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Posts posted by nullbound
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Cool site. Subscribed..
Check this out.
I can't tell... Does Snake Eyes have his sword in the pic on that page?
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I'm wanting to do the same dash/console swap in my 280, so looking forward to any details.
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You need to be using jack stands.
And wheel chocks... and something besides aluminum foil on your shifter cable...
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:cheers:Cool paint for an awesome ZX
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He's still in business, but he stays really busy. Give him some time (possibly a few days). He'll respond.
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When I purchased the adapters from Ross, they came with the appropriate new nuts and bolts to use in a small plastic bag. I did the conversion on my 240 in 2004.
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you have to take the factory gauges apart, use the black plastic bezel peice and install the autometer gauge inside it. Then worry about putting it in your dash. As for the 5" ones.. guys just silicone them in.
That's what I did for the smaller gauges. It works well. For the 5" ones you can also use velcro.
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Email with phone number sent.
Thanx guys for the reply and info. I'm going to look into these headers.nullbound; would U mind contacting me at zhaba@bresnan.net and leaving me your phone #? I'd like to follow up with a few detailed questions regarding your header install experience.
Thanx, Rick
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The headers MSA sells are the S&S full length headers and you're better of getting them from S&S, if you decide to go that route: http://www.headermania.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=H&Product_Code=5205&Category_Code=STREETROD
I use these headers with my car with the JTR setback position, but had to persuade the floor a little bit with a bfh in order to run the exhaust.
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Count me in, as well.
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Email Ross and he'll send you a document on how to flip the cage assemblies on your axles. It's really simple.
There are also several threads you can search for that cover this topic. Search for "flip cage" and you should get a few.
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You will not get a phone number here for Ross from MM, but realize that Ross is a busy man and it may take him some time to respond. But, he will respond. This has been stated over and over, but he runs this business on the side. He will respond, his parts are top notch, and he's amazing to work with. I've bought several parts from him in the past and will be buying more from him soon for my 280.
If you search, you'll find that most people that are looking for him didn't give him a reasonable amount of time to respond.
This question gets asked a lot. Just be patient. It's worth the wait.
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Pete,
I just sent payment via paypal as we discussed. Thanks for the info and for providing these parts. They look great in the photos:2thumbs:
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This pic shows how the -6 AN fitting attaches to the tank. I do not like how far it comes out due to the pipe threading on the tank....to threaded adapter ....to -6 adapter...to 90 degree fitting. I will have the -6 adapter welded to the tank....not sure what I will do with the other opening...run dual lines or weld it shut.....suggestions?
That's really busy looking. Russell makes pipe thread swivel hose ends... you should be able to replace all of what you have there on the right with one piece. They're pricey, but make for a cleaner look: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product2_10001_10002_748914_-1
As for your other pics, you have some awesome parts and have done some great work!
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Sounds like it could be your turn signal switch. On my 280, only my high-beams work and this is due to a bad connection on my turn signal switch. Take the steering column cover off and break out the test light.
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Amazing tribute to your son, sir. Also, I love the work I'm seeing on the website. Makes me wish you guys had a shop here. Beautiful work!
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It was awesome hanging out with you, Davy. The company and conversation was definitely great:2thumbs: I meant to shake your hand and give another hearty 'nice-to-meet-ya' on the way out, but honestly can't remember if I did or didn't. I apologize if I didn't.
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Awesome guys! I can't wait to see the final numbers!!
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hi Ryan, well it's a weekend car and a drag strip too, i think i'm gonna get the illuminas and 8" wide with 235/60-15. as for the front, i'll go with what you told me, 6'' wide with M/Ts 26x7.5-15.
thanks alot for helping me here,
one more thing, do you think i need to get front struts?? or only the rear one would be enough? if its better for drag racing to get all of them, than i'll do it....knowing that even if i drive the car on public streets, i'm drag racing it
Sounds good! For the fronts, it depends on what cartridges you have. Your ride height looks good right now, so I probably wouldn't mess with them.
If, however, you're not sure about the condition of the front cartridges and want to replace them (while you're at it), tokico hp's are sufficient on the front unless you get a good deal on a complete set of illuminas. There's usually really good deals on complete sets of illuminas on ebay.
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Ryan, your advice is more than helpful and thanks alot for all the info, about changing to coilovers, i'm not sure if i will do that since i'm thinkin about getting a ford 8.8 shortend Diff in the future. for now, i'll stick with the stock suspension or maybe get the Tokicos HP (blue ones) just to improve the ride, i have tokico red springs, i bought the car with those installed. so you think i should go with 7'' wide instead of 8''??
If you're willing to go with Tokico Illuminas (set on 4 or 5) for the rear, you can do the 8" wheel on the rear with those tokico springs and otherwise stock suspension. Going to an 8" wheel without changing the cartridge to an illumina will more-than-likely cause you to scrub your tires on the inner fender lip (even after rolling). If you're going to use Tokico HP blues (or whatever cartridge is currently installed), then go with the 7" wheel. For the 8.8 swap in the future, however, the 8" wheel seems like a better choice for that change. If it were me, I would get the illuminas and 8" wheels now.
about the front, i was thinking more like a 175 or 185/60-15 tire. what do you think? are those too skinny for the street?
That's very skinny and very short for street use... And those sizes are more appropriate for a 4" wheel. Remember that your front brakes handle a higher percentage of your braking. Personally, I wouldn't go smaller than a 205/60-15 for the fronts for street use.
That being said, you've mentioned slicks in this thread... Is the car primarily a street car with occasional runs at the drag strip? If it's a mixed-use car, you might go with a set of drag radials on the rear and use the mickey thompsons I mentioned above on the front. That's what I have for mine, but I only drive mine on the street on weekends. And the problem with this route is it's not the best in rainy weather...
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Can't help you with fitment, BUT I do know that JEGS offers an exact replica of WELD Draglites, for a considerably cheaper price.
They're not exact replicas. They look the same, but Jeg's wheels are cast aluminum, whereas Weld wheels are cold forged aluminum. I'll stick with Weld wheels.
My new wheels!
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
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wow, those look great:2thumbs: