grumpyvette

here this may help http://www.turbofast.com.au/javacalc.html http://www.m-p-c.com/engtech.htm http://www.turbofast.com.au/turbomap.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/Drag.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/TFcompB.html http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm http://www.turbofast.com.au/flowmaps.html http://home.kscable.com/ssutton/miata/engine/toluene.html http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/octanebooster.html http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepag....ist.htm http://www.racepartsstore.com/pistons.html http://members.home.net/rogue15/ heres some helpful info; http://www.racetep.com/turbo.html http://www.skulte.com/turbo.html p-c.com/engtech.htm http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/enginepage.html http://www.vectorbd.com/peugeot/turbo.html http://www.turbonation.com/

just to make things clearer when I figured that 163 top speed Im useing that 400hp figure he gave me as flywheel hp and figureing he has close to 17%-18% driveline loss.(400x.83=332hp or 400 x .82=328 hp) so 74_5.0L_Z numbers match my computers idea of reality very closely...... (Using the above numbers, and the formula P=F*V, I get 336 RWHP to go 160 mph, and 390 RWHP to go 170 mph.) so his estimate of 336 rear wheel hp is close to my computers 332-328 hp which gives you the 163 max mph

here buy this http://www.dallasexportsales.com/383sb.html add a EDELBROCK VICTOR JR intake and headers and a 700-750 cfm carb and kick a$$ on 90% of the cars out there! or if your the kind of guy that like a challange and has friends to help and spare money, go just a little crazy--> (roll cage great idea) http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/ChevyBigBlockV8s/Ultimate_502.html either option will kick a$$ on a stock or mildly modifyed LT1 now if you want to get even with all those rear tires that you have hated all your life and seldom get those nice front tires dirty buy and install this http://www.theengineshop.com/engine4.shtml but you will NEED A ROLL CAGE,DANA 60 rear and a 4-link suspension ETC with that!http://www.theengineshop.com/engine4.shtml

just one more piece of info , did you ever notice that the ford guys have a nice high rpm 302(5 liter ) and the first thing they do when they want big hp numbers is........come on think about it...........they STROKE IT TO 347 CID to get more torque and displacement if you want to build a kick ass engine the things that are most important are GREAT FLOWING HEADS,large displacement, quality parts that are ALL MATCHED TO THE RPM RANGE YOUR GOING TO RUN THE ENGINE IN! heres some good starting parts,and info http://www.strokermotor.com/ http://www.racepartsstore.com/rotating.html http://www.airflowresearch.com/chevy_dyno.htm http://www.canfieldheads.com/sbc.html http://www.trickflow.com/ http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/headcombos.html AND NOTICE THAT ALL THE BIG HP NUMBERS ARE FROM THE LARGER DISPLACEMENT ENGINES LIKE 383-406 cid

first you should be aware that there are two different front seal thicknesses one is about 1/4" thick and one is about 3/8" thick so if you use the thin seal on a oilpan designed to use the thick seal it will leak most of the time, next , you should know a VERY COMMON MISTAKE is not installing the bolt that goes in from the front of the block where the fuel pump mounts,(BTW if you use to long of a bolt here it locks the fuel pump push rod and your fuel pump stops working) this will only leak noticeable amounts of oil when your rpms get over about 3000 plus and it at first apears the fuel pump is leaking oil. next thing is that useing studs in the block to locate the pan gasket and pan and nuts on the studs to lock the pan in place works far better than useing bolts, and yes the 4 corner bolts are bigger than the other bolts. next be aware that the better gaskets are now ONE PIECE PLASTIC GASKETS with the side rails and end gaskets molded in one piece. look here,under oilpan gaskets http://www.gochampion.com/gasktfp.htm http://www.scegaskets.com/results_IE4.asp CHEVROLET 265-400ci V8 SMALL BLOCK Accu-Seal Pro Oil Pan one piece Molded Rubber 1986 to Present (with 1 pc rear main) 211092 fel-pro also makes them in both right and left hand dip stick models just ask any parts store that carries fel-pro gaskets (they cost about $30 but are reuseable and well worth the money)

just for fun I ran your 400 hp z-car through the computer and the computer thinks 163mph is where a 400hp z-car will top out! now granted its only a computer but that sounds like a reasonable guess to me also

After looking over many past posts on this board something struck me as odd! there are (3) basic ways to make your car faster (1)add more EFFECTIVELY USEABLE HP (2)reduce the cars total weight moved by that hp (3)reduce aerodynamic drag now a reduction in weight of about 100lbs is equal to about 13 hp gained in engine output in a car thats in the 3200lb-3500lb range and sometimes its cheaper and easier to lose 100 lbs than get more hp(especially the first 200lbs or so) and I see very few posts on good ways to reduce weight (yes I know the driver could stand to lose 50lbs in my case) but Im working on it honest, now a reduction of 200lbs =about 26hp or a reduction in your ET of about 2 tenths(in the 12-14 second range) and an increase in mph of about 1.7 mph.TRY IT OUT HERE: http://www.prestage.com/carmath/calc_HP_fromETandWeight.asp so lets hear some good ideas guys! btw a reduction in the drag coefficient will have little effect untill about 80 mph but the numbers mean a great deal more as your speed exceeds 120mph and greater and by 175 mph those number easily can provide a winning edge to a car and is one of the reasons some of the late model cars can run as fast as they do!look here, Aerodynamic drag force may be defined as follows: Fd = (1/2) Cd r A V^2 (1) where Fd = aerodynamic drag force Cd = coefficient of drag r = density of air A = frontal area of vehicle, into the direction of motion V = velocity of vehicle, into the direction of motion This equation may be found in any fluid mechanics text. In fact, the equation is quickly recognizable as the first integral of a basic momentum equation, which makes sense, since the aerodynamic force is created by the momentum change of the air as the vehicle moves it out of the way. This equation shows that aerodynamic drag force increases with the square of the vehicle velocity. One way to state this is to say that a doubling of the vehicle velocity increases the drag force four times. Or, a 41.4% increase in vehicle speed doubles the drag force. Of course, astute mathematicians will immediately note that this makes sense, as the square root of two is 1.414. Horsepower Aerodynamic drag force is one thing; the power required to overcome it is something entirely different. If drag force goes up quickly as vehicle velocity builds, then the power to overcome it grows even more ferociously. Specifically, it increases with the cube of the vehicle’s velocity. Power is widely defined as follows: P = F x V (2) where P = power, F = force and V = velocity The force in question here is aerodynamic drag force, of Fd. Substituting Fd into (2) yields: P = Fd x V (3) where P = power, Fd = aerodynamic drag force, V = velocity Substituting (1) into (3) yields: P = ((1/2) Cd r A V^2 ) * V or (1/2) Cd r A V^3 (4) This shows, mathematically, that the power required to overcome aerodynamic drag force really does increase with the cube of the vehicle’s velocity. Every doubling of the vehicle velocity requires an eightfold increase in horsepower. Or, a doubling of horsepower only results in a velocity increase of 26%. As before, an astute mathematician will recognize that 1.259 is the cubic root of two. your cars Top Speed So how does this affect your top speed? Or more importantly, what are the real world guidelines which result from the math shown above? A Corvette is a slippery and powerful vehicle. It has a small frontal area, a low coefficient of drag, and a throbbing engine eager to dump power to the pavement. It can hurtle forward at high speeds, but some wish to go faster still. They make power mods to their car, maybe getting another 100 HP or more, and then are terribly disappointed when they see a single digit gain in top speed. Is this realistic? Is the problem with their modification, or with their expectation? It is the latter. Here are some sample numbers. They are not pertinent to your car necessarily, but they are typical. In general, 60 MPH requires about 15 HP. Table 1 shows the power rise that must accompany an increase in speed. Speed (MPH) Change (%) Horsepower Change 60.00 -- 15 -- 75.60 25.99% 30 100% 95.24 25.99% 60 100% 120.00 25.99% 120 100% 151.19 25.99% 240 100% 190.49 25.99% 480 100% Table 1 - Speed/Horsepower Correlation for a Typical Passenger Car SO IF THE QUESTION IS CAN YOU DRIVE 199MPH,?? MAYBE IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH HP AND A LOW ENOUGH DRAG AND FRONTAL AREA, your car can remain stable at those speeds and you can drive but you will be as crazy as I am to try it without a great roll cage, tires ratted for over 200mph and 13" disk brakes minimum on all four wheels and carbon brake pads

Break-in and Installation Instructions PROTECT THE INVESTMENT YOU HAVE IN YOUR ENGINE. TAKE THE TIME TO READ AND FOLLOW THESE RECOMMENDATIONS: BREAK IN PROCEDURE 1.) Drive normally but not a continuous high speeds for the first 500 miles. Occasional quick bursts of speed followed by quick deceleration during this period, is beneficial. AVOID LUGGING!!! TRIPS AND TOWING are not recommended until after 1000 miles. NOTE: Applying loads to the engine for short periods of time causes increased ring pressure against cylinder walls and helps to seat the rings. This is especially important because you are "BREAKING-IN" the engine with heavy duty oils. The rapid deceleration increases vacuum and gives extra lubrication to the piston and other assemblies. 2.) IMPORTANT! AFTER 500 TO A MAXIMUM OF 1000 MILES OF SERVICE, change oil and filter and readjust the valves except, hydraulic. We also require that valve adjustments be done again after a total of 6000 miles. We require a maximum of 3000 miles between oil changes and factory recommendation on valve adjustments thereafter. NOTE: Add oil at 1/2 quart intervals on small capacity engines. OIL AND WATER LEVELS ARE A DRIVER OR OWNER MAINTENANCE RESPONSIBILITY, THEY MUST BE KEPT FULL. We realize that this means extra effort on your part, but it assures long and satisfactory engine performance. 3.) A heavy duty detergent oil is required. Use a good quality brand oil, Some Manufacturers require 5/30, others recommend 10/40 for 20 degrees Fahrenheit to 100 degrees Fahrenheit and use 20/50w for higher temperatures and heavy duty use. NOTE: In past years, it has been common practice to use non-detergent and straight weight oil during the "BREAK-IN" period because it was felt that the rings would seat quicker without the film strength additives. More recently, there has been a trend to high speed and high temperature engines, cam lobe and tappet loads also have increased to a point where it is important to use heavy duty oils which contain a EP (high pressure) additive right from the start. Rings will seat properly when moderate loads are applied as noted above in section one. 4.) Keep your engine in tune. Tune-up specifications should always be to the manufacturers recommended specifications. 5.) PLEASE! If you experience any trouble or even suspect a problem please contact us IMMEDIATELY! It is easier and cheaper to fix a little problem than a big one. IMPORTANT ITEMS TO LOOK FOR WHEN INSTALLING A REPLACEMENT ENGINE TO AVOID EARLY ENGINE FAILURE 1.) Determine why old engine failed. Check catalytic converter or computer controlled parts, check engine warning light codes, radiator, water pump, etc. Do not install replacement engine with defective components, this could cause premature failure. 2.) Compare rebuilt engine with old engine as to crankshaft flange, pilot hole and bearing, oil pan, timing cover, engine mounting provisions and cylinder head mounting holes. 3.) Prime the oil pump in any acceptable Industry Standard Method! This is very important. 4.) All related parts not furnished by us should be thoroughly cleaned. 5.) If original engine has blown and scattered pieces, such as piston particles, you Must thoroughly inspect intake manifold for foreign material to avoid destroying the new engine. 6.) Make sure that dipstick tube and dipstick are of proper length to register required amount of oil. 7.) Check motor mounts for oil soak and parting of rubber from metal. 8.) Radiator should be flow tested and thoroughly cleaned if necessary. 9.) Check radiator cap for application and operation. 10.) Replace thermostat to avoid possible failure. 11.) All hoses, radiator, heater, and by pass should be replaced if necessary. 12.) A heavy duty detergent oil is required. Use a good quality brand oil, Some Manufacturers require 5/30, others recommend 10/40 for 20 degrees Fahrenheit to 100 degrees Fahrenheit and use 20/50w for higher temperatures and heavy duty use. 13.) Always replace oil filter cartridge and flush any cooler lines. And replace oil cooler if contaminated. 14.) Oil pressure and temperature sending units may need to be replaced because they have a tendency to leak oil and register improper after a reinstall. 15.) Always install new spark plugs of proper heat range and check to make sure the spark plug wires are in good condition. 16.) Check distributor, advance controls and distributor cap for cracks. 17.) Water pump should be checked for signs of leaking. 18.) Clutch fan should be checked for proper operation. 19.) Fan belts should be checked for cracks and other defects. 20.) Check fuel pump for oil leak at pivot pin and also for fuel leaks. 21.) Check heat riser valve for proper operation. 22.) Replace paper air filter or clean oil type. 23.) Check smog components and computer sensors. Replace defective or old parts. 24.) VERY IMPORTANT!!! Make sure radiator is full of coolant (at least 50% water and 50% antifreeze) and Engine Block is filled full before attempting to start engine. CAUTION: Air Locks can ruin a new engine. 25.) When filling radiator make sure it is filled to proper capacity and that there are no air locks, as this can cause cracking of cylinder block and heads. 26.) Start engine, check oil pressure, adjust ignition timing to manufacturers specifications and adjust carburetor after engine has warmed up fully. Also, at this time be sure to check for any water or oil leaks. 27.) Take the car for a road test. After road testing the vehicle recheck installation, oil and water levels, look for any leaks, recheck timing and adjust carburetor if necessary. Please refer to "BREAK IN PROCEDURE" sheet for further information. See Warranty Addendum #8 NOTE: After at least 1 hour running time and engine has cooled, retorque head and adjust valves to manufacturers specifications. On Required engines if you are not sure if this is required on your engine ASK! and this Reasons and causes for cam failure Cam failure is rarely caused by the cam itself. The only things we can control during manufacture pertaining to cam lobe wear, are lobe taper lobe hardness and surface finish. Of all the damaged cams we have checked over the years, more than 99.99 percent have been manufactured correctly. Some people have the misconception that it is common for a cast iron flat tappet cam to occasionally have a soft lobe. We have yet to see a cast iron flat tappet cam that had a soft lobe. When the cast core is made at the casting foundry, all the lobes are flame hardened. That process hardens all the lobes to a depth below the barrel of the core. That depth of hardness allows the finish cam grinder to finish grind the cam lobes with a Rockwell hardness above 50Rc. The generally accepted hardness on a finished cast cam should be between 48Rc to 58Rc. All of the finished cams that we have checked are always above 50Rc hardness on the lobes. Many outside factors, or a combination of factors, can cause cam failures. We will list some of the factors we have determined that may cause camshaft failure. 1. Lobe wear A) Incorrect break-in lubricant. Use only the Moly Paste, Part Number 99002-1 that is included with the cam. This Moly Paste must be applied to every cam lobe surface, and to the bottom of every lifter face of all flat tappet cams. Roller tappet cams only require engine oil to be applied to the lifters and cam. Also, apply the Moly Paste to the distributor gears on the cam and distributor for all camshafts. For extra protection, an anti-wear additive should be added, such as Crane Super Lube, Part Number 99003-1. NOTE: Do not use synthetic oil during the break-in period. It is not recommended to use any type of oil restrictors to the lifter galley, or use windage trays, baffles,or plug any oil return holes in the valley. Oil has a two-fold purpose, not only to lubricate, but to draw the heat away from whatever it comes in contact with. The cam needs oil splash from the crankcase, and oil run-back from the top of the engine to help draw the heat away. Without this oil flow, all the heat generated at the cam is transferred to the lifter, which can contribute to it's early demise. Correct break-in procedure. After the correct break-in lubricant is applied to the cam and lifters, fill the crankcase with fresh non-synthetic oil. Prime the oil system with a priming tool and an electric drill so that all oil passages and the oil filter are full of oil. Pre-set the ignition timing and prime the fuel system. Fill the cooling system. Start the engine. The engine should start quickly and run between 1500 and 3000 rpm. If the engine will not start, don't continue to crank for long periods, as that is very detrimental to the life of the cam. Check for the cause and correct. The engine should quickly start and be run between 1500 to 3000 rpm. Vary the rpm up and down in this rpm range during the first 15 to 20 minutes, (do not run the engine at a steady rpm). During this break-in time, verify that the pushrods are rotating, as this will show that the lifters are also rotating. If the lifters don't rotate, the cam lobe and lifter will fail. Sometimes you may need to help spin the pushrod to start the rotation process during this break-in procedure. (a) Note: Lifter rotation is created by a taper ground on the cam lobe and the convex shape of the face of the flat tappet lifter. Also in some cases, the lobe is slightly offset from the center of the lifter bore in the block. If the linear spacing of the lifter bores in the block is not to the correct factory specifications, or the angle of the lifter bore is not 90 degrees to the centerline of the cam, the lifter may not rotate. Even if the engine you’re rebuilding had 100,000 miles on it and the cam you removed had no badly worn lobes, this still doesn't mean that your block is made correctly. It just means that the break in procedure caused everything to work correctly. Be careful to watch the pushrods during break in to verify lifter rotation. Don't assume everything will work correctly the second time. ( Note: Always use new lifters on a new flat tappet cam. If you are removing a good used flat tappet cam and lifters and are planning to use them again in the same (or another) engine, you must keep the lifters in order as to what lobe of the cam they were on. The lifter breaks-in to the specific lobe it is mated with and it can't be changed. If the used lifters get mixed up, you should discard them and install a new set of lifters and break the cam in again as you would on a new cam and lifters. You can use new lifters on a good used cam, but never try to use used lifters on a new cam. © Note: Roller tappet cams don’t require any break-in. You can use roller lifters over again on a new cam if they are in good condition. There will be, of course, no lifter or pushrod rotation with the use of a roller tappet cam. C) Spring pressure Normal recommended spring seat pressure for most mild street-type flat tappet cams is between 85 to 105 lbs. More radical street and race applications may use valve spring seat pressure between 105 to 130 lbs. For street hydraulic roller cams, seat pressure should range from 105 to 140 lb. Spring seat pressure for mechanical street roller cams should not exceed 150 lb. Race roller cams with high lift and spring pressure are not recommended for street use, because of a lack of oil splash onto the cam at low speed running to help cool the cam and lubricate the lifters. This high spring pressure causes the heat created at the cam to be transferred to the roller wheel, resulting in its early failure. Any springs that may be used must be assembled to the manufacturer’s recommended height. Never install springs without verifying the correct assembled height and pressures. Note: Increased spring pressure from a spring change and/or increased valve lift can hinder lifter rotation during cam break-in. We have found that decreasing spring pressure during the break-in period will be a great help. This can be accomplished by using a shorter ratio rocker arm to lower the valve lift; and/ or removing the inner spring, during the cam break-in time, if dual springs are being used. D) Mechanical interference. There are many factors that can cause mechanical interference. (1) Spring coil bind: This is when all of the coils of the spring (outside, inside or flat damper) contact each other before the full lift of the valve. We recommend that the spring you are using be capable of traveling at least .060" more than the valve lift of the cam from its assembled height. (2) Retainer to seal/ valve guide boss interference. You need at least .060" clearance between the bottom of the retainer and the seal or the top of the valve guide when the valve is at full lift. (3) Valve to piston interference: this occurs when a change in cam specs. (i.e.; lift, duration or centerline) is enough to cause this mechanical interference. Also: increased valve size, surfacing the block and/or cylinder head may cause this problem. If you have any doubt, piston to valve clearance should be checked. Minimum recommended clearance: .080" intake and .100" exhaust. (4) Rocker arm slot to stud interference: As you increase valve lift, the rocker arm swings farther on its axis. Therefore the slot in the bottom of the rocker arm may run out of travel, and the end of the slot will contact the stud and stop the movement of the rocker arm. The slot in the rocker arm must be able to travel at least .060" more than the full lift of the valve. Some engine families, like small block Chevrolet, have stamped steel rocker arms available in long and extra long slot versions for this purpose. 2) Distributor gear wear. The main cause for distributor gear wear is the use of high volume or high-pressure oil pumps. We don’t recommend the use of these types of oil pumps. If you do run these types of oil pumps, you can expect short life of the cam and distributor gears, especially for low speed running, in street type applications. If you must run these types of oil pumps, you can increase the life of the gears by adding more oil flow over the gear area to help cool off the point of contact. Note: distributors that have end play adjustment (up and down movement of distributor shaft and gear), Maintain a maximum of .010" end play, to help prevent premature wear. 3) Camshaft end play. Some engines have a thrust plate to control the forward and backward movement of the cam. The recommended end play on these types of engines is between .003" to .008". Many factors may cause this end play to be changed. When installing a new cam, timing gears, or thrust plates, be sure to verify end play after the cam bolts are torqued to factory specs. If the end play is excessive, it will cause the cam to move back in the block, causing the side of the lobe to contact an adjacent lifter. 4) Broken dowel pins or keys. The dowel pin or Woodruff key does not drive the cam; the torque of the timing gear bolt, or bolts, against the front of the cam drives the cam. Some reasons for the dowel pin or key failing are: Bolts not being torqued to correct specs; Incorrect bolts of a lower grade being used; Stretching and losing torque; Not using the correct hardened washer that may distort and cause torque of the bolt to change; LocTite not being used; Or some interference with the cam and lifters or connecting rods causing the cam to stop rotation. 5) Broken cam A broken cam is usually caused by the cam being hit by a connecting rod, or other rotating parts of the engine coming loose and hitting the cam. When this happens, the cam will usually break in more than two-pieces. Sometimes the cam will break in two pieces after a short time of use because of a crack or fracture in the cam due to rough handling during shipping, or some time before installation. If a cam becomes cracked or fractured due to rough handling, it will generally not be straight. Most people will not have any means of checking cam straightness. As a general rule, if you can install the cam in the engine and install the timing gear, the cam should turn freely with just your finger pressure. There should not be any drag or resistance in turning the cam. This free turning of the cam is assuming that if new cam bearings were installed, they were the correct parts and they were installed correctly. Note: When removing a used cam that may be worn, you may have difficulty turning or removing it. This may not mean that the cam is cracked or fractured. The heat generated at the cam during the failure of the cam lobe, and/or lifter, will distort the cam and cause it not to be straight any more. KNOW THIS http://www.exxon.com/exxon_lubes/tigerbytes/documents/brochures/bro0020.htm#synthetic http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html http://www.fernblatt.com/longhurst/engineoil_bible.html BUY AND USE THIS http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=7881&prmenbr=76

look here http://www.automotiverebuilder.com/ar/ar99928.htm http://www.kb-silvolite.com/speclear.htm#CHART http://forums.chevytalk.com/forums/Forum64/HTML/005908.html http://www.carcraft.com/editorial/article.jsp?viewtype=text&id=1004 http://www.kb-silvolite.com/speclear.htm http://www.racingsecrets.com/article_racing-10.html https://web9.tdl.com/jags/MountingKits_Order.html http://www.hpsalvage.com/ http://www.performancess.com/ http://home.tir.com/~steveher/lt4.html http://www.andrew.cmu.edu/~mjr2/cars/supernatural/ http://u2.netgate.net/~jshapiro/heads.htm http://www.thunderracing.com/

if you want to build a rear engine independent suspension trans axle equiped kit car but are smart enough to not want to pay $4000 plus for a PORSHE trans axle look at the trans axle that they used in the front wheel drive caddys and oldsmobles, the th-425, here look at this, http://www.wsu.edu/~426hemi/ http://www.kennedyeng.com/ http://www.kennedyeng.com/other.htm http://www.drivetrain.com/transautogmapp.html http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofdif.htm http://www.renegadehybrids.com/main.htm

here heres the stock flow numbers for the 215cc heads and the 230cc heads are not much differant in flow in stock form .lift...intake.....exhaust .200....128..........100 .300....182..........136 .400....224..........162 .500....253..........173 .600....256..........176 .700....265..........178 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- the AFR flow better out of the box but the DART PRO 1s are the prefered head for extensive porting and can be ported to flow bigger numbers by someone that knows how!heres what a professional porting shop says on the DART PRO- 1 heads: http://www.ondoperformance.com/ here is a average sheet on a set of the 230cc versions, they finish up at 238cc's. for a full stage 3 job the price is $975.00, a stage 2 would be $650.00. intake matching is $75.00 this may be a bit better 230cc average: Int Exh 100 ... 84... 100... 55 200 ... 151.. 200... 123 300 ... 208.. 300... 174 400 ... 253.. 400... 209 500 ... 290.. 500... 235 600 ... 316.. 600... 244 700 ... 330.. 700... 254 800 ... 321.. 800... 257 215cc average: Int Exh 100... 85... 100 ... 55 200... 148.. 200 ... 116 300... 201.. 300 ... 168 400... 246.. 400 ... 200 500... 281.. 500 ... 219 600... 296.. 600 ... 231 700... 303.. 700 ... 238 800... 303.. 800 ... 244

to build a 383 you need to have a 4.030" bore,so if your bore is only 4", yes you will need to bore the block, the rear gear you need will partly depend on your tire size and the rpm range you want to run the engine at and the top speed that your trying to reach but in general a 3.36-3.73 rear gear makes for a good match to the torque and rpm range of the 383 engine for a street combo! the heads,cam,intake, and compression ratio will also determine the best gearing.if you want a good engine combo , think it through fully before buying ANY parts but the most important will be the cylinder heads,intake type,compression ratio and cam as they more than any other parts will determine the hp and torque curve your engine will have, the rest of the parts will determine how long it runs well!

both types of transmissions will work just fine but the pontiac 400-455 engines(one of my favorites)are built for mid range torque and work best in the 2000rpm-6000rpm range and an automatic trans will help keep you in that range and help protect you from missed shifts (something pontiac engines hate) BTW pontiac engines NEED a good intake and head/port work to breath correctly and cams that are in the 235-245 or larger dur range work well only with headers.

first, this is a very common combo. and you can use either size rod but the 6.385 rod is the prefered length. the 3.76" stroke big block engines(366,396,402,427) are INTERNALLY ballanced and the 4" stroke engines(454,502) is EXTERNALLY ballanced. NO a 454 cannot be safely bored to 4.44"-4.5" like the 502 engines can , the max dia. on most 454 engines is 4.31-4.34 and that is risky on most blocks (some early 454 blocks would bore to 4.375" but most newer blocks wont get to this size without sleeveing the block) yes I have built this size engine. but overall the best idea is to take a 4.5" bore block , add a 4.25" stroke and build a 540 cid engine. while its true the 478"(4.5" x 3.76") will produce more power per cubic inch the 540" engine will produce far more total power!! btw heres some good deals on allready built engines, http://www.gochampion.com/bbcengine.htm http://www.theengineshop.com/engine6.shtml http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/ChevyBigBlockV8s/Ultimate_502.html or if your useing a 4.310 bore useing the same 4.25 stroke crank will build you a 496 engine.look here http://www.skunk.net/boatengines-496.htm

heres some engine ideas, heres a random asortment from my library http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/ http://mysite.directlink.net/ldodd/EngineBuild.htm http://www.findarticles.com/cf_0/m0BUW/2_41/68322476/p1/article.jhtml?term=cadillac+engine+swap http://www.off-road.com/chevy/tech/454engine/ http://members.home.net/ctandc/350.htm http://www.skunk.net/boatengines-496.htm http://www.carcraft.com/editorial/article.jsp?id=868

yes jwelch that cam is a good choice for a street driven engine with vortec heads and no clearance problems are normally involved, and depending on other options of course will give about 340hp and 390 ft lbs makeing it one of the better heavy car cams,in fact its one of the hottest cams that seems to run without causeing trouble in most cars and one of the few that are almost a NO_BRAINER choice almost GUARANTEED to run well!

good info well put Scottie-GNZ here this will allow you to play around and see the changes http://www.smokemup.com/utilities/calc/fuel_injector.cfm http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm#WORKSHEET

I think you guys are looking at this wrong! I used to hang out with a few of the guys that built those trans am 302 engines for the nostalgia trans am races they run , well to make a long story short there was some (non-standard non-spec engines) and not one team that I ever heard about chose to build a cheater 327 engine! they ALL BUILT 355 cid(4.030 x 3.5") or 377cid (4.155 x 3.5") or 352cid (4.155x 3.25") engines when winning not the rules mattered! so just as info the 327 was not the first choice of knowledgeable racers when winning was the important thing!

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- here read all this deep inside GMPD, study began of a third iteration of the Small-Block V8. Expectedly, someone coined the name "Gen III" and it stuck. The project had SAE net power and torque goals of 1 horsepower and 1 pound/foot of torque per cubic inch displacement. There was a weight reduction goal of about 60 lb. When asked about durability, reliability, drivability and pleasability objectives; GMPD said only that intent in those areas was "best in class." While that phrase was maybe a bit ambiguous, because Corvette has few direct competitors and none with big V8s, my road test of a C5 pilot car (VIN 00063) in March of 1997 showed the new engine exceeds expectations for drivability and meets them for pleasability. I suspect that time will show the engine's reliability/durability equaling and possibly exceeding that of the Gen II Small-Block. 305,307 327,350 400 =....575lbs so 575-60=515 lbs for the LS1 heres some more LS1 info some of you guys may need this info; http://www.finishlineperf.com/sheetmetalintake.htm or hogan makes this; http://wsphotofews.excite.com/001/PZ/1x/5y/0f13452.jpg and this is for the LT1 guys http://www.c-zone.net/markm/hogans/ http://www.hogansracingmanifolds.c http://www.torquecentral.com/techdocs/GM/ls1/LS1_Tech_article.htm http://www.c5registry.com/Documents/ls6/INDEX.HTM http://www.corvettec5.com/store/?page=shop/browse&category_id=1c914424d2569bea34 39fbcca9123a27 http://www.corvettec5.com/store/?page=shop/dyno http://www.usatoday.com/money/columns/healey/0032.htm http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/ChevySmallBlockV8s/LS1_pictures.html http://www.tradezone.com/vette/engine.html http://www.ls1performance.com/ http://www.c5-corvette.com/LS1_Technical.htm http://members.tripod.com/racerjoe/68_vette/68_retrofit.html http://www.hpsalvage.com/Gbody.html

heres some more info engine Weight References Comments pounds Alfasud flat-4 240 (2) Alfa Romeo SOHC V6 375 (2) AMC V8 540 (one ref showed 600) AMC 6 500 Audi 2.0 L4 335 (2) Audi 5 364 (2) (non-turbo) Audi 80 1300 230 (2) Audi 100 1500 240 (2) Austin C-series L6 562 (2) ('56 Austin-Healey 100-6) BL "B" L4 OHV 335 (2) BL "E" L6 345 (2) ("complete") BL "O" L4 OHC 298 (2) BMW M52 3.3,3.5 Big Six 500 (2) BMW M60 Small Six 388 (2) BMW slant-6 turbodiesel 430 BMW 4.5L V12 607 (2) BMW M105 Diesel 6 2.5L 430 (4) Buick 350 450 Buick 401 685 (1) ('59 Nail Head) Buick 430-455 V8 600 (one ref showed 640) Buick 1963 odd-fire V6 414 (2) Buick V6 375 Buick 3.0 V6 '85-up 350 Buick/Rover 215 V8 318 (and Olds) Buick 1961 215 V8 324 (2) Cadillac V8 390 720 (1) ('59) Cadillac V8 472-500 625 Cadillac V-16 1,300 (2) (1931) Cadillac 331 V8 699 (2) (1949) Chevy Corvair flat 6 300 Chevy 1.8-2.0 L4 302 (4) "J car" pushrod Chevy Chevette 1.6 SOHC 300 (4) (also Opel) Chevy Vega L4 285 Chevy II 153 L4 350 Chevy L6 194-250 440 Chevy L6 292 Chevy L6 216/235 630 (2) Chevy V6-90 229, 4.3 425 Chevy V6-60 2.8, 3.1 350 (2) Chevy small block V8 575 (generic for '60s-'70s motors) Chevy small block V8 535 (1) ('59 Corvette 283 w/alum. intake) Chevy V8 348/409 620 (1) Chevy big block V8 685 Mark IV Chevy big block V8 Mark V Chrysler 2.2 L4 216 (6) (bare motor) Chrysler 413 wedge 640 (1) ('59 300-E) Chrysler 331 Hemi 745 (5) 1955 Citroen 2.0 Douvrin 4 263 DeSoto 383 630 (1) ('59) DeSoto V8 675 (5) (276-341 CID, '50s) Dodge V8 645 (5) (241-325 CID, '50s) Dodge 361 625 (1) ('59) Edsel 361 680 (1) ('59) Ferrari 312T 397 (2) (V12 3.0L racing engine) Ferrari "250" V12 382 (2) FIAT/Ferrari Dino V6 285 (2) (model 206) FIAT/Ferrari Dino V6 296 (2) (model 246) Ford Kent 1600 Ford Escort OHC 1600 Ford 1.3-2.0 OHC Ford 2.3 Lima/Pinto L4 418 (2) (also 2.0, 2.5) Ford 2.3 Lima/Pinto L4 450 (2) (turbo) Ford Germany Taunus V4 205 (2) (and SAAB V4) Ford England Essex V4 327 Ford Germany 2.0-2.8 V6 305 Ford England Essex V6 379 (2) (3 liter) Ford 3.8 V6-90 351 (4) (w/start, alt, less clutch) Ford 170-250 L6 385 (except Australian w/aluminum head) Ford 240-300 L6 Ford flathead V8 525 Ford flathead V8 569 (1) ('53 239 CID) Ford Cosworth DFV 353 (2) (racing engine, DOHC, 3.0L) Ford SOHC modular V8 Ford DOHC modular V8 Ford 255 Windsor 468 (4) Ford 289/302 V8 460 (late 5.0s are a bit lighter) Ford BOSS 302 500 Ford 351 Cleveland 550 (includes BOSS and Australian 302-C) Ford 351 Windsor 510 Ford Y block V8 625 (272-312 CID) Ford FE big block 650 (332-428 CID) Ford FE big block 670 (1) ('59 352 CID) Ford 429/460 V8 640 Ford BOSS 429 680 (iron block, aluminum heads) Isuzu 1.8 Diesel L4 384 (4) Isuzu 1.8 gas L4 311 (4) Jaguar old design 6 Jaguar new design 6 Jaguar V12 680 Lincoln 430 740 (1) ('59) (also Mercury 430) Lotus 907 (Esprit) 275 (3) (inc. alt. & starter, no clutch) Marmon V-16 931 (2) (1931) Mercedes SOHC V8 alum. 452 (2) Mercedes SOHC V8 iron 540 (2) Mopar Slant Six 475 Mopar 273-340 "A" V8 525 Mopar 360 "A" 550 Mopar 361-383-400 V8 620 (5) Mopar 413-426W-440 V8 670 (5) Mopar Street Hemi 765 (690 bare) Nissan 240-300Z 6 Nissan CA20 FWD 269 (4) belt cam Nissan Z20 NAPS-Z 2.0 346 (4) RWD chain cam Olds 215 V8 318 (same as Buick/Rover) Olds 260 V8 Olds 304 "Rocket" V8 671 (2) first Olds V8, 1949 Olds straight-8 614 (2) '40s motor Olds 330 J2 700 (first generation V8) Olds 330-400 560 (5) low deck, w/accessories, no flywheel Olds 350-403 V8 '86-up lightweight design Olds 394 725 (1) ('59) Olds 371, 394 760 (5) Olds 400-455 620 (5) high deck w/accessories, no flywheel Olds 262 V6 Diesel 590 (4) (from GM SAE paper) Olds 260 Diesel Olds 350 Diesel Opel 2.8-3.0 CIH L6 395 (2) Peugeot 204 Diesel 272 Peugeot Douvrin 2.0 4 263 (2) Peugeot 104 1400 260 (2) includes transaxle Pierce-Arrow V-12 1,130 (2) (1932) Plymouth 361 640 (1) ('59) Pontiac L4 350 Iron Duke, Tech IV Pontiac Tempest slant 4 470 Pontiac SOHC 6 450 Pontiac 389 V8 650 Pontiac 389 V8 590 (1) ('59) Porsche 4.7 SOHC V8 574 Porsche 901 6 401 (2) (1963) Rambler 327 V8 600 Rambler 327 V8 670 (1) ('59) Rover 3500 V8 318 (same as Buick) Rover 3.0 SOHC L6 432 (2) Renault 2.0 4 Douvrin 263 (2) Renault 2.8 V6 375 (2) (also DeLorean, Peugeot, Volvo) Renault EF-1 395 (2) (racing version of P-R-V V6) SAAB V4-60 206 (2) (also Taunus, Ford) SAAB slant-4 290 (2) (also Triumph) Studebaker 289 650 Triumph 2, 2.2 L4 [TR2-4] Triumph slant-4 290 (2) (also SAAB 99) [TR7] Triumph 2, 2.5 L6 403 (2) [TR6, GT6] Triumph Spitfire/Herald Triumph Stag V8 446 VW flat-4 air cooled 200 VW flat-4 water cooled VW inline 4 Rabbit/Golf

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- on an engine with stock chevy parts its either piston speed reaching 4000 fpm or valve float which every is lower and in many cases 4000 fpm is realy pushing over the limit the engine will handle, to figure piston speed to divide 48000 (the number of inches in 4000 ft) by twice the engines stroke so on a 350 chevy (48000/7=6857 rpm max) on a 383 it would be (48000/7.5=6400 rpm max) but if you get to valve float at a lower rpm then you should figure your redline is a few hundred rpm lower than valve float rpm, if you want to avoid problems! remember the stress on the rotateing parts SQUARES when the rpms double so the stress on those rod bolts ETC. goes off the scale fast as the rpm gets over 6000 rpm in most engines, now of course if you add/replace parts with all forged , ballanced, high dollar parts the rpm can be raised slightly but even then with the high dollar parts 4500fpm is pushing things in most engines!!! NOW we all know people that spin their engines past those limits but its just a matter of time before something breaks as the parts are not designed to handle that level of stress,and stress is cumulative so every time they exceed the rpm levels the chances something will let go incresses! AND Brad-ManQ45 is correct that long rod to stroke ratios, short strokes to keep piston speeds low and good quality valve train parts are necessary to lower the stress on rotateing parts to get an engine to live at higher rpms.heres some stuff to read, http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech-c.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm http://www.stahlheaders.com/Lit_Rod%20Length.htm http://madlab.me.utexas.edu/~yspae/thesis/thesis/node46.html http://www.aros.net/~rbuck/rick/rodstudy.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/chamber-tech-c.htm http://arc.engin.umich.edu/arc/conf97/wayne_tz.pdf http://arc.engin.umich.edu/arc/conf97/wayne_ch.pdf http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html http://eric.virginia.com/install_university/installu_articles/volumetric_efficiency/ve_computation_9.012000.htm http://www.tpub.com/engine1/en1-105.htm http://www.motortecmag.com/archives/2001/jun/JUN01-01/JUN010101.html http://www.torquecentral.com/techdocs/GM/ls1/LS1_Tech_article.htm http://www.c5registry.com/Documents/ls6/INDEX.HTM http://www.rapidline.com/calc/ http://www.carcraft.com/editorial/article.jsp?id=868 http://www.rapidline.com/calc/engine/pcpiston.htm http://www.superflow.com/support/support-engdyno-tt-torquevsspeed.htm I have several thousand more articles in the data files but if you read and understand these that should give you a small idea of whats involved!

there are several things that effect the max lift your heads/springs/retainers can handle other than (spring bind) look at the diagram here. http://www.cranecams.com/master/vsprings.htm .read this http://www.hotrodheaven.com/comments/messages/9058.html now with cheap springs its usually the spring coils stacking up and (binding) that limits the amount the valve can be opened but the bottom of the retainer hitting the top of the valve seals/valve guide comes in as a close second in the race to cause clearance problems so you must check that too! just adding the better springs that are normally rated at either .540, .575, .600 will give you more clearance but in most cases Ive measured the retainer /seal clearance will limit you to about .500-.510 if your just changeing the springs, if you want to do it correctly and don,t have the measureing equip. just take the heads down to your local high performance cylinder head rebuilder and have him machine the valve guides for the .600 lift clearance and have him use these valve seal,(Hi-Performance Teflon Seals) (Machining Required) read this http://www.cranecams.com/master/vmisc.htm and this http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar79842.htm

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/phone.html http://www.carsandparts.com/Links-Corvetteparts.html http://clubs.hemmings.com/licoa/comlinks.htm http://www.motorportal.com/corvette.htm http://home.isoa.net/~mharrisj/race.html http://www.racehome.com/partsalphlink.htm http://www.tsinternet.com/racersguide/links/partmanu.html http://listoflists.com/Top/Sports/Auto_Racing/Business_-_Racing_Related http://www.racersworld.com/cindyrac.htm http://www.racepages.com/index.htm http://www.racesearch.com/gen_html/ecomt.html http://www.racesearch.com/gen_html/manuf/8150.html http://www.martelbros.com/cgi-bin/store/ws400CS.cgi http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/rotatingmain.html

just a couple questions? have you talked to these people. http://www.markwilliams.com/ they will custom make ANYTHING YOU WANT and YES they ARE EXPENSIVE but they do excellent work! or these people http://www.artmorrison.com/ they have a 9"ford supercar rear houseing you you might use? and yes your correct that having a dana 60 or a 9" ford axle will "SCREEM SPEED" but if I was turning 9s @150mph I would be alot more concerned with not haveing things break an keeping my butt safe than what people thought about my rear suspension mods. and having run very low 10s I can tell you anyone who is putting up big $$$$ to run against you already knows your not stupid enough to run a stock car against them and figures you have done extensive mods.and if your car sits low to the ground and everything under the car is painted flat black there very little they can see other than you have a non-stock rear end and anyone running for big bucks with slicks is already assumed to have done those mods,.

ok lets look at one of the better CHEAP COMBOS http://Parts@sallee-chevrolet.com/Cylinder_Heads/Vortec.html YOU MUST ADD BETTER SPRINGS AND CLEARANCE FOR .550 lift Applications Application Series & Grind Number Fair idle, moderate performance usage, w/plate or manifold nitrous system, good mid-range torque and HP, bracket racing, 3400-3800 cruise RPM, 10.0 to 11.5 compression ratio advised. Basic RPM 3000-6500 PowerMax F-278-2 replacing: CC-278-2 Cam Specifications/solid lifter flat tappet cam Degrees Duration @ .050 Int./Exh. Degrees Advertised Duration Int./Exh. Degree Lobe Separation Open/Close @.050" Cam Lift Int./Exh. Lash Hot Int./Exh. Gross Lift Int./Exh. 238/248 dur @ .050 114 lsa .480/.500 lift Super Victor for Vortec Heads #2913 700cfm carb, you will need a good high rear gear like a 3.5-4.1 to get this to run at its best and a manual trans or a higher than stock stall converter will help to but this should get you 420 hp and 425 ft lbs