grumpyvette

280zwitha383 could you change a few specs on that dyno?? keeping the costs low lets sellect a flat tappet solid lifter cam matching the heads potential, and add the 4" stroke, 12.7:1 cpr and this cam below to the 434bbc http://www.crower.com/misc/valve_timing_chart.html http://www.survivalmotorsports.com/ChevroletBBCams2.html Chevrolet Performance Camshaft; Part Number SS4265 lifter-type Solid Big Block 1967-93 396-454; intake-duration@.050 lift 264; exhaust-duration@.050 lift 274; intake-lift .612; exhaust-lift .637; lobe sep angle 108 io 26 ic 58 @ .050 eo 71 ec 23 @ .050 $74.95 if your going to use those heads ON A 434 BBC use a matching cam (above) and 12.7:1 cpr with a engine dyno like that

ITS ALWAYS a good idea to step back and think thru each component change and its effects on reaching your goal, now many components you buy for that 396 bbc are wasted money if you decide to upgrade later to a larger bore block, now you can make 550hp and 500 plus ft lbs fairly easily with a 434 stroker if your willing to build it to run on high octane fuel, not pump gas, but almost the same total expence will build a 496 stroker that will top 600hp on high test PUMP GAS, the differance is mostly the bore,displacement and stroke, and of couse the block used. don,t get hung up on block cost, or for that matter any one component, look only at total expence and results per dollar spent. and don,t get into a rush! increased displacement is a lot more effective cost wise than spinning an engine to extreme rpms to move the same volume of air to burn the same amount of fuel to make equal power and its alot less strain on the valve train now don,t think IM saying DON,T build the 396, what IM saying is be sure your working to0 acheive the goal you really want rather than wasting time and money, you can easily build a killer 396/434 stroker but think it thru!!BEFORE spending a dime

the edelbrock heads are ok for the application,in a 434 they will get you to 10.0:1, cpr. the edelbrock torker II is one of the least effective intakes available, if you have the hood clearance get an air gap dual plane.

the 454s 4" stroke cranks a drop in deal in MOST 396 blocks your current rods work fine you will need a differant damper and flex plate or flywheel or a ballance weight added to the flexplate or flywheel (454s are EXTERNALLY ballanced) the 454 short blocks the better idea but its also far more expensive, you could probably get the 434 built for under $1000-$1200, useing mostly what you have now and the pistons /rings, bearings and a ballance job,designed for that application

http://www.worldcastings.com/prods_pages/020750.htm these heads have a 80cc combustion chamber but the ports are 350cc so only a dual plane intake will work, on that 396 and even then the ports are too large to be ideal. now if it was my 396 heres what ID suggest, sit down ant think your options thru....a 454-496 short block could be swaped for that 396, or if you want to sick with the 396 block, install a reasonably cheap cast STEEL crank from a 454, and these pistons in your current combo, to build a stroker 434 with a higher compression ratio. but no matter which route you sellect youll want to get up to betwen,about 10.5-11:1 cpr http://kb-silvolite.com/performance.php?action=details&P_id=110 http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/PDFs/Crank06.pdf theres some good info here http://maliburacing.com/patrick_budd_article.htm http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/6230_rat_versus_mouse_engines/index2.html http://www.idavette.net/hib/vette_bbfh.htm I really wish you were local, I could help you out with a few parts, help, ETC. but we would need to discuss it in detail, as theres no sence in throwing money and effort on a half thought thru project

Ok I build at least 5 bbc for every sbc, http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/crc.htm your cpr is WAY lower than 10:1 with those 119 cc heads closer to 7:1 youll need EITHER better increase cpr or change your build plans, let me look over your options, ILL post shortly

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66215

http://www.alaniztechnologies.com/headterms.html http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html http://www.dw1977.cz28.com/photo2.html http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/41598_cylinder_head_flow_bench_database/ http://home.earthlink.net/~hennad/results.html http://www.malcams.com/legacy/misc/headflow.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/heads1.html#GM%20LT4 http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/41598_cylinder_head_flow_bench_database/photo_11.html http://www.kendrick-auto.com/head_flow_figures.htm 1985,1992,1996 vettes keep the rubber side down and the fiberglass off the guard rails

while what you say is true...I seriously doubt GOLEN would have lost in court without PROOF that what the engine purchaser stated was at least mostly true, if in fact the engine was as described vs represented and described to the purchaser then the builder is SCAMING the customer, you can,t FAKE the use of components like , 2 bolt vs 4 bolt blocks,or scat vs EAGLE CRANKS if the customer paid for a 4 bolt block and eagle crank, and got anything else he was SCAMMED

its SOUNDS like a blown power valve to me! but like I said this stuff is easy to diagnose hands on, since your not all that carb rebuild skilled Id suggest replacing the power valve and gaskets first and throw the clear fuel filter in the dumpster, and get a QUALITY fuel filter the stock one from a 1985 corvette can be adapted fairly easily

read thru this thread post#19 http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43472&page=2&am p;highlight=settled

most driveshaft shops would rather build you a heavy duty drive shaft to exactly match the application than rebuild and modify old parts of unknown origin,strength and condition, yeah it will easily cost more but you usually get a much better & STRONGER final product keep in mind that outside dia. wall thickness and the material used have a huge effect on the shock and torque loads the driveshaft can handle, and stock driveshafts were never meant to handle the torque, rpms and shock loads racing puts them thru

the setting the float level suggestion is valid, Id also check and most likely replace the power valve ,ESPECIALLY if the cars EVER BACKFIRED or COUGHTED back, but Ive got a few questions, (1) first how do you know the gas is draining into the intake?, (2)and how do you know the float bowls are empty? (3)whats your fuel pressure at the carb? (4)have you tested the needle and seat valves for crud/leakage (they are a high probability? (5)are you useing a GOOD fuel filter? (6)are you useing a return style pressure regulator? (7)when you let the car sit,have you pulled the sight plugs to verify the bowls empty I really wish you were closer, because this stuff is easy to diagnose (hands on) (8)whats the carbs vacuum reading at idle, at what rpm?

badly set up suspension and stupid don,t play well together, (wheelie bars? a little less aggressive launch?, comon sence? when you cant see anything but sky you would think applying a little less throttle might help???)

look youll sellect the correct FORGED DISHED pistons, crank and rods for a TURBO APPLICATION , and get the desired compression ratio, thats NOT an issue, the fact remains that the longer stroke and larger displacement will produce more power and more tq at a lower average rpm than a 350 even with a turbo

"Noticably more grunt and mine revs like a 283 which I didn't think would be the case" stroke and displacement has LESS effect on the engines ability to rev than most people expect, if you have a correctly matched port size cam and compression ratio even a 572 bbc with the correct solid lifter cam reves like a 283, thats why I get fustrated when guys insist on building a 302 or 327 vs a 383-or 396 sbc, while its true the stroke may limit your upper rpms to a lower level youl still rev very quickly and the extra displacement makes the car accellerate faster

race engines that produce a higher and narrower power curve need to be geared so youll spend a great deal more time closer to max rpms (between the torque and power peaks http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/bvillecar/bville-spreadsheet-index.html OLD POST we have all heard it, " you need massive low rpm tq" "you need a screaming high rpm hp peak" well heres some info, More in-depth description: http://www.revsearch.com/dynamometer/torque_vs_horsepower.html http://www.dynacam.com/Product/Torque_vs__Horsepower/torque_vs__horsepower.html http://vettenet.org/torquehp.html http://auto.howstuffworks.com/horsepower4.htm http://homepage.mac.com/dgiessel/engine/hpvstq.html first thing to keep in mind is that theres no such "thing" as horsepower, horsepower is a mathmatical formula explaining the RATE at which TORQUE (rational force ) can be applied increasing the torque at a given RPM or increasing the RPMS with a given torque increases THE RATE(HORSEPOWER AVAILABLE TO DO WORK)GEARING ALLOWS YOU TO APPLIE THAT FORCE at a given force level but not at a RATE APPLICATION LEVEL that exceeds the engines peak power. put a differant way, if we ignore drive line friction loss,if an engine puts out 400 ft lbs at 6000rpm (400 x 6000/5252equals (457 hp)we can gear it to apply 1600 ft lbs at the wheels by running the gearing at 4:1 but that also cuts the application rate by 4:1 so the HP applied stays constant at the 1500rpm at the rear wheels 1600 x 1500/5252 equals (457 hp) the formula for hp is (tq x rpm/5252=hp example 450 ft lbs of torque at 3000rpm=257hp 450 ft lbs of torque at 6000rpm=514hp because the torque is available at that higher RPM RATE and at the higher rpm useing gearing the rotational force the engine supplied can be applied faster or slower to the rear tires [color:"red"] here read these ALL CAREFULLY [/color] http://www.69mustang.com/hp_torque.htm http://www.ubermensch.org/Cars/Technical/hp-tq/ http://vette.ohioracing.com/hp.html http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine1.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/horsepower.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question622.htm where most guys go wrong is in not correctly matching the cars stall speed and gearing to the cars tq curve, if you mod the engine for increased high rpm performance but fail to also match the stall speed and gearing to that higher rpm tq curve much of the potential improvement is wasted. example in the close to stock engine above, the engine should be geared to stay in the 3500rpm-5000rpm range for max acceleration (lower in the rpm range if mileage is a big factor) in the moded engine above the rpm range moved to 4000rpm-6500rpm requireing differant rear gears and slightly higher stall speeds to gain max acceleration in the same car, you should readily see that a trans that shifts at 5000rpm will work in the first example but would waste most of the power curve in the second example,where shifting at 6500rpm under full power acelleration would make more sence. a 3.08 rear gear and 700r4 trans matches the first example well but it would take a swap to a 3.73-4.11 gear to allow the engine in the second example to keep its most effective power band matching that second power curve well. links youll need to figure out correct rear gear ratios http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/bvillecar/bville-spreadsheet-index.html http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html http://www.wallaceracing.com/reargear.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcmph.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrpm.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrgr.htm http://www.prestage.com/Car+Math/Ge...io/default.aspx http://www.geocities.com/z28esser/speed.html http://server3003.freeyellow.com/gparts/speedo.htm http://www.pontiacracing.net/trannyratios.htm http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/gear_ratios.htm

another way you can look at this is a well tunned PERFORMANCE engine with decent heads and cam, should produce between 1.2 and 1.25 hp per cubic inch of displacement 350 x 1.25=437hp 383 x 1.25=479hp

"never argue with idiots they drag you down to thier level and beat you with greater experiance there" I have similar experiance with corvette guys that think ANY MODS on a CORVETTE are WRONG. I usually just ignore them...... " IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!" "When you can come out of a corner and lay black streaks from the exit of that corner until you need to brake for the entrance to the next corner, then you have enough power" Mark Donahue

a 383 has aproximately 9.5% more displacement than a 350 a 383 has aproximately 7.7% longer stroke if built with all other parts needed being identical (except naturally for the stroke related changes) your compression with the same heads and a flat top piston will be aproximately 0.6 higher IE a 9.2:1 will become a 9.8:1 if everything were to remain the same efficincy wise , thats equall to about a 40hp/40 ft lbs MINIMUM gain over a similar 350, but most engines if cammed correctly see more like 50 PLUS hp due too, both the higher compression and the lower rpm power peak and usually wider tq curve, plus the more effective flow curve in the ports , increasing the cylinder fill efficiency (provided the cam, compression and header scavaging are close to matching) ITS almost ALWAYS a good idea and it ALMOST ALWAYS makes the car noticably faster with street compatable gear ratios now that might not sound like a big gain...but in a correctly assembled engine its VERY NOTICABLE, cracking the 500hp barrier with a 383, is noticably easier than with a 350 just some info YES THE HEADS CAM AND COMPRESSION YOU SELLECT MAKES A HUGE DIFFERANCE IN THE POTENTIAL POWER... SPEND AT LEAST 40% OF THE TOTAL ENGINE COST ON HEADS and RELATED WORK...190cc-210cc port size is the range you want http://www.bracketmasters.com/small_block_stroker_383_cu.htm http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/131229/ http://www.diabolicalperformance.com/diabolical383.html

moly axle grease works fairly well

thank you

well keep us advised and its good to know progress is being made.....Im still working on my BBC engine swap prep and parts accumulation/engine build project after 4 years so I understand progress can be slow, things like building garages, finacing weddings, fixing hurricane damage ETC. seem to always screw things up

well don,t leave us in the dark?? any further progress ? track times? street races that embarass the local; rustangs?? inquiring gear heads want too know!!

what I need is exact step by step instructions for computer illiterates (like myself) to produce a printed 18" full size color copy at someplace like KINKOS from the picture on the computer figgure your dealing with a guy who bought a computer about three days ago....... Look IF this was tuning or building an engine IM up to speed, my computer skills in some areas are far less than IDEAL, but as far as getting a picture on a site changed into a poster size degree wheel I can laminate when I need more copies, IM IN THE DARK http://www.fedex.com/us/officeprint/main/ I know it can be done my kids know how...BUT I DON,T