subtle_driver

$150.00 throw-away (sr20de swap rescued) ka24de with $30 ebay manifold, $35 used 35mm wastegate and junkyard $80 holset turbo, Throw in $6 each Rx7 injectors with a $9 ford probe fuel rail (honda inlet hose), $20 stock turbo Neon intercooler, and stock ECU with home made chipped daughter-board ($20) Makes more power and a lot more torque than your average LS1 to the wheels. I'm not a hater, just saying that if you think you have yo have a lot of money to be fast, you are wrong! It just takes a lot of time and effort and knowledge and extremely well laid plans to make a fast car with less money. Don't throw away money on things that don't work effectively. If i had more money to spend.... Here is the Dyno sheet for all the lazy people to see! I only picked a couple of pulls, we made maybe 7 or 8 pulls and adjusted the fuel pressure, boost controller and timing map. I installed a Blitz dual solenoid controller for that day because I wanted to have a safety margin, on the dyno. You can see the dropping of power on the graph when the safety feature kicked in to lower the boost pressure. I was planning to do a 25 psi and up pull, like we did countless hundreds of times on the track and street, but the hp wouldn't have gone up much more with the stock 2nd gen cams, and I was worried about the stock rods handling much more than 400 foot lbs of torque. When i saw it made over 300hp on the 1st pull, i was like, "Naaah, I'm not gonna blow it up, I want to make the 40 minute drive home." lol. here are the videos, sorry about the video flip microphone getting totally annihilated by the turbo intake sound.

Word of mouth, A Marine was getting an sr20det swap done on his 98 240sx. He was gonna toss his ka. I told him i would buy it! He got the short end of the stick, I'm making almost 3x more than his sr20det.

Thanks! BTW, I haven't put it up for sale officially! I just hinted at it. I had lots of offers, but I am more-or-less, taking "applications" rather than selling it to just anyone. It is a special car, needs some body work, roll-cage and a little bit of money invested in suspension to make it a unstoppable killer on the street or track. Right now it is scary fast, and has been reliable as well!

Just got back from the Dyno. I Guessed 250hp and I wanted 300hp after the tuning for the stock-longblock 150k+ miles, ka24de-turbo powered 1972 Datsun 240z. The Final results were. 353 HP and 441 Ft. Lbs. at the rear wheels! Final Crank HP with 15% drivetrain loss calculated: 415 HP, 519 Ft. Lbs. www.E-mance.com tuning is simply amazing! I also am thanking all the memebers of the old Team Midnight Boba that helped with this! Thank you! I got the dyno sheet posted here: http://www.sdclubracing.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=2&func=view&catid=19&id=458 I'll get some videos up and post more info when i get a chance! BACK TO THE DAILY GRIND! Special thanks to www.Mckinneymotorsports.com for your input during the build! And Jason from www.E-mance.com for tuning this car! and Jamie from www.Dynomitetuning.com for letting us use his dyno!

I know, I called and they won't have it for about 2 weeks, and even if I payed in full it "might be done in 2 weeks or so, not sure." I need one now.

I'm looking for a transmission adapter that fits the infiniti q45, VH45DE, to the Z32 5-speed. Thank you! please email: subtle_driver@yahoo.com or txt/call 760-315-2372 Justin

Versus Nova again! Versus Turbo Solstice/Sky San Diego Club Racing Series

Here are some videos of me drag racing some cars in the www.SDclubracing.com season 2 event. Up against a 1970 Nova with 383 stroker. I have 400 treadwear 20 year-old, dry rotted, bfg "truck" street tires. Right click to watch in youtube and switch to high def: This one is against an 850hp KA-T 1998 nissan 240sx Funny as heck! Super close race:

I took the car out for a spin, here are some videos: Car is for sale to the right person only!

I'm needing the 5-speed from a z32 n/a or turbo. I also might need the cross-member and misc parts/sensors that go along with it. I want one that is in good shape, not one that is missing teeth on the gears or has bad syncros or broken forks worn out bearings, please. I can't afford to pay $500 for one. Give me your offers please! Thanks! Subtle_driver@yahoo.comb or Call me and leave a message or text if i don't answer (that means my boss is right there) 760.315.2372 ~~ Justin

you cant make a set for me eh? I'm planning on using a 240sx trans to replace my 280zx box.

Thanks again for the input guys. YES, i break them with my l24! that is why i am concerned about hp. btw, the rally cross does the least to the mounts as there is very little traction. in high traction combined with instant torque situations is when the mounts get the most abuse. I am not a fan of hard mounting anything unless it is a last resort. The vibrations will cause bolts inside/around the engine and the turbo setup to come loose. I also daily drive the car, it would eventually cause premature fatigue of some of the metals and castings. BTW, please don't show your engine/trans mounts unless you are willing to make me a set:). those look very functional and they will keep the engine from moving forward under heavy breaking. But seriously... ya, i found those pictures when i was searching, but i was hoping there was something easier...

Thanks for the ideas, but I'm looking to replace the rubber ones with urathane as I'm planning to go with a 400 or so hp setup. I do alot of Autocross and Rally racing and drag racing; as well as a combined 45 minute mountain run (both ways) on my way to work every day. I brake all brands of mounts, nissan/and aftermarket. So I'm giving up and wanting to use Urathane. I have a mostly stock l-24 that puts down 140 rwhp on the dyno. enought to eventually cause the engine to hit the nismo strut brace when the mount breaks. Does anyone have pictures of a "almost bolt-in" mount that does not require too much fabrication. i have a mount in hand and im gonna go to the parts store and see what chevy urathane mounts will work from autozone. thanks for the tips! As long as we are on the subject. I'm also looking for a mount for the transmission....

Hi, I am looking for a company that makes a bolt on urathane engine mount for my l24 in my 1973 240z. I keep breaking the stock style ones in half. I went through 3 sets, need something beefy. Or if nobody makes one, what is the easiest and most readily available methood of doing this? I hear of using transmission mounts from Ford or Chevy? Please list part numbers and details. Thank you!

ok, thanks! I guess not then!

I have a set of stock 260z rods? I believe they are the same as 73 240z rods. they just have some scratches, i can remove them from the pistons. I can sell them for $80 plus shipping.

I Don't recommend the Eiboch springs, I daily and autocross/rallycross my 240z. they feel too loose then get way too stiff under load, the result is a floaty and non-linear, non-predictable feel. I used Eiboch, suspension techniques and Tokico springs, I prefer tokico hands down for street and track. The Tokico springs do not bind on my car, I have urathane bump stops. They do have coils that are compressed that don't seem to do anything, but they do.... when the suspension drops they decompress and prevent the spring from floating. for street and occasional use with an l-series engine in a 240z i recomend the tokico blues and springs with urethane bump stops. they are perfectly matched for each other. I used this setup for 7 years and put 100k miles on them and raced with them. just a side note. Do not use KYB GR-2 struts with any of the lowering springs, they are stock replacements! they will bounce like a civic with $20 ebay coilovers.

what oil pan are you planning on using?

ok, let me know when you decide! thanks!

definitely interested in that pan. check your pm.

well to set the record strait, my 240z gets 23mpg average and i race it almost every weekend. my 240sx makes 350hp and gets 27mpg highway. my friend's 240sx i helped build gets 25mpg highway and makes 720hp at the wheels. ya, i want the best of both worlds! and proper tuning will get both! thanks for everyone's input! i appriciate it

i have the origonal flat tops in my closet. so i can use those needles in the round tops? is there more info on this? anyways, i just bought a set of 40mm tripple webers. i need a heat shield and some velocity stacks and air filters. i can't wait to learn and tinker with them. thanks for the advice, I think i will do both, first try that flat top needle swap? that tony d was talking about. then install the webers, then swap to itb efi, then turbo with an l28. I have 2 l28 blocks at my house. i'm prolly gonna sell one of the blocks and the head to make room for rebuilding my jeep engine. so ya, thanks alot!!! now im gonna go do some research on these webers!

thanks man!