grumpyvette

not GALVANIZED, http://www.cranecams.com/?show=promo&id=48 http://www.cranecams.com/?show=promo&id=48 btw MOLY base lubes are your first and best break-in lube durring the first few minutes http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&lvl=2&prt=15 http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/548e.pdf CRANES Super Lube Break-In Concentrate is an anti-wear additive formulated with a high concentration of special zinc dithiophosphate to provide sustained protection against cam lobe and lifter scuffing and wear. This oil supplement is to be added to the engine oil for the initial break-in period after the installation of a new camshaft and lifters. Part No. 99003-1 -- 8-ounce container

the old familiar stuffs getting hard to find E.O.S. was discontinued but..... http://www.sdparts.com/product/1052367/GMEngineOilSupplimentEOS16ozBottle.aspx the new stuff... http://www.acdelco.com/html/pi_vehcare_lub.htm (use the drop down menu) Part 10-106 12371532 E.O.S. Assembly Lubricant (1 pint) its still available if you know where to look, most but not all parts counter guys will know this but youll run into a few who just insist its not available

if your serious about building engines and cars youll keep records and easy access to the data you use or need, Ive got 8 gigs of hard drive info on the cars and engines Ive built and the data used to build them, I hate randomly searching for stuff I know Ive used in the past so I keep most info/data under files in the shop computer and duplicated on the house computers hard drive

don,t forget tire dia. effects results also http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/bvillecar/bville-spreadsheet-index.html HERES OTHER INFO LINKS http://www.wallaceracing.com/reargear.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcmph.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrpm.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrgr.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/transc.htm#tabtop http://users.erols.com/srweiss/transc.htm#Auto

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/product-p/htmd-4.htm these allow you to access a good deal more floor space in a crowded garage, one person can easily push a car in any dirrection accross the floor with little effort, and theres no need to leave room to access the doors simply because the cars easily moved when access becomes necessary http://www.tylertool.com/gearwrench17.html http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/tylertool_1960_799210 these wrenchs make you wonder how you ever lived without them http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product?storeId=10101&Pr=p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2011461&TID=231000000&TID=231000000&productId=2011461&catalogId=10107 stuff thats worthless most of the time but darn handy on occasion http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94011 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=39749 if you don,t have a lift you need 4 of these REALLY http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34924 these are darn handy in the shop http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=9365 http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907321&Category_Code=M

most shops have or would like to have an air compressor to run air wrenchs, fill tires, run die grinders ETC. the problem, is most reasonably priced air compressors can,t maintain the flow voluum at reasonable pressure levels and your constantly waiting for the tank to re-pressurize so you can use the air tools for more than a few minutes at a time, cheap compressors lack the tank size and flow to keep up, and few guys have the room or want to spend several thousand dollars on a commercial compressor, which can easily cost twice too three times what two home shop,compressors cost , (just try priceing a 15hp 160 gallon compressor that will duplicate what the two compressors can do) yeah, the use of TWO of the cheaper 60-80 gallon single stage compressors feeding a single comon air pipe with taps around the shop is usually far cheaper than trying to find a decent single compressor that will keep up with most tool demand, keep in mind pressures above about 125 psi are not usually needed or necessary but having the voluum of air flow two seperate compressors can provide is usually a big plus. just try priceing a 15hp/160 gallon compressor (the same as two smaller copmpressors) BTW I got my current compressors at HOME DEPOT for $450 each, rated at 7hp 80 gallon, 130 psi similar to this, but I don,t currently see the exact one listed http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100349429 btw I used several hundered feet of 3/4" schedual 80 PVC pipe rated at 660 PSI to pipe the air around the shop and used brass fittings screwed and glued into the pick-up access points , both compressors feed a 3/4" pipe that then dips to a drain valve then shoots over the rafters to a (T) where its routed along the walls to every place I might EVER use air flow to clean or opperate tools in the shop,and its worked flawlessly at about 1/8 the price of copper pipe and sweated joints I used in the previous shop. keep in mind moisture tends to run down hill so route your pipes so that the pipes drain to drain valve locations and all access points to draw air are higher than the drain points IE don,t run the pipe level with the floor,pick-up points should be higher than drains and there should be several drain valve points, one near the compressors and at least one more before any access to the air for tools my compressors are feeding the pipe at 5 feet from the floor,it slants to a drain at 4.9 ft from the floor,then shoots dirrectly up the wall,over the rafters in a sweeping curve and drops to the opposite side of the shop at a drain at 5 ft from the floor, all access points are tees 6 ft from the floor yes IM aware that PVC pipe is not generally suggested for pressurized air....and sweated copper or galvanized steel is suggested... Oh IM only too aware of the minimal risks, but Im also aware of the huge cost differance, like 800% higher for copper and steel pipe rusts,, the copper pipe I used in the last shop would have cost me hundreds of dollars in this shop,the better moisture tollerance and several hundred psi safety margin (pipes rated at 660 psi and it will never see 140 psi) and almost negligible risk of injury, the worst case is it fails too hold air pressure and my air tools don,t work I probably would never have tried it if a buddys shop had not used it without any problems for over 12 years now , and hes located less than 5 miles from here so he gets similar shop temps and pressures on the pipe,

youll need a few basic tools and a good understanding of what your doing, but its certainly not all that difficult. I was asked where to get a CHEAP degree wheel heres one you can print out and save for engine builds on the engine stand (put curser on an click) http://savetheledges.org/test/AVS/images/tech/CrankDegreeWheel.png KINKOS can print this and laminate it in a 18" dia. you could buy these from summit racing or similar parts from jegs http://www.summitracing.com/ http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10001_10002... MOR-62191 $44 (wheel) MOR-61755 $47 (SBC) MOR-61756 $47.(BBC)crank sockets SUM-900188 $17 (piston stop, head off) SUM-900189 $6.95(piston stop, head on) TFS-90000 $94.95 (degree kit) youll also want two flat tappet solid lifters and two weak check springs instructions http://www.iskycams.com/camshaft.html http://www.thedirtforum.com/degree.htm http://www.ridgenet.net/~biesiade/camdegree.htm http://www.hotrodder.com/kwkride/degree.html http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/803.pdf

looks both impressive and exceptionaly clean & neat....congrats

BTW, if your looking to buy a welder ID strongly advise taking a course on welding FIRST so you understand what your looking at and what to expect and so you have a good feel for what your looking to do and what equipment is necessary,then stop by a few large welding shops and ask the owner if hes ever considered upgrading his equipment? most will jump at the chance to unload older equipment if given a reasonable offer, the TRICK is knowing EXACTLY what your looking at, having a good idea as to age and condition and value and getting a DEAL, Id generally avoid anything priced higher than 1/2-1/3 of current retail. http://www.welders-direct.com/home.htm?gclid=COCN55WByI0CFQzDYgodgiRbLg https://weldingsupply.securesites.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:UNDEF:OR:K2535-2::::std*QUICK*SEARCH but be fair! include all the accessories in the bid! look around your local area for the guy or guys that do welder repairs, they can very often get you a decent deal on a used welder or point you to someone whos looking to upgrade thier current equipment that you might be able to make a good deal for on thier older equipment. just stick to name brands and ID STRONGLY ADVISE STICKING TO WELDERS that REQUIRE a 220volt single phase electrical feed lincoln miller ESAB HOBART HTP THERMADYNE because having access to parts and service and manuals is MANDATORY if you do buy equipment thats USED ask for a demonatration on BOTH the thin sheet metal like patching a fender and exhaust pipes and thicker 1/4-3/8" thick stuff DON,t forget the welder requires a MATCHED electrical feed in your garage and it may require a tank of shield gas and may require accessories or longer cords, and consumables like wire for MIG units or sticks of filler rod for stick or tig welders, all those things add up fast!

read the customer reviews, a high percentage of the purchasers think its TOTAL CHEAP junk since your willing to spend $300 on one floor jack...ID buy one or better yet, TWO of these http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00950167000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Lift+Equipment&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes EVERYONE LOVES THEM, yeah thier heavy but what good is light weight if it won,t work, and at a 4 ton rateing they have an extra safety margin don,t forget to get 4 of the HF 12 ton jack stands, remember your BUTTS under that vette and unless you can do a one handed bench press with the vette ID advise makeing damn sure it cant ever tip/fall on you when your working under it... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34924 btw a differant option http://www.kwiklift.com/Options.htm

THANKS FOR THE INFO GUYS , all the info is useful, and the more I get the better my chice is likely too be. Ive used a few differant models and brands so far but Im not in a huge hurry so Ill take my time and make a good choice if I can

Im in the market for a plazma cutter for the shop, Ive used a few friends own and have some experiance but, If you own one, Id love to hear your thoughts as to which models work well and which don,t.... for those unfamiliar with plazma cutters, after you get a decent welder youll eventually want a PLAZMA CUTTER in the shop, a plazma cutter is a tool that allows precise cuts in almost any conductive metal, this comes in VERY HANDY when your fabing up exhaust headers, transmission mounts, motor mounts, accessory brackets, oil pans and similar projects http://www.plasma-cutter.com/technical.htm http://store.cyberweld.com/plasmacutters.html http://www.htpweld.com/products/plasma_cutters/index.htm http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=WD&Category_Code=PC

http://www.weldmart.com/rel4.htm these guys have some parts for some of the older linde welders

I think linde was bought by ESAB or went out of business but they were a good known brand and that certainly sounds like a great price for a 250 amp TIG welder with those accessories. but ID verify that its a single phase and not a three phase welder, before you buy it just the argon tank costs about $300 new, and a high amp water cooled torch costs over $300 I aquired a 330 amp MILLER tig built in the late 1980s and its still working fine, just because a welders older does not necessarily mean its not a good deal it cost me almost $600 for the argon tank, and 50 ft of 3 conductor 2awg cord, 100 amp breakers etc. and wiring it up......thats after I got the welder ID certainly ask your local welding repair service if they have or can get parts and if service/repair is still available http://www.mb-soft.com/carlj/welder.html heres the newer version http://www.weldingdirect.com/tig252helsys.html

http://torquespecs.xoompages.com/hi_po_chev.htm http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/41598_cylinder_head_flow_bench_database/index.html http://www.airflowresearch.com/chevy_dyno.php http://www.idavette.net/hib/camcon.htm http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles.php#SBC http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/131229/ you might get some useful info if you read thru these links and sub links

I found this on a welder discusion thread, I thought it might help Taken directly from a Joe Kalassa , a welding instructor from Lincoln Eletric "“Some teams fail to achieve proper fusion, which basically happens, for instance, when you take a little 110-volt welding machine and work on heavy things like shock mounts,” Kolasa says. “Some people feel they can do anything they want with one of the smaller machines that is intended for thin materials. If you were to use that machine when it comes to something like a shock mount, you might as well skip welding it and just stick some bubble gum there instead because it won’t work. It’s a misunderstanding of the welding process that comes from a lack of education.” BTW my neighbor owns a lincoln 2300 weldpack 110 volt mig/flux welder its decent for sheet metal repairs after you practice awhile....it will do up to about 1/4 mild steel if you can get to both sides of the seam, but its a joke on somethings like suspension brackets, it just can,t get the heat necessary to form a deep penetrating weld

I happened to go by the local welding supply store yesterday and just for grins inquired about the cost of a good welding torch and decent 5 ft twin commercial size tanks. now Im not saying you can,t get a better deal, just that it gives you some cost referance to work from. decent set of victor torches designed for auto repair with two torches and 6 types of tips, gauges , hoses ETC. torches $325 tanks ran $330 each to buy or rental at about $26 a month and $200 deposit each so rental runs $400 deposit and $26 a month plus the $325 for the torch purchase to buy the tanks runs $660 plus the $325 for the torch purchase call it a $1000 or slightly more with taxes you save about $300 up front to rent but you pay that durring the first year to year and a half , and that monthly charge continues FOREVER ,on a rental. while its true you have the $400 deposit back if you return the tanks the torches are useless without them so buying the tanks becomes a better long term deal for a shop in some cases. in either case rental or owner, the tanks cost about $35 EACH to refill

I think maybe your reading what IM saying the wrong way, a 220 volt welding feed to 140-160 amp welder is a damn nice thing to have in the shop, but after screwing arond with 110-125 volt welders for years , I just about gave up on them, example, my next door neighbors got one of those 3200 lincoln weld pac mig welders, it does a fairly decent job on sheet metal body repairs with practice, but its just not able to make solid welds on a good deal of the frame, and suspension and heavier stuff that keeps coming up in this hobby, will it work, sure it will, but when your only talking about a 20% differance in cost in some cases or swapping to a stick welder at even lower cost that will do a decent welds with practice , then you need to step back and look at your options and value per dollar spent. its not so much that the 110 volt 140 amp machines don,t work, (THEY DO!) its just that if your spending $500-$1000 on a decent welder for the shop or garage I think theres better choices and values for the currency your parting with.....I don,t know a single person that ever bought or used BOTH the smaller amp ratted 110 volt welders and the 220 volt welders that thinks the smaller welders were a wise investment after useing both, UNLESS they were restricted to having a 110 volt feed and no 220 volt outlets in thier shop/garage Im not knocking the small machines as much as pointing out value per dollar and options and limitations you face and looking a few years into the future your just not talking a huge differance in cost http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=K2472-1 http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907312 http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907335 http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=500527

waiting_for_a_z nailed the info fairly well, just a suggestion keep a CO2 fire extinguisher somplace close and handy (EXAMPLE by the shop / garage door ) while welding and always try to keep a water hose with a nozzle the can be nearly instantly turned off and on under pressure and near by, while you weld on cars , 99% of the time you won,t need them but if you do youll need them badly and won,t want to be looking for them or guessing as to thier location

I REALLY wish some of you gentelmen were located far more locally so I could allow you to play with some of my welders and see the differances, IM sure some of my friends would bring over thier smaller welders and let you compare them also. If I could have only one it would be a decent torch & tank oxy-accetolene combo as its so versital, my stick welders like the lincoln ranger are good also for most things on a car (steel) but every application has its ideal tool and youll be better off taking a welding class at some colledge or trade school or finding some friends who have experiance and welders to play with BEFORE making a choice than just blindly buying ANY welder

"I have a 140 amp welder. It is a 220 volt though" thats a totally differant class of welder, Id agree that the 140 amps is sufficiant on steel with a 220 volt welder, but IVE had nothing but less than satisfactory results with several 110-125 volt welders and don,t know anyone with experiance that uses one (if they have 220 volt service) if they have the option of a 220 volt welder

"Still suggest the 180?" a 140 amp 125 Volt welders a damn TOY! get the 220 volt 180 amp, mig. BELIEVE ME HERE,I may not be a welding expert but I weld enought to know the differances, having a decent welder is a whole lot better than struggaling with a TOY that won,t make the job any easier YOU will eventually REGRET buying a 125 volt 140 amp welder if you buy one, If you were closer Id let you try both as between myself and several frinds Ive had access to a great deal of the more comon welders, and KNOW the differances

some of you guys, amaze me with the computer graffic skills you possess, and a few of the guys welding skills are obviously far above average

"So the consensus is that the Lincol 140 or Millermatic 140 are the way to go? I think in the long run youll be MUCH HAPPIER with a 180 amp 220 volt mig it makes FAR MORE sence too spend a little more up front than to buy the 140 amp 120 volt model and then need to upgrade (which you most certainly will if you stay into welding) look, Ive played with a bunch of welders and those 100-140 amp 120 volt welders are just basically toys that can get the job done in skilled hands ,in MANY but not nearly all cases, if your only talking 1/4" or less steel http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=K2473-1 http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=500527 http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907312 http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=500526

http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=K2471-1 I hate to be the bearer of the truth here but... Ill BET your dreaming if you thinking a 140 amp mig flux core mig will weld aluminum thicker than thin gauge sheet metal effectively. its a 120 volt household power welder! Ive never seen anything but a 220 volt and 180 amp or larger mig do much on aluminum just because the necessary heat is not there to effectively work with aluminum, and generally youll need a tank of sheilding gas (argon) to work with aluminum its probably fine for most steel and stainless on a car but ID be looking for a larger amp rated mig with a 220V feed for aluminum