grumpyvette

I got asked what compressor I use, well heres a picture, I use twin 7hp/60 gallon compressors feeding a single garage wide run of schedual 80 1/2" PVC piping with brass fittings rated at 660 PSI, yeah! IM well aware you should NEVER USE PVC for air, I used it for 10 PLUS years ,in my old shop, my buddies used it for over 12 years in his shop,and its what Ive installed in the new garage, schedual 80 1/2" PVC piping with brass fittings rated at 660 PSI, if and when I have problems it will be replaced, I fully agree, if you used larger dia,or schedual 40 your just asking for problems

ell its gone to a good new home

good point, I frequently forget , and assume most guys have access too or know what tools are involved, in most projects and have a few friends willing to get invoved in car related projects

one of the facts of life is that high performance cars tend to break down and its rarely sitting in your driveway when it does and youll rarely have the correct tools and parts with you so getting it back to your garage usually includes towing charges UNLESS you own a car trailer, now obviously you can buy one but if your skilled and own a welder you can usually build a nice one for less than 60% of the normal cost. this is where a decent MIG welder comes in handy http://www.tjtrailers.com/store/car-carrier-trailer-plans-18x80.html http://www.trailerplans.com//index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=13&Itemid=2 http://www.plans-for-you.com/trailer.html http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ItemBrowse/c-10101/s-10101/p-100000169592/mediaCode-ZX/appId-100000169592/Pr-p_CATENTRY_ID:100000169592 http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907312 http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907324 http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907321

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=NAL%2D10067353&autoview=sku this is the fastest cure, but not necessaraly the cheapest but in most cases its going to be very cost effective before you spend a dime elseware BUY and watch this CD and read the book, it will be the best $32 you ever spent http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html if you were local ID show you step by step how to pull it apart and inspect the components and make intelligent choices as to routes you can take based on your budget and goals, but trust me! BUY THE BOOK IT CAN POTENTIALLY SAVE YOUR WALLET ALOT OF sceaming and agony

without pulling the shortblock appart and carefully inspecting the components you have no idea what is causing the problem or what needs to be replaced or if its worth even working on whats left, it could be something fairly easy to repair ,or the engine might be total junk,at this point, but starting or trying to spin it over will only make things worse

a 383 is simply an extremely comon performance engine combo which is a basic 350 engine with a .030 over bore and a stroker 3.75" crank assembly rather than the stock 3.48" stroke of the 350 in stock form,...again READ THRU THE LINKS ESPECIALLY THIS THREAD http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/131229/ looking thru the links I posted and this chart might help CHEVY SMALLBLOCK V-8 BORE AND STROKE 262 = 3.671" x 3.10" (Gen. I, 5.7" rod) 265 = 3.750" x 3.00" ('55-'57 Gen.I, 5.7" rod) 265 = 3.750" x 3.00" ('94-'96 Gen.II, 4.3 liter V-8 "L99", 5.94" rod) 267 = 3.500" x 3.48" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod) 283 = 3.875" x 3.00" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod) 293 = 3.779" x 3.27" ('99-later, Gen.III, "LR4" 4.8 Liter Vortec, 6.278" rod) 302 = 4.000" x 3.00" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod) 305 = 3.736" x 3.48" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod) 307 = 3.875" x 3.25" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod) 325 = 3.779" x 3.622" ('99-later, Gen.III, "LM7", "LS4 front wheel drive V-8" 5.3 Liter Vortec, 6.098" rod) 327 = 4.000" x 3.25" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod) 345 = 3.893" x 3.622" ('97-later, Gen.III, "LS1", 6.098" rod) 350 = 4.000" x 3.48" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod) 350 = 4.000" x 3.48" ('96-'01, Gen. I, Vortec, 5.7" rod) 350 = 3.900" x 3.66" ('89-'95, "LT5", in "ZR1" Corvette 32-valve DOHC, 5.74" rod) 364 = 4.000" x 3.622" ('99-later, Gen.III, "LS2", "LQ4" 6.0 Liter Vortec, 6.098" rod) 376 = 4.065" x 3.622" (2007-later, Gen. IV, "L92", Cadillac Escalade, GMC Yukon) 383 = 4.000" x 3.80" ('00, "HT 383", Gen.I truck crate motor, 5.7" rod) 400 = 4.125" x 3.75" (Gen.I, 5.565" rod) 427 = 4.125" x 4.00" (2006 Gen.IV, LS7 SBC, titanium rods) Two common, non-factory smallblock combinations: 377 = 4.155" x 3.48" (5.7" or 6.00" rod) 400 block and a 350 crank with "spacer" main bearings 383 = 4.030" x 3.75" (5.565" or 5.7" or 6.0" rod) 350 block and a 400 crank, main bearing crank journals cut to 350 size

the basic SBC engine derives its potential mostly from cylinder head flow rates displacement compression ratio and cam timing a 383 displacement is about the most cost effective, horsepower per dollar combo you can build, simply because it maximizes the 350 blocks displacement for the money spent and a 383 will usually produce about 40hp/40ft lbs more than a 350 built to similar specs. the differance in performance in most sbc engines is due mostly to changes in those parts/factors listed above BUT DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR AND BUY THESE FOUR BOOKS FIRST BEFORE YOU SPEND A DIME ON PARTS http://www.amazon.com/Build-Performance-Blocks-Budget-Design/dp/1884089348/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1212078611&sr=8-5 http://www.amazon.com/John-Lingenfelter-Modifying-Chevy-Engines/dp/155788238X/ref=pd_sim_b_title_2 http://www.amazon.com/Smokey-Yunicks-Power-Secrets-Yunick/dp/0931472067/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1212078836&sr=8-2 http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html heres a bit of info your generally going to get between about 1.0-1.35 HP per cubic inch from a SBC with a good combo and in good tune without getting into the more exotic and expensive parts. so getting a bit over 515 hp from a 383 is fairly close to the N/A limit with basically STOCK type components using pump gas and running realistic rpm levels where the engines going to last a few years. that doesn,t mean you can,t get more, but youll generally work a good deal harder and spend noticably more on components to do so. naturally if youve got the cash flow for 18 degree heads and a valve train that likes 8000 rpm you can do noticably better , but a mix of aftermarket parts and basically stock components puts you near that level look thru these http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html http://www.chevymania.com/dyno/ http://grandsportregistry.com/dyno.htm http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/131229/ don,t feel good building your own or just want component? your almost always way ahead to buy a complete ballanced rotating assembly from a single manufacturer, that includes all the moving parts and bearings http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/ http://www.ohiocrank.com/rotatepage1.html http://www.adperformance.com/ http://www.lewisracingengines.com/

http://www.americantorque.com/game/engine-id/ I blew thru this test in about 1 minute , but I was surprised I got all of them correct EXCEPT the 348 and 409 which I reversed identified ( I should have took more care, I knew that)

now that youve installed that T-ram hows the cars power curve and your track times compared to the single carb intake?

first the questions BTW NICE CLEAR PICS WHY does the tower extend that far above the fuel cell floor level? ID have it extend no more than a 1/4" above the floor and have a reversion or slosh washer/baffle in the top to trap fuel once its in the sump under (G) forces. FUEL PUMPS are VERY in-efficient at pulling or sucking fuel and far more effective at PUSHING fuel, so the closer to the tank and the lower the pump location the better. when you say the engine looses power in turns of one dirrection but NOT the other, my first thought was whats your OIL PRESSURE in the turns in BOTH dirrections? whats YOUR FUEL PRESSURE AT THE CARB INLET in BOTH TURN DIRRECTIONS? most chevys use a oil pressure sender that cuts the ignition voltage at somewhere between 4-8 psi and a oil pan with a wet sump can sometimes slosh enought oil up into the baffles on hard sustained turns to momentarily drop the oil pressure as the pump pick-up sucks air for an instant, since the pick ups rarely centered and baffle designs vary wildly its comon for an engine to work fine in one dirrection of latteral (G) forces but not the other. THOSE APPEAR TO BE 3/8" fuel line fittings,(the internal dimensions less than 5/16" , if your hp exceeds about 450 hp your probably restricting fuel flow and need to change to a 1/2" fitting and lines this might help http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/189285/post/1432855/hl/fuel/fromsearch/1/#1432855

thats probably a good IDEA (CRAIGS LIST) but selling it was not quite as important to me as giveing a fellow hot rodder first crack at a good deal, hes in no huge rush to sell it, but wants to get some of his money he spent on it back. concidering the shape its in (ALMOST LIKE NEW) its a screaming deal. home depots sells this and its got LESS capacity for $390 http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100053881&N=10000003+90401 btw if anyone ELSE decides to sell a decent amp range ,name brand TIG welder ,at a good price, please let me know ,IVE got several friends looking for one

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/131229/ this should also help

IF you have not yet done so, take the time and effort to read thru these whole links, http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuelish-tendencies-understanding-fuel-pressure-and-volume-spg-140.html http://www.fuel-pumps.net/fuelpumpsfaq2.html#2 PRESSURE IS THE MEASURE OF RESISTANCE TO FLOW THE DEAD HEAD STYLE REGULATOR works with a spring on a valve that allows the valve to open once the DIFFERANCE IN PRESSURE between the sides of the regulator valves fuel lines has changed think of it as a door that has 7-10psi on the feed side and you want lets assume 5.5 psi at the carb as the fuel pump fills the line it eventually (fractions of a second )reaches the point where theres a voluum of fuel past the valve with enought pressure to allow BOTH the SPRING and the fuel pressure past the valve to close the valve untill the fuel is reduced to the point that the SPRING and the remaining fuel pressure/voluum beyond the valve can not hold the valve closed and the valve is force open and held open untill, that diffearance in pressure is restored. now lets launch the car hard, the pump that had maintained 8-10 psi to the regulator, 5.5 psi past the valve and the spring in the regulator is now fighting the fuel in the line feeding the regulators enertia, and the sudden drop in pressure as the throttle drops full open in the carb,what the pump sees is the full 8-10 psi or MORE the regulator sees a sudden drop off to near zero and it opens wide, if the fuel pumps able too it tends to flood the fuel bowl for a second then the valve slams shut, untill the pressure drops off as you hit each gear the cycle repeats, the result is a surge in pressure and a rapid drop off in voluum then a rapid flood of fuel that rapidly cycles as you go down the track if you had a accurate fuel pressure sensor at the carb youll see a rapidly cycling pressure/flow if some crud gets stuck in the valve it cant close and your carb FLOODS OUT, because it must fully close every few fractions of a second to work correctly the bye-pass regulator functions in a totally differant manor assuming the same set-up but you replace the regulator with a bye-pass style regulator, the bye-pass regulator works by opening a valve too a much lower pressure path for the fuel to return to the tank,the open fuel return line. anytime the pressure exceeds the 5.5 psi,youve set it to, so the fuel line to the carb can only see a max at that 5.5 psi. now the pumps sitting there potenially supplying at 8-10psi just like before, but it can never exceed 5.5 psi because the bye pass regulator bleeds of any excess the pump supplies. but lets look at your launch, if the pressure drops to 6, 07 psi nothing changes at the carb, it it increases to 10 or 12 psi, nothing changes at the carb,if it drops to to 5.5 psi or less the valve to the bye pass line will close but thats seldom a problem, it the sudden changes in pressure and over pressures that happen when you suddenly change the fuel flow required or the (G)loads on the system that potentially screw things up,the bye-pass regulator style regulator isolates the carb and maintains the desired 5.5 psi FAR MORE CONSISTANTLY now lets assume the spring get weak over time or the adjustment gets set at 4 psi in error, with the bye-pass style youll probably never notice ,if you had a accurate fuel pressure sensor at the carb youll see a rock steady pressure/flow should some crud get stuck in the valve and it cant close NOT MUCH HAPPENDS, because its normally OPEN not closed if you check youll see MOST EFI systems are BYE-PASS regulated designs also due to control and relieability issues but on the dead head the cycle just gets about 20% more erratic and more frequent in the cycles, further weakening the spring over time btw your fuel pump tends to run under less stress and run cooler with a bye-pass style regulator also

DO YOURSELF A BIG FAVOR and don,t slap the cheapest P.O.S stock replacement type pump into the car with no return line or regulator and no fuel pressure gauge,...... youll be FAR better off with a RETURN LINE and FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR installed and a fuel pressure gauge so you can instantly adjust and check your fuel pressure, even if you use a electric fuel pump, keep in mind electric fuel pumps PUSH fuel far more efficiently than they PULL fuel and electric pumps use the fuel FLOWING THRU them as a COOLANT, so mount the pump as close to the lower surface level of the fuel tank and as far to the rear of the car, inside the frame rails as you can. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CRT%2DP4594&N=700+115&autoview=sku ADEQUATE (for your current set up) http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CRT%2DP4601HP&N=700+115&autoview=sku OR http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG3136%2D2&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG3136%2D2&N=700+115&autoview=sku BETTER (and YEAH ID SURE INSTALL a return line,regulator and fuel pressure gauge)

do you intend to replace it with a mechanical or electric replacement pump? do you have a fuel pressure regulator and return line? Holley 12-327-11 $75 PUMP Holley 12-803BP $67.39 regulator http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D12%2D327%2D11&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MRG-1561 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D12%2D803BP&N=700+115&autoview=sku if you want a steady and fully adjustable pressure fuel flow youll need a return line style regulator and a decent pump in the 80-140 gph range matched to the correct sized fuel lines http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuelish-tendencies-understanding-fuel-pressure-and-volume-spg-140.html theres a good deal of usefull info in this link above do the job correctly the first time and avoid the problems and guess work and testing ,cheap auto store replacement stock pumps usually get you envolved with

BTW (bits of info from previous post that might help http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34418 http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80815

Jerminator96 GOOD POST GUY! you beat me too that and basically covered it well! SCCAZ BTW YOULL need to know your true compression ratio, fuel octane and trans and rear gear ratios also when sellecting a cam

"Perhaps if it wasn't a stick welder!" TIG, OXY-ACETOLENE and ARC all use "sticks" of some form as a material source and Ive done probably 70% of all my heavier welding with an arc or OXY-ACETOLENE torch so having a good ARC welder in the shops certainly a big help, naturally knowing how to effectively use any welder helps a great deal, and while Ill agree that a MIG welder is easier, or as my welding instructer used to say " A MONKEY could probably be trained to use a MIG" its not necessarily the best welder for every application bits of arc welder info that are useful -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.millerwelds.com/education/calculators/stick_amperage_calculator.php btw this might help some of the newer guys Originally Posted by The Torch Arc welding electrodes are identified using the A.W.S, (American Welding Society) numbering system and are made in sizes from 1/16 to 5/16 . An The E6011 is not a complete number. It also needs a diameter designation such as "1/8" E6011 electrode." The rod (electrode) is 1/8" in diameter The "E" stands for arc welding electrode. Next will be either a 4 or 5 digit number stamped on the electrode. The first two numbers of a 4 digit number and the first 3 digits of a 5 digit number indicate the minimum tensile strength (in thousands of pounds per square inch) of the weld that the rod will produce, stress relieved. Examples would be as follows: E60xx would have a tensile strength of 60,000 psi. E110XX would be 110,000 psi The next to last digit indicates the position the electrode can be used in. 1. Exx1x is for use in all positions 2. Exx2x is for use in flat and horizontal positions 3. Exx3x is for flat welding The last two digits together, indicate the type of coating on the electrode and the welding current the electrode can be used with. Such as DC straight, (DC -) DC reverse (DC+) or A.C. * Exx10 DC+ (DC reverse or DCRP) electrode positive. * Exx11 AC or DC- (DC straight or DCSP) electrode negative. * Exx12 AC or DC- * Exx13 AC, DC- or DC+ * Exx14 AC, DC- or DC+ * Exx15 DC+ * Exx16 AC or DC+ * Exx18 AC, DC- or DC+ * Exx20 AC ,DC- or DC+ * Exx24 AC, DC- or DC+ * Exx27 AC, DC- or DC+ * Exx28 AC or DC+ So the E6011 has a tensile strength of 60,000psi, can be used in any position and can be used in either AC ot DC- welding. Basically it is a middle of the road welding rod. that can be used by less experienced welders in a variety od situations since it produces a deep penetrating weld and works well on dirty,rusted, or painted metals. A similar rod is the E6010. It produces similar results but can only be used with DC+ or DCRP (DC Reversed Polarity) __________________

I can,t BELIEVE that no ones snapped up this deal yet!

congrats! on a completed swap! BTW ID suggest looking carefully at the tire clearance to the suspension and wheel wells, when you swap to larger slicks and take into account the expanded dia. at high rpms and speeds slicks are great for traction but they change shape and dia. far more than standard tires at high speeds I had over 3" of clearance while sitting still on the pavement but at 135 mpr the slicks contacted the inner wheel wells untill I totally tubbed the rear, Id also suggest you take it easy on the launches the first few times as the increased traction tends to shead drive train components with 3500rpm plus launces with a decent BBC torque.....LETS NOT GET INTO EXACTLY WHY I KNOW THIS FIRST HAND, WITH MY 496 BBC CORVETTE and how I got good at fiberglass repair!

broken rings are frequently the result of improper install with the non-correct clearances , on the rings OR the piston to bore clearances OR lack of proper oil flow to cool the bore and rings OR detonation, resulting in excessive heat, and frequently having the ring end gap drop to zero locking the piston in the bore for an instant until the rings or piston fracture. look closely at the ring ends look for contact marks and the piston lands , on the upper edges, look for a frosted crystaline surface appearance

IM going to let some lucky guy on this site get a screaming deal if they are close by... http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/stick/stickmate-lx235ac-160dc/ MY brother -in-laws upgrading to a miller mig welder since he found mine is so damn easy and hes been useing it rather than his own welder and HES ask me to find a home for his HOBART STICKMATE 160/235 amp welder that LISTS FOR $608 ,I know for a FACT its a couple years old but has LESS THAN TWO HOURS welding time "TOTAL.. IF THAT" HE wants $225 and thats firm, but they sell new OCCASIONALLY on EBAY for $300-350 but they are heavy and shipping gets expensive, but list higher in most stores so its a great deal if you live close enought to drive over and pick it up in the south florida area. this is a good welder for 1/8"-3/8" steel like frames, suspensions,brackets, fabricating cross members and motor mounts, etc and does a decent job on exhausts ETC. send me a personal message if your interested (Im not making a dime on this, IM just passing on a good deal I can,t use, but that will help someone) IF Id didn,t already own a LINCOLN 300 amp ARC WELDER, MILLER 252 amp MIG,WELDER MILLER 330 amp TIG WELDER and an OXY-ACETOLENE TORCH/TANKS WELDER ID jump on this myself! as its an excellent first shop welder

http://www.freealloil.com/ works better than PB blaster in most cases

Since Ive never used a welder over seas, and I know american appliances generally won,t work on non-usa power connections,(I don,t know how japans power is, but I know some european stuff a total non-useable deal in the USA) Ive got to ask, just curious.....can you USE a welder designed for plugging into over seas power inputs once you move here and the power is differant?