grumpyvette

IF theres any way your going to invest in a decent aftermarket block as a base for a SBC you sure want a relieable/durrable rotaing assembly, ID strongly advise a 5140 04 4340 FORGED CRANK and 7/16" ARP rod bolt rods and a bit of thought as to the compression ratio, forged pistons and a decent valve train to avoid damage to the block with a 4340 FORGED crank theres not much in the way of significant mechanical strength lost going to the more comon 350 main bearing size journals and you reduce the bearing surface rotational speed just a bit so rotational frictions reduced slightly and most SBC cranks are designed for that bearing dia. CHEVY SMALLBLOCK V-8 Crankshaft Casting Numbers SBC TWO PIECE REAR MAIN OIL SEALS 1130.......327.......forged..medium journal...3.25" stroke 1178.......302.......forged..medium journal...3.00" stroke 1181.......305,350...cast....medium journal...3.48" stroke 1182.......350.......forged..medium journal...3.48" stroke 2680.......327.......forged..small journal....3.25" stroke 2690.......350.......forged..medium journal...3.48" stroke 3279.......302.......forged..medium journal...3.00" stroke 3474.......283.......forged..small journal....3.00" stroke, military tank use 4577.......327.......forged..small journal....3.25" stroke 4672.......327.......forged..medium journal...3.25" stroke 310514.....350.......cast....medium journal...3.48" stroke 330550.....350.......cast....medium journal...3.48" stroke 354431.....262.......cast....medium journal...3.10" stroke 3727449....283.......forged..small journal....3.00" stroke 3729449....265.......forged..small journal....3.00" stroke 3734627....327.......forged..small journal....3.25" stroke 3735236....265,283...forged..small journal....3.00" stroke 3735263....283.......forged..small journal....3.00" stroke 3782680....327.......forged..small journal....3.25" stroke 3814671....327.......forged..small journal....3.25" stroke 3815822..265,283,302.forged..small journal....3.00" stroke 3835236....283.......forged..small journal....3.00" stroke 3836266....283.......forged..small journal....3.00" stroke 3848847....283.forged or cast..sm. journal....3.00" stroke 3849847....283.......forged..small journal....3.00" stroke 3876764....283.forged or cast..sm. journal....3.00" stroke 3876768....283.......forged..small journal....3.00" stroke 3884577....327.......forged..small journal....3.25" stroke 3892690....350.......forged..medium journal...3.48" stroke 3911001....307,327...cast....medium journal...3.25" stroke 3911011....307,327...cast....medium journal...3.25" stroke 3914672....327.......forged..medium journal...3.25" stroke 3923279....302.......forged..medium journal...3.00" stroke 3932442..267,305,350..cast...medium journal...3.48" stroke 3941174....307,327...cast....medium journal...3.25" stroke 3941178....302.......forged..medium journal...3.00" stroke 3941182....350.......forged..medium journal...3.48" stroke 3941188....350.......forged..medium journal...3.48" stroke 3949847....283..forged or cast..sm. journal...3.00" stroke 3951130....327.......forged..medium journal...3.25" stroke 3951529....400.......cast....large journal....3.75" stroke SBC ONE PIECE REAR MAIN OIL SEAL 10168568...265.......cast....medium journal...3.00" stroke 12552215...364.......cast....medium journal...3.62" stroke, Gen. III, 6.0L 12552216...325,350,364.......cast....medium journal...3.62" stroke, Gen. III 5.7L LS1, 5.3L, 6.0L 12553312...293.......cast....medium journal, 3.27" stroke, Gen. III, 4.8L 12553482...293.......cast....medium journal, 3.27" stroke, Gen. III, 4.8L 14088526...305,350...cast....medium journal...3.48" stroke 14088532...350.......forged..medium journal...3.48" stroke 14088535...305,350...cast....medium journal...3.48" stroke 14088552...350.......forged..medium journal...3.48" stroke and if your going to drop $1500 on a BARE BLOCK your probably going to want to try to insure it doesn,t get cracked when a cheap cast crank fails so an ALL FORGED AND BALLANCED ROTATING ASSEMBLY is a good idea.

why build any I6 when you could install a decent chevy V8 with near 400 cubic inches and make 450-500 hp without half trying, and probably cheaper

RESULTS of hurricane FAY, 48 hours of HARD ALMOST CONSTANT RAIN Ive got 6"-10" of water standing in some areas of my yard that are normally dry, and the pond in the back yard now looks like it covers about a full acre vs its normal 3/4 acre but in a couple days things will be back to normal......we needed the rain, so no big deal heres the normal level the water is currently about 6" deep at the base of that small tree in front of the shop doors, but would need to get about 2.5 feet higher to reach the shop floor and that would flood many of the houses before my shop.........thats after almost two solid days of almost constant hard rain

http://gallery.barrymorrison.com/albums/userpics/10001/SHP_Brochure-1v2a.pdf http://www.jegs.com/p/Dart/1029740/10002/-1/10719 AT $1456 there not CHEAP but they a certainly a BARGIN compared to putting $1000 in machine work into a 35 plus year old chevy block thats noware near as stong and very likely to be rusted internally and one that might have cracks and at $1000 less than thier full race block its a deal for a street/strip engine combo http://www.jegs.com/p/Dart/1064093/10002/-1/10719 whats the differance? its got a bit less machine work, its not quite as thick and its got less nickle in the casting, and theres less options

most guys I talk and deal with,seem to think that slapping a set of headers on thier car is all thats required to boost performance....ANY HEADERS! ...and they fail to realize that both the header design and the exhaust system behind them require a good deal of thought if you want the maximum benefits, and that simply hooking a restrictive exhaust system to the collectors on the best headers will negate most of thier potential benefits. most commercial headers are designed mostly for ease of manufacturing and ease of installation,little thought goes into maximizing the cylinder scavaging which is thier main function. your fooling yourself if you think headers will provide a big boost in hp/tq without the low restriction exhaust behind them,and in most cases that requires a larger dia. exhaust system and adding an (X) to the system and extending the header collectors at thier full dia. up till at least the exit of the (X) so the twin exhaust pipes cross sectional area can provide that reduced restriction to flow, rather than the reducers many guys install to the collector exits to adapt them to the stock exhaust system example of a well laid out exhaust (MELROSE) but even that system could be hurt if you slap restrictive mufflers on it

and an obvious need to be differant & unique, good fabricating skills, lots of spare cash, and nearly zero expectation to make horsepower from the extensive mods

BTW when you go to get a compressor I found one 7hp/60 gallon home depot compressor would barely keep up with a sand blaster I had, I priced a 10hp/120 gallon to replace it, and decided on just adding a second commpressor IT works very effectively and the cost was about $870 for the PAIR, MUCH MORE COST EFFECTIVE THAN A SINGLE LARGER COMPRESSOR

pictures are a couple years old, taken the first day we had electric power while we were just stuffing things into the new shop

have a buddy that stopped by to have me look at a problem with his honda, now I generally won,t poke a honda with a sharp stick, but hes a nice guy and needs help, we traced the problem to a partly clogged fuel filter,(orriginal and hes got 100K on the car) and I suppose some 120 pound double jointed guy from japan was the morron who decided to locate the fuel filter, up above the steering/suspension and down behind the engine and under the master cylinder where its bolted into a bracket and all the hot engine parts and you can barely see it without a shop light and requires a crowsfoot wrench and a 2 ft extention to reach it from below the car, naturally theres special bolt thats cross drilled and hollow that fastens the filter to the fuel rails and it requires two copper o-rings and standing on your head to get access.....and naturaly the bolt faLLS , but fails to fall thru to the floor and its wedged where it can,t be seen, well after looking for the little S.O.B. for 15 minutes with magnets and mirrors and several shop lights its no place to be found and we can,t continue without it, my friend says well just order a new one in the morning.....B.S. that suckers there I just can,t see it, so I do what any experianced mechanic would do, I crank both air compressors up to max pressure and get the air hose with a long spray nozzle,and put on my safety goggles and start shooting high pressure air into every area on the frame and suspension....well in no time Ive got a very dry, clean engine compartment and the bolt that was missing comes flying out of some crevis it was hiddening in onto the shop floor and in about 10 more minutes work the cars up and running.....see! thats were experiance and persistance pays, you know that theres several ways to find drop bolts

carefully re check EACH of the 17 bolt locations and find the bolt that still stuck,yeah! an impact air ratchet will generally work as will a 24" breaker bar, and sears sells sockets designed to remove rounded off bolts if THATs a problem and heating a bolt is rarely going to work on cylinder heads simply because the head of the bolt your heating is a long way from the threaded area on the bolts and most of the heats transfered to the cylinder head long before the threads get hot

print out several copies of the bolt lay form out that I posted and carefully count/verify and check off EACH of the 17 bolt locations ....YES IM fully aware your 100% sure you got them all. but IVE seen more than one guy crack a head while trying to pry un a head with one bolt still in place!, and generally a couply good whacks with a rubber mallet on both sides of vthe head is all the force thats required to free a head from the block once all the bolts are removed and WHILE prying a head loose with a hammer handle in a port is not unheard of its looking for trouble to PRY any head loose

might help

in the sept 2008 chevy high performance magazine they did an intake/cam test,on a sbc 383 with 10.5:1 cpr and brodix IK200cc heads and a couple of comp cams solid roller cams and a 750cfm holley carb, keep in mind the single plane intakes used a more radical cam than the dual planes were tested with, and the engine combo they used is unlikely to match your so the results on your combo are sure to differ, but its still rather interesting to see the differances an intake makes , BTW they DID test the EDELBROCK DUAL PLANE intake with the larger cam, that the single planes were tested with and and the EDELBROCK single plane with the smaller cam the dual planes were tested with Chevy high performance mags sbc intake test Dual planes BRAND …………Torque…….rpm……hp…….rpm Brodix-hv1016…..471………3900……437...…5500 Dart.42811000…...482………3900……434…...5400 Edelbrock Rpm air gap..7501..485………3900……441…..5600 BIG CAM test.........494......4200.....509....6200 Professional prod Crosswind…………482…….3800…….430…5500 Summit-226010……487……3800……..430…5800 Weiand 8501……….489……3800……..433….5600 Chevy z28 /327/365hp intake….465……3800………417…5600 Single planes BRAND ………Torque…….rpm……hp…….rpm Brodix hv1011..472…………5100….492……6200 Dart..42411000..479…………5100…512…….6400 Edelbrock vic jr..2975……477………….5100…500…….6100 EDELBROCK SMALL CAM....466………….3800…448…….5600 edelbrock super vic……..479…………..4900….507…….6400 GM performance 10051102…….484………….5200…..515……6300 HOLLEY KD 300-110………478………….5100…..509……6300 Pro..prod Hurricane……..478………….4900….509……6200 Weiand team G………..478………….5200…..507……6100 world prod…….483………….5000…...512…..6300 NOTICE HOW THE LARGE CAM DUAL PLANE, COMBO DID VERY WELL

first any welded part with threads needs to cool to room temp THEN have an oiled thread tap run thru the threads to chase them to spec. next "Try using some anti-sieze compound." or loctite or oil (depends on application)on all threads

I get lots of questions on if MPFI (MULTI PORT FUEL INJECTION) or CARBS or TB (THROTTLE BODY) injection is better,SO I figure ID post a very brief explanation and info links,on how each system basically functions ,most fuel current injection systems but NOT all of them use direct port injection,and a fuel pressure return regulator with a return line and most of those current systems use a fuel pressure of at least 35 psi-40psi which the standard carb fuel pump with its 6-7 psi won,t supply theres some TB injection systems that work on much less fuel pressure but in most cases still will above the 6-7 psi level. bits of INFO carbs http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question377.htm http://www.roadkill.com/~davet/moto/carb.monologue.html http://popularhotrodding.automotive.com/60684/0802phr-how-carburetors-work/index.html TBI http://autorepair.about.com/cs/generalinfo/l/bldef_791.htm http://www.goingfaster.com/spo/tbi.html MPFI http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufsOIOQmFHc http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-injection.htm http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h20.pdf http://www.customefis.com/GMEFI.html http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R10179-2.pdf http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/hardcore/0305em_holley/index.html http://www.holley.com/91503201.asp

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0931472164/victorylibrary http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/nitrous-tech-c.htm this might help btw if anyones reading thru the thread and has a HYDROLIC CAM, CAST OR HYPEREUTECTIC PISTONS or stock connecting rods ID strongly suggest a 100-120hp shot and about 6200rpm is near the practical limits...yeah! we all know a guy who ran a 250 hp shot of nitrious on a stock engine.... but you don,t generally get away with silly stuff for too long

we would need ALOT more info on the motor and drive train combo to make a WILD GUESS!, but as long as the combo was set up with the clearances and lube system, and the rotating assembly and main caps have ARP fasteners, required to run a large dose of nitrous and work with the heat generated, and theres a slightly rich /wet fuel air mix (try to keep it at about 12.4:1-12.5:1, at the LEAN edge under full nitrious)and the timing advance doesnt get you into detonation, Id suspect your 200-250 range will prove to be about the max reasonable range, Ive run a 250 shot on my all forged full roller 383, but its happier with 200hp levels and the rear suspension tends to puke parts less at 200hp levels also, keep in mind stress is cumulative, the harder you stress the parts the lower the expected life span, and that rpm levels exceeding about 4300-4500 ft per minute in piston speed almost always lead to failures of the lower end and the valve train control becomes far more difficult above about 6300rpm in a sbc, and those valve control issues are frequently the root cause of cataclysmic failures

theres plenty of fluid dynamics math and research out there to show that the distances the exhaust travels between exhaust pulses and the diam. and length are easily calculated, and past that length the second previous pulse has little effect compared to the current and previous pulse energy and reflective wave and lets not forget the cam timing displacement and intake port all effect the cylinder scavaging the headers can effectively provide also http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan/fluids/page7/PipeLength/pipe.html http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm http://www.headerdesign.com/ http://www.pontiacracing.net/js_header_length1.htm http://www.slowgt.com/Calc2.htm#Header example , my 383 vette has a cam with exhaust cam timing that opens at 83degs bbdc, thats 97 degs atdc, http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119661&lvl=2&prt=5 Bore: (Inches) 4.03"<BR>Exhaust Valve Opening Point: (Degrees ATDC) 97 degs Peak Power RPM: 5500rpm Calculated information appears below Header Pipe Diameter: (Inches) 1.84"< Header Pipe Length: (Inches) 37.65 Collector Diameter: (Inches) 3.5 Collector Length: (Inches) 18.82 so ideally the (X) is placed at that point to maximize scavaging but thats not always possiable due to clearance, and if you choose to place an (H) just before the mufflers its mostly to reduce resonance or noise not increase scavaging but it tends to reduce the restriction to flow

the IDEA of the (H) pipe is to allow some of the flow mass in the orrignating flow route to exit the original exhaust thus lowering the resistance,to flow the restriction presented by the single pipes cross sectional area provided,and pressure dropping off,and due to a significant percentage of that mass exiting and taking the lower resistance secondary route lowers pressure and the disruption of the sound waves tends to lower the sound of the exhaust also. keep in mind properly designed headers and collectors provide the cylinder scavaging and there length and dimensions are calculated to maximize that scavaging effect the exhaust past the collectors is basically designed for noise abatement and safely exiting the exhaust gases. you get very little scavaging effect from anything past the collectors if the systems designed correctly

"I could put BOTH and X and an H- pipe in the system. Would this be a waste of effort??? Does the H-pipe equalize the pulses to the extent that a downstream X-pipe no longer functions as it should?" if you place TWO it tends to mellow the exhaust tone and reduce resonance in the car and depending on the location and pipe dia. and length it usually does help the cylinder scavaging a bit more than one alone, but again the closer to the exhaust headers the better off youll be and ideally the (X) should be closer to the engine than the (H) but that being said up front, I installed an 3"(H) just behind/under the bellhousing rear , where the headers ended,and a second 3"(H) just in front of the mufflers on a friends GTO 3" full exhaust and a very nice rumble/lopey idle and a good wide power curve for his 455 pontiac was the result, were both pleased you may want to keep in mind the HEADERS and the primairy diam. amd length and the collector design are what effects the cylinder scavaging , the exhaust past that is basically designed to supply a level of noise reduction and a low resistance to flow path for the exhaust to safely exit the car, if the headers are designed correctly the engines exhaust system past the collectors just needs to be designed to reduce noise and provide that low resistance exit path. the (H) or(X) reduces the restriction to flow and blends the exhaust pulses to reduce the noise, if the exhaust past the collector does act as a collector extension on the headers is usually a bit smaller and restrictive than ideal. in an ideal world the restiction to flow past the header collector would be very similar to running open headers and the main funtion of the exhaust would be only noise reduction, and exiting the exhaust where it would not re-enter the crew compartment. but the truth is most exhaust system pipes are too small in dia. to allow that so the (h) or (X) provides a way to reduce flow restriction and blend and cancel out the pulses that make the noise

just like when adding an (X) the (H) should be placed as close to the header collectors as the clearances under the car permit to reduce exhaust flow restriction, the idea is to basically ballance the flow rates and reduce the potential back pressure, in the exhaust to increase the cylinder scavaging by doubling the cross sectional area the exhaust flow occupies as it exits, thus reducing the flow restriction. A properly designed (X) is less restrictive and more effective but in many cases clearances under the car make an (H) far easier to fabricate and install.

IF your fabricating an (H) in your exhaust http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi this calculator above will prove helpful http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?function=Search ITEM 37354-9VGA OR you can buy a pre welded kit http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/751638/10002/-1/11525 another little tip when fabricating the center of the (H) connector pipe is to use two sections of pipe aboit 1" longer than 1/2 the distance between the main exhaust pipes in length,with the ends modified (fish mouthed using the calculator above)to intersect the main exhaust, and then expand one of the un-modified ends to telliscope inside its twin, thus the angle of the cut axis and length of the ends is semi-adjustable making it far easier to fit and weld. and use a hole saw thats one size smaller to cut the holes in the main pipe that your welding the ends of the (H) over

a few things you should know Ive had the best luck with the extra thick synthetic /cork composite mix gaskets http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FPP%2D1604&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FPP%2D1630&autoview=sku [1] synthetic oil desolves that yellow 3m weatherstrip gasket adhesive than many guys use over a few months time so you cant use it to glue valve cover gaskets [2]you must use a o2 safe gasket cement like the BLACK RTV silicone cement and you must clean and degrease the cover with acetone or a similar solvent before glueing on the gasket to get the best retention [3]you need to allow at least a few hours to over night,depends mostly on temp. for that black silicone gasket cement to set up before installing the valve covers, and placeing them gasket side down on a table with a sheet of wax paper under them and a 20lb weight on top of each valve cover while the cement sets up is the best way to insure the gaskets stay correctly aligned on the valve covers perimeter [4]a light coat of (PAM) cooking spray on the lower gasket surface keeps them from sticking to the cylinder heads after installation [5] these gasket retaining rings add a great deal to the valve covers ability to firmly hold the gasket WITHOUT bending SHEET METAL VALVE COVERS OR CRACKING CAST ALUMINUM VALVE COVERS AND ARE WELL WORTH THE MINIMAL COST [6]doing it correctly the first time saves time and money http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_25118_-1 yes you get a PAIR at that price

OLD POST COVERS THAT INFO I can,t believe the stuff I see at times..in the car mags that are SUPPOSED to be articles composed by guys who know what they are doing!!!!!!! I picked up a copy of one of the more comon, chevy based magazines and theres PICTURES of a guy dipping head bolts in yellow weather strip adhesive to be used as a thread sealant on the bolt threads (its not designed to come in direct contact with oil and/or high heat coolant),and its not going to give the correct tq readings either, and on the next page the guys gooping, GOBS of clear silicone like youll use to seal aquariums or bathroom fixtures 1/4 thick on/around the intake manifold ports, NEITHER SEALANT is DESIGNED FOR or is LIKELY to perform correctly IN EITHER APPLICATION, and WHERE does this guy think all that excess silicone will go once the intakes torqued down???? theres only two high probabilitys, it will flow into the port where it will eventually harden and get sucked into the cylinders or it may hang there causing a restriction in the port, or if it flows down, it gets into the lifter gallery where its eventually going to get into the oil pump pick up screen, restricting or blocking oil flow i would not let these guys fix a flat tire let alone work on MY ENGINES all I can do is shake my head and wonder who if ANYONE screens these articles always use the manufacturers suggested installation instructions, as some applications or gasket types REQUIRE differant lubes or sealants but heres a rought guide head bolts #5, dip clean dry thread in http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=386&catid=69 then insert and tq heads in place head gaskets #3 main bolts #2 rod bolts #2 oil pump stud and nut #4 oil pan bolts #5 oil pan gasket #6 cam spocket bolts #4 timing cover gasket #6 timing cover bolts #1 intake bolts #1 intake gasket #6 thermostat housing bolts #5 thermostat housing gasket (also do you really need it) usually yes #6 Exhaust manifold/header bolts #1 Exhaust manifold/header gaskets #3 Water pump bolts #5 water pump gaskets #6 fuel pump #6 crank/damper bolt #1 Torque converter bolts #4 flywheel/flexplate bolts #4 bellhousing bolts #2 1 antiseize 2 oil or ARP thread lube 3 copper coat spray gasket sealer or apply dry in some cases (see manufactures suggestions) 4 loctite (red or blue depends on application ,read the lables) 5 http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=386&catid=69 6 black high temp RTV use the correct stuff for the application, AND READ & FOLLOW THE DIRRECTIONS it prevents PROBLEMS

lately IVE used one of these for porting http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93621 there cheap crap and your not out much when they fail so you just look at them as part of the cost and disposable, naturally you need good 1/4" shank carbide cutting burrs and they cost more than the tool, and you need to wear safety goggles