subtle_driver

why not the whole car? hehe.

Yes i agree, The KA makes more useable hp and tq, than the stock n/a L-series from my expiriance. But I still like the L-series much better as it belongs there and sounds and feels better! But the ka makes the most power for the money in our special case. 4 gerbils, cheap, with x-flow head, 4 valves per cylinder, DOHC, and 2.4liters with strong and cheap aftermarket support takes the win for the buget racing season. Plus we added a turbo and the motor likes it.

agreed! we made it handle better by cutting coils up front to lower it back down, level, and installed a rear 260z sway bar, and added 2degrees of negitave camber up front to get it back into busness. otherwise if we handn't it handled like crap. gotta make changes to accomidate the changes.

Accually, the opposite. we used a Act clutch, but it failed miserably. now we are using an XTD stage-4. holds up perfect!

Your right on the money for the most part! Our ka was $150 complete, because the guy we bought it from swapped in an sr into his s14. But sadly we spent thousands less and made almost double the hp with his old motor. Yes, the inline six sounds alot better! thats one reason i still have mine installed, but ours doesn;t sound bad with the custom exhaust i made with titan and tundra resinators and a ford truck tip. sounds subaru'ish with the e85 tune. But i'll say this much, its way easier to work with in the s30, than the s13 or s14. so much room to do whatever you want. i love it. but i'm not loving it more than my 8k rpm l24 with strait through exhaust on my personal 240z. IMHO, the Ka is a stronger platform and has a much better designed valvetrain than the sr20. The KA24de from the 240sx, is made in japan, revs to 7,000rpm, has a cradle, a cast iron bottom end with forged crank and same valvetrain as the RB26. basicly it looks like an rb with 2 cylinders cut off. I don't exactly know what power we are making as we didn't dyno it yet. I'm guessing based on the injector duty cycle numbers, mafs being maxxed out early, and burning up a clutch that was supposed to hold 300-something hp after one hard pull, I'd say ballpark at least 275hp at low boost, and at the most 400hp at 25psi. We are hoping its not over 400hp, cause that is when the stock ka-rods start to bend and the tranny gives up. BTW, contrary to popular belief, the stock configuration of the 240z already has more weight in the back than the front. something like 49front:51rear. installing the midship 4-banger accually hurt us more than helped with wieght distribution. we had to cut the coils up front and add a rear sway bar and 2.5 degrees of negitive camber in front to get back what was lost. I cant imagine what a lighter engine than a ka would do. BTW, we decided to sell the car after the event is over! A great chance to own a winning race car with alot of history, potential for future upgrades/restoration and its street legal and registered!

thanks for the info man! I appriciate it! Not to burst your bubble, but I have an s13 and used Godspeed products. I will never use them or let anyone use their control arms or sway bars or anything that if broken would possibly allow loss of control. I snapped one of their sway bars in half when driving to work. I went to suspension techniques and never broke one. Think about the name, Godspeed, that means you will meet your maker quickly! lol Just a bit of info my friend. just be careful, and safe! Nothin against you or your car, just an fyi.

interesting way of corner balancing!!! At first glance it looked like you were teeter tottering the car, but then i noticed the scale. I was wondering... do you sit in the car when corner balancing to get it perfect?

I decided to take the Boba car to Cruizin Grand in Escondido, just for fun and to get some exposure for our humble sponsors. Not the most up to date link but here is some info: http://www.hotrodscustomstuff.com/cruisingrand.html This goes on every Friday at 6pm during the daylight savings summer months. Its mostly for muscle cars and pre 74 classic cars. Lots of people; we handed out alot of promotional flyers for SDGC, and informed alot of people for the SD Grand Challenge event. Most everybody was very excited about the car and the event. Alot of people would say, "dude, you need a blow off valve and... (mentioned alot of things we "need") lots of why did you do it like that, when you could do it this way?" ... untill we said it was built for a $1000 racing category. then they say, "Oooooooh.... thats why you did that!... awsome!" Here are some pics, Enjoy: Ya, that is me wearing shorts for the first time in 10 years.:gay: That is Kaustav giving the thumbs up sign cause' he is so cool Even these old car junkies thought it was cool Waiting for some pics from last weekend's drag race... We got 1st again8-) BTW, we are racing this Sunday 2nd of Aug 2009 from 12:30 till about 4ish at qualcomm stadium if you want to join us.

Those are Bondo flairs! hahaha! they were ghetto flared with a hammer to clear some massive tires back in the day before we got the car. then we cleaned it up a little with fiberglass resin stuff. Anyone want to buy this after we are done with the season?

I thought i would let you know, the camber trick worked so far. moved the inner lca hole out 1/2" and welded the other hole shut. after adjusting the toe, we had definitly had well over 1/2" of thread left on the inner tie rods. i dont remember exactly. With the car lowered about 1.5" we got 2 degrees of negitive camber.

Of course it would be bad to run any car without fuel management. We are running a home made daughter board with chips. The fuel and timing maps are changed for the onset of turbo and the different fuel injectors and e85. Here are some shots of the car at Qualcomm in SD. The first Autocross of the racing season. Thanks to Kaustav. I'll get some of the drag racing pics up soon. So far we are in the lead, but its a close race between alot of good drivers and cars.

I kept the body harness intact and kept the fusible link from the starter hot wire for that purpose, and used the stock oil and coolant sending wires. the ka24de harness we ran separate: a power, ground, and accy, setup with missile switches and the starter we used a cheap switch from autozone wired separate. then we wired the alternator to the battery separate with a fuse, and a stand alone fuel pump circuit. We didn't use the stock ignition key circuit, spark or the alternator/charging circuit. This is not ideal for a street car, but it makes it very simple to have separate systems instead of trying to intigrate and splice into the stock harness. makes it easy to troubleshoot and fix. keep in mind we wanted simple and cheap for this event as to stay within the buget rules.

how much would the tie rods cost? i can't buy anything else. i have to stick with my stock tie rods, as per the rules. thanks!

I read that link. thanks. I still am in the dark as to how far i can extend the control arms safely. I don't have an alignment rack, so i want to make sure i do it right the first time! if anyone has done this extending with stock setup, and was still safe with the threads can you please let me know how much you extended? thanks!

I bet you have a boost leak.

I was considering lengthening, or relocating the front control arms on my buget race car project for grassroots motorsports magazine to increase camber. Here is a link to the project car: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=149772 But I was thinking, will I run out of threads on the steering linkages when the toe is corrected? What is the max I can get away with and have a margine of safety? Keep in mind i have almost nothing lefit in my alloted budget! heh heh. I was thinking of getting a total of at least 2 degrees more than what i have now. How much do i need to add to the front control arms or move them, to gain this camber change? Right now i have about 1/2 to 1 degree of negitive camber. The car is lowered 1 inch or so, and I slotted the strut towers, but the stock, un-modified, strut mounts are hitting the edges. I am doing this in combination with shaving the upper strut mounts, i hear this will increase the amount of slotting i can do on the strut towers. What is the best way to accomplish this? what type of steel should i use? does anyone have pictures? thank you!

I have been running several 300-350hp ka-t setups on high mileage engines with stock internals for 3 years without a single engine related failure! get it tuned, properly set up, keep it cool and lubed, and it will thank you! i also have seen several dozen stock SR's blow due to making stupid mistakes. just depends on what you're asking of the engine i suppose. my s13 got rear ended 2 times at a stop sign. i saw the video, reminds me of the good ole days when the industrial parks were not inhabited and i would go through 3-4 sets of cheap tires every year....

its already up on the front page. we are running short ram setup for drag. less turbulance.. in this case... we are still planning on going to fusion in kerney mesa, off clearamont mesa blvd. accross from cheetas.

A pic of the first setup with a on center t4 from a diesel truck, before the bolts came loose on the compressor housing and ya... that was an epic fail.

I brought this car to Race legal drag event last night inSan Diego. Did anyone see it? I saw some nice 240z's out there! a orange one with l28et and a blue one with l28 non turbo.

in san diego, shaft masters, you can shorten for $85. thats what i did with my buget swap. i also shortened one myself. it worked but i didn't want to try it on the freeway.

3PK890 is the correct fitting belt for this setup! i tried 3 belts till i got this one!

That is some Hot Damn tea! haha! Ya, i think your right! I'll keep an eye on the nos! Thanks! I can get some single cam brakets 4 u if you make it worth my while! they just bolt on. Or,,,why don't you Just grind a little off the thermostat housing so it doesn't rub. and leave it at that! easy and it works!

Check this out bro, there is a picture with some info on how to do the non-powersteering modification: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=149772 I was at Mckinney motorsports recently, and they have a dual cam ka sitting in a s30 chassis. looks clean and fits well! sits very simular to my setup and even clears the EGR tube for those in california that want to swap in a torque monster, higher revving dual cam 4 banger and stay 100% smog legal!

To think, i was going to have two of them! heh heh! you wouldn't believe how many people mistake it for the real thing! at least 15 people have come out and asked me about the nos and thought it was real! I tell them to follow the "nos purge line", then they see it leading to the radiator and laugh! here is the picture of the single cam ka thermostat housing and single cam alternator braket set for AK-Z!