V8ZRACER260Z

Why not trim down the Genesis panel to taking out the bottom row of switches to shorten the height and triming of the thrid guage on the right to narrow the width. I think this would save you from drilling all the holes and make it small enought to fit the Z. A few simple rods to hold it in place.

Oh yeah she is a keeper! And the best part is she loves the car as much as I do.

Got to run it out today and whew! The car might have more in it than me. I would love to take it to a track to stretch it's legs a bit more. Loving it more each day. Oh yeah I have an awesome wife too!

One of the best stock Z's I've driven. It's smooth and docile till you put the right foot down and then it starts pulling very linear. I opted for the Automatic with the paddle shifters as I have a stick shift in the 260Z. As for handling WOW! It sticks like glue with the traction control on, it is even very controled in the rain. Turn it off and plenty of throttle oversteer. I'll give props to Nissan for listening to the 350Z shortfalls and correcting them. So in short great car!

Well guys I finally have a Z to drive everyday! It's a 2009 370Z magnetic black touring model. My wife got it for me as an early 10th Anniversary gift and she could not have picked a better one. Great car and can't wait for some dry weather to go out and enjoy it.

I did the same thing on purpose. Go get the aviation style clamps metal with a rubber insert aka pipe clamp in the size you need approx 7/8" or so. I drilled and tapped the frame rail as it was thicker and better for holding threads. I then used stainless button head allen fastenters to attach the clamps. An alternitive meathod if you don't have a tap is to drill thru the apron and use a bolt and nut to hold the clamp. Either will look good and not very expensive. Type of clamps needed type of fastners used Both should be availible locally at your fastner store for less than $20.00 Hope this helps and best of all it will look alot better

Great video!

I would not try to rebuild them. I would try to locate a good used steering shaft to replace it with.

Well you have a few questions to be answered. As for the roll bar and street use the most important thaing is that you head (helmetless) can't come in contact with the roll bar while seatbelted. Adjust you seat and always pad any area close to your head as an added saftey precaution. If needed redo your roll bar to prevent contact. The tool box area can be reinforced by adding a bar across behind the seats or getting a donor tool box section from a car beyond repair and restoring the original tool box. As for the frame rails the stock rails do not need to be reinforced with a SBC of streetable HP. As long as they are solid they will do fine and with the bad dog subframe should be more than substantial for street use. On the last question poly bushings are much more street friendly. Heim joints will transmit alot of road feel and noise thru the chassis mre than you would want for frequent use. The resonse if any you would gain by using them would be minimal for a street car. Heim joint are primarily degigned for track only cars where noise and vibration ar part of the game and the need for presise adjustments paramount to consistant lap times. On the track the few tenths you pick up from them are big but on the street its anoying at best. Hope this helps if you have any other questions just ask. Rick

Judging front the yellow and blue driving suit I'd say that is the driver in the second photo.

Thanks I will! Again great car!

Very very nice! Is this a kit or one off custom built? If it is a kit who makes it? I forwarded the post to a friend of mine with a Z06 to see if he is interested. Rick

Great job and that's coming from a paint & body guy! Nice choice of color and from the pictures looks like a great job laying down the paint. I too love the period lip and decklid spoilers. Waiting to see the car finished!! Rick

The project is looking good! I would reccomend using a gas welder as it provides a shielding gas necesary in the welding process to keep contaminants out of the welds which could affect the welds strength. You could use a flux core welder which provides some shielding but not as good as an argon shield gas. A good test is to try your welder on one spot weld then inspect it for any bubbles in the weld indicators of contamination. A good weld should lay flat and be smooth with no imperfections. This is assuming you prepared the welding area by grinding away any paint and use a good quality weld thru primer (3m makes one). The weld thru primer may cause some popping sounds while welding but this should not affect the welds. Also skip your welding around on the panel allowing time between welds for the metal to cool.This is to help eliminate warping from generating too much heat in one area. As for panel bond adhesive this would be usefull in the wheel well area but I would reccomend welding the sail panel area by the window and the rocker area at the bottom front of the panel.I would also sleeve these areas by making a 2" wide strip that mimics the panel being replaced having 1" under each side of the weld. Hope this helps you out if you need further assistance just ask. Rick

Great work! keep us updated with pics! Nice to see someone else taking the different route to achieve better handling and bring the suspension more current with late model tech.