with a 2.65" (400-type) main bearing size and the camshaft is raised 0.391" from production location. Pan rails are spread 0.400" per side for clearance of connecting rods. The main caps are four-bolt design of 8620 steel with the three inner middle caps having ball-end outer studs that are angled outward at 20º to anchor the caps to the strongest part of the block. The four-bolt front and rear caps have straight outer bolts for oil pan clearance. The main cap hardware includes premium bolts, centerless ground studs and 12-point nuts. The rear main uses a 400-type two-piece rear seal (Fel-Pro P/N 2909). This block uses a priority main oiling system and is a dry sump design with no provisions for an internal oil pump. The oil filter pad is eliminated so the starter can be mounted on either side and the fuel pump boss is also removed. Technical Notes: Special oil pan, camshaft, and timing chain are required for this block. Use cam bearing kit P/N 12370843.

read this http://www.chevymania.com/383.htm http://www.findarticles.com/cf_0/m1185/n8_v32/21148174/p1/article.jhtml?term=chevy+%2Bcombustion+%2Bchamber+design http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/afr.html (look at combo#71) http://mysite.directlink.net/ldodd/EngineBuild.htm http://www.carcraft.com/editorial/article.jsp?id=4503 http://www.strokermotor.com/ http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/smblkchevyrotating.html http://www.airflowresearch.com/chevy_dyno.htm http://www.airflowresearch.com/Articles/A13-P1.htm

biohzrd I sent an E-mail lets see what happens I in no way am critical in fact I wish I could write that well, but just wanted to point out what I saw as an oversite (LORD knows I do that all the time!!)

biohzrd thanks for the reply, now I read most if not all of the site info I post and that site has mostly good very helpful info from an obviously knowledgeably guy , (but Id like to privately ask him about one thing he mentioned)

look here http://www.hogansracingmanifolds.com/ http://www.wilsonmanifolds.com/smform2.html either company custom makes those type intakes all the time (btw adding a pressure/flow ballance tube between the two feed plenums in your design will help hp output

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- read this http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/overviewp2.asp http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm59910.htm http://www.users.bigpond.com/ergoff/splug6.htm http://www.autolite.com/framer.cgi?page=http://www.autolite.com/products/racing.htm http://www.eric-gorr.com/techarticles/sparkplugs.html http://www.atlanticjetsports.com/_techtalk/00000005.htm http://www.racinghelp.com/read_spark_plugs.html http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark.htm http://www.tsrsoftware.com/read-plugs.htm http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html

just for your info, on a naturally asperated engine the port flow max,s out at a valve lift of about 1/3 of the intake valves dia. so having a port the has a cross sectional area the is much larger than the valves max flow area only serves to slow the intake port air velocity, thats why huge port sizes tend to loose low and mid range torque but because supercharged engines do not use or need high port velocitys dependant on the negitive pressures of the piston moveing down into the cylinder and the draw caused by the rapidly departing exhaust pulse in the header tube from the previous fired cylinder the larger size ports help to funnel more fuel air mix into the cylinder with less restriction/back pressure. now this also means that because the cylinder filling is accomplished by mechanically forceing the air into the cylinders the exhaust valve must close earlier to trap that charge before its pushed out the exhaust and the exhaust must open earlier to give more time for that extra cylinder voluum to blow down so as not to fight the intake charge when the intake valve opens.this change in valve timeing also applies to the intake valve in that because the charge need not wait for the cylinder to start drawing the intake valve can open earlier and close later to max the cylinder filling but to avoid pushing excess fuel out the exhaust the LSA (lobe center angles)are spread wider (112-116degs) on blower cams as opposed to (105-110)on most non-blower cams or put another way dedicated supercharged engines need huge ports and valves wide LSA cam timeing and relatively mild valve lift and durration numbers. BTW cams designed for use with nitrious normally work well with supercharged engines, heres more info, http://www.blowerdriveservice.com/tech.htm http://www.procharger.com/ http://www.paxtonauto.com/ http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/ http://www.turbotechnologyinc.com/

read this http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/overviewp2.asp http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm59910.htm http://www.users.bigpond.com/ergoff/splug6.htm http://www.autolite.com/framer.....ge=http http://www.eric-gorr.com/techarticles/sparkplugs.html http://www.atlanticjetsports.com/_techtalk/00000005.htm http://www.racinghelp.com/read_spark_plugs.html http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark.htm http://www.tsrsoftware.com/read-plugs.htm http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html