nullbound
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Posts posted by nullbound
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'Mark' on the boards here bought a set of panasport c8 17's for his car at around $2K for the complete set.
Rears are 17x9 with 5.75 back spacing, fronts are 17x8 with 5.25 back spacing. Can't wait to get this set up on the track. Tires are hoosiers 245-40 rear and 225-45 front. MarkHere is where he got his:
Autosport Gallery, Raleigh NC. Ask for Tom Bishop 919-872-2002 -
yeah, they've never had a website... let us know the details of your call. i'm gonna need 2 more of those hoods, at least, within the next 6 months.
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that sucks... but, here is some info that may help if you still want the hood that jc whitney sold. its made by Legendary Cars, Inc:
Legendary Cars Inc.
2065D Bunnell Road
Warrington, PA 18976
(215) 491-1717
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the measurements i gave are what i use for my 240... but i wasn't thinking at the time that the front wheels on my 240 are 15x6... they have been off the car now for more than a year and a half...
however, i used 15x7s all around on a previously owned 280 and it indeed had 4" BS as dalemx and z-ya pointed out. sorry for the misinformation guys... i wasnt thinking clearly.and 4.5" BS is indeed max on a 240 or 280 with stock suspension (i am thinking clearly at least about that part). the rear weld wheels in the pic in my sig are 15x8 with 4.5" BS.
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bump back up... i messed up the links in my original post. it's really worth checking out.
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not sure if this has been posted yet, but, this is from the show topgear in the UK and shows a toyota truck surviving quite a few surprising situations. it's about 15 minutes long and you will enjoy... oh yes.
http://www.bbc.co.uk/topgear/downloads/hilux_broadband.ram
it requires real player or the following http://www.free-codecs.com/download/Real_Alternative.htm to view.
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u should be able to use 3.5" backspacing for the fronts and 4.5" backspacing for the rears to be on the lip. depending on tire size and ride height, you may also have to roll the rear fender lips. good luck with the car and with new job prospects.
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that engine does sound pretty mean. my coworkers liked the commercial, too, hehe.
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i drove a forklift for a company when i was in college... that was hilarious!!
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looking good! it looks pretty mean with the g-nose and flares. vette rear matches nicely with the rest of the mods, too.
come on, mikekz. you used the word 'finished' again... you know they're never finished.
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edit: the car looks great!!
Gotta love silver
agreed, i went with bmw titanium silver for mine:
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looking good! i especially like the choice in wheels:D
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first time i've seen 20's on a first-gen Z... and last time i want to. otherwise, i want to see more photos of the bodywork and interior.
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wow, parting it all out? what's going on with the rest of the body?
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Solution found. I contacted http://www.datsunrestore.com which initially reported that the bulbs could be found at any auto parts store like Autozone, Advace, Pep Boys, etc. However, when I had visited Advance Auto the day before I started this thread, they could not help me. I simply walked out of Advance with the stock replacement bulb info (Sylvania #97).
DatsunRestore then pointed me to http://www.MidnightMoose.com for the bulbs. This helped a lot in my search. I contacted someone at MidnightMoose and got the following info:
Hello,While we don't carry the bulb you need, I think I may be able to help in
your search.
According to Sylvania's technical drawings, a model 67 bulb is exactly the
same as a model 97 bulb, as far as fitness is concerned. (Wattage,
lifespan, etc may differ, but the bulbs will fit.) Doing a Google search
for a model 67 bulb, I was able to find both amber and red colored bulbs
available at other retailers. You may even be able to locate this more
common model locally.
If you want to take a look at the technical drawings I mentioned, simply go
to this site and enter the bulb model (97 and 67) into the Part Number box.
http://www.sylvaniaautocatalog.com/sylvania/Search.asp
When the new page pops up, click on the link under "Fig. No." That will
bring up the technical diagram, which you can see it's exactly the same for
both bulb models.
Hope that helps.
Bill W. - Customer Support
your source for performance lighting accessories!
I was able to search online and found that, as far as fitment is concerned, the side marker lights accept the following bulbs: 67, 97, and 1155. Using this, I found this site: http://www.lightlens.com/coloredbulbs.htm which had the bulbs I wanted. The part numbers I purchased are LB67A and LB67R.
Thanks to DatsunRestore and Bill W. from MidnightMoose.com for their help. I hope this info helps for others wanting to do the same clear lens swap.
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i have both the clear front turn signal lenses, as well as clear side marker light lenses. while buying replacement colored bulbs for the turn signals was easy (1157's in any color can be found in the fast and furious section of any parts store), i have found little to no info on buying colored replacement bulbs for the side marker lights. the part number i found for the sylvania stock replacement is #97. has anyone else bought the clear side marker lights or does anyone know the part numbers for any colored bulbs for the side marker lights?
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there are three bolts holding each one in, if i recall correctly. all you have to do is unbolt them and they come right out. the fronts are easy. it's the the rear shocks that are more of a pain.
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after recent release from paint jail:
still working on rear suspension, companion flanges sent to ross c for z31 cv conversion, engine still on the stand. pic of car when running in my sig.
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Driving is secondary.....wrenching is the most fun.....
that's what i keep telling myself since my car isnt back together yet...
that is pretty crazy that you're already planning again, but we're all interested in wherever your project takes you next. now i have to go see about a second job to save up for when your goodies make the classifieds....
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yes, the mounts are physically higher. that's why we're using the lowering springs.
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cool, thanks anyway. i'll be running 3" all the way, too, and havent thought about the 3.5" ovals.... until now
good luck with your install 8) -
Nullbound' date='
Let me get this straight - Is your friend running the same setup you describe? 280 struts, 240 lowering springs, and 240 hats? [/quote']
yes, exactly that setup, and with tokico 280 strut cartridges.
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how's your front suspension? iron heads or aluminum on the v8? i'm switching over from the hooker setup to the jtr currently, but i never thought my car felt front-end heavy. however, when my car originally got the hooker treatment (with and iron head 350), the front springs were replaced with the stiffer rear springs, and the car got new struts and bushings. also, the '73 (same year as my car) with the hooker kit does place the v8 farther forward than the hooker kit in an earlier 240.
swapping from hooker to jtr will cost a bit, as you will have to modify exhaust, switch to an electrical fuel pump if your running mechanical, plus the cost of the jtr kit and all the other while-i'm-at-it items that tend to pop up. it would be cheaper to turn your hooker engine mounts towards the rear of the car, cut the tranny tunnel bracing out (depending on the tranny you are using), and buy/make a tranny mount like the jtr kit uses.
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i have nothing to offer this thread other than additional drooling. best flares ever...
however, i used 15x7s all around on a previously owned 280 and it indeed had 4" BS as dalemx and z-ya pointed out. sorry for the misinformation guys... i wasnt thinking clearly.
good luck with your install 8)
Can you say "ZVette"?? Especially for Iskone
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
but, thanks for pointing them out anyway!!
