Gritz
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Posts posted by Gritz
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If you're going to build the 7m; i would choose that. Be sure to check if the head and block is square and not warp. Use felpro or a metal head gasket, head studs and enjoy boosting many years with the 7m....From what i read a built 7m is reliable up to 500-550whp..
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Thats pretty low rust, especially for an east coast car. I would complain to much!
Gritz, you are funny, don't swap a 240z because there are not many of them? But it is ok to swap a 260? Lol aren't there less of those?!
lol..Well 240z's are worth more than 260's...
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Thanks for you input ill keep everything in mind, sr is the way im leaning towards, but the power of the 2j is to tempting.
I'm not trying to build a all out race car i just want a Daily Driver that has some good power so i can keep up with the newer gen cars evo, sti, s2, mustangs, m3 etc.
In that case a l28et would be great for those goals(like already said)...A s30 with a strong 300whp will run in the 12's with a good driver..Plus i think the l28 could hold that type of power with a stock rebuild, so you save money going that route. turbo 280z can be had for pennys if you look hard enough, would make a great donar car..
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got y'all i understand the minor upgrades
i was thinking like you'll need standalone
Well thats the way i understood the question, which is the reason i said none..I Guess mike took it the other way.... I do know to get full potential from a nice sized single, standalone is the way to go. But stock boost around 400whp is safe on stock ECU...Some go for more and exceed, but tunning becomes less safe with the stock Ecu as the power increases..
Thats when things like map ECU, SAFC...etc are pretty good tools to use...After that is full standalone for the 550-600whp guys...
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well that would be a "change" to the ecu then
Guess your right then
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Theres guys running 450+whp with stock ecu..with a piggy back of course...however with stock boost most small singles will be ok with supporting mods.. bigger fuel pump, upgrade fuel pressure reg, Wide band..etc So no, you don't have to do any changes to the ECU.
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it runs GREAT!!!!! revs great..doesnt over heat or anything!!!
but when i hit 2500rpms it back fires and pops like crazy.
i meant In neutral i haven't driven the car yet.
Check your coil packs, crank and cam angle sensors. Also a bad tps can cause issues like this.... One more thing what are your spark plugs gapped to? most 1j and 2j guys gap the plugs at .26-.28 only use NGK also.
Make sure the car has all the proper ground.. for example from the engine block to the chassy.
Ps if your car has been running like this for awhile, i would go with a fresh set of plugs, cause NGKs foul out like crazy..
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I think you'll be surprised at the difference a turbo makes to the tone. I respectfully disagree with your last statement. However, I have nothing to prove me right or you wrong at this point. (or vice-versa!)
I agree turbo cars almost always have a differnet tone than the same car N/A
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I just put tokico hp and springs on the front of my car and it's too low...way more than 1 inch..more like 3 inch...the 1jz is that heavy?? I only have about 1.5- 2.0 iches of travel..is that right?
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Man..... I'd be about $20,000+ ahead if I would have just kept the L6 turbo stroker I had in it at the time of that post.
$20,000?????
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I do not remember off hand. If you search back there are photos and probably the measurement was back there somewhere. If I had to guess I would say the 17x9.5 stuck out about 2"-2.5" in the rear.
ok, i guess i'll have to go with the 17X8.5....I was hoping the 17X9 -13 would fit the rear(stock fenders)..oh well only a half of an inch...
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Could these wheel hold 400+hp with good rubber?
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Should be, be patient he should get back to you
I don't have a pic off hand, but I promise you they stick out. About an inch to and inch and a half upfront IIRC.
how about rear
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My goals for now are to make around 350hp of reliable street power. This wont be a dally driver but it will be driven often. The budget is about 10 grand but we all know how that goes. As for welding skills I have some and my best friend is going to school to be a welder so I got that covered. I’m planning on using the beta motorsports 2nd cross member and fabing my own trans crossmember. I’m also planning on a set of bad dog frame rails. Trying to find a motor has been causing some problems. I’m nervous about just ordering a motor online without any idea about its history. Has anyone tried any of these sites?
10g's should be good...I know for sure a 1jzgte swap is about $3,500 or less and thats swapped in and running, if you do the work your self....but what happens is when you want add more, like single set ups, cams..etc. As for finding a good motor..try diftmotion.com those guys are awesome and will help with any questions you have!!
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I don't really agree with a 240z swap, theres not many left...but great project and i will help when you need it...
1. What are your goals?
2. What is your buget?
3. Do you have welding skills?
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The guy on ebay just told me that Strut Assembly are not sold for the 260z of any kind only inserts...is this true? I'll be fine with some kyb's i just what a whole Strut Assembly and not inserts or cartrige....
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So you plan on swaping in a 1jz, 2jz or a 7m?
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These motor caught a bad name because people don't unstand them and don't know the first thing about them..so just like anything people jump on the "Rotaries suck" bandwagon..My brother owns a 88 turbo II and have be pushing around 300hp for years..
I love Rotaries!!!
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http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=144159&page=11
scroll to the bottom of the page thats my motor and its lowered about 2 or 3" and i kinda want to use my efi motor but i want to see how it would run like this first
Cool, never seen anything like that before....Maybe a local shop near by can fab you up a intake manifold..
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I would like to see some pics...
300hp in a s30 is high 11's low 12's....have you upgraded any thing else on the car, brakes, shocks..etc?
I agree if you could find a way to be Fuel injected with a tunable ECU that would be the ticket..
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$1000? thats crazy..you can find a entire mkIII for $1000...look a little harder try craigslist...
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I sell 'em. Check the web site below.
Thanks!!! Any others?
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I feel like a bone head for asking this question..Is there any where i can buy a complete strut that bolts in and not inserts or cartridge? I'm aware of the Tokico Hp but are there any others...kyb, gabriel..etc.. last question i only want to buy 2 struts and 2 springs for the front..most place you have to buy a set of 4 performance springs. I'm working on the front of the car now and the rear later, cause money is tite....help a brother out.
However, I have nothing to prove me right or you wrong at this point. (or vice-versa!)
The great debate: 1jzgte or 7mgte?!
in Toyota L6 Forum
Posted
Not trying to talk you out of what you are doing....but have you ever driven a sub 2600lbs car with 600whp+?? it will be useless on the street...unless of cousre you are planing on setting the car up for that kind of power which will prolly cost double the engine build...just something to think about..most s30's with a good driver will run low to mid 12's on a strong 300whp..