nullbound
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Posts posted by nullbound
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Hehe, been there, done that:-) I'm using the Milodon 5 QT Street/Strip pan. It comes with a windage tray: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MIL%2D31503&N=700+115&autoview=sku
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I'm looking forward to seeing pics when you get them. I've got a set of the msa side skirts and have been wondering what the Kaminari ones look like, too. I love the Kaminari air dam (have one for each Z car..) and want to put sideskirts on my 280. The rear valence they make, however, is hideous.
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I came up with mine during college (1998-ish) while I was considering jobs for after graduation and trying to think of a new screen name for AOL instant messenger. I felt like I was going nowhere in my job search and in coming up with a screen name that wasn't already taken. I wanted "null", but it was taken. Then I was going to use NullPointerException, but thought that was too long and too programmer-geeky. "nullbound" seemed to fit with me getting nowhere... and feeling like I was going nowhere at the time. Funny how that feeling hasn't changed much...
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Nicely done:2thumbs:
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On my 280, I removed the turn signals and mounts (cut the spot welds) and bolted on a kaminari air dam for a 240, along with the 240 turn signals and clear lenses. The front of my 280 now looks like a 240. The euro-style 240 bumper goes on next.
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I've used Pour 'N Restore (bought at Ace Hardware). It's supposed to draw oil out... and it does to some degree, but I don't find it to be worth the price.
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Very nice!! Who did the paint and body work?
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Looks amazing:icon46: I love the look of the kaminari front spoiler on Z. I have one on each of mine (a 240, a 260, and a 280)
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hottt..
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I recently ran into the same problem with my latest 377 build. I forgot to check the block for the starter bolt pattern before putting the engine in the car. It's not at all recommended to drill it out for the inline mounting pattern with the engine in the car. There are too many ways this can go wrong. If you have to drill it, pull the motor.
Otherwise, you can do what I did and spring for a new starter that has a mounting block which allows you to run a starter with a 153 tooth flywheel/flex plate in the staggered bolt pattern. I got this one and it works well for this application:
Kind of hard to describe how it works, but you can see in the pic that it includes a spacer block that has three bolt holes. This fits between the engine block and the starter when using a 153-tooth flex plate. There's a short bolt that bolts the spacer block to your engine block using the staggered bolt hole on the engine block. The other bolts go through the inline holes on your starter. One bolt goes through the starter bolt hole, through the block spacer, and screws into the engine block. The other bolts the starter to this spacer block, which is threaded on that particular hole (this is the hole that's missing on the engine block). I hope that's clear.
I tried to find the spacer block by itself, but was unable to. You might try to contact CSR directly to see if you can buy it, depending on whether or not you're already using a mini starter.
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Looks awesome
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I'm looking forward to this and hoping for violent decepticons.
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OMG...You have a Grade 8+ ARP bolt holding your license plate on? ROFL...BWAHAHAHA...
I support ARP's endurance claims. I've tried and just can't get the car to come close to twisting enough to break those license plate bolts:burnout:
They also hold my radiator, my fan, and my hood support. I may use some of to hold my fog lights, too, when I reinstall them. It's nice to have all the bolts match
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I use new bolt kits from ARP. I buy one "engine bolt" kit, plus the additional kits necessary (head bolts, flexplate bolts, harmonic balancer bolt, starter bolts, carb studs, valve cover studs, etc). They can be on the pricey side, but it's worth it, IMO. They look great, the quality is excellent, and they're advertised as being 12 to 15% stronger than grade 8. You usually end up with some bolts left over that find their way in serving various purposes... like holding on my license plate:)
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Looking good:2thumbs:
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Mike, they are made specifically for the 240-260Z with JTR mounts...(according to Loren at S&S)...He says they won't work with 280Z, not sure why. My current blockhuggers are 1 7/8 pipes and the bends are shallow enough to where I had to relocate the steering and box the frame on the passengers side, so I shouldn't have a problem at all....with the exception of a big 'S' turn to mate up with my side pipe inlets. Will post when I get them on.
Wayne
That's not true, but I don't doubt it's what they told you. If they were made specifically for early Z's with JTR, they would not hang as low on the passenger side, nor would they dump right into the footwells.
They were actually made for 28-5x Chevy's, but happen to fit our Z's. They work with both the JTR and the hooker/scarab kits. I can't confirm if they work with the MSA kit, but MSA sells the same headers (they even drop ship them direct from S&S). Others here have noted how low they hang with JTR(Mikelly and others). From my experience, they actually work better with the hooker/scarab kits.
I seem to recall someone trying to get them to make a set specifically for Datsun Z's with JTR, but they couldn't get S&S to work with them...
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I'm planning on buying one for my 280. I had started the process of buying one through 280Zone when my dryer died, so I had to delay my purchase. I should be sending my money soon, though. Waiting for the Christmas bonus to clear...
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Please bring me a hot brazilian girl between the ages of 18 and 25. No gift wrapping please, but a bow would be nice
I'll have what he's having, bow optional, and a jackpot-winning lottery ticket. I keep asking for the ticket every year, but no one comes through.
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Looks awesome, Mike. I wish mine had come out of paint looking that good.
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Welcome back, Nion. Sorry to hear about your dad. I remember following your progress and am glad to see you'll be getting it back on the road. Good luck!
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Edit: Forgot to answer your other question.
The lug nuts are for mag wheels: 12x1.25 pitch and I think 3/4" shank... I will verify tonight and post back.
Sorry I didn't get back to this sooner. Trying to get the new engine swapped into the car:mrgreen: The lug nuts to use for these wheels are 1.38" shank. That seems long, but it's correct. The 3/4" shank length was for wheels on another car.
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Do/did you have any clearence issues with the 15x6 with the 3.5" of BS?
I was planning on the 15x6 rims with 3.5" of backspacing using 205/65/15 tires, but I was worried the rims would have too much backspacing and would hit the front struts.
Oh yeah, what lugs did you use with you rims? Size, length, etc.? I ask because I'll order them with the rims next week.
I have no clearance issues with the the struts at all. The only issue I've ever had was when I was using a 215/65-15 up front. When I was going in reverse to one side or the other, the passenger side tire would scrape the edge of my kaminari spoiler. That's the only issue I've ever had with the fronts. I remember MikeKz having a similar problem on the same side of his car.
When I switched to 205/60-15's, that was no longer a problem. It's not a problem with my Sportsman Fronts either.
Edit: Forgot to answer your other question.
The lug nuts are for mag wheels: 12x1.25 pitch and I think 3/4" shank... I will verify tonight and post back.
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Happy Birthday! Awesome gift, congrats!
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Nicely done! Love the color and attention to details.
My 500Z is PAINTED
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
Welds wheels would look great on your car and are very moderatly priced.