nullbound
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Posts posted by nullbound
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Emailed. I included my handle in the email.
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The stubs from your 3.36 should bolt right in, assuming your 3.36 is also an r180. I've done the same with a 4.11 r180 pulled from a nissan pickup. Pic 38 in this album: http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2122587659 is what I put in my 280.
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Worked fine for me. Looking good, man.
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$29.95 per side through blackdragonauto.com
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The part number for vb (now black dragon, I believe) for the molding with seal is 59-800 for the left side and 59-801 for the right side. This part number is listed as being for '73 to '78 coupes.
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You don't have to take the door panel off. The rubber is stapled to the chrome strip. You can pry the hole chrome strip with rubber off. I've pulled most of the ones i've dealt with off by hand... but have used a small screwdriver to pry the ones off my '73.
I bought new replacement chrome strips with the rubber already attached from Victoria British.
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I'm interested and ready to use it whenever its available.
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Read the FAQ on this page: http://www.700r4.com/faq/faq.shtml. It lists most of what you need to know to replace your turbo 350 with an overdrive transmission.
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i'm interested in a set.
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I drove mine for a while without the bumpers, but prefer it with:
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Welcome, Katie. That's a great car! Good luck with it!
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Awesome write-up! I would love to see pics whenever they're available, as I've been thinking of doing the same with my '78 280.
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BFG makes 235/60, 245/60 and 255/60's for 15" wheels. All are around $70 per tire. I've bought them from Jeg's. They lasted longer than I thought they would. I later replaced with Mickey Thompsons. I think M/T has ET Street tires in 235's.
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Looks amazing, man.
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I would never defend this car's style in any way, but it's an accord, not a civic.
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Are there any pics of it fully transformed into a robot?
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It's a little tighter with the 26x10 M/T's. It's about 5/8" between the tire and the spring perch with my setup.
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If I'm recalling correctly, I can fit one finger between the tire and the spring perch with my combination. It's pretty close. I'll double-check tonight when I get home.
With coilovers, you could go with more backspacing. I have doubts about it with stock spring perches being where they are... Then again, I'm also thinking about the section width of the tires I'm used to seeing.
Here's how close it was to the 280 perch with the 255/60-15's (top right corner):
It's similar with my 26x10's, just a little shorter.
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Thanks for the complement:)
My rear wheels are 15x8 with 4.5" backspacing. My current tires are 26x10 Mickey Thompson Sportsman Pros. I previously used a 255/60-15, but they rubbed a bit too much. I'm using 280 strut assemblies on the rear with suspension techniques 240 lowering springs and tokico (non-adjustable) cartridges. This raises the rear of the car by about 3/4" to 1 inch, providing adequate clearance for my tire size. I could get away with running a 27" tire on the rear if I was using the tokico adjustables. I have rolled the fender lip. If i hit a large bump or dip in the road, I have heard the tires hit the top part of the rear inner fender lip.
My front wheels are 15x6 with 3.5" backspacing. The tires are 26x7.5 Mickey Thompson Sportsman Fronts.
Paul Corson, whom I mentioned above, uses the same wheel and tire sizes as me, with similar suspension changes (I learned about the 280 strut assemblies with 240 lowering springs deal from him). He does, however, have 15x4 wheels on one of his cars with the same size M/T Sportsman fronts. I think the backspacing on those is 2.5", but I'll have to check with him to verify.
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The hardware will fit fine. You just need to transfer the brake hardline(the one that screws into the wheel cylinder behind the backing plate), as well. You don't have to pull the stub axles or anything like that. The backing plate will work as is on the 280 tubes. I'm using 280 strut assemblies with the 240 brake hardware on my 240. It's an easy swap.
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cool vids! your car looks good. thanks for sharing.
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Nice singing by garrett at the end. "Walk away..."
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I'm using 15x8 on the rear with 4.5" backspacing. My fronts are 15x6 with 3.5" backspacing.
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Both JTR and the hooker/scarab adapter kits use the same mounting location on the block, as well as the same chevy truck style mounts. The JTR kits has setback plates, as you noted with the pics/etc, whereas the hooker/scarab kit mount the engine farther forward than JTR. If you have a '70 or '71 car (might be '72, as well... depends on the transmission crossmember that's used), the hooker/scarab mounts do set the engine back slightly. For '72 and later, the mounts actually set the engine slightly forward. I had the hooker/scarab kit on my '73 and switched to the JTR setback adapters. The number 1 spark plug was about in line with the strut tower.
I won't be using hooker/scarab mounts again, but I have a friend that has them in two of his cars and has had no issue/complaints. I just prefer the setback position. It takes a little more work to install with JTR, but I think the benefits are worth it.
There are pics in my album linked in my signature showing how my 377 looked with the hooker kit. Pic 11 shows how far an HEI will sit from the firewall. Pics 208 and 218 kind of give an idea how far back it goes with JTR.
Spindle-Pin-Puller Loaner program
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension, and Chassis
Posted
I got the puller over the weekend and should be pulling my pins this weekend. I'll post again when the puller is heading back. Thanks greatly for sending it so quickly.