grumpyvette

http://64.226.206.184/tech_info/trans_dims.htm http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/tremec_transmissions_tko_details.htm http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2002/09/transmissions/index.shtml

heres more old previously posted info that may help its always best to install a high capacity baffled oil pan designed for the stroker crank clearances and a windage screen,and be aware when ordering as to which side the dipstick is on the block and the new oil pan is if you buy a new oil pan, BUT, I understand that price is an issue so... one of the little tricks in engine building, is to place that one piece gasket on the block in its normal location, use the 4 corner locating studs in the block as index points, then slowly rotate the crank, notice exactly where the rods/rodbolts come closest to the gasket on all eight cylinders and mark on the inside edge of the gasket with a marker the exact spot,you now move the gasket to the oil pan and mark those spots,if its just minor rod bolt edge contact you may need to only grind a small amount from the rod bolt edges that hit,or from the oil pan rail, if you do grind thru,to cause a potential leak,weld or braze the area thicker,if you don,t own a welder, any good welding shop can build up the outside material enought to allow the clearance without leaks, now take a ball peen hammer and give each location a good hard TAP, (DON,T get crazy),reinstall the pan and check for contact while rotating the crank,repeat procedure untill theres no contact points, yeah I know..your thinking your going to be bending the pan rail so it wont seal correctly.your correct IF you get excessive but in most cases the small dents are so minor thats that not a valid concern btw owning, or having friends that own some type of quality welder is almost mandatory in this hobby, and you don,t need a extremely expensive welder in most cases, but the longer your in the hobby the more youll come to realize the advantages of the better welders and the skill of the better weldors you might also want to know that cheap high capacity baffled oil pans of very good quality for the price are available for many applications, I buy pans from these guys constantly http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_cat.php?id=17 http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_sub.php?id=33 a correctly built 383 similar to that 383 described above (similar to that #71 build but with the mods described )should easilly get into the 12s N/A . yes a cast crank will work,but if nitrous is planed ID STRONGLY SUGGEST forged parts, and the stock oil pan flat out is far less than IDEAL, while this may not fit something similar is advised http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=11330 http://www.milodon.net/main.htm the pan I have on my 383 looks similar to the top pan EXCEPT THAT I have had the sump extended forward to within 3" of the front edge, or about where that side bulge stops and it holds 10 qts "Stroking a 350 to 383 will require lots of clearancing and machine work " to that I can only reply A BIG ..... B.S.....Ive built dozens of 383 and 396 sbc engines and the clearancing can be done BY YOUR OWN HANDS with a standard HAND HELD drill and a few CARBIDE BURRS OR GRIND STONES in that drill in well under two hours if you take your time and total expence even if you need to buy that drill and burrs will be well under $50 total http://www.click-onsource.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=OVAL_1-4_Shank buy a 1/2" burr and a cheap drill http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20776&item=4358782476&rd=1 place you old bearings in the block an place the crank in those bearings after coating them with axle grease slowly rotate the crank and grind minimum of .060 clearance and try NOT to grind more than about .070 any place it touches the block (use a LARGE size paper clip as a gauge if you don,t have feeler gauges) next assemble two connecting rod and pistons, one connecting rod and piston for the left one connecting rod and piston for the right, use old bearings coated with axle grease and no rings on the pistons, assemble them to the crank and grind anyplace the rods touch the block grind minimum of .060 clearance and try NOT to grind more than about .070 any place it touches the block (use a LARGE size paper clip as a gauge if you don,t have feeler gauges)move them to the next journal and repeat untill all 4 journals and 8 connecting rods clear. now assemble all eight rods and pistons without rings and install them in thier correct locations and recheck everthing carefully. next intall the cam and index it corectly with the timeing chain/gears, rotate the engine slowly and look for clearance issues, youll need to use a small base cam if they are major but in most cases if your cams lift and duration is under about 230 at .05 and .500 lift there should be minor if any clearance issues, usually the outside edge of a rod bolt head is the only area needing a touch up. once everything clears, wash all the parts VERY CAREFULLY ,TWICE and re-oil then send out to be ballanced now you might ask why do that! well, first youll know its done correctly, and that a correctly built 383 will have a very significant hp and torque advantage over any similar 327 or 350 just some random info http://www.angelfire.com/wv/fuzzychevy/406450.html http://www.bracketmasters.com/small_block_stroker_383_cu.htm btw you want , to look over #71, # 101, #92 http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos12.html notice the similarities in that all use good heads, and cams match the compression ratios and all are 383 or larger "Pardon me for being stupid Grupmy but what is being grinded upon, the block?" this may help the comon areas are the area near the block oil pan rail where the rod bolts touch and the lower inner cylinder walls and where the cam lobes touch the rod bolts upper shoulder on some types of rods, now you can,t grind on the cam, but you can grind the edge of the rod bolt and you can use a small base circle cam to give greater clearances http://www.karl-ellwein.org/2005engineprojects/388project.htm

Id suggest looking thru these sites, keeping in mind 350hp at the rear wheel requires about 450 flywheel hp http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html http://www.chevyasylum.com/chp/ combo that kicks butt for a reasonable price I get asked all the time for a reasonably priced combo that makes good power for the money spent heres the least expensive combo I can find, that should make excellent power for the cash outlay, its designed for a manual trans car with a 3.73-4.11 rear gear or an auto trans with similar gearing and a 3000rpm stall converter http://motorworksengines.theshoppe.com/ 1026 N. Haven Spokane, WA 99202 1-800-551-1685 383 stroker kit # Balanced!!!!! Chevy 383 Rotating Assembly with Split Seal!!! Includes: Sealed Power Moly Rings, Clevite Tri-Metal Bearings, Sealed, Hypereutectic Coated Power Pistons, Flat Top or Dish, your choice, SCAT 383 Stroker Crank, Sunnen Reconditioned QEK Rods, Pioneer Harmonic Balancer, Pioneer Flex Plate. Balanced using state-of-the-art, computer controlled Hines 500cc. Balances to .02 grams! No Crank or Rod cores required!!! $660 [ TFS-30400001 Trick Flow 23 Degree Aluminum Cylinder Heads for Small Chevy Cylinder Head, 23 Degree, Aluminum, Assembled, 62cc Chamber, 195cc Intake Runner, Chevy, 302/ 327/ 350/ 400,Pa... Today $1,025.95 CAM [http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=crane+114681&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&searchinresults=false&N=0&target=egnsearch.asp&x=30&y=10 $110 oil pan/pump,pickup http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=15120K&line=MWM $90 intake http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=52026&line=MWM $140 CARB http://store.summitracing.com/default.as...mp;x=11&y=9 $223 add a 4.030 bore block and some other parts and your well on your way to building a respectable torque monster, for aproximately $3000plus machine work and your block plus some parts from your current engine, given some tuning and a good exhaust you should get close to 450hp and 445 tq at the flywheel You really should get these books and read them before going any further, it will help a good deal, while only the basic info is presented it still makes for a good knowledge base, and reference. heres some other things to look over http://www.built4speed.com/ http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/71298/index4.html http://www.speedomotive.com/building%20tips.htm http://www.strokerkits.com/build_your_own_383.htm http://www.dumpit.org/grimreaper/reaper_engine.htm http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/77458/ if you decide to build a 383-406-427 youll want to buy an INTERNALLY BALLANCED ROTATING ASSEMBLY http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/smblckrotatingkits02.html and I WOULD STRONGLY SUGGEST (H) style cap screw connecting rods with 7/16" rod bolts BUT you really should get these books FIRST and read them before going any further, it will help a good deal,AND SAVE YOU YEARS AND THOUSANDS OF WASTED DOLLARS, while only the basic info is presented it still makes for a good knowledge base, and referance[/color] IF YOU SMART ENOUGHT TOO DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR FIRST and buy these books, [color:"red"] it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy youll save thousands of dollars and thousands of hours once youve got a good basic understanding of what your trying to do! IF YOUR ON A VERY LIMITED BUDGET START WITH BOOKS 3,4,AND 5, ONLY BUT YOU NEED AT LEAST THOSE BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE [ http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0912656069/ref=pd_sxp_elt/102-1234339-0571324?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1557880298/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books HOW TO BUILD THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVEROLET by LARRY ATHERTON&LARRY SCHREIB . HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD . JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines THE heads and cam that you use will have the most effect on the combos results so spend the time and money there

I don,t know if the regulator is your main problem but its certainly suspect! check the other things the guys mentioned like the power valve and timing, check your float levels, check for vacuum leaks check the fuel filter, etc. but since I don,t know exactly HOW you have the fuel pressure regulator hooked up, but to function CORRECTLY Ill point out a regulator MUST have a non-restricted fuel return line back to the tank designed like that pressure remains dead even and constant at the SET pressure level regulators and fuel systems NOT having a free flow,non-restricted bye-pass line and a good regulator act like you described...pressure fluxuates rapidly and pressure is never constant FUEL PRESSURE REGULATORS DEADHEAD vs BYE-PASS STYLE dead head requlators seldom allow a stable fuel system pressure,you NEED a byepass style system with the regulator mounted close to the carb, you can ignore the nitrous part of this diagram if your not running nitrous but the concept of the higher pressure feed bleeding off excess pressure at the regulator so that the carb sees a constant feed pressure is valid.it may help if you understand the differance in concept of how the regulators work PRESSURE IS THE MEASURE OF RESISTANCE TO FLOW THE DEAD HEAD STYLE REGULATOR works with a spring on a valve that allows the valve to open once the DIFFERANCE IN PRESSURE between the sides of the regulator valves fuel lines has changed think of it as a door that has 7-10psi on the feed side and you want lets assume 5.5 psi at the carb as the fuel pump fills the line it eventually (fractions of a second )reaches the point where theres a voluum of fuel past the valve with enought pressure to allow BOTH the SPRING and the fuel pressure past the valve to close the valve untill the fuel is reduced to the point that the SPRING and the remaining fuel pressure/voluum beyond the valve can not hold the valve closed and the valve is force open and held open untill, that diffearance in pressure is restored. now lets launch the car hard, the pump that had maintained 8-10 psi to the regulator, 5.5 psi past the valve and the spring in the regulator is now fighting the fuel in the line feeding the regulators enertia, and the sudden drop in pressure as the throttle drops full open in the carb,what the pump sees is the full 8-10 psi or MORE the regulator sees a sudden drop off to near zero and it opens wide, if the fuel pumps able too it tends to flood the fuel bowl for a second then the valve slams shut, untill the pressure drops off as you hit each gear the cycle repeats, the result is a surge in pressure and a rapid drop off in voluum then a rapid flood of fuel that rapidly cycles as you go down the track if you had a accurate fuel pressure sensor at the carb youll see a rapidly cycling pressure/flow if some crud gets stuck in the valve it cant close and your carb FLOODS OUT, because it must fully close every few fractions of a second to work correctly the bye-pass regulator functions in a totally differant manor assuming the same set-up but you replace the regulator with a bye-pass style regulator, the bye-pass regulator works by opening a valve too a much lower pressure path for the fuel to return to the tank,the open fuel return line. anytime the pressure exceeds the 5.5 psi,youve set it to, so the fuel line to the carb can only see a max at that 5.5 psi. now the pumps sitting there potenially supplying at 8-10psi just like before, but it can never exceed 5.5 psi because the bye pass regulator bleeds of any excess the pump supplies. but lets look at your launch, if the pressure drops to 6- 7 psi nothing changes at the carb, if it increases to 10 or 12 psi, nothing changes at the carb,if it drops to to 5.5 psi or less the valve to the bye pass line will close maintaining at least what the pumps suppling, but thats seldom a problem, if the sudden changes in pressure and over pressures that happen when you suddenly change the fuel flow required or the (G)loads on the system that potentially screw things up,the bye-pass regulator style regulator isolates the carb and maintains the desired 5.5 psi FAR MORE COBNSISTANTLY now lets assume the spring get weak over time or the adjustment gets set at 4 psi in error, with the bye-pass style youll probably never notice ,if you had a accurate fuel pressure sensor at the carb youll see a rock steady pressure/flow should some crud get stuck in the valve and it cant close NOT MUCH HAPPENDS, because its normally OPEN not closed if you check youll see MOST EFI systems are BYE-PASS regulated designs also due to control and relieability issues but on the dead head the cycle just gets about 20% more erratic and more frequent in the cycles, further weakening the spring over time

MIKE C is correct MARVEL MYSTERY OIL is NOT SNAKE OIL, its simply a VERY HIGH QUALITY DETERGENT oil that does EXACTLY what it says it does,it CLEANS and removes deposites, I normally put a pint into the 10qts of MOBLE ONE SYNTHETIC I use when I change oil and it does seem to keep the film you normally get on the inside of the valve covers at a minimum, and adding a qt to an engine thats mildly gunked up about 100-400 miles before your next oil change makes a very noticable differance in the crud that drains out THE STUFF WORKS

ASSUMING they are hydrolic flat tappet lifters your refering too...it sounds like youve got the lash too tight on most of the lifters, or the lifter seats are gumed up or stuck in the lower possision, with the engine at idle back off the rocker nut untill the lifter starts clicking, LET IT CLICK for a few seconds while the oil pressure raises the pushrod seat to the max then slowly tighten the rocker JUST to the point the clicking stops,then back it of just till you hear it start again, this will free up most stuck lifter seats, then tighten the rocker JUST to the point the clicking stops, then add about 1/4-1/2 turn more.its not uncomon to see new lifters with the pushrod seats slightly stuck in the lower location,or improperly adjusted lifters get stuck, especially if the engines lash clearances were set before starting the engine and cold, oil flow raised the seats, compressing the oil under the seat forces oil up the pushrod to the rocker, if the pushrod seat in the lifter can,t expand when the lifters on the cams base circle it has no oil to force up the pushrods, on some styles of hydrolic lifters, as theres a valve that only opens to flow when the lifters on the cams base circle, and valve spring pressure is minimal btw Id add a qt of marvel mystery oil to your engine it dissolves crud, and frees up sticking lifters very effectively

if your going into the woods,remember your survival gear, never leave the concrete without it. this guy would be alive if he had a bic lighter, matches, a couple of space blankets, a tin cup and some coffee or tea a few candy bars or some trail mix. he might have been cold but would not have been dead. one pocket of stuff, less than a pound, less than 20 bucks, now this guy is just a memory.one TIP is to keep several bic lighters, several candles,a few dozen strike anywhere matches , that were previously dipped in parrafin and a few trioxane tablets in your vest pockets,all will fit in a small water tite plastic box or wide mouth bottle, if you can,t get a fire started in the woods with those. your hopeless , a kit like that weighs little and costs little but gets a fire going even in wet wood quickly. btw,add a whisle and a small compass and several ziploc bags, and have a reasonable knife to the kit btw keep it in your inside vest pocket when temps drop well below 0 degF bic lighters don,t work well unless they have been kept warm by body heat,(thats what the strike anywhere matches are for as a back-up)one trioxane tablet burns for about 8 minutes each,a candle and wood slivers can also be used to get wet wood ignited and a camp fire started Lost Billings hunter dies of hypothermia By MIKE STARK Of The Gazette Staff A Billings man died early Tuesday after getting lost on a hunting trip in Sweet Grass County and spending a cold night outdoors. Gordon Longenecker, 49, went missing around dusk Sunday in rugged country between Big Timber and Reed Point off Bridger Creek Road. He was found unconscious but alive about 11 p.m. Monday in a remote area, but he died of hypothermia just after 5 a.m. Tuesday, according to Sweet Grass County officials. Longenecker and a hunting friend apparently separated in the early evening on Sunday, according to Kerry O'Connell, a spokeswoman with the Sweet Grass County emergency services office. When Longenecker didn't return, the friend called for help. Sweet Grass County search-and-rescue crews launched a ground search that night. Weather problems Pilots from Yellowstone Air Service in Big Timber and Malmstrom Air Force Base in Great Falls attempted to fly over the area but were unable to help because of snow and fog, O'Connell said. "Unfortunately, we had a huge weather problem," O'Connell said. Crews had a difficult time finding Longenecker's tracks, she said. The area is full of drainages, high ridges and timber. "It's easy to get turned around in those drainages," she said. Around 3 p.m. Monday, a Billings team from Absaroka Search Dogs arrived on the scene. The dog picked up the scent, and the team tracked Longenecker for about six miles. They found him on a logging road just after 11 p.m. He was unconscious, and the team tried to keep him warm with blankets and spare clothes. They radioed in their position and waited about 90 minutes for help to arrive because the area is so remote. "I tell you it was a helpless feeling," said Mark Polakoff, who handled the dog on the search. Polakoff, an emergency nurse at St. Vincent Healthcare, said the searchers were worried about nasty weather moving in. "He needed to be somewhere else," Polakoff said. Emergency workers had to use four-wheelers to drive Longenecker about two miles before meeting up with an ambulance. He died just after 5 a.m. Ill-equipped for cold Search-and-rescue officials said it didn't appear that Longenecker was equipped to spend a cold night in the backcountry. They said it's important for hunters and others to be prepared with extra clothing, maps and fire-starting material even if they plan on being away from their vehicle for only a few minutes. Also, they said, anyone who gets lost should remember to stay in one place and wait to be found. Longenecker is survived by a wife and two children. Copyright © The Billings Gazette, a division of Lee Enterprises.

personally I keep, these in the shower stall, large bottle of dawn dishwash liquid orange pumice hand cleaner scotchbrite pads and a stiff brisle brush super 8 degreaser nail polish remover(ACETONE) between the items it gets all the more comon crud loose you get into working on cars

as always its your responsability as the engine assembler to check, but this info will help! http://chevyhiperformance.com/howto/97458/ http://www.2quicknovas.com/vortecheads.html http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB64&Number=732733&Forum=All_Forums&Words=25534431&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=1year&Main=732733&Search=true#Post732733 http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB64&Number=817244&Forum=UBB64&Words=vortecs&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=1&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=816995&Search=true#Post817244 http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us110128.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb120121.htm http://sallee-chevrolet.com/Cylinder_Heads/Vortec.html http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0208_vort/

you can do a search and find several threads on oil,filters ETC. the short version is that both oil and the BETTER brands of oil filters have improved steadly over the years to the point that extending the mileage of changing the oil and filter every 4500-5000 miles vs the often recommended 3000-3500 miles is certainly feasable and safe. keep in mind that the oil flow over the engines clearances does much of the heat transfer/removal to the coolant,and that its the OIL thats protecting most of the moving parts, preventing contact/wear more info http://www.hatcocorporation.com/pages/about_esters.html http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html http://www.waynesgarage.com/docs/oil.htm http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Oiltest.html http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html http://www.batterystuff.com/tutorial_lubrication.html http://www.beslub.com/moly.htm http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/3837/oilprime.html http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm

feds getting into restricting hobbists http://www.abrn.com/abrn/article/ar...l.jsp?id=196423 making it difficult or impossiable for hobbist to work on cars, with out more EPA, licences/red tape/restrictions/expence amoung other things... "Another component of the developing rule is a restriction on the “sale and use†of automotive paint products. Shops will have to meet certain certification criteria giving them the green light to spray paint. The rule will attempt to restrict sales of paint to people who are not certified users. “These are the types of things that I need your feedback on,†said Teal."

"snap on welders are crap. Get a miller or lincoln." read thru these sites http://metals.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aws.org%2Fcgi-bin%2Fmwf%2Fforum_show.pl%3FmarkRead%3D1 http://www.htpweld.com/ http://www.millermotorsports.com/ http://www.welders-direct.com/home.htm SNAPON are good quality HAND TOOLS, BUT WAY OVERPRICED!on most tools and insanely overpriced on some of the more complex tools... I own lots of SNAP-ON ,MAC,CRAFTSMAN,S&K, ETC...yeah the snap-on and MAC are better quality but don,t get crazy,especially when your starting out and your incomes LOW!, buy what you NEED NOT what you want! and don,t get yourself in a long term finacial bind, you can get a servicable tool chest at PLACES LIKE sams club for 1/6th what snap-on charges,THINK BEFORE BUYING THINGS, YOU DON,T NEED TOP QUALITY in SOME things, don,t forget to check the local papers for older mechanics tools , guys retire or die and their wifes often sell $20,000 PLUS tool collections for $5000 read this,(who makes what) http://www.team.net/www/morgan/tech/whotools.html http://www.team.net/www/morgan/tech/morewhotools.html best advice will start with don,t expect ANY quality from HARBOR FRIEGHT OR NORTHERN TOOL on they type of tools that require any PRECISION (jack stands will be fine if you get the 12 ton size)but most other tools are sub standard quality

Id seriuosly doubt that the differance in hp potential between the 210cc or 220 cc heads compared to the 227cc heads ON A TURBO APLICATION would be worth the costs involved in swapping cylinder heads altho theres bound to be at least some potental flow increase, the cam timing and compressor flow map, low restriction exhaust,and low restriction intake with intercooler, are going to be more critical heres a chart FROM THE BOOK,HOW TO BUILD BIG-INCH CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS with some comon cross sectional port sizes (measured at the smallest part of the ports) ...........................sq inches........port cc edelbrock performer rpm ....1.43.............170 vortec......................1.66.............170 tfs195......................1.93.............195 afr 180.....................1.93.............180 afr 195.....................1.98.............195 afr 210.....................2.05.............210 dart pro 200................2.06.............200 dart pro 215................2.14.............215 brodix track 1 .............2.30.............221 dart pro 1 230..............2.40.............230 edelbrock 23 high port .....2.53.............238 edelbrock 18 deg............2.71.............266 tfs 18 deg..................2.80.............250 you may also want to keep in mind that having your ignition timing retarded as the boost pressure goes up is benificial, and the ignition timing, is critical to preventing detonation ,AND in some cases the octane of the fuel, and CAM TIMING needs to change, to make a combo perform correctly.....its also comon for the cooling system to need to be looked into as the heat levels rise under boost http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showfla...rue#Post1090850 before you ask about the toluene http://www.team.net/sol/tech/octane_b.html http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/octanebooster.html http://www.elektro.com/~audi/audi/toluene.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/racefuel8.html http://www.sdsefi.com/techocta.htm you might want to think about that the boost pressure in the intake, manifold, shows the resistance to the airflow as much as anything, not necessarily the voluum of airflow actually filling the cylinders, larger ports may show a lower "BOOST" but perform noticably better, due to greater total air/fuel mix reaching and burning in those cylinders large port heads,that flow well tend to show boost pressures significantly lower in the intake manifold than the same engine with more restrictive heads,provided the cam used has the lift and durration to effectively use the greater flow potential this is only comon sence, pressure or the boost is the measure of the resistance to flow , not the measure of flow voluum,larger heads being much less restrictive result in lower (resistance or boost)that DOES NOT mean that theres less power,infact frequently thers greater power produced due to the more efficient cylinder fill, and the resulting higher percentage of air/fuel mix that burns in the cylinders, provided the cam used has the lift and durration to effectively use the greater flow potential look at it this way, your engines power is a dirrect result of how effectively it fills and burns each cylinders load of compressed fuel/air mix, as the engine rpms go up, the time available to fill those cylinders goes down fast. at 1500 rpm theres about .02 seconds available per intake stroke if the valve was open the full 360 degrees, but since its rarely open for effective flow thru the ports more than 250 degrees thats really only .0139 seconds, spin the engine to 6500rpm and the time drops to only .00323 seconds, larger ports with higher flow rates allow the cylinders that are pressurized to still fill the cylinders, to a greater extent, yet that ability to allow flow into those cylindersalso reduces the back pressure in the intake manifold (boost!)but INCREASES the ability to fill and burn the mix in thoose cylinders, provided the cam used has the lift and durration to effectively use the greater flow potential btw this may help http://www.turbofast.com.au/TFmatch.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/javacalc.html http://www.blowerdriveservice.com/techcharts.php

carb cleaner,wd 40,lighter fluid, hair spray,starter fluid, ETC all pose either a fire hazard, potentially destroy paint, stain aluminum, or leave a residue, the propane torch tip leaves zero residue and and potential fire (unlikely) is instantly extinguished by simply turning OFF the propane flow from the torch

"how can we check for vacuum leaks?" yeah the way I find vacuum leaks on carb intake manifplds isclean and easy with no mess. get a propane torch, http://akamai-lq.bizrate.com/resize?sq=400&uid=328841952&mid=111419 (DONT LIGHT IT) just SLIGHTLY open the valve so its allowing gas to flow at a low voluum,start the engine and let it idle at the lowest speed you can then place the tip of the UNLIT torch at any suspected vacuum leak and listen for the rpms to increase and watch the tach, gas flowing into a vacuum leak will increase engine speed.

I had two long time friends stop by and ask my opinion as to why franks 1967 chevelle just was not running as well as they thought it should be, now these guys are long time hot rodders, but engine builders and tunners they are NOT! both these guys have cars that are more SHOW than GO! I just wish I could get a car to LOOK as good as these guys can! but tuneing and trouble shooting sure escapes thier expertise. anyway I ask whats wrong, and they can,t tell me other than to say the cars missing and not running correctly, they are basically clueless as to the cause and have swapped carbs, distributors,(three times)set the timing,(more times than they can remember)ETC. and can,t seem to nail down the problem. they ask me to take a look..........now the cars got a crate 502 bbc, replacing the 325hp 396bbc that came in the car, and its got headers and a crower solid lifter cam, 850cfm holley and a rpm air gap intake, and what they assure me is a stock 1967 distributor.(dual points cast iron, mechanical tach drive, LOOKS to be a 67-68 corvette dissy to me) first thing I find is that the nicely labled plug wires are arcing to the headers in two places, and the ohms meter reads over three thousand ohms on two so they need replacing, and that the plug gaps vary from .045-.070 while Im checking that I do a compression check and Im not all that impressed with the numbers but they are semi reasonable so I let that slide for now, I do a valve lash check and they are in need of adjustment.(BADLY) seems they have not set the lash since the solid lifter cams install over 18 months ago :smirk:......... the valves set, I check the timing and its jumping all over, seems they forgot to seat the rotor correctly, and the brass tabs bent sevearly and the screws holding it are loose ., pulling the distributor and checking the slack, I find I need to add a new distributor gear, its worn,(looking at the cam gear it seems far less worn) AND shims as its got almost 3/32" vertical play. while I do that I talk them into getting a pointless electronic conversion kit. I install that and the new wires/plugs all gapped at a CONSISTANT .045. next I check the carb,its float levels to high in the rear and too low in the fron,t, that gets adjusted and I test for vacuum leaks......yeah, they had one, gasket gets replaced and intake re-tested, it now passes. next the timming gets set..its now remarkably more consistant :smirk: anyway, a hours trouble shooting and a few parts replaced resulted in some very happy campers.....especially since they had been screwing with it for two LONG WEEKENDs prior to bringing it by with little success! the reason I bring this up, is that durring the whole process , they constantly kept insisting it was a flat cam lobe or a jumped timing chain,or a cracked cylinder hear ETC. NOT ONCE had they dropped back to the basics and set each and EVERY component to its ideal setting and checked that each component was working as designed....no! they were convinced that it needed a new (NAME YOUR FAVORITE PART HERE, THEY WERE SURE IT WAS ON THE LIST) GUYS I see this stuff frequently,if you cars not running correctly find out WHY, don,t just start installing parts randomly and expect things to get better!

THE TRICK with sucessfully useing easy outs correctly is that you need to center the drilled hole (it should be about 2/3-3/4 of the bolt dia.)and drill it ALL the way thru the remaining bolt both centered and CONCENTRIC with the bolt centerline and TO SOAK the bolt threads LIBERALLY over 30 minutes with a GOOD PENETRATING OIL that can reach both ends of the bolt (I strongly advise http://www.freealloil.com/freealloil/freeall.html ) most failures are due to rushing the job, (not soaking a MINIMUM of 30 minutes) (not useing a good corrosion removing penetrating oil) (appling too much torque to the easyout, if it won,t back out easily in most cases you did not use enougth oil or waited long enought) (or and this is most of the time, not drilling the hole both concentric and all the way thru the bolt)

Okay how about tricks for keeping them from turning into the rusted ready to snap pieces of junk, in the first place?" use grade 8 stainless and a coat of ANTISEIZE paste on the threads durringg assembly tends to prevent the problem http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?lang=-1&catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=22449

http://www.freealloil.com/freealloil/freeall.html http://www.crustyquinns.com/tech/easyout.html http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.cfm if you can drill thru the center of the broken bolt with a bit aproximately 2/3 the dia of the broken bolt, untill the bit goes ALL the way thru then soak the $%^ out of it with FREEALL penetrating oil,(this stuffs amazing) this will allow the oil to soak in from both ends of the broken threaded section, let it soak at least 30 minute while you re-apply more spray oil every few minutes, then insert the easy out and gently twist the broken bolt remains out of the threaded hole, BTW heating and cooling the bolt, helps. heat with a propane torch the cooling it with the spray oil helps to lossen its grip on the threads if its really stuck

Pop N Woods correct, you may(probably) want a 30 am circuit , but over 25 feet Id sellect 6-8 ga wire not 10ga, yeah 10ga may work but it may tend to get hot under load also.

its a REAL shame its illegal to shoot thieves you catch ON THE SPOT! now I know it to late,but you may prevent further losses Id install a unbeleiveably loud alarm (several sireins, 4 minimum,of at least 140-150 DB)with door contacts, strobe lights and motion sensors (I already did in my garage), its very hard to steal stuff, un-noticed, if every person in the area is out in the street pissing and bitching about the noise your allarm makes and as mentioned get several dogs, (Ive got 4 now) youll need to walk out and look over your property like a thief might and make the garage damn near impossiable to get into without setting off allarms at a minimum...gates, fences,spot lights,motion sensors,cameras,all can be used, yeah its a TOTAL P.I.T.A. and can get expensive but its NECESSARY if you want to keep your stuff safe

guys I can use your input here, I will soon purchase a lift for my new garage. I HAD purchased a 12,000 lb two post lift, but the company promised a one week delivery and then tryied to scam me and charged my visa card with no lift ever shipped http://www.americanautomotiveequipment.com/pages/831606/index.htm THEY FAILED TO GIVE A REFUND OR SHIP THE LIFT, LUCKLY the VISA CARD REFUNDED the cost after it became clear these guys were scaming me I sure want to avoid that from repeating now Im debating wether I want a two or four post lift, it will be use in my garage for work on my corvettes mostly, and I well aware that the 4 post designs tend to be more stable when swapping transmissions and engines ETC. (what I do mostly)and the 2 post designs tend to be easier to use when doing brakes ETC. both will work, but I want a QUALITY LIFT with great factory support and safety and strength, are the main concerns here so I need input

WHATS YOUR IDEA AS TO THE BEST QUALITY LIFTS WITH THE BEST SUPPORT AVAILABLE http://www.directlift.com http://www.backyardbuddy.com http://www.autolifts.com http://www.stingerlifts.com http://www.doublepark.net http://www.mohawklifts.com http://www.autolifters.com http://www.bendpak.com/ http://www.bendpak.com/product_info.isg?products_id=881 http://www.rotarylift.com/ http://eagleequip.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=LI

congrats! what was your exact engine combo??

these sites should help http://69.39.84.240/ http://www.chevytalk.org/ http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/ http://www.crossedflags.com/nuke/html/ http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Discus/Scripts/discus.cgi http://www.thirdgen.org/